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Mark Sommelier

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Posts posted by Mark Sommelier

  1. "More than a month later, I found myself at Circle Bistro again, eating a sublime beef tartare shocked with capers and pickle juice and presented with a cone of delicate, house-made potato chips. No wonder this classic endures. "

    --Tom Sietsema

    How could I forget this one? The tartare at Circle Bistro is first rate.

  2. (BUMP)

    I keep hearing terrific things about this place, as a matter of fact, just twice this past week.  And now, the RAMMY's have included Chef Rob Klink as one of its five contenders for top Rising Star (along with Cathal Armstrong of Restaurant Eve, Katsuya Fukushima of Café Atlantico, Johnny Monis of Komi, and Bryan Voltaggio of Charlie Palmer Steak).

    Anyone been lately? What can you report?

    Get the big shellfish platter and crabcakes for main course. You won't have room for anything else. Those are the things they do best.

  3. Last time I was in Vienna I stumbled my way through some Heurigen which are ultimately local family run wineries that got swallowed up by the city during it's expansiton.  Wonderful spots where you feel like your sitting in someones garden drinking the most god aweful white blend that seems like a cross of sav blanc, chardonnay, and crab apples but I digress the food is fantastic at each place and really a great spot to while away a day in Vienna.

    Even 30 years ago when I was there, Grinzing was a tourist trap. Armies of tour buses would pull up and clog the streets. 2 hours later hordes of weary, drunken travelers full of baked chicken and new wine poured out into the narrow streets. Something you want to see only once. Much more fun was to hop in the car and journey out to Gumpoldskirchen or Coblenz.

  4. I was a kid (7+) and those were among the best years of my life.  However, in the 1970s-1980s Vienna was certainly not the foodie destination it is today.  Certainly the local specialities were and are wonderful but fine dining was a joke at the time (according to my parents) so we made frequent culinary trips to Italy and France.

    I still maintain that most Austrian wine (especially Red) sucks......

    One of the most memorable meals of my life was had at Zu dem Drei Husaren in the first district near the Stephansdom. Service, food and ambience combined into something magical and something I had never experienced before.

    Austrian whites have come a long way since the days we used to swill liters of cheap plonk.

  5. I lived in Vienna for 8 years and we only took visiting tourists to Damel.

    I lived in Vienna for a year in college. I went to Demel's once. It was VERY expensive compared to other konditerei. At the time there was a small chain called Aida. We went to the one across from the opera house almost everyday after music lessons. I became addicted to the topfengulatchen (and came home much heavier than when I went).

  6. having recently re-partaked of bistro francais' version, i can definitely attest to its status as the paragon of raw ruminants seasoned liberally with mustard and other delectables. washed down with a bottle of gigondas: raw meat and velvety red wine, what's not to like?

    like malawry, i do share the belief in its inherent richness and thus, it was shared. for the sybaritic and indulgent out there though, this would make a very appropiate and delicious meal.

    The tartare at The Guards is made fresh for each order. Those at BdC and Bistro Français are good, but seem to be made ahead of time.

  7. If you promise not to laugh.....

    I've eaten steak tartare all over town. My favorite is still at The Guards on M St. in Georgetown. Second place is Bistro Français.

    I absolutely will not laugh, but I had no idea it was on their menu. Thanks for the tip.

    At The Guards, its an appetizer. Freshly chopped, it is moist and well seasoned. At Bistro F, its a main course with excellent frites.

  8. Tonight's the big night - my first trip to CityZen with The Girlfriend and future in-laws. 

    Anyone been in the last couple weeks who had something that just absolutely shouldn't be missed? 

    If a person eats at CityZen tonight, Minibar tomorrow night and Citronelle on Saturday, about how many calories and grams of saturated fat do you think he'll ingest?  Is it possible he could die of some sort of glorious butter overdose?

    I had dinner there 2 nights ago. It was wonderful. The standout dish of the night: braised lamb short-ribs.

  9. Old Ebbitt happy hour rules. Mind you that it applies to the happiest of all hours between midnight and 2 a.m.  What fun! Get off the closing shift, get a few buddies and haul bottom in to kick back in style with oysters and chilled white. Where else can one be so sybaritic so late at night?

    And oh, the best part is that at that time, the wide-eyed visitors to DC are usually fast asleep in their Holiday Inns, dreaming, no doubt, of cherries and blossoms.  No one but the true criminals around.

    I had an awesome "Orca" last night for half price! Yikes!

  10. 7(Apologies for length, repetition and rambling.)

    Steve,

    After reading this post through 3 times, I still can't figure out if you are kissing or biting Tom's ass. You included a lot of "insider" stuff, too. I guess that's cool. I must say, most people reading this board haven't the faintest clue what you're alluding to. I would call you the Bourdain of Washington, but I think that's no longer PC on eG.

  11. First, any restaurant meal depends on what you order. Chinese places have huge menus. Everything can't be great. That said, I had an incredible meal last week at New Big Wong (Gallery Place Metro - Red Line). Live shrimp, dungeness crabs, clams, whole fish. The "special" fried rice with dried scallops and lobster is the best rice I've ever had (and no soy sauce!).

    Mei Wah has the best BBQ ribs in the city, IMO. Order a double.

    Mr. Chen's has an appetizer of Peking Duck Rolls - order a double, they are that good.

  12. Thanks.  I live in 3A (at least I think I do - must revisit this question) so I was trying to figure out if we were talking $10 or $30.

    From Van Ness to there should be either $5.50 or $7.60. Take a bus, it costs a buck. There are no $30 fares within the District.

  13. Joe--

    You are far too intelligent and perceptive in your observations to continue to miss the simple point that what you continue to harp about is the direct result of the limited size of the place, not a decision on my part.

    Why should I have to continue to apololgize to you for the fact that after working my ass off for twelve years, saving every penny that I could, putting everything I had on the line, even liquidating my IRA to stay afloat when Ray's was about to go under, that I was not able to build a restaurant to suit your needs?

    Three years, seven days a week, one hundred hours a week, no vacation, no days off--how much more of my time do you want so that your calls never go unanswered?

    What you call arrogance is what a small restaurant does to survive the best it can, while satisfying its clientele the best it can.

    --Michael

    I'm with you, Michael. You have nothing to apologize for. This ought to be the last word on this subject.

  14. A Sunday night visit to the bar at Vidalia was both quiet and relaxing. We sampled some spectacular new dishes on the menu. Cornmeal breaded oysters were perfect. Southern Style Cassoulet was hearty and quite delicious: braised pork shoulder, pork belly, sausages and a sprinkling of beans in a delicous savory sauce. Calotte of Beef was off the charts. The Calotte is the cap of the rib-eye. Deeply flavored, great texture. The Mac and Cheese finished me off. A special compliment to Doug for the great work he has done on the winelist. Beautifully arranged and full of interesting selections, plus a huge assortment of wines by the glass available in tasting and regular pours.

  15. Okay, I have to have one of these.

    Having never been to Citronelle, is the "lounge" easily distinguishable from the more formal restaurant?  How busy is it generally for dinner?

    The Citronelle Bar is at street level and accessed from 30th Street. The restaurant is downstairs. Its hard to predict how busy the bar will be. The kitchen opens at 6.

    Come on down!

  16. This past weekend, March 12th, was a major wine event in New York City. This was the fourth La Paulée de Meursault that was produced in Manhattan by Drew Nieporent and his accomplices. It took place at the New York W Hotel at 49th and Lexington. I was lucky to be invited to be a guest sommelier. 275 people paid $1275 a ticket for dinner. There were a great many top vignerons there, the mayor of Meursault, and the amazing and wonderful Cadets de Bourgogne, who sang all night. The Cadets sang, not everyone else. This is basically a very posh BYOB event. The bottles that showed up were heart-stopping. A 6 Liter bottle of Romanee Conti 1979 (brought by my new best friend RK) was the wine of the night. There were so many bottles of good vintage DRC wines flying around that it made my head spin. I was able to taste a Richebourg from my birth year (1952) !!

    The wines the table I was assigned to were served 2001 Marc Colin Montrachet and 1999 David Duband Echezeaux. These were the "house" wines". Then the BYOB part kicked in. Magnums and Jeroboams of Le Montrachet, Jeroboams of La Tache, Richebourg, Echezeaux flying around. Burgundy vintages back into the 20's were brought. Daniel Johnnes (from Montrachet) arranged the whole thing. He did a fine job. I had an amazing time.

    Anyone else go?

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