carswell

This just in. A series of high-end Italian wines, mostly Supertuscans from the Antinori stable, are going on sale tomorrow, June 23, at the SAQ Signature store in Montreal. Guado al Tasso ('96, '97, '98, '99, '01), La Vite Lucente ('98), Saxa Calida ('01), Solaia ('94, '95, '96, '97, '98, '01), Tignanello ('94, '95, '96, '97, '98) and Brunello di Montalcino San Felice ('99). Formats range from 750 ml to 3 L, prices from $39 (the 750-ml Vita Lucente) to $1,499 (the 3-L '97 Solaia). Exceptionally, all sales will be made by phone (514 282-9445, 1 888 454-7007). The lines open at 10 a.m. For several wines, purchases are limited to as few as one bottle per customer. For details, call the Signature store or PM me your e-mail address and I'll forward you a copy of the flyer. More later. Gotta get back to work... edit: Forgot the 1998 Tignanello at $99 (ouch).

Raza cuisine nuevo latino 114 Laurier West, Montreal 514 227-8712 Tu-Sa 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. website

Was just talking with a linguist friend and the question of how people pronounce SAQ came up. Francophones seem increasingly to be pronouncing it as a word (homonym of sac) while anglos seem stuck on spelling it out (S-A-Q). Which leads to my query: Do you or any local anglos you know pronounce "the SAQ" as "the sack"? I wonder if we'll end up following the French trend.

Hey, another lollipop lover! Who knew?

The Sélections mondiales des vins is an SAQ-run biennial wine competition that was originally part of the Salon des vins but now is an entity unto itself. The next one will be in June of 2006. Among the inducements for winemakers to participate is that the winning products are listed and promoted by the SAQ; if I'm not mistaken, it's how the Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc made it onto the monopoly's shelves and may be why KC's other wines, most of which are on sale at the LCBO, didn't. Generally speaking, the competition is too compartmentalized and low profile to ensure that all the winners are attention-worthy wines, though it does turn up the occasional gem. They have a website: Sélections mondiales des vins de Montéal. edit: double negative

Yes! They always slip my mind. And I still haven't gotten around to trying their confit. Anyway, chances are good they'll have goat or kid on hand.

People in the Saguenay and the Gaspé would strongly disagree. As a self-centred Montrealer, I lean toward privatization; if I lived outside a major urban area, I wouldn't. And, like it or not, our political system gives voters outside the city a disproportionate say in how things are run. Also, many in the biz and around the fringes don't feel even Montrealers, except for a fortunate few with the deepest pockets, would be better off post privatization. Due to its buying power, the SAQ has enormous clout with producers. If, like most Quebecers, you're a fan of French wines, you'd probably find your choice limited, not increased. Certainly, when I look at US cities of comparable size and wealth, I don't see the overall wine situation as being any brighter than it is here; quite the contrary, in fact. And wine lovers there end up running around a lot more than they do here. It'll never happen. The monopoly is far too popular with the general public, and the unions simply wouldn't stand for it. There's discussion of this upthread, so I won't repeat it here. Please explain how a promotional agent who bids the highest in a competition and then forks over tens of thousands of dollars for end-of-aisle placement of products already on sale at the SAQ is a diversion of your tax dollars. And do you really think such product placement doesn't happen in, say, your neighbourhood grocery store or dépanneur? Hoo, boy! Get your facts striaght. The government doesn't shield us to skim all the profits. In a privatized system, the government would make sure its take is every bit as high as now. Your definition of what constitutes the finest wine, of course. Unfortunately for you, most people would rather drink Little Penguin. Life's a bitch for us snobs, you know. edit: spelling, clarity.

I get my neighbourhood butcher to special-order it for me. He needs a week's notice: Boucherie de Paris (5216 Gatineau, 514 731-6615). Several butchers at Jean-Talon and Atwater markets will also special-order it and may even stock it from time to time. Try Boucherie du Maché (south side of JTM, 514 270-7732), Capitol (ditto, 514 276-1345) and Le Prince Noir (east side of JTM, 514 906-1110). In her column in last week's Hour, MaeveH mentions that there's now a Latin American butcher on the north side of the JTM, Boucherie-carniceria Mundial, but doesn't provide contact info. That'd probably be a good bet, as would the two branches of the pan-Latin American Supermarché Andes (436 Bélanger corner St-Denis, 514 277-4130; and 4387 St-Laurent, 514 848-1078). There are also some Jamaican butchers on Victoria north and south of Van Horne and in Westmount/NDG; perhaps someone more knowledgeable will chime in with details.

I don't particularly care for sangria, have tried a wine cooler a total of once in my life, have no fond memories of spiked punch and scorn Sutter Home even on airplanes when it's the only option, so perhaps you'll understand why I find such comments insulting. I also find them totally off the mark. How you get from a medium-bodied, dry, mainly grenache blend (20% tempranillo and 10% cabernet sauvignon) with a tart finish to a wine cooler or fruit punch is beyond comprehension. Any merchant, monopoly or not, is fair game for criticism. But if the criticizer doesn't want to be written off as a whiner or a windbag, he had better know something about the object of his criticism. Certainly not as good as in Ontario or, for west coast ice wines, Alberta and BC. And less good than it used to be. There's a reason for that: it doesn't sell particularly well anymore. Quebec consumers find it always expensive and often overpriced. Many would rather drink a sweet wine from France, Italy or Portugal; others opt for the new "ice wine" on the block, ice cider, or one of the far more affordable and, frankly, frequently more enjoyable late-harvest wines from Ontario, such as Château des Charmes' late-harvest riesling. So? The SAQ isn't pushing it on restaurateurs. And, as LC points out, the only reason you see so much of it on display in SAQ outlets these days is because the promotional agent is paying megabucks for a short-term promotional blitz in hopes of a Yellow Tail-like success. If consumers like it, it will stay around. If they don't, it'll be a flash in the pan. Are you suggesting the SAQ and restaurants not stock popular wines? That the SAQ not accept fees for shelf-talkers and end-of-aisle displays, fees it'd have to make up by raising prices or cutting back service? If you mean like the LCBO's, no. Thank god. www.saq.com has a monthly list of a dozen or so selected new arrivals that usually goes up a couple of weeks before release. In the early days of www.saq.com, they used to list nearly all impending arrivals a week or three in advance; have never understood why they stopped, though it might have been related to the switch-over to the new inventory tracking system that now enables them to provide real-time availability listings for products, even on their website. The Courrier vinicole works something like the LCBO's Classics Catalogue, although the wines in a given offer tend to be from a single region. For example, the current offer, also available through www.saq.com, is for 2002 Burgundies. The date and location of the release of a very few high-demand, low-quantity items, such as Tignanello and Sassicaia, are announced a month or so beforehand. Diehards begin queueing at 5 or 6 in the morning. The doors open at 10 and the stock is sold out by 10:30 or 11. The Signature and some Sélection outlets send out mostly weekly e-mail announcements of new arrivals and specials. If you're interested in the wines of a particular producer — California's Ridge, for example, or France's Beaucastel — you can contact the promotional agent for a general idea of the release date. The outlets that will stock it usually have a good idea of when they will receive it.

And now for something completely different... At ExoFruits on Saturday, Mexican jumping beans. Four active beans, a little smaller than peaberry coffee beans, in a small transparent pastic box for $1.99. No idea as to the shelf life of these things, so don't make a detour without calling first: (514) 738-1384.

Thanks for this, Mr. Beans. I'd avoided replying because the post came across as either a troll or an insult thrown at the upthread correspondents who said they liked the Borsao and L.A. Cetto petite sirah. Having had both wines, the Borsao on several occasions, I consider neither excremental in the slightest. The Borsao was first recco'd to me several months ago by one of best (most knowledgeable, experienced and perceptive) wine tasters I know: "Difficile de demander plus à ce prix-là" was how he put it. Others have since joined the praise-signing chorus, including many local critics, e.g. Phaneuf, the only one whose guide I have at hand, who gives the wine three stars ("très bon") and a heart ("bon rapport qualité-prix") and includes it in his yearly list of 24 good wines under $13. Sure, I wouldn't complain if it showed greater breadth, depth and length. But at $11.50, I'm happy to drink it, lightly chilled, with picnic chicken or a weeknight pizza. And, to speak from recent experience, it makes an excellent basis for a daube provençale. The Cetto I'm less enthusiastic about — indeed, I found it hard to finish a bottle over two nights — but not because the wine lacked fruit. On the contrary, the highly extracted, superripe and jammy fruit is what made it hard to swallow (I buy a bottle of shiraz about once a decade; U.S. wines account for less than 5% of my purchases these days; and I tend to view a 90-point-or-higher rating from Parker as a warning). But I can certainly see how fans of the style would find the wine to their liking. There's no denying that the SAQ could do better at the low end. Many value wines that US east coast wine geeks rave about are unknown to Quebecers. Has the SAQ ever stocked any of the Clos Roche Blanche portfolio? And as dutchrusk points out, our selection of inexpensive German wines is laughable (though at least part of the reason is lack of demand; as a group, Ontarians prefer sweeter wines and are not predisposed to francophilia; also, many more of them have Germanic roots). With California wines, I think the problem lies more with the prices. Even in the States, it's hard to find much of interest in the sub-US$15 range (still, Pepperwood Grove and Navarro are two high-QPR labels I'd like to see on our shelves). And let's not place the blame entirely on the monopoly's shoulders; nothing is stopping Quebec-based "promotional agents" (the so-called importers) from pitching such wines to the SAQ. A couple of final points: When comparing prices, people should remember that the mark-up is ultimately determined by the Quebec government (the SAQ controls only how part of the mark-up is applied) and that our prices include sales tax (a hefty 15+%) while US prices almost never do. And check out some of the non-eG wine boards where at least two New York wine geeks are in the midst of posting notes from low-end taste-a-thons. One, whose ceiling is US$10 (after case discount and before taxes), has had a success rate of around 3%. The other, whose ongoing series is titled "Boatloads of Cheap Crap" but who is willing to pay slightly more, is probably averaging 6-8%. And, by the way, one of the authors quotes a NYC wine store clerk as saying "$20 is the new $10." Well, US$20 sans sales tax works out to about C$28.50 including GST/QST. And, there are plenty of excellent wines on sale at the SAQ for much less than that.

Heads up! From Thursday, June 16, through Sunday, June 19: - 10% off all wines over $20 - 10% off all saq.com purchases over $100. Edit: The first promotion applies to all red, white and rosé wines, aperitif wines, dessert wines, Quebec wines and sparkling wines including champagne in all outlets, including the Signature stores. It does not apply to bottles three litres and bigger or to gift packages.

Have only just begun tasting some of this summer's rosé offerings, if anything more depressing than last year's. Report to follow at some point, assuming I don't get fed up with drinking dreck. That said, I've encoutered one really bright spot — not only the best of the rosés tasted to date but good enough that I expect it won't be beat by the remainder — and I thought I'd send out a heads-up, as the wine is fairly flying off the shelves (several outlets have already sold out) and all signs are pointing to a rosé summer if ever there were one. 2004 Vin Gris de Cigare, Bonny Doon ($16.55, i.e. $0.05 more expensive than the 2003, while many French rosés have gone up $1 or so). Nearly half grenache, slightly more than a quarter mourvèdre and the rest cinsault, rousanne, syrah and marsanne. 13% alcohol/volume, which it wears lightly. Light orangish pink to the eye. Inviting nose of nectarine and lime/orange/grapefruit zest with some hibiscus and garigue floating around in there too. Strawberry/peachish (mit pit) on the palate with herbes de Provence and a touch of creaminess. Good acidity and, unlike the 2003, totally, blessedly dry. Persistant grape skin (Red Flame?) flavours on a finish that just doesn't quit. I can confirm that it makes an excellent aperitif with savoury nibbles; it's also easy to imagine alongside grilled salmon, seafood and chicken, paella, charcuteries, tarte aux blettes... This is one of the best-ever Vins Gris de Cigare, folks, easily rivalling any Tavel or CDR you might care to mention. And unlike them, it comes with a screwcap. Carpe diem.

Many professional wine tasters are also smokers, some of them heavy smokers. The palate adjusts. Anecdotally, when I gave up smoking, I noticed no change in my ability to taste or smell, though I did begin to find second-hand smoke extremely irritating. Does smoking kill the palate? No. At least not until you get buccal cancer.

Well, there's a recipe in the Larousse gastronomique (the 1984 edition; don't know if Robuchon and company left it in the new one). And I believe I first read about it many moons ago in one of the 100 fiches-cuisine de Elle books. The once I've served it to a French person, back in the early '80s, she said it wasn't new to her (and she was from Perpignan, not Provence). Also, I've never met an American watermelon that was spiked with anything other than hard stuff or juiced as per the French recipe.

Much less fuss and mess than with the standard model's ashtray. Another drawback: The grill is designed to be used with briquettes, not charcoal or wood. The sidebaskets don't work particularly well with charcoal, for example. And far too many charcoal/wood embers fall into the ashtray or ashcatcher (a fire hazard with the ashtray and wasteful to boot).

Have never got one but in the "As the Spit Turns" chapter of It Must Have Been Something I Ate, Jeffrey Steingarten says it's the only reason to own a Weber: After a first, only somewhat successful attempt at spit-roasting a chicken using the side baskets as per Weber's instructions ("never attained a properly high temperature"), he "dumped ten pounds of charcoal into the Weber, ignited it all, and 15 mintues later shoveled most of it away from the center." With temperature well above 500ºF, he achieved perfection. Conclusion? "Weber's electric rotisserie attachment halfway redeems the company."

I've heard of it, made it and even talked about it on eG (just don't ask me where). Pastèque à la provençale. The versions I know involve spiking the melon with Tavel rosé. Cut a hole at the stem end of the melon; scoop out some of the flesh and as many seeds as possible; fill cavity with wine; plug the hole with the rind; seal with wax (elegant) or duct tape (practical); chill for a couple of hours; unplug hole; drain and strain wine and juices into a pitcher; serve glasses of the liquor with slices of the melon. Best dang use for Tavel I ever did see. No skinny on the origins of it or the American version (in my youth we favoured vodka and tequilla), though I suspect it's a case of great minds thinking alike.

Wholly suburban, it turns out. Off the beaten path for a downtowner like me. Anybody here been? Barbie's 15, boulevard Bouchard Dorval, QC H9S 5X2 7660, boulevard Newman Lasalle, QC H8N 1X8 580, boulevard Saint-Martin ouest Chomedey, QC H7M 3Y2 7850, boulevard Taschereau Brossard, QC J4X 1C2

http://www.out-law.com/php/page.php?page_i...99671&area=news

Just so we're clear here, one participant in this thread unfortunately called it apple wine (assuming the Pinnacle ice cider is what she was referring to, that is). As far as I know, no producers or promoters do. That definition may work for you but it's hardly carved in stone. Check just about any standard English-language dictionary (Merriam-Webster's "the usually fermented juice of a plant product (as a fruit) used as a beverage"). Check the Oxford Companion to Wine ("alcoholic drink made by fermenting the juice of fruits or berries"). Setting aside discussion of your apparent ability to see into the future, I hope you are excluding ice ciders from this sweeping dismissal. If you aren't, then I have to ask: have you ever tasted one of the top-drawer ice ciders from Quebec?

As much as it pains me to say so, my recent experiences jibe with toto2's and wattacetti's. The food has been uneven, with the salads the only invariably outstanding category. The wine list has become weak at the low end (sub-$50), in apparent contradiction of APDC's bistro du peuple vocation. I had noticed fewer service gaffes than in the past, though I see not everyone would agree. A few weeks ago, a couple of good friends — like me, faithful patrons of APDC since its earliest days — chose the restaurant for their birthday dinner. After they described the meal (plutôt décevant is the phrase that stood out), we agreed we'd be giving APDC a pass in the future except during local seafood season. And even then we'll make sure they don't ruin the gorgeous fish with their frustrating habit of stuffing every cavity with fresh tarragon, a treatment that works well with strongly flavoured fish like mackerel but totally overwhelms baby flounders and freshwater perch.

More specifically, Pinnacle is from the Eastern Townships of Quebec, a few miles north of the Vermont border. Sweet but not cloying, in part due to the acidity; slightly syrupy texture; pure and intense apple cidery flavour; long finish. Some find it a bit lacking in the complexity department and for that reason prefer the products of La face cachée de la pomme, especially their high-end Frimas, which gives the best ice wines a run for their money. Both products are widely available in Quebec. For U.S. distributors, e-mail the contacts listed on the respective websites.

You'll find some suggestions here, Maeve: Kids and Food, Need some suggestions for picky eaters

The Rising Sun on Laurier Avenue: Tastet raves about Jun i in today's Voir (the link will work only until the 26th, after which time you'll have to pull up the review from the archives).