JayPeeBee

Several years ago we took an ten day trip through the Sologne region. During game season. We had some of the best meals (game) ever in France and loved the desolate, very untouristy towns and countryside. Along the way we made a pilgrimage to the hotel where the tarte tatin was created and enjoyed a good lunch and surprisingly, the best tart tatin (other than mine) I've tasted. This area is close enough to Sancerre and the Loire wine villages to include them. There was wonderful antiquiing and just interesting driving. It was one of the most memorable trips we've taken.

Robert. Do your criticisms of Citarella hold for the west side store as well? I've shopped there frequently and have no complaints about quality or service. Where is the French Butcher? We had one in our neighborhood (B'way/91) next to Carmines and we bought all our meat from him. he left about six years ago. He had the best sausages! Chorizo et. al.

I've tried Plugra, Kellers, the new Ultra fat butter in a yellow wrapper, and none come close to the taste of French butter from Normandy (Charentes). Marie d'Issigny is another French brand (SP?) that I recall for great butter. Egg Farm Dairy was supposed to have made an equivalent product but I never found its taste to be as satisfying. I do prefer by butter less cold or a little on the room temp. side. But I also refer it unmelted on toast. Which is a neat trick.

Obviously there are big differences among butters. I've found the French "Beurre de Celles" from Charante tastes best. I've tried domestic butters and none come close to this flavor. (Land 'O Lakes unsalted is not bad). My main taste test is simply spread on fresh french bread, good sourdough or good bagel. I'm wondering what b&b lovers on this forum think?

I've used carbon steel knives (bought from Dehilleron in Paris) for over thirty years. Yes they get ugly but boy do they cut. A couple of passes over the steel after and before each use and a light coating of oil now and then keep them in fine shape. I also have some French "Inox" knives--a thin stainless steel. They are equally as good and stay unblemished. But I do like the weight and feel of the carbon steel. One carbon chef's knife I've had for over twenty years has never been reground--just steeled, and it works like a charm. A lot depends on what I am cutting and the kind of prep work I'm doing for which knife feels and works best. It's a very subjective thing.

Sorry, Chez Denise, Denise...my spell check finger didn't work. I like their onglet and their sweetbreads.

Chez Denis.. Yes...Love the place. Very busy, good basic food, lots of it. A good place to take someone who hasn't been to Paris before as a first experience.

This is the third edition of this book. The first, Paris Bistros and Wine Bars was published by Echo about ten years ago. The second about five years ago. The one for sale now, with the red cover was published this past April. There are a couple of excellent French language bistro guides. Lebey is one. There is also a very good one in German. But I read faster in English!

So who's kosher? "Not I," said the pappa bear. CelRay Tonic tastes awful but resounds in the nostalgic memory of a kid from da Bronyx. Dr. Brown's Cream Soda, OK. Black Cherry...any time anywhere. For my money, Boylan's is making the best versions of these flavors now. But I digress.

Ah. I understand your thinking. Yes, the Hamburger's book was written after many years of experience with the three star contingent all over France, and they (and we) "graduated" to the "simpler" pleasures of bistro food. La Grille, for example, serves a turbot with beurre blanc sauce that brings tears to my eyes. The poulet vin jaune avec morilles at Chez Maitre Paul, the lievre a la royale at A Sousceyrac and the surprising menu and wonderful atmosphere at la Fountaine de Mars are places I doubt we would have "discovered" if not for this book.

I live in the city Mon-Fri. And we'd drive a ways for a great meal, haut or not. Café Tamayo has better Confit de canard than any I've had in France (Gasp!) and the best pot roast I've ever had. The mashed potatoes are on a par with Robuchon's (Gasp 2!). The rabbit is fantastic ...well I've not eaten anything there that didn't make we want to come back for more of the same. So anything exciting and as good in a 50 mile radius of Putnam Valley is fair game (no pun intended).

Pilgrim: I'm curious to know what you meant when you wrote that posters here would not "identify" with the Hamburger's Bistro Guide but readers will? Do you mean that eGullet posters think they are beyond this book in their knowledge of Paris bistros?

Risoto is one of my favorite dishes to cook for guests. My preferences lean to seafood and mushroom variations. I love, but haven't tackled black risoto yet. I'd be interested in other recipe ideas. For convenience, I buy freshly made fish stock from Citarella's or Jake's Fish Store here in NY. I doubt that home made fish stock would be much better, but I'd be open to opinions on that. I use arborio rice exclusively. I'm unaware of any quality differences among the arborio rices avalaible in super markets and specialty stores. Any opinions?

Sheesh, and youse guys don't know a really good egg cream when youse find one. Fox's U-Bet Chocolate syrup (about 2" in the bottom of a tall (12 oz. glass). Add another 2" of half and half and stir until blended. Then slowly add selzter or Perrier, stirring to minimize the foam. When the head is about 2" high at the top of the glass, stop. Add one or two straws and serve with one or two pretzle sticks. Or a pastrami sandwich. Or a kosher salami sandwich. or...... I use official egg cream glasses from juniors that have the ingredient proportions marked on the side. Keep at it Damian, and you'll discover what the fuss is all about.

Oh, I forgot to mention that I tried pheasant eggs, which are available in a nearby market and they were the most "eggy" eggs I've ever tasted. They are about 1/2 the size of chicken eggs, so you need to use about six per person. Same method. You can really taste the difference if you use very fresh eggs vs. those that have been in the fridge for a week or so.