Bux

It may just be the way the new shop is set up, but it appears as if they have a larger selection of interesting cheese than they used to in the old shop. It may just be that the cases are larger and one cheese is not hidden behind another. I'm also not sure how much of a hit and miss situation it may be of catching some unusual cheeses. The selection of imported cheese is mostly Italian although they often have a good French bucheron and compte and, of course, gruyere and ementhaler from Switzerland. We had a nice, if bland, tomme de chevre--or whatever they call it in Italy--and asked about goat cheeses the other day. This time they brought out a much larger cheese, I'd say about four inches tall and a good nine inches in diameter with a crusty rind. We took a taste of the cold cheese and bought a wedge. We we tasted it again at room temperature we thought it was one of the best cheeses we've had in a long time. It went quickly and my fear is that it's one of those cheeses they may only come upon infrequently and that when I go back, they will be out of it, especially if I give the name away here. Alright, it was called Costa Rossa and it came from the Piemonte region. Edit Mar 2: I was told it was called "Costa Rossa." I suspect that's it's name. There's a metal tag on the side that reads "Caseificio Pier Luigi Rosso." There's also a paper label that's not in very good shape and incomplete on my hunk that may say something like "Castel... Rosso." Still an excellent cheese the second time around and I'm told it's regularly in stock. Edit Mar 10: Went back for some more and was told this is a cow's milk cheese. I could have sworn it was a goat cheese. Anyway it's sold out at the moment, but should be back in stock soon.

I enjoyed Galicia very much. I've never been to Portugal and I don't know if Galicia would provide a good contrast or if you'd be better off coming into Portugal (or out of Portugal) from a more southerly route. Can you give us some idea of your intended route. The month of August is prime vacation time for many Europeans and traffic in resort areas will be heavy and rooms scarce to find. From early in September on, you should have fewer problems. That might help you in planning your route.

In regard to I agree, and I think it's because the former examples are more generically white-breaded and Americanized. and Tabla is considered less ethnic then Diwan is. Just like Patria is less ethnic then Havana Chelsea is. I suspect authenticity is part of most people's definition as well as apartness from one's own ethnicity.

I can only imagine what life is like when things go well for you. This confirms my impression that le Dome doens't really classify as a brasserie. The enclosed sidewalk cafe area is quite nice in winter and an excellent place to have oysters or a plateau des fruits de mer for lunch. The little cafe near Poilâne, was that called Cuisine de Bar? We've never had breakfast there, but have had a light lunch. They serve excellent tartines, or open faced sandwiches, on grilled pain Poilâne, as well as salads and desserts. It's one of those finds that may never justify a trip across town, but is ideal to have handy when it pervectly serves your needs.

Weinoo, did you also dine at a brasserie on Sunday? Were you pleased? I've never found the people of Paris snooty. They are in their way, a very formal people, but not snooty, assuming you take the pains to understand their formality. I have found Parisians as kind and considerate a group of people as I could hope to find. Of course this is a native New Yorker's view.

Ronda also has a one star restaurant listed in the 2002 Michelin as offering rather creative food--Liver (foie gras?) and cheese with caramelized green apple, soy and almonds; Andalusian gaspacho ice (ice cream?) with cherries; Tuna and ginger (in July and August); and confit of suckling pig in olive oil with a salad of fresh herbs. These dishes sound as if they make a considerable attempt to be creative with local foods and traditions.

Maybe my wife and I spent too much time in la Coupole in the sixties, but when I've passed by it in recent years, I've felt it seemed so different that I couldn't bring myself to pay a return visit. I second le Dome where I'd sit on the terasse and have some oysters or a plateau de fruits de mer although I don't know if le Dome stictly qualifies as a brasserie. I had a great andouillette at Balzar within the past year, but my wife was not particularly pleased with her breaded pig's foot. Of course you can also get lamb chops and roast chicken. Both the menu and the decor are really classic, but they don't serve oysters, which for me, is a brasserie classic. They also draw a lot of Americans, which may or may not make a difference. They are now part of the Flo Group which owns and operates most of the great old brasseries. Most people will agree that the individual brasseries have lost something since the group took them over. It can also be argued that had they not become part of this group they may have even suffered a worse fate. Brasserie Flo, the first brasserie to be bought out, is a real classic with an interior that will take you to Alsace. In fact it seems more Germanic that French, but it should be visited at some time for it's historic status and decor. Bear in mind that brasserie means bewery and that most of the really old brasseries were owned and operated by breweries. Beer or Alsatian wine was the drink and choucroute garni the dish to eat. Another Flo brasserie that's sort of a personal favorite is Vaudeville. It's got a great marble art deco interior. As with most brasseries, seafood platters, andouille, steak frites, etc. is probably a better choice than more complicated dishes. As far as oysters, sausages and other provisions, all of the Flo Group have the same sources. I've never been to Julian but I suppose it should be on everyone's short list.

What appears to be an award based on the best moment rather than an overall operation is peculiar for such a guide book. Steve P., I understand your point. When Michelin awards it's top honors--three stars--it's saying a restaurant is in the top class of all restaurants. GaultMillau has never awarded anyone a 20 before and has gone on record stating the 19.5 listings were unwise. So you are correct, when they say 20, they are implying not just the top class, but the best possible ever, even in the future.

I suppose there's baby beef and baby beef. What appears in Texas supermarkets may well be from surplus production of calves by farmers not interested in raising them to full maturity. What an artisanal farmer carefully produces may be a completely different product raised from a different breed. Most restaurants frown on serving three courses to three diners at a four top and an eight course tasting menu to the fourth diner. It's hell on the kitchen and serving staff. Many restaurants pride themselves on sending out a variety of dishes when a table orders a tasting menu. A table of four might get main courses in pairs or even four different dishes. In addition, a truly fine world class restaurant will most often be willing to create a special tasting menu to cater to the needs of one member of a party. The classic example for me is my first meal at El Bulli, a restaurant whose standard tasting menu was about 85% fish or seafood. When we arrived, we were asked if we wanted the tasting menu (as of last year they only offered a tasting menu, but this was earlier). We said five of us would like it, but one of us has an allergy to all fish and shellfish. Our captain replied that he was aware of our reservation fax which noted that one of our party was so afflicted and that they were prepared to serve a non sea menu. Note also that in spite of the fact that they were prepared, we were in no way obligated to take the tasting menu. We were all unknown to the restaurant by the way and all that we had done to rate special treatment is to let them know we were aware of the restaurant's syle and express our interests ahead of time. We ordered moderatly to inexpensive wines, although we let the house pick our cava. To our surprise it turned out to be less expensive that most of the wines we ordered that evening. Even if you hated Adria's food, you'd have to admit it El Bulli is a class act. Fat Guy made a good point discussing the issue of waiting in the lounge. What the customer wants is not always what the house has planned for his care and feeding. I may be repeating what several Steves have already said and my words may fall on deaf ears as some people respond poorly to the suggestion that how they behave is not the way that may be most beneficial to their enjoyment of a restaurant, but if you're new to three star Michelin dining or its closest equivalent here in America (any that doesn't exist in any widespread form in this country although it is spreading) take your hints from your serving team. They are not all cut from the mold that Lizziee's man is, but he's not an aberration. Let's assume I am asked to wait in the lounge against my wishes and I feel that someone else is getting that empty table and that I feel the next one to open is not any better--a worst case scenario that means I am actually being passed over in favor of a vip or friend of the house, not that it's actually a proven case, but, let's assume it for the sake of my argument. I can make a fuss and probably not get the table as well as earning the wrath of the staff, or maybe I'll get the table and lousy service or I can go with the flow and feel rahter confidnent that a professional staff will see that ultimately I get a exceptional evening of fine dining with some compensation for making life easier for them. These guys are your friends and a lot of respect and cooperation will go further than a twenty dollar bill. Lizziee I'd also like to hear more from your visitor. Few service people will refuse a big tip, but most the front of the house staff I know in really fine restaurants and some more popular level fine restaurants will go out of their way for the little guy especially if he proves himself a likable little guy. Anyone who thinks they are entitled to the same level of service whether they are rich or poor, famous or unknown, or a big tipper or not are right in my mind, but anyone who believes they are entitled to the same service if they are polite or obnoxious is wrong. You may have to lay out big bucks for caviar, but for a good table, fine service and a chicken cooked as well as it can be, all you should need is the menu price and a smile, but as our friendly service person says, you also have to be a realist.

For those who worry that Wilfird has such a short term memory problem that he can't remember back half a page, be advised that Wilfrid's memory is good. A quick search brought up three threads that now serve much better as one. The post to which Wilfrid refers is now part of this thread. It wasn't when he posted the message.

I'll line up behind those who feel the 20 may have been awarded with a mind towards garnering publicity. It is almost as if Michelin announced there would be a restaurant that earned an unprecedented fourth star--if Michelin was number two. I haven't been at Veyrat recently and can't comment on the style of the food currently served, but I don't see how a fear of Spain is driving GaultMillau. Either they approve of Veyrat's style or they feel it is controversial enough to help with the publicity. That it may be influenced by what's happening in Catalonia or the Basque region would only lend credence to a recognition that Spain is a great influence and not that they fear that influence, in my mind.

I was under the impression that we had one of the least expensive rooms and we had sliding glass doors with a view. My recollection was that the glass was full width of the room, but that might not be the actual case. In any event there was a wide view. As we were there on opening day, the inn may not have been full and there is the possibility that we were upgraded.

Are you suggesting one might tip individuals that way, or leave a tip to be pooled by the staff? When one checks out in the morning, one may or may not see the same people who served dinner. In any event, the diner is likely to have been served by a team. Only once have I seen someone try and leave a tip at checkout at a fine inn in France. It was a few years ago at Marc Meneau's l'Esperance. The young woman at the desk was as obstinate about not being able to distribute a gratuity to the dining room staff as the American gentleman was about insisting on leaving some sum for the service. She was most clear about there being neither a mechanism or precedent at her disposal for handling the tips. I don't ever recall seeing other guests who are staying at an inn leave cash on the table and if they tip, I'm oblivious to how and when they do it. I have been perplexed that it is our custom to leave a tip in a restaurant not connected to the inn in which I am staying when dining in Paris or the provinces, but not leaving a tip for the dining room staff at a fine inn.

Lizziee, I enjoyed that post for several reasons.

The earliest GaultMillau guide I have around is from 1987. It has ads. I don't think it ever quote rivaled Michelin in importance and it's certainly not at its peak. It still seems to be about the second most referred to guide for restaurants in France. Even those who don't use it will often note that a restaurant got two stars from Michelin and a 17 from GM. Someone posted recently that the GaultMillau magazine had published its last issue and is now gone. That has led to rumors of the demise of the guide.

Over a year ago, Penelope Casa had an article in the Sunday NY Times Travel Section about dining in Paradores. Some of them are apparently quite good. Theoretically, they are all supposed to offering representative regional food.

Cabby, aren't all ratings perceptions of the organization of person doing the rating? I don't know why La Cote St. Jacques left us a little cool. I wouldn't argue the two stars Michelin awards, but coming between Gagnaire in Paris and Hotel du Lion d'Or and Domaine des Hauts de Loire in the Loire, it was the least satisfying of the four. Still an exceptional restaurant just not a 19 in my humble opinion based on a single meal.

Fat Guy's the teacher. Listen to him. Wilfrid, are you saying that a dozen free meals at expensive restaurants across the country doesn't make any sense? Nine pages of discussion about the article might not make much sense, but meals on the company dime make a lot of sense. Do you thnk the WSJ will treat me to a dozen pair of expensive shoes if I promise to try and get comped a shoe shine kit at each bootmaker's.

So that would rule out kidnapping the chef's wife and kids and holding them for ranson in return for something really special from the kitchen?

This is up there with 7 Minute Abs. Now there's a marketing concept. You wear it under your shirt. It's invisible to everyone in the dining room. It offers instant vip treatment or your money back. It costs $19.95 and is not available in stores.

I,m not asking them to adopt my methods.All i can do is run my place how i feel is right You have a luxury Alain Ducasse does not. On the other hand, he might have a few of his own.

Could someone who read the article tell me if they can determine how often these reporters actually got special food as opposed to how often thought they got something special. I'm not inclined to take the clueless reporter's word for all that much.

The person who is taking his wife out for a 10th anniversary for which he has saved up and for which he is willing to spend a lot of money. The fat cat can more easily be placated with all sorts of comped luxuries so he forgets about the foie gras/sea urchin 10 way dish. That of course assumes the restaurant knows the little guy is not just a tourist eating over his head and has saved up to treat his wife on this special occasion. I hope he made that clear when he reserved. Of course we're also assuming the the fat cat is, although apparently healthy, within days or weeks of dying from a terminal disease and has been asking for weeks to be informed of when this dish would be available. Interestingly enough, two, if not three, Steves have offered good advice for both of those parties if they're so keen on getting the most out of a meal.

There are things chefs do for clients who drop large sums at the restaurant because, quite frankly, this is a business and none of us get to eat the chef's food if the restaurant doesn't run at a profit, and there are things chefs do for diners they respect on the basis of their food knowledge and appreciation. Steve P, sometimes makes ambiguous references to connoisseurs who have deep pockets and thus it's not always easy to understand what drives the chef in those cases. I should imagine that if I were a chef, there's nothing more that I'd like than to know I have a client who not only appreciates my food, but won't leave when I have to raise my prices. I suspect I'd do a lot to make him happy once I'd identified him. Nevertheless we should not dismiss the things that chefs do for love of feeding the connoisseur no matter his spending patterns. Now back to Shaw's lesson on how to convice a chef you're a connoiseur of his food. Reading that lesson is much more fruitful than arguing against the concept of vip.

If I've never been to a restaurant, I really doubt that I am going to truly miss not eating a dish that's not on the menu. On the other hand, if I am a regular and have probably eaten everything on the menu in one form or another at least twice, I'll be in a much greater position to appreciate something that's never in reliable enough abundance to ever make the menu. I've also never run into a restaurant that didn't try to offer something special to a customer it recognizes as a regular. That includes some soup noodle dives in Chinatown where the something special is no more than a big smile and a warm greeting. At the more expensive levels, this is an old tradition that becomes more complex and as others have noted, the issue of the article cannot be removed from the concept of vip treatment. Perhaps I was too coy or facetious when I suggested I don't ask for what the boys in the back room are having and stoically accept preferential treatment when it's forced on me. There's a literal truth to that self image, but I have my strategies for getting the best out of a restaurant even if they don't exactly coincide with Steve P's. I once told someone that knowing her had really gotten me some special food and service. She replied that what it had gotten me was the attention of the executive chef who decided I really liked and understood food and that it was the latter that got me the special treatment. I sense there will be an expression of outrage and members asking why that chef isn't knocking himself out 100% all the time for every diner. I know everyone here does that or their boss wouldn't be paying them to log on here. Or less sarcastically we all know every star athlete gives 100% on the field, but why is is that when we see the movie where the dying man is wheeled into the stadium to see his grandson play in the championship game, we know the kid is going to give it something extra. I sense such a hypocrisy about the way many people deal with restaurants. I'm no longer amazed to see it. I've had people tell they are so offended by vip treatment that they'll pay extra and eat worse food not to have to see someone else get better treatment in a restaurant. Well I've been willing to cut my nose to spite my face, but I'm not cutting my tongue and will not spite my taste buds.