Carema

A swirly nose of vanilla and cassis promises much but... In the mouth an avalanche of disappointment as this 13.9%, overoaked beeatch of a Pinot delivers a lot of alcohol but I ask you, "Where is the mid palate, where is the finish?" I adore Siduri, the Santa Lucia Highlands Stuff is brilliant. Night Manager says, " empty promises from the nose of lush cherries raspberries and earth, but tastes of I do not want to say thin booze, is that appropriate?" yes it is appropriate. NM yes it is. PS we were so boozed up we spelled Oregon wrong.

I believe too there is some Ici La Bas with an Oregon designation if I am not on crack tonight. I have always liked these pinots, with their very American, bright personalities, kinda like cheerleaders who read Proust.

I think reading a book by Patrick Kuh..."the last days of haute cuisine" should shed some light upon this topic. Both J & A are important: her for her unflagging loyalty to good ingredients, J for his intellectualism and bringing the concept of terroir back to the US of A. I am not necessarily a Towers fan, and am necessarily a Waters fan, but both deserve their places. J's attempt at Stars in seattle was an unmitigated joke, her restaurant still reigns supreme in Berkeley. No matter how you slice it, it still comes up vinaigrette versus sauce and Italy versus France.

FJ: It is Magari I think. Black triangley label. They also have a blueberry pie meets tannin meets acid, the Promis which incorporates a little syrah. I have held for awhile now that Gaja's tuscan stuff is very exciting and new and intense and wonderful. The Sugarille brunello (1997) is not a bad thing either. I am with you on the Lamborghini stuff- such short uninviting finishes (where the hell did it go???). In Chicago too all summer it has been raining. Our cucumbers are the size of rolling pins and we cannot pick them fast enough. Tonight the air is ripe with dark stormy clouds, mosquitoes carrying the west Nile virus and humidity. The neighborhood skunk has been quite active. I keep meaning to bring home a bottle of the Domaine Tempier Bandol rouge to compare scents...

Strange koinkydink- heavy wine drinkers and meat eaters are rarely ever sick..... when I was a vegetarian (long time ago) I was always ill. Now I never am. And I run the candle lit at both ends always. hmmmmmm

A few years back I purchased a little contraption called a Neti Lota pot. It is a ceramic UFO looking things. You mix a saltwater soltuion (clean good sea salt and you are in charge of the salinity) and you tip your head so a gentle stream flows through the nasal passages. I am a sufferer of allergies to the extreme, and am also "reverse wired" (cannot take the drugs). The NL pot helped but it was when I elimated most wheat from my diet that my sinuses really cleared up. At first I was despondent, no hearty chunks of bread, no delicious pasta. But there is a world of grain out there amazing and vast. Plus now I can smell all summer long. This helps when you are a merchant du vin. As for the smell of salt, if you do the flush before bed, unless you are tasting and evaluating all night long, it does not affect your choices.

I think I lost it with Gastro at the time they released the issue with a full exploration of "clay eating". And while the exploration of various "picas" was completely fascinating for about five seconds I found myself drooling asleep. Now as a sommelier I do often lick rocks etc. but that was a little too much. I guess I like a shred of sentimentalism in my food writing or furthermore writing that actually broaches the subject of food, not rehashed, academic writing so obscure it could not possibly be published anywhere else. A linear thematic thread to grasp now and again would be quite lovely although apparently the editors at Gast would wholeheartedly not agree with me. In any event I ceased to seek the mag out at the newstand. The only thing wonderful about the magazine is that in one issue they did confirm that a diet of potatoes and cheese was, truly most nutritionally sound. God bless the Swiss!!!!!

Perhaps there will be a "better bouquet" derived from such a hot summer in Germany. But it will be a disaster for acid. Which is really the reason we return to Riesling again and again, isn't it? Sounds like icky old 1995. A hot summer does not make a great vintage. Just a sloppy alcoholic one. Hopefully everyone is dropping fruit in unprecedented clusters.

JJ has long been one of our favorite producers. The clarity, delicacy and concentration present in these wines is always astounding; esp those from URZ WURZ. A few months ago a gentleman and I decanted the Spatlese from URZ WURZ 2001 and spooned globs of epoisse into our mouths. That was a nice pairing.

There you go. Luis Pato is doing some exciting work in Portugal. His Baga that retails for about 11 bucks kicks butt on every level. I also have found a little wine from Estramadura (Il Cortello) that sells for 8 bucks. We cannot keep it in stock. You live in Seattle, The Spanish Table rocks and if you go up the street to Pike and Western Wines they will order anything for you. I do not know what the deal with Seattle and Italian wines is either. Maybe the acidity is too much. I do not know. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano seems perfect for a rainy day, watching the azaleas stretch out their sloppy hand-sized blooms and feeling sad for no particular reason at all.

Listen kids- you pay to play. If you want the minimum mark up, start your own formidable cellar, knead the bread yourselves, break four egg yolks into a well of flour..... You can have ethereal unreal only read about in books, encyclopediac experiences. But usually it will cost you. Getting comped is a beautiful wonderful thing- I see it less and less as restaurants get newer and newer. Sommeliers & Car salespeople, as well as the ladies (and gentlemen) in Nordstrom's lingerie & shoe Departments all basically have the same job. If you are on commision (and many of us are) it is to your advantage to sell as much as possible. It is all commerce. Selling DRC to a man who wants the best PN is foolish: the best wine sales people figure out what it is that people truly want whether it is Lambrusco or Krug, KJ or Peter Michael. If you choose to dine with Ducasse, give your credit card a valium and enjoy the ride!

Some other things to consider: the majority of "DOC"s in Italy were regulated finally at about the same time MLK was assasinated. This hardly qualifies as tradition. I think this dicussion has grown beyond just Tuscany but perhaps IGTs in general. There would be no Kurni if in the Marches only DOC "tradition" was being heeded. Also DOC regulations had as much to do with fiscal concerns as well as quality (why perhaps Veneto and Emilia Romagna became the disco, high yielding whores of the 1970s). At one time the most coveted of Bordeaux were pink, Nebbiolo was sweet as hell and most wine was fortified with honey. Tradition is meant to be broken. Yes, at this time we are going through a particularly dismal moment, everything having a quantified score attached, and the leader of the pack being a man from Texas who prefers high amounts of glycerol and an aroma heavy in vanilla, blueberry and cassis. I think in the Veneto it has become essential to move beyond the IGT to make decent wine. Super Tuscan is a media term: the evolution of winemaking trudges forward.

The other night I dined in a restaurant that listed Carmignano as a "super-Tuscan". There are arguments made that some sort of Cabernet S was growing there during the time of the Medicis. I have also read that the cabernet in Carmignano came from lafite in the 1970s. Never the less it seems as if the term Super Tuscan has morphed into meaning anything with Cab in the blend. In an unrelated incident I had the displeasure of opening a bottle of Livio Sassetti's Fila De Seta 1996 (75% Sangiovese grosso, 25% cabernet Sauvignon aged in Allier barrique). I am a fan of the Sassetti Brunellos, both Livio and Angelo. Livio's Seta 1996 has died a brown fizzy death while his brother Angelo's Brunello from the same vintage has held up (albeit not a powerhouse but alive and delicious). And it was not an off bottle because we opened three. I do not know. That is just my three cents worth.

I would kill for a Fat Tire. Can't get it in Michigan. Went to Missouri last week and got my fill. I heard a rumor that New Belgium will not ship thier beer more than 3 states away. Anyone know? I found a Fat Tire hiding in the fridge at my aunt's house in Michigan last week. I'll bet they brought it in from Montana. I left a Bell's Oberon in its place and then I drank the Fat Tire. I felt guilty. Then, a couple days later, I noticed there were several cases of Fat Tire in their basement. Gone was the guilt, and I drank the Oberon. I think it is a Mississippi River thing. I heard that anyway when I tried to order it for the store (wrong side of the river apparently in IL). The clown that lives upstairs from the shop supposedly will pay big bucks for it (so he says). Wheaty things make me sneeze so there is always a mess of beer in my fridge. But the other day I tasted something that made me happy, Old Suffolk Vintage Ale. I did not spit and then I sneezed four times. But it was worth it.

Beans we will get you your Aubry yet!

Welcome to the 2000 vintage- confusing and tricky as hell!

I do know the glasses were in fact Spiegelau. The champagne flutes were Riedel.

Carema, the only person taking notes did not see that that was merlot. That was so not like a Merlot. Phew!!!!!!! And we have some issues arising on whether or not the Mauro was a Priorat (I thought that is what klinger told us) will edit if need beee ciao...........

What began as a tedious financial meeting ended turning into a tasting fest that just got better. Posters Auxerrois and Klinger75 were in on most of this action: (in the shop) Neyers Chardonnay 2001 Napa Always consistent. Buttered popcorn and roasted corn round out ripe apple fruit. For this style Neyers has it in the bag IMO. Dutschke "Willow Blend" 1998 Barossa Valley Australia (Merlot-Shiraz-Cab) Tons of french and American oak cause a somewhat flashy vanillan nose. Fruit inside was soft and approchable. A little like Welch's grape jelly. Not a stunner but certainly pleasant. Angelini Vino Nobile di Montepulicano 1997 'Simposio" A really gorgeous bottle of wine. Stunning acid and classic cherry leather/violets. Loads of texture and complexity. This is 32 dollars well spent. At the restaurant (the big boys came to play, and the cellaring was supposedly very consistent) Perrier Jouet Flower Bottle 1989 Vintage Yeasty as hell, with sourdough and slightly rotting apples. The bubbles were langorous at best. We were divided upon how to judge this wine. I guess I like a tired out bubble now and again. Perhaps it was sleepy. L Latour Montrachet 1990 Excited to sample; disappointed once in the mouth. Nose was as expected, golden and hazlenutty with a hint of oxygen; ultimately this particular sample of this wine has not held up. It was fat and blousey with a lot of eggy notes (omlettes, egg whites, custard all were talked about). The finish was strong. Domaine de la Charriere "Cuvee du Paradis" Jasnieres 2000 Not too many familiar with this north of Vouvray Chenin Blanc AOC in the Loire. very modern, it reminded us half of new Zealand and half vouvray. Very alive with crisp green apples,and biscuity hints. Went great with serrano ham. Duckhorn Vineyards 1995 "Howell Mountain" Cabernet Sauvignon Ripe red fruits (surprise surprise- currant & rainier cherry) The thing I loved about this one was although the alcohol was high, the aromatic texture was intoxicating. There were elements of cassis syrup and gentle tannins. We had this with meat. Lynches Bages 1975 Not a stunning example, from its leady nose, thin palate and meaty confusing finish. I know this is not a phenomenol vintage but I think this was off. Mauro Priorat 1996 (there was some discussion regarding the cepage, a few felt as though there was some tempranillo) A really nice sweeping nose of saddle leather & tobacco glides into deep plum and raspberry fruit. Amy was just smiling and Doug said "Rippin' bottle" Then the cat fur discussion came, but I had not smelled a cat lately. Apparently Auxerrois had although I thought he was allergic... Silver Oak Alex Valley 1999 Green pepper, dill pickle and dark dark astringent fruit. Kay Brothers Amery Vineyard Hillside Select Shiraz 1998 McClaren Vale, Australia Good to leave a wine like this for last because it is the about the only thing we could taste. (Bear in mind there were a lot of people). Shy and reticent at first, after about 45 minutes this wine exploded, a glycerol fruit bomb with mint and black bramble galore. It was a good dessert. The next day was a little rough.....................

This is a tough "vs" question due to the extreme differences in climatical (and is that truly the adjective) variance between Spain & Italy. Italy, in its North and nothern Central expressions is famous for acidity, Spain not so much. The grape varieties and vagueries in Italy far outnumber those of Spain, and Spain at the present moment is much more flexible in DOC laws than Italy has been in the past. In both countries I think there is tremendous value to be found but ultimately I agree with Echezeaux; research is necessary. Spain is beginning to find its international footing, Italy has been there for a bit. In Rioja at one time, wine was bottled upon demand. Wine could sit in these casks for years until needed (or wanted) and come out in this slightly oxidized, meaty state. Kind of wonderful. But the barrique has made it over there and the international styles have taken hold. We shall have to watch Spain and see. From what I am tasting, limited as that is, it is all over the boards.

you are getting great prices on this nice wine. Bravo!

It is also the Sangiovese used in Vino Nobile di Montepulicano.

Oh god let me just express my horrror. I printed out a paper that listed every classified growth so I could check the cepage of each and Mouton was listed in Pessac! Now that I think of it it is insane but it seemed completely logical at the time. However I did just learn that officially Chateau Margaux has been moved into the middle of Entre Deux Mers. As for the Graves/Merlot business I will let you know although I guess I will have to double check all my sources. Shoddy and shame on me!

After doing all this research, it is very questionable to me that Mouton, which comes from Graves is predominately Cab. It was very apparent that cab focused Bdx hail only from the Medoc but there are many exceptions to that rule too. (Haut Brion remember, from Graves as well is 55 cab 25 merlot and 20 CF). I think a lot of wine writing is hyper-focused on these classed Bordeaux all of which, excepting the two mentioned above hail from the Medoc. At one time the quality standards were quite low in Bordeaux and this classification that happened in 1855 (is that right?) was an attempt to boost the standings. Yet the lion's share of the wines were from the Medoc. One can only assume that there were more fiscal resources and better political stature in the Medoc at that time. I think some questions remain: What percentage of all Bordeaux comes from the Medoc? What is the cepage of Mouton? What was going on elsewhere in Bordeaux at the time of the classification? And yes, someone did try to reclassify the Bordeaux in the 1960s. His name was Alexis Lechine. It did not work.

I think that there are a few wines from St.-Emilion that have a very high percentage of Cabernet Franc. I will check. Ausone is 50 Merlot 50 Franc. Also, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon are considered very similiar in this area (both Bouchet- gros and petit). It is widely held that Franc is the Daddy Cabernet S. Mommy is Sauvignon Blanc. This baby did not make an appearance until the middle of the 1800s. That is a nice big tasty family.