Judith Gebhart

December 20, 2005

After numerous visits to Can Roca over the years and watching them fine tune their cuisine and their overall style mature, i feel that it is the lack of a world class room and ambiance that prevents los hermanos Roca from their third macaron. It would not surprise me that after the move to their new digs in downtown Gerona next year, it will prove to be the missing piece in the equation.
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On the other hand, Blumenthal seemed to have been informed by a Michelin inspector that it would be wise not to move to another, more lucurious place. So I don't know whether the ambiance at Can Roca is the main reason. It was suggested earlier that the Roca brothers haven't been in the possession of their two stars long enough to deserve already their third.
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We returned again to Can Roca this year with great anticipation; hoping that even more menu items would be as compelling and inventive as we had experienced two and three years ago.

We enjoyed the meal and rated it highly; we did not find it a three star experience!!

We were seated, as we have always been, in the front area of the restaurant; although we wished to experience the back room overlooking a garden area, our request has never been satisfied. The aesthetics of the dining experience are always less important than the menu's content. We ordered again the tasting menu and specifically requested, via email, the cepe ice cream which was delicious as it had been on an earlier visit.

There is no doubt about the Roca brothers' singular and collective talent. It is, in our opinion given our Nov. 2005 visit, that the brothers are stalled or frozen in their culinary approach. We found little to excite our collective palates'. The menu did nothing to champion their culinary acumen. We would not rate their current work as Michelin 3 star material. I donnot think that Michelin is the be all end of all all guides. I only use it as a rating guide and probably not the best. Gualt Millau rates few Spanish restaurants. Nevertheless, we cannot extol the virtues of Can Roca's culinary talents. They continue to offer excellent fare. They were in the vanguard but we think they are exhausted or resting on their laurels. We are no longer energized by their efforts. We report this with a heavy heart, Judith Gebhart

December 16, 2005

We have yet to publish our 2005 October/November Spanish trip which included the Can Roca brothers; this culinary destination which we visited many times before our last return trip in Fall 2005.

We do not support Pedro's assessment. Can Roca is a marvelous restaurant which has promised and executed some exciting dishes for the diner. It still offers some exciting dishes. After our last 2005, Fall visit, we do not agree that it is a three star expereince. We will be more specific in our egullet later response which we will report before the New Year. Judith Gebhart

December 16, 2005

How about Ovic? It's location is not far from Cinq Sentis. It is a promising Barcelona luncheon and maybe dinner location. We have yet to report our Barcelona Fall stay which included this modern, fairly new Barcelona restaurant.

If anyone has tried this tiny, seemingly new spot it would be welcome to hear about their experience. Our one time luncheon must be left to our more comprehensive report which is forthcoming. We found the food enjoyable and noteworthy. Any reports? Judith Gebhart

December 15, 2005

SCHWA!! A wonderful restaurant that is a gem of a find. Every report in this forum echoes my kudos for this amazing dining experience. This tiny, superb dining spot is unique in Chicago. The chef has enormous talent and can challenge the best of Chicago's more celebrated chefs.

Michael is one of the most adventuresome , creative chefs we have encountered. Our opinion is that Schwa should become a home for food lovers who are wine and food savvy people. This UNIQUE destination is without equal in CHicago. We will be champions of Schwa's enduring, ongoing abilities. Thank you Michael for a marvelous meal that has no equal in Chicago. You are a unique talent that has yet to be truly appreciated. Your advocate, Judith Gebhart

December 11, 2005

Dear Victor: You are a celebrated mycologist and an informed wine expert. I bow to your expertise!! Thank you for your informed posts. Gratefully, Judith Gebhart

December 8, 2005

What is the Spanish name for lepista nuda?
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Pie azul (blue feet)
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Rogelio: Your response is most illuminating. FOr the American forager, the Lepista nuda is a violet tinted mushroom. The cap is that color. It is unnmistakenly identified in the field with those aforementioned colors. Pie azul is close but not exact enough; in fact why are the "feet" blue? Please explain. Judith Gebhart
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I have never experienced the L. personata in the field in the USA. IT may exist but not in my 40 years of foraging. L. nuda is not an elegant mushroom favorite. I presume that L. personata is mild flavored as well. THank you Victor for your input. I am grateful. Judith Gebhart

December 6, 2005

What is the Spanish name for lepista nuda?
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Pie azul (blue feet)
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Rogelio: Your response is most illuminating. FOr the American forager, the Lepista nuda is a violet tinted mushroom. The cap is that color. It is unnmistakenly identified in the field with those aforementioned colors. Pie azul is close but not exact enough; in fact why are the "feet" blue? Please explain. Judith Gebhart

November 26, 2005

Could it have been Sanford D’Amato? He is one of the more popular chefs from Milwaukee.
http://www.sanfordrestaurant.com/
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Looks like that's it. So how is Sanford?
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We were repeated customers of Sanford until our last visit when Sanford returned to his restaurant and reclaimed his menu. This was for us a devastating disappointment. We will never return to Sanford and lament the loss of the prior chef. Milwaukee had a tiny window of excellence with Sanfords prior chef.

Today, the heart of it's creativity has been excised. What a misfortune. Milwaukee has a world wide, magnificent art musee. Chicago never had such a remarkable museum.

We don't think that Milwaukee understands their international position. If you keep a totally provincial food approach, you will deter international visitors. We lament this food reality. We also realize that no where in the mid-west is there a museum of such quality as Calatrava's contirbutiion.

As a Chicagoan, we hope that Milwaukee employs an exceptional chef AT LAST. We will return for the museum. Keep us happy with a great restaurant. Judith Gebhart

November 24, 2005

I'd rather wait a little. I've heard some mixed reports, Luis.
John: No, he hasn't been to El Bulli. That's his saving grace.
If you analyze the places where he's trained you'll get the idea of where this guy is coming from: Pic/Waterside Inn/Can Roca/Can Fabes/Don Alfonso 1890 means, basically: "I don't recoil from modern techniques and textures and a few exotic ingredients, but what I really take pride in is in offering you woodcock as it should be done and ten different types of wild mushrooms." And that's OK with me.
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Victor: I couldn't resist: "And that's OKAY with me too!!" What a tasting delight!! Judith Gebhart

November 24, 2005

Etxebarri has never been included in the Michelin guide, so at least they're consistent. Many outstanding Spanish restaurants, like Sacha in Madrid, are likewise totally absent from the pages of this guide.
The elevation to one-star status of La Costa in southeastern Spain's Almería province is yet more proof of Michelin's total inconsistency. This is a very fine seafood restaurant, which I rated 15/20 for El Mundo, but why one star here and none for El Puerto in Santander or Combarro in Madrid, which are just as good if not better in that same style? Who knows what makes these strange 'inspectors' and their French bosses tick...
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Victor your recollection is inaccurate. Michelin mentioned Etxebarri in the Spain -Portugal 2003 guide. They dismissed Etxebarri as a restaurant worthy of only two spoons in black. In 2004, Michelin wiped Etxebarri off the culinary map.

WHY?? Michelin will never address their decisions; they also NEVER address any diner's opinion expressed by letter.

Victor your protest about Madrid restaurants denied acknowledgment by Michelin is heeded. I will put your recommendations on file for our next Madrid trip. If it wasn't for eGullet, the international diner would never find his/her way via Michelin. This reality is maddening for those diners entirely dependent on the Michelin guide. Judith Gebhart

November 23, 2005

Carme Ruscalleda's Sant Pau absolutely and unreservedly merits a third star. When I went there at the end of October, I found both the food and service almost perfect, and, in my opinion, it has an edge over both Arzak and Berasategui. I've never been to Can Fabes or Can Roca, so I cannot compare with either of these two. I agree with John's observation that there is a certain similarity in style between Ruscalleda and Keller. I found the savoury dishes at Sant Pau and the French laundry equally well balanced in terms of texture and composition of flavours. I would assert, though, that the desserts at Sant Pau are more inspired.
See also the review of Sant Pau that I posted a couple of weeks ago.
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I am certainly supportive of any Michelin awarded stars to any Spanish chef. Each and every award is deserved.

Too many Spanish chefs have been overlooked by Michelin. One glaring example is Extebarri. THe Michelin 2005 guide fails to mention this extraordinary chef. What a unthinkable omission. Judith Gebhart

October 21, 2005

It won't be a mere "supervision". Koerper has moved to Mas Passamaner - lock, stock and barrel.
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Reviewing your message, Victor, about certain German chefs failing to connect with locals.... Is Koerper one of the more successful German chefs? Have you sampled his menu at Girasol? More input would be helpful about his work, if you know it. Thanking you in advance. Judith Gebhart

October 19, 2005

Victor: Having his personal supervision will definetely do magic for Mas Passamaner; stayed there in May withthe family, and because of our baby girl we had all our dinners at the restaurant which tried hard but didn't quite make it, and not enough variety in presentation and dishes for three consecutive dinners... They were extremely good with teh kids, though..
Slightly OT:
Any rec's for best wine shops in Palma or where to find the best pata negra at a favourable price (Sanchez Romero de Caravajall)? Not Club de Gourmet at El Corte Ingles, but any other centrally located venue will be great!
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Dear Viking: This sub-thread about Mas Passamaner and Victor's report that Girasol's chef will be running the kitchen or heavily influencing the food at the Gigantea's dining room is another plus for us as we anticipate our visit to this establishment.

We booked this hotel primarily for our Modernista architectural interests. We will visit Mas Passamaner in our upcoming late October and November, 2005 trip to Spain. We never dreamed it might be an equally desirable culinary destination. We are ecstatic about the presence of Girasol's chef's influence. I know this is a bit off topic but can you elaborate on why YOU chose to visit Mas Passamaner in the first place? Thanking you and Victor for your comments; I am interested in both this sub-thread and the virtues of Mallorca which is on our list for a future visit. Thanks for the good news. Judith Gebhart

October 16, 2005

Steve: Re magazines, Sobremesa is IMHO the best food publication; I write for Sibaritas (which is more wine-oriented), so it wouldn't be appropriate for me to rate it!
Re books, Marimar Torres' books on Spanish and Catalan recipes, written for the American public, are very useful. There are a zillion good cookbooks in Spanish; the paperback '1080 Recetas de Cocina' by Simone Ortega is the most popular cookbook ever in Spain. The various books by El Bulli's Ferran Adrià are iconic publications - much discussed already on eGullet.
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Dear Victor: FOr those of us that are not Spanish, I must suggest an electric contemporary Spanish magazine: Gourmetour. This periodical is a well written and informative Spanish magazine for foreigners, that reports about the current Spanish chefs, culinary trends and food essays. We find it very useful. We have come to recognise that Spanish visitors are as educated about aspects of Spanish cusines and culture as any native. OUr task is to write about them intelligently. Judith Gebhart

October 15, 2005

The question with Andoni and Mugaritz is that he is to be understood and not only tasted. I know it's a complicated proposition, but worth the effort. In my opinion he is the best chef in Spain today, the only one able to go ahead beyond Adriá, using the best technology can provide but hidding it in the kitchen and showing only a kind of nature renatured, a concept so precious to Merleau-Ponty. Andoni is a philosopher in the kitchen, and not easy to give pleasure, but when you understand him it's more than a meal, it's sublime.
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I have to agree with the all of the above reviewer. I am already an Andoni supporter. I continue to be. I fail to comprehend anyone else on eGullet who refutes this extraordinary culinary talent. I welcome other eGulleteers who dispute Andon'is enormous talent. We will revisit him again and again. JUst like we will return to El Bulli, Michel Bras: and all the exceptional culinary destinations in Europe. THe remarkable talent of this young chef is exceptional!! Judith Gebhart

October 3, 2005

Vedat, let me try to offer you something about Ca'Sento, and yes, I agree about Rogelio's taste in food. On the basis of the small sampling we have of diners in Spain, I will say that gastronomy in Spain is thriving not simply because there are talented chefs, but because, if our sampling is at all representative, there are those who really appreciate food. At any rate, I have considered myself fortunate to have their advice and I don't discount a particular Spanish gastronome approaching my age either.
I'm off to Italy on Monday and preoccupied with that. I also regret to say that we have no real notes on our meal at Ca'Sento, simply a list of the dishes we had. We left the restaurant on a real high, although the meal got off on a bad footing as we arrived too early, before they opened and they didn't have a cava by the glass. Often that's enough to ruin a meal. That with the food came an abrupt turn around is very much to their credit. The problem in relating details is that feeling so good, we decided to walk to the Calatrava museum complex on a hot day with no shade to be found along the path. We proceeded to spent a long time in the surrounding park taking photographs of the buildings and were exhausted by the time we got back to our hotel. Hence we didn't do anything about expanding our brief notes or posting about the meal while it was fresh in our minds.
I distinctly recall wanting to take the tasting menu, but finding it missing some dish we wanted. At that point, taking advantage of Mrs. B's fluency in Spanish, we sort of negotiated a menu of courses, half courses and split courses. This became yet another lesson of how to get the most out of a good restaurant, if you're lucky. If Sento (Vicente) seemed annoyed at our early arrival and disappointment at not being able to have a glass of cava, his manner turned increasingly sympathetic as we asked for favors and pestered him about which shellfish to order, asked if could we split this dish or that dish and said we couldn't eat in Valencia without a rice dish. His suggestions came flying back, often in the form of you must have this with never an argument from us, just a bit of negotiating. That at least once he disappeared into the kitchen to return and tell us the chef, his son, (it's a familiy affair, mom is also in the kitchen) said our menu was a bit unbalanced, increased our admiration. You will probably appreciate that that the only miscommunication was that we thought the chef was changing a dish, whereas he was adding one. No harm there and no argument after we had eaten both dishes. We were glad to have given our assent. All of this set the mood for our appreciation.
Our list of courses are in Spanglish, or course, and I present them as such with misspellings and partial translations. Mrs. B was good enough to enter them into the computer. I will be interested in hearing your comments on the freshness and quality of the raw materials should you choose Ca'Sento.
Valencia 30 April 2004 Ca'Sento

Egg yolk (partridge) in caramel, Foie gras between caramel sheets (amuses)
There was an attempt to discuss that egg yolk, but I appeared to touch on sensitive grounds and gave it up. At any rate, this version was superbly crafted. Perhaps more delicately formed than the other.
We don't seem to have a photograph of the elusive
Espardeynes, a la plancha with olive oil and garlic (minced garlic, mildly flavoring the dish)

Ostras envueltas en acelga y manita de cerdo con garbanzos
Poached oyster wrapped in Swiss chard. Pig's foot was mainly for texture.

Ventresca de atun (con gazpacho?) soy sauce and minced green and red peppers, etc.

Cigala cooked under a crust of salt and egg white

Lubina (crisp skin) with clam, chipperones and pasta.

Arroz pancha con gambita de playa

Close up of the rice which is finished on a plancha where it froms a crust that is scraped off in a curl with the rice nicely inside it's own shell. What can I say? I am a sucker for base foods. I like starch. I like it when a professional chef turns his hand to home cooking, cuisine grandmère or the like. Rice wasn't much a part of my background, but Mrs. B tells me her family fought for the pegao (pegado) or the rice that stuck to the bottom of the pan. Raúl Aleixandre, the chef, does a nice riff by intentionally forming a skin. The rice inside of course was special as well.

Pre-dessert mint gelee with orange ice cream

Pear pastry with poire williams sorbet

Pineapple slices (sheets), pineapple gelee, coconut ice cream.
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Bux: I should have reported that our October journey will include our second visit to Ca Sento. We both were entralled with the magic that we experienced dining at this finest Valencia fish/seafood restaurant. I had hoped you recalled our Valencia experience which was dashed by our roadside robbery earlier this year. Our 2005 Fall visit will finally allow us to visit El Poblet and other restaurants in the vicinity. The robbery took all our photos and notes for that visit which we will always regret and miss. I am sorry that my response to Vedat was less than stellar. Vedat, please forgive my remarks that sullied your response to this thread. I have great respect for your informed responses to many eGullet issues and your viewpoint is most welcome and appreciated. My gratitude, Judith Gebhart

September 28, 2005

Any input about chefs in Cataluyna for wild mushrooms and game dishes? We know and value both Can Fabes and Ca l'Enric! Other suggestions from the countryside are most appreciated.

Also, Valencia will be another culinary destination. Vinaros is famous for their prawns. An excellent seafood spot that is in Vinaros, or nearby such as Benicarlo or Peniscola? Any commentary before October 20, 2005 will be very welcome!

September 22, 2005

There shoud be a new topic called Who's your least favorite chef in Vancouver. I think that would be a whole lot funnier and interesting.
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Yeah. No doubt !.
Has that Doug Psaltis thread got ya all worked up and cynical ?
* puts hand on the pass *
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I usually read with relish the Canada: Vancouver and BC et al but rarely comment. We visit BC and Vancouver as often as we can. My vote is for Tojo of Tojo's. We have never been disappointed.

We love Rob Feenie's work, Rain City Grill and others. Returing again to Vancouver we will run to Tojo's.

September 9, 2005

Does anyone have experience with OVIC? Would love to know. Judith Gebhart

September 7, 2005

After three days Vancouver dining highlighted by the Feenie’s crab maki happy face, A&W (my Teen Burger was nicely assembled and complemented the diet root beer ) and the delights of the Vancouver General Hospital cafeteria, it was time to turn things around. Lumière – gun-shy after Feenie’s. West – full. Tojo’s – space available for omakase. Woo!
Once I finished my afternoon of watching little plastic pots be filled, I parked my POS rental Impala at the Holiday Inn and headed up to the second floor. I had never eaten there before because Tojo’s was either fully booked or closed during previous trips to YVR. However, it’s definitely the experience.
Loud boisterous greeting reminiscent of the noodle bar scene from Tampopo. I was very cordially (and formally) welcomed by the maitresse d’hotel and brought to sit at the middle of the sushi bar. Tojo Hidekazu is very friendly but I thought it was interesting he still has to tell clientele that everything is made at the premises and without MSG. Made me wonder what kind of troglodytes would be sitting beside me during the evening, but I put that aside and settled in.
Marinated tuna sashimi.
Organic shiitake mushroom with scallop.
Smoked sablefish en papillote.
Chuutoro nigiri (2 pieces).
Golden Roll (3 pieces).
Unagi suinomono (I kick myself for taking a blurred photo).
Hamachi and tai nigiri.
Halibut cheek and chanterelles.
A "palate cleanser".
Certainly the best two hours I've ever spent in YVR - you Vancouverites are lucky that he's so accessible to you.
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We have been Tojo fans for many years. We believe that he is the most talented chef in Vancouver; our opinion has been bolstered by our last visit when neither Lumiere or any other chef could compete with this most talented Japanese trained Vancouver talent. We will return to him again and again. Unfortunately we are based in Chicago; so Tojo is not our neighborhood destination. We will return as often as possible. He is a culinary treasure. Judith Gebhart

August 20, 2005

Judith: I'm sorry to say that my two last visits to Moo in February and April 2005 duplicated your visit. On the latter occasion I was hosting a group of colleagues and friends and the service was totally off any pitch. The waiters, maitre d' and bartenders have the unique ability to act busy whilst achieving and doing absolutely nothing... After 1,5 hours we had received our first appetizer, had been proposed the wrong wine 3 times and had to beg for some bread...
This promoted me to pull the maitre d' aside and politely in Spanish suggest to him that both service and attitude left rather much to be desired, at the same time pointing out the flaws I had experienced on this and former occasions...
The maitre took our point and from there on in the service improved to such an extent that my colleagues whispered whether I had any connections with the mafia..:-)
Alas: The food: Less than inspired, and as mentioned before, its sibling further north provides a far better experience.
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It is always disappointing news to learn that a deserved chef has failed to successfully connect in another place specifically El Celler de Can Roca in Girona to the Hotel Omm in Barcelona. We always want the fine chefs to transport their culinary wisdom to other venues. The moral of the tale is revisit the Roca brothers marvelous Girona establishment. Avoid the Barcelona satellite. THanks for another much needed culinary assessment. Judith Gebhart

August 18, 2005

Hello, Judith, and thank you for your MARVELLOUS report.
Two years ago, me and my wife, went to Catalonia, and we eat at Alkimia, Hisop, Hispania, Les Cols and El Celler de Can Roca. For us, the best of all was the last, but we enjoy all of then, except L'Hisop. In our visit, the staff was very slow, and the menu didn´t surprise us. Only the cheeses was fantastic.
Alkimia had very good food, but we didn´t found "soul"
But Les Cols was very pleasant, with these marvellous chairs and tables, the very good servers (including Fina`s husband), and a very reasonable menu, with so many well-thinked dishes. We really enjoyed it so much.
This year we planed to be at september, and we want to go to Roig Rubi and Moo..... do you know some of these???
Thank you.
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Hello Tonalin: Thanks for the considered feedback. We have always been El Celler de Can Roca fans and we rate it very highly. My recent post was to explore the marvelous Catalan restaurants that rarely seem (to me) to get the acclaim they deserve.

Sorry to hear about your negative experience at Hisop. It wasn't our experience. Every restaurant has difficulties that negatively impact the diner; I would like to think that your experience at Hisop was just that--a bad day/meal.

I have no experience with Roig Rubi. Sorry I cannot offer an opinion.

We have visited Moo. I have already posted a response to our 2004 dining experience sometime ago. We visited Moo Jan 2004, not long after it opened. It is a lovely space and the menu was/is the consulting product of the very talented Roca brothers of Girona. The menu captured the parfums of his 2001 menu--in fact it was a duplication of the 2001 fare offered in El Celler de Can Roca's menu in Girona. It was for us a pale imitation; we found the staff uninformed and disinterested in the consulting chefs talents. We would not return because it failed to meet the standards of the Girona home base restaurant which is exceptional. The question is, has the restaurant improved since last year? Is the staff better educated? Do the Roca brothers continue to exert their culinary vision with greater success? We certainly hope so. We have not returned to Moo since our first visit. I don't have the answer as of today. I would give it a try and urge that you report your impression to eGullet. I would like to know as I am sure would others. With candor, Judith

August 15, 2005

I will still give the edge to France for cheese.
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Mmmm... We'll have to do a rundown of the current Spanish cheese scene when you're here next! It might change your mind!
That said , I've just returned from a grueling Madrid-northern Portugal-Manchuela-Madrid drive, 750 miles in one day (including six hours' sleep...), half of it with my station wagon jam-packed with 1,400 grape vines ready to be planted. Grueling. But - here's the point - at least I'm coming back with a neat prize - an artisanal, unpasteurized soft ewes' milk cheese I bought at Macedo de Cavaleiros today. These little devils are good enough to be endorsed by both Frenchmen and Spaniards...
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Thank you Victor. This is the most exciting cheese information I have encountered on eGullet. Can you expand on this marvelous find? Please let us know where we can purchase this extraordinary cheese product? Many thanks, Judith Gebhart

August 14, 2005

Judith, I am coming to this post late as I wanted to allow a good stretch of quiet time to read it. Actually absorbing all of the wonderful detail you have provided (both culinary and architectural) is going to take a lot longer!
Just one question, and I hope you don't think it is rude: How do you pace yourself for so many overwhelming meals?
And thank you so much for this great post.
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Thank you for your interest. You do raise a great question. We have both decided that we deserve one great meal per day. We try to walk 2-3 miles before our main meal. We also urge the various known cooks that welcome our visit that we have the tiniest portions possible for our tasting menu. I must admit that on occasion we are so enarmored of the superlative menu, that we fail to achieve our perfect balance. When we exceed our balance, we cut back accordingly. We eat very little. Hope this is helpful. It is certainly a problem which we both regard as a true issue that troubles us when travelling anywhere in the world; we want to eat enough but not too much. A delicate balance that only exercise can solve. Judith

July 20, 2005

Judith - thank you for sharing this wonderful gastronomic journey with us! I have two questions:
First, you mentioned having cod with cock's crest at Les Cols. I have never eaten cock's crest before but recall seeing it on a Ducasse recipe prepared deep fried. How was it prepared when you had it?
Second, I am very intrigued by the idea of "monkfish confit" which you had at Echaurren. Would you mind telling us more about it?
And thank you for your notes on Akelare
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I also appreciate your support for my rather long report. You must know that this for us both was our first experience with cocks comb/ crest. Looking over my notes and a picture of the dish, it seemed quite simply a Catalan traditional recipe, somewhat updated. The cock's comb was mildly gelationous. slightly sweet ( as in chicken flavor) and a subtle addition to this typical Catalan traditional dish. The cod was perfectly cooked and the crest/ comb was a nice flavor combination. I have no way of knowing what is a good cock crest/comb recipe. Frankly, the Ducasse rendition of a fried cocks comb makes sense--in culinary terms. The texture of a cocks comb without frying is soft.

Now the Echaurren menu which included the Rape confidado which is a monkfish confit in a puree of chickpea clarified broth was delicious. I think the use of confidado or confit is a conceit or misnomer. IMO. I studied the picture of this dish and it's hefty piece of monkfish in a clear broth of chickpeas with a tiny accent of piquillos peppers with a scallion draped over the monk fish fillet. This is an accurate description of this dish.

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