Pete Fred

I made a couple of loaves of brioche the other day... One of them got turned into Bostock... It's similar to an almond croissant, a way for bakeries to use up unsold brioche: soak slices with a simple syrup (orange flower water in this instance), spread with almond cream, top with flaked almonds, and bake until golden. It's a combination of crispy, toasty edges, with a soft and cakey topping, and a moist, buttery inside... It's one of my favourite things to make and eat. I don't see it too often in French bakeries. Almond croissants, yes; bostock, no. I suppose I'll just have to carry on making my own.

I took my go-to Cherry Coconut Pistachio Cake to a lunch get-together at the weekend. It was a hit. I was hoping there'd be leftovers, but no such luck. Thankfully, I'd recently stockpiled enough cherries to ride out a nuclear winter... So I elected not to deprive myself... I give most of my bakes away, but this one earns its place in the freezer.

Hmmm, good question. I'm not sure. To me, a mousse contains eggs in some form. In this particular instance, Hervé This' original description of 'chocolate chantilly' seems correct. I think Heston called it a mousse because, as well as the mousse-like texture, English-speakers would know the term, whereas chantilly is a little less familiar.

I've made chocolate chantilly a few times and thought it was quite good. I'm curious why you don't whisk it into a foam, though, as that airiness is what makes it a mousse. You seem to be making a water ganache instead. You may have seen these already, but this and this contain more information. 👍

I had a half bottle of kefir to use up, so swapped it for the buttermilk in the Swirled Jam Cake from Snacking Cakes (Yossy Arefi)... As you can see, the jam mostly sank to the bottom... But it's my own fault. I had similar issues a few months back with another of her cakes and that was fixed by using Greek yoghurt as the substitute (and adding ground almonds). But, hey, can't throw away €1.07 worth of kefir! Anyway, this used my plum and tonka jam, plus a hint of ground cardamom. Overall, it's a nicely textured cake, and I'd make it again with the necessary adjustments. (Although I agree with @Katie Meadowand @ElsieD about the jam stinginess.)

I made the loaf cake version... It was pleasant. In retrospect, it would have been better as a square or round cake so that each mouthful had peanut. Despite most of the peanut butter going into the batter, I couldn't taste it in the actual cake, just cocoa.

I used up the last of my caraway stash on the previously mentioned seed cake... I've never seen caraway in a supermarket here. Hopefully the spice lady at the Saturday market will have some, and I can re-up. 🤞

As the season transitions to Autumn, I made a couple crumbles this week. The first one used up the last dozen or so figs from my tree... The second was apple. I've no idea which variety my trees are, but they were great for eating out-of-hand, and also cooked down nicely... The figs might be finished for another year, but their leaves made another delicious batch of toasted fig leaf ice cream to go with the crumble. I've only recently started making ice cream since picking up a machine for twenty bucks in Lidl, and this week I used a commercial stabiliser for the first time. The results were a bit of a revelation: it really improves the texture and mouthfeel. I was less enamoured of this Apple and Caraway Loaf Cake... The texture wasn't great. Maybe I should've grated the apple more finely. But the distinct lack of apple-y-ness was the most disappointing aspect. It did, however, remind me that caraway seeds are put to much better use in a traditional English seed cake. I've not made one of those in a while, so that's going on the to-do list.

Another bake from Snacking Cakes by Yossy Arefi. This time it's the Salty Caramel Peanut Butter Cake... I didn't think much to this one. The cake itself was ok, if a little dry, but the fudgy caramel icing was not at all to my liking. I'll scrape it off and bin it, and we will never speak of it again.

Not when I woke up this morning I hadn't. However... It was 35C/95F today, so rolling and cutting the dough was an absolute nightmare, hence the rather shonky portioning. Plus my pan was a little smaller than called for, resulting in a snug fit. But no big deal once the buns were turned out. It was a relatively lean dough, but the tangzhong worked well, producing a nice soft bun, and the glaze didn't overly soak into it. I didn't have dark corn syrup so I substituted golden syrup cut with a little black treacle. I've no idea if it tastes the same but I liked the slight bitterness. It was a little gritty in places, though, where the sugar hadn't dissolved well. I'm not sure if that was down to my substitution or maybe differences in sugar. I'll have a think about how to fix that. Next time, as well as tweaking the glaze, I'll alter the process slightly and chill the dough for easier handling. But these sticky buns were good. I much preferred them to Chang's.

Wouldn't you know it, @oli, but we've been here before ... I never did make them again, though. Here's the recipe (I swapped in a brioche-style dough). I must have been on a Sticky Bun quest around that time because a little further up that page are some not too dissimilar Chelsea Buns. I also found a picture on my computer of these Stella Parks Double-Caramel Sticky Buns from a few months previous... I never wrote up the recipe, so I can't have been too impressed. Maybe it's the proofing and cooking of the buns in the sticky glaze (like the Chang buns) that I don't care for. Baking the buns then drowning them in sticky glaze seems to be more my thing.

Joanne Chang's Sticky Sticky Buns (YouTube)... Like me, you may be thinking "ooooooh, they look good".... ...and "can't wait to dive in"... Sadly, they didn't live up to the hype. The brioche dough wasn't as enriched as my usual one, so we were off to a bad start. Then there was so much "goo" that the bottoms (tops) turned more mushy than sticky. And they were achingly sweet and a bit sickly. But apart from that... So, not for me this time. More like Sickly Mushy Buns.

I've such a surplus of plums at the moment, it's ridiculous. It's a bit of a contest between me and the wasps as to who can get more; I may be winning. I check a couple of times a day. Yesterday morning there was about three kilos lying on the ground... I made some plum and tonka jam, and some plum ice cream, then gave the rest to neighbours. A few of today's bounty went into a Plum and Cornmeal Upside-down Cake adapted from a Yossy Arefi recipe (Snacking Cakes)... The fruit is nestled in a sort of caramel, hence the mushy top. In retrospect I should've anticipated the gaps between the plums and pressed in some berries (there's literally an infinite supply of blackberries in the fields around here). I had it with some of the aforementioned ice cream... It was pleasant. The cake was also an opportunity to dip into a bag of fine yellow cornmeal that's been hanging around for a few months since I made this lot... Mexican Sweet Corn Cake on Milk Street. Double-corn Tea Cake by Dorie Greenspan. Cornmeal Buttermilk (Loaf) Cake also by Dorie Greenspan. Hazelnut Chocolate Corn Cake by ?????. (This was probably just a way of polishing off some ricotta and a bag of ground hazelnuts.) I can't remember much about them now. I suspect they were all at least "pleasant" or I wouldn't have bothered writing them up. I think the Milk Street one was the best of the bunch and worth making again, but the recipe seems to be behind a paywall. Anyway, I thought I'd retrospectively post them in case anyone's interested. Finally for today, my fig tree that delivered exactly one (perfect) fig last year has outdone itself this time around. I've had about a dozen fantastic figs so far. They're huge... The half-dozen I grabbed today were perfectly soft and ripe, the skins just starting to split and ooze their sticky juices... There didn't seem much point in messing around incorporating them into anything else, so I simply chopped 'em up with a dollop of Armagnac whipped cream and a drizzle of chestnut honey... Several notches above "pleasant", this one.

A Tom Kerridge recipe for Sticky Toffee Pudding caught my eye in the paper yesterday, mainly because it uses suet, and I'm a sucker for anything suet (obviously eschewing the vegetable kind for the beef variety). Most STPs have baking powder so I was looking forward to a denser sponge, including the generous spike of booze. It was a good cake. However, as you can see, I made a schoolboy error when adding the toffee sauce... Far too little. Quickly remedied, though... More is more in this part of France, so... I would've killed for a scoop of vanilla ice cream but had to make do with crème fraîche instead. First-world problems, and all that. It's a good, fuss-free STP. If you don't have access to suet, there's a very similar one that uses butter.

I collected some rather good plums from one of the trees last night... They went into this Hot Summer Spoon Cake by Anna Stockwell... I had it with a mascarpone chantilly and some of the leftover macerated plums (whose juices included a good glug of moonshine that a neighbour makes 🤫)... It's kinda like the Marian Burros/NYT Plum Torte, except with an almond sponge. I made one last year with peaches and summer berries... I really like this cake. Recommended. A German friend came to visit and brought me some honey from her mum's bees... I'm no bee connoisseur but I've never had honey with this texture before: thick and very smooth, almost like clotted cream. Unfortunately, it wasn't particularly flavourful, just mainly sweet. I thought I might get the most out of it in these Caramelised Honey and Tahini Cookies... I took the honey really dark, but the cookies were disappointing. Too cakey, as well. Also this week I settled something to my own satisfaction that I'd been curious about for a while... I keep reading about the differences between the two, and how some cooks prefer one over the other. I've used both in the past but never had a side-by-side comparison. So I made two batches of creme anglaise... And.... . . . . . . . . Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaand..... . . . . . . . . . . I couldn't tell the difference! If I really, really had to pick one over the other then I'd go with the Tahiti, but I couldn't particularly tell you why. The subtleties, it seems, are beyond my palate. But at least I now know that I'm happy with either. (And eating 750g of Pierre Herme's creme anglaise is absolutely no hardship, let me tell you.)

Funny you should say that. I thought it sounded like I was damning it with faint praise, so I actually looked up the definition before posting... ...and it seemed to fit. You're right, though; I wonder why "pleasant" seems to hint at disappointment? 🤷‍♂️ Anyway, it was a nice cake, but functional, I suppose, rather than something to get excited about. There I go again...

Easy One-Bowl Coffee Cake by Stella Parks... Does what it says on the tin. Pleasant.

Chocolate Cake by Suzy Palatin... Described by Pierre Hermé, no less, as the best chocolate cake in the world. Before you get too excited, it isn't. But it is good, and super simple to make. Weirdly, when he published the recipe (gâteau au chocolat Suzy) he tweaked the ingredients and method (chefs, huh? 🙄) but I stick with the original. I like it a touch warm for a lighter texture; at room temperature it's firmer and fudgier. (Fridge-cold totally ruins it, by the way.) I had it for lunch with some whipped cream and cherries... (I couldn't get the cream to whip properly, sadly, because a) French cream is rubbish, and b) it's a hundred degrees at the moment! Rookie error not having any crème fraîche in the house.)

I think the turmeric was there as much for the colour as anything else. It’s been a couple of months… I can’t remember. 🥴

I made Stella Parks' Levain Bakery-style Chocolate Chip Cookie knock-off... I only had dark brown sugar to hand, hence the somewhat dark appearance. I've never had the original, so I've no idea how close it is, but I was impressed. It's kind of cookie-crunchy on the outside, and light and cakey inside. It's also huge, weighing-in at 175g (6 oz).... For chocolate chip cookie fans, the Basic, Great Chocolate Chip Cookie by Tara O'Brady is good... And if you have a bag of spelt flour looking for an excuse, then the Spelt Walnut CCC by Janice Lawandi is a good way to use it up... I've also recently enjoyed the Lemon Square Cookies by Anita Jaisinghani... These vegan cookies <shudders> use coconut oil, mashed avocado, and rice flour to surprisingly good effect and are flavoured with turmeric and ground mace, as well as the lemon. Ranger cookies were a new one to me... I really liked these. (The oldest recipe seems to go back to the Depression era.) And one last, honourable mention for the No-Bake Chocolate Peanut Butter Cookie by Scott Peacock... I believe these are also known as preacher cookies: if the preacher turned up unexpectedly at your house, these unassuming treats could be on the table in minutes. Nice! I came across them when my oven was out of action for a week or two, and I was pleasantly surprised how well they worked.

Indeed. I ate a fruit called a brugnon over the weekend and it absolutely blew my socks off. The internet says it's a type of nectarine, but it was better than any nectarine or peach I've ever had. They were the last half-dozen sorry-looking ones about to wither on a friend's tree, so unfortunately that supply is a bust until next year. I'll be keeping an eye out at the farmers' market for more.

Another tarte aux mirabelles... But this time I blind-baked the pastry and added a clafoutis-type batter... No soggy bottom with this one. I'm undecided on plain or with cream. Each has it merits. I will definitely make more next year (if the neighbour donates the plums).

They were good out of hand. I took about 5 kg (10 lbs) so I’ll probably munch a few and give the rest to friends. 👍

I still have a lot to learn about French plums. The yellow ones a few posts back were not mirabelles as I thought, just, errrrrr, yellow plums. I now know this because my neighbour let me raid her mirabelle tree... I thought I'd have a crack at tarte aux mirabelles... It did not turn out as I had hoped. The basic recipe: line a ring with pastry, fill with plums, bake for an hour. Simple. I expected the plums would release a fair amount of juice so threw in some ground almonds on the bottom as insurance. But that didn't make any difference, it was just a soggy mush underneath. All the recipes I looked at didn't bother blind baking the pastry, and many also included a light custard, adding even more moisture, so I'm a little puzzled how it could turn out any different. But all was not lost. I scraped off the roasted plums and enjoyed them on their own...

The Whipped Cream Cake from King Arthur was not what I had hoped for... The filling layer largely sank and settled on the bottom... I often have problems with American recipes, presumably down to subtle ingredient differences, so no harm, no foul. My main issue was that the flavour profile was mostly just sweet, with the filling and topping not bringing much to the party. I already have a recipe for Drømmekage, so this one won't be elbowing it aside. Having said all that, the main reason for making this was the intriguing use of whipped cream in place of butter or oil. And in this aspect I thought it was quite successful. The cake had a light, fluffy texture that I really liked. King Arthur say that traditionally this cake is served plain with just a dusting of icing sugar. You can mark me a traditionalist, then. The plum trees that I thought were going to deliver Reine Claude (greengage) actually turned out to be mirabelles. Like the last lot they weren't particularly great as eating plums but it seemed a waste to let them wither so I filled a tub anyway... ...and cooked down a few into a compote with a hint of tonka, my current spice du jour... I was pleasantly surprised; it was nice. I'll give away that box of mirabelles, but I might go back for more and fill a few freezer bags with some of that compote. But, hands down, the best thing I made this weekend was David Lebovitz's Chocolate Sorbet... Perhaps not the most Instagram-perfect thing you'll see today but, Oh Lordy, great texture and flavour. Highly recommended.