Laurentius

I've had a series of Breville toaster ovens. I like most functions, except it isn't a particularly good toaster, and I think the air fryer is underpowered (just a scosh more air movement than the convection setting), and the AF rack usually requires rotating. Overall, I'm happy to have such a Jack-of-All-Trades appliance, because it obviates the need for multiple larger and single-use ones. Enjoy the Breville!

That's too bad it's not in someone's service. Is it thicker than the Falk? Dehillerin-marked Mauviel brings enough $ on resale to get you another Falk if you prefer it.

Hard to guess at the underlying cause of this mishap. Popcorn should pop at about 180C/356F, well below the melting point of tin (232C/449.5F). With oil in the pan, you should've had about a 100F cushion, and with the popcorn load giving off steam, even more. See, https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/explore-the-pop-in-popcorn/ My suspicion is setting too high a heat (the rule of thumb is copper should be set 40% lower) and leaving the pan unattended. Hopefully you had the Dehillerin pan retinned...

Similar, yes, yet different, too. IME, tin linings do "season" in a way, but not to the extent carbon steel and cast iron do. And the tin lags somewhat behind those in being truly nonstick. What I've discovered is that cooking certain things in tinned copper help in this process. #1 in my book is... popping popcorn. #2 is making chicken stock or soup. IMO, there is something about having the fats in the presence of steam or water vapor without browning that lays down some thin beneficial coating. You know when you have it, because the lining gradually goes a very dark brown without being greasy. Normal dish soap doesn't seem to affect it much.

These are a copy of the $$$ all-steel Dovo. Maybe what rotuts was remembering? They do come apart for cleaning. Their only downside, IMO, is that the removable compression spring can be lost.

Huh, I thought the purpose was to lift canning jar lids. Remember those?

Would. Especially at the rim edges, base scuffs and scratches. Followed by weakening of the bond 'twixt aluminum, primer and PTFE. Probably exacerbates thermal aging. Some night when you can't sleep... https://www.mdpi.com/2079-6412/11/11/1419

You are correct that this compound is Kryptonite to PTFE. It will also cling tenaciously to other linings. I stopped using sprays using lecithin as soon as th pure vegetable/olive sprays came available.

This is why the Good Lord made 1-handed pocketknives with clips.

Maybe the best argument is that if you're going to dance with the Devil by using PTFE at all, you can make a seasoned pan last a little longer, and delay more pollution.

Good point, but I think the only purpose of "seasoning" the PTFE is that it's no longer very nonstick. Frankly, a well-seasoned cast iron pan can be less sticky than a half-worn out PTFE one.

This is all 100% true. Let me add that the PTFE that is breaking down from "seasoning" will be impossible to fully clean. Trying to do so through repeated vinegar or baking soda boilings will void some warranties, as I've learned to my dismay. Swiss Diamond is one.

If evenness is important to you (and it should be with induction), IMO you will not be happy with either A-C or Made In. You should focus on thicker aluminum bases, like those under Demeyere Proline, Fissler Original Profi, Paderno Grand Gourmet, Cristel Castelane, or Ballarini. Or thicker (than A-C Copper Core) copper cores, as in Falk Coer or DeBuyer Prima Matera. If you are strong, Coer and Proline would be my picks for a single fry pan. They are expensive, but worth it.

IF... COULD... My point about Scandinavia is that the concept has been in trials there for years now. My understanding is that the concept makes the most sense for EV owners who only have short commutes to discharge=equipped parking stations, and no long frolics or errands after work. We can't even give people a decent range hogging all the charge to themselves.

If this concept was truly promising, why haven't we (or the Scandinavians who originated it) advanced the idea of charging our EVs at night and discharging the surplus electricity during the day? I suspect the laws of thermodynamics will prove a firm obstacle.

In shopping for these, I think it helps to consider what you want a "diffuser" to do. Do you want it to blunt or lower the heat, allowing a lower setting? Or do you want it to even out the heat across the pan bottom? While cast iron diffusers serve mostly the former goal, conductive ones serve mostly the latter. Depending what you're cooking and what on, the trivets like the Bella Copper can make for a decent substitute for $$$ copper bottoms. And you don't need more than a few. Personally, if my primary goal was to be able to go very low with heat, I would rather figure out a way to change out one or more gas jets.

Both my (old) houses have them.

This is basically an institutional application. You have lots of choices in that market.

This reminds me of the sales pitches and after-the-fact justifications for 700 horsepower cars that will only ever travel on city streets and 70mph highways. You can brown more hamburger at one time in the same large pan? This is needed?

Now you have. The Perfect Breaker takes it shape from labware, and famoulsy from the glass beakers once used for measuring photo development chemicals. I met the inventor one time, who explained in great detail how he commissioned the markings from a university professor of measures and standards. It is quite accurate with liquids and solids. As I've said, my only real issue is why it's plastic, and so will not hold up to hot liquids. https://www.amazon.com/Emsa-Perfect-Beaker-with-Seal/dp/B001BDLWE8?th=1

OK, here's what I wish: Somebody make a borosilicate glass breaker in 2-3 sizes that nest, have several measuring scales, and with the markings cast or layered into the glass. I LOVE the IMSA breaker, but it's plastic--it cracks and crazes. I like Catamount glass, but make one that's useful for different measures and with permanent markings. I would gladly pay triple. This is not like putting settlers on Mars...

For the good of the order, Cuisinart made discs (for at least the 11C models) that have attached stems that fit. I have the DLC-7Pro, and have yet to encounter one or the other that doesn't fit and work. For storing the discs, the detachable stems are great, but there's a tiny bit of "slop" when using those. Total PITA to store discs with the attached stems!

I would search on Amazon, eBay, Etsy, etc. for blades and discs using your machine model number. Before you buy, get assurances from the seller that what they offer will fit and work. Then buy, try (and return if they don't work). I've actually had decent luck with finding Cuisinart 12-cup pieces at garage and tag sales and junk shops. Are you aware of the safety recall? If your S-blade is old, you may still be able to get a FREE replacement. I hazard the guess that the "-1" designation is for the new blades. What specific pieces are you seeking? Good luck

Totally agree. The real bitch is when the hob has too few settings and the controls cause wide swings.

Well, if you say that this unit doesn't cycle, a meter is probably the only way to tell for sure. I can tell you that the Mirage Pro gives no observable signs of cycling, but it does, albeit the wattage changes within certain limits for the power settings. IF variable constant-on was practicable in home and restaurant markets, one would think it would already be everywhere.