Laurentius

I'd use "oval gratin pan". Is this use oven-only? You might take a flier and also search "oval copper pan". $100 might be attainable on eBay or Etsy for resale.

Since most of your "fancy" cooking happens elsewhere, you might consider keeping and using a converter plate for this pot (and other beloved incompatibles). While they have an undeservedly bad reputation, they work. In fact, if pan evenness is desired, converters can improve upon induction's inherent unevenness. Another suggestion is to sub a strainer insert for draining. This greatly widens your pan choices by freeing you from that cover. And inserts tend to be versatile. Maybe best of all, inserts can often be found in the thrift outlets for very little money.

Nalley, Farman,even Nathan's. Gedney has supplied McDonald's for >50 years.

I've also successfully deep-fried small batches in a Le Creuset fondue pot. The chief disadvantage, compared with the asparagus set, is the lack of a basket and the unlikelihodd of a perfectly sized spider. Also saves on oil.

I forgot to mention that my Demeyere Resto asparagus steamer (and basket) make a good deep fryer. Same idea, maybe even a little skinnier.

Ah, the volume of oil conundrum... Dave the Cook is correct that the trade-off isn't all bad--a small volume comes up pretty fast. I reach for a generic Fry Baby when I want to do a small batch of something for two. It works acceptably well for most things that will fit in the small basket--a few lumpia or a couple Scotch Eggs. IMO, it helps to preheat longer than it takes to get to the bubble point. I filter the oil, and I actually prefer my oil a bit saponified. The small volume works for me adding a skosh when I need it, and it lasts awhile without much waste. Also, maybe Elon can afford 5 gallons of duck fat, but when I want a treat, a pint of duck in the Baby does wonders. If I'm cooking for a crowd (or my cardiologist), I use an 8Q pressure cooker that is approved for pressure frying, i.e., broasting. The method conserves oil--volume is less than what you'd use in an open pot. And I like the results better.

I think your handles fall under the general heading of "rubber overlay". There are different rubber compounds used, with different recommendations made for cleaning. For example, one compound, Santoprene, is actually degraded by alcohol. I once had a Kershaw overmolded knife, which got and stayed annoyingly sticky, no matter what. Certain VW dashboards suffer the same fate. Good luck.

Even if you had a $$ IR gun with adjustable emissivity, if you want good data, contact and immersion probes are mobettahs.

I believe Berondi has both sizes. https://berondi.com/demeyere-cookware/demeyere-pans/demeyere-teppanyaki-plancha.html The Coer pitting issue doesn't bother you? Comparing downward responsiveness is somewhat fraught. If you plot the 10C temperature drops in, say 1L liquid volume, the bimetal should win by a noticeable margin. If it's s stockpot in an icebath, even more.

Just in case you're still shopping... Falk asked me to evaluate Coer when it first came out. I was comped the skillet you pictured above. It's been in service for a couple years now. This triply is marginally thinner than the "regular" bimetal, by virtue of Falk having to make room within its existing tooling to accommodate three layers instead of two--the copper got thinned. So, consequently, Coer is not quite as even and substantially less downwardly responsive that the bimetal lines. It's also practically as heavy. What I did not appreciate until after I reviewed Coer is that the exteriors, which allow the line to "work" on induction, are somewhat prone to pitting and discoloration. It's not a terrible problem, but a neat freak who wants to hang the pans might be disappointed. I would certainly NOT run them through a DW. It's still very good cookware, but I think you'll find Coer on induction to be noticeably less even than your bimetal on gas. I'd also encourage you to pick the Demeyere plancha/teppanyaki over any other.

I'm interested in what deephaven ended up with. If I'd gone that deep into copper, I'dve kept that and scared up a Panasonic Met-All dual frequency 240V induction unit.

I have not, but I suggest you call Thermoworks to inquire. They are extremely creative and helpful.

2017. That was when Rao's Specialy Foods was sold to Sovos Brands. Sovos greatly expanded production and quality suffered. If you're interested, there's a Robb Report of how Sovos industrialized Rao's before flipping it to Campbell's. There are sad parallels here with other acquisitions and mergers. Eddie Bauer, Abercrombie & Fitch, Williams-Sonoma, big brew, etc., etc. Before it's over, I'm sure there'll be a Rao's credit card.

IMO, ever since Rao's was sold, its products haven't been worth paying a premium for. I think they subsist now on brand loyalty, not excellence.

Celebrity chefs flogging products is nothing new. Paul Bocuse was a paid "Ambassador" for Zwilling/Demeyere. Tom Keller is famously omniamorous about licensing his name.

All three and probably more. The idea that Briquettes, coal or even lump charcoal are pure carbon is hokum.

Well, moisture content varies depending where the bricks are made, what of, and how they're packaged, handled and stored after leaving the retort. I've read that the moisture can range as widely a 5-35%. They all feel dry to the touch. Unless you deploy a moisture meter, you're not going to know. It's the same with firewood. The rule of thumb is "seasoned" wood is 12% water or below.

Yes, very. As someone who's heated and cooked with wood for many years, I have an intimate relationship with creosote. The #1 rule is: don't burn green, i.e., undry, wood. It may burn, but so much heat is lost driving out the moisture, it's mostly not worth it. And the incomplete combustion in the presence of that moisture makes for dangerous accumulation of creosote in your flue that is not easy to remove. Briquettes and wood have a range of moisture content, and so, with a fed fire, there is some ongoing creosote and soot ormation. Last year's Briquettes, like last year's bagged concrete, have more moisture than fresh. Have you perchance seen the Masterclass episodes on classic American BBQ? One legendary place avoids creosote by stoking their pits with only live wood coals, shoveled in at the right time.

Read the article I cited. White smoke from briquettes indicates the higher initial moisture content at ignition. It's not all steam, but the white smoke is caused by moisture in the fuel cooking off, i.e., steaming away. "Thick white smoke is dirty smoke and is caused by moisture evaporating from the surface of the charcoal or wood." https://beardedbutchers.com/blogs/news/dirty-smoke-what-is-it-and-how-to-avoid-it

Yes. And the white smoke shortly after lighting is largely steam.

Here's an interesting article on how briquettes are made: http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Charcoal-Briquette.html

What does a "lot" mean here? It may be true that lump leaves less ash than briquettel, but burn 5kg of briquettes, and you get comparatively very little weight of ash left behind. I think NM may be confused by the fluffy consistency of undisturbed briquette ash.

Given the fact that briquettes burn from the outside inward, this makes very little sense. Anything that was in the mix is still there, at least until the combustion is complete.

OK, I just don't want coal and the heavy metals therein under my food when open grilling and BBQ. I'm happy using only hardwoods and lump charcoal. I think most people have no idea there's up to 40% coal in Kingsford. IMO, briquettes are sold mostly as a more convenient choice over more natural fuels.

Here you go. I enjoy that they can be simple like this one or fancy/bespoke.