Marina Chang

I had the opportunity to meet all of them, some more extensively than others. All seemed genuinely without ego, and were extremely gracious. In all cases, except for El Bulli, I did not identify myself as anything other than another customer. For El Bulli, after our first request for reservations was turned down, we felt the need to state that our visit had a purpose higher than mere comestication. In most instances, the chef strolled into the dining room to greet some or all the tables. The tradition of chefs emerging from the kitchen to survey the dining room and chat with guests is not one I have observed here in the U.S. Due to the many questions we had during the course of our meals and the transparency of our enthusiasm over each dish, the chef at each establishment made a point of meeting us. The only sour note we encountered was in France at Michel Guérard’s, Michelin 3-star, Relais & Chateau, Les Prés d’Eugénie. At our lackluster, Michelin-no-star quality meal, there was no sign of Michel Guérard or any chef. Perhaps the quality of the meal was an indication that no one was in the kitchen. Other than meeting Ferran Adria in the El Bulli kitchen, Martin Berasategui and Santi Santamaria invited us to speak with them in the kitchen. At Zuberoa, Hilario Arbelaitz came out to meet us at the end of our meal. At Arzak, Juan Mari Arzak pulled his daughter Elena from the kitchen when he realized we were Americans. She even recalled taking our reservations over the phone; and when we raved about a particular morsel, she modestly thanked us and provided a bit of explanation as to how it was prepared. I received a copy of Los Secretos de El Bulli from Chef Adria and Mis Recetas de Siempre from Chef Berasategui. Both spent a fair amount of time with me, in the midst of their busy kitchens. Martin Berasategui seemed the most interested in assisting me in some way; he said he self-published the book he gave me, and it is not available anywhere, except as a gift to his colleagues and friends. Since the publication of Tastes of the Pyrenees, we have dined at El Celler de Can Roca, in Girona. I am flagellating myself at this moment for not having visited his restaurant during an earlier trip, and not having included Joan Roca’s name on my list of the region’s top chefs. In a Spain thread about El Bulli, I posted comments on some of his luminous creations. I rarely swoon over anything, but came close over Chef Roca’s spring lamb or ‘lechal.’ As with the other top chefs of this region, Joan Roca was extremely modest and gracious, and appeared to truly appreciate our interest and delight in his dishes. There are various reasons that I adapted recipes. I found all the famous Spanish chefs to be very generous in spirit. In many cases, a chef’s recipe will be written for 20 or 30 servings and he would have to calculate changes to provide me with a suitably sized recipe for the same dish. For the Veal Chops and Mushrooms recipe, the chef recited his ingredients and steps, which included reducing a sauce by simmering it for four hours. In the case of the Sparkling Wine Granizado served by Martin Berasategui, I knew I could create my own recipe based on what I tasted. Sometimes the ingredients in another country behave differently from ingredients in the U.S. and substitutions, additions, or different measurements must be made. I adapted a few recipes to simplify them for the home cook and American kitchen. In other cases, I realized that some recipes written by a chef or cook were incomplete and I needed to add exact measurements, written instructions, or slightly change the ingredients. One of the few times that I did request a recipe on the spot was at the Parador de Bielsa in the Spanish Pyrenees. I asked the chef for the recipe for Trout with Bacon, Sherry, and Cream, and I received a handwritten list of ingredients without measurements and one or two sentences of instruction. You said to tell all. - Marina.

The differences and similarities of these three regions are very broad topics, and it is best to begin with basic characteristics that have defined the personalities of these areas. Andorra is essentially an area with Catalonian roots, perched high up in the heart of the Pyrenees. During the course of my research, I could not find foods that could be classified as characteristically Andorran. I would define its cuisine as characteristically Catalan mountain food, with Spanish and French influences and ingredients. As one would expect, the traditional foods are characteristically mountain fare, centering on fresh trout, game species, sheep products, and seasonal vegetables (i.e. asparagus, mushrooms, etc.) or those that store well. The modern popularity of skiing, hiking, and other outdoor activities has attracted city dwellers to Andorra, which is changing some of the cuisine into more international fare with imported ingredients. Although its government has placed borders to identify the country of Andorra, they failed to invent a cuisine to distinguish Andorra from the rest of the mountainous region. Most of the Languedoc/Roussillon region rests in the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains, with a Mediterranean influence. The favorable topography and weather conditions prompted the Greeks to plant the first vineyards in Agde, Languedoc, in 400 B.C. The Languedoc/Roussillon area was settled by people of different races before the French migrated south into the area. They were identified by their language—Occitan–seemingly derived from Catalan, Gascon, and Provençal; hence the name Langue d’Oc. During a visit to Carcassonne, we learned that students in Carcassonne are taught in Occitan in the morning and in French in the afternoon. Several towns situated near the base of the mountains are strongly Catalan, and fly both the French and Catalan flags. The characteristic food of Languedoc/Roussillon is very French with an emphasis on ingredients from the terroir and locally developed agricultural practices. Several food products which are identified with France originate from this region, such as duck magret and foie gras. The Basque country and people are the most unique in various ways. Their language, Euskara, with roots in the Stone Age, is unrelated to any other European language. Due to some unique blood and language characteristics, many believe the Basques are descended from a remnant population of Cro-Magnon man. Although currently, Basque country in both France and Spain is relegated to a location along the Bay of Biscay, there is evidence of Basque presence in other areas based on the ancient names of various settlements. For instance, Elne, in Roussillon was once named, Illiberis, which is a Basque name. The food ingredients I most identify with Basque cooking are bacalao or salt cod, leeks, and the red Piment de l’Espelette peppers. I find classic Basque dishes to be relatively uncomplicated, with ingredients blended in straightforward, yet inspired combinations. Contemporary Basque cooks, much like their Catalan counterparts nearer the Mediterranean, have a dazzling gift for combining ingredients in delightfully delectable ways. Regarding traditional matches of food and wine: It is my opinion that while one should learn the traditional rules of how to pair wines and food, as we begin to know more about our own wine preferences – toward the softer, fruitier, or meatier, tannic, more powerful wines – traditional pairings should be used more as a background guide, rather than a strict rule of etiquette. The best chefs in the world are known for their creativity and abilities to find delicious new amalgamations of ingredients. In that same vein, I believe the new world style wines are an exciting addition and will add to our pairing options. The new wines may also raise the bar for those who have rested on their traditional laurels. - Marina

The dish you describe sounds like a classic lamb stew from Navarra, Cordero a la Chilindrón. It is my understanding that this ancient stew was originally made with lamb and choricero peppers, which are used in making chorizo. Modern recipes I have seen use fresh sweet red peppers – canned pimientos or red bell peppers will work. The piquant ingredient you seek is probably cayenne pepper. My book contains a recipe for Aragon Lamb Roasted with White Wine and Herbs, and a Marinated Leg of Lamb with Anchovies and Garlic, but it does not contain the recipe for this lamb stew. However, I can tell you that the versions I have seen contain anywhere from 2 to 3 pounds of lamb, a few slices of bacon or ham, 1or 2 onions, 1 or 2 garlic cloves, 4 to 6 tomatoes (or one pound), 2 large red bell peppers or several more small piquillo peppers, 1 bay leaf, 1 or 2 pinches of cayenne pepper, and sometimes 1 teaspoon of paprika. If covered and cooked over low heat, this dish requires no additional liquid. Nonetheless some recipes add 1/2 to 1 cup of red wine and 1 cup of vegetable or beef stock. - Marina

The recipe and cooking advice from eGullet members in the tortilla thread seem very complete. I also favor using Yukon Gold potatoes, and I like diced chorizo in my version of the tortilla. I would agree that it is sometimes nearly impossible to replicate the exact taste and texture of a dish experienced in another country, due to the differences in the ingredients, how we treat them, and the ”terroir” from which they came. I have found that Spanish or French preparations made with dairy products tend to be the most difficult to duplicate here in the U.S. In the tortilla thread, there were two comments about a French and Spanish preference for unrefrigerated eggs. I would add that a freshly laid egg which has never been refrigerated tastes world’s better than a refrigerated store-bought one. The variety of potato and even the earth it is planted in can make a difference in the texture and taste. A few years ago, during a stop in Santillana del Mar, I had the best glass of milk that I have ever tasted. It was rich, nutty and almost malt-like. When we returned home, I tried all types of organic, whole, milk and nothing was even remotely close. The milk was likely unpasteurized, the dairy cows may have been a higher butterfat content breed not commonly used in the U.S., and they may have been fed on vegetation varieties that our cows don’t eat. - Marina.

I wish I could help you, but I regret to say that although I have made several trips to Spain and southwestern France, I have never set foot in Paris. I am happy to share the ‘reply’ button with anyone who can help answer David’s question. - Marina.

The answer is a little of both. I am very pleased that you defined this as a reading book with recipes. Although saying that I wrote the book to satisfy my own ideal might be a bit extreme, I did want to make sure that the introductory narratives I wrote provided background information that was more satisfying than mere vignettes and homespun tidbits of information. I took some inspiration from cookbook authors I admire, such as Diana Kennedy, in my approach to the subject of the Pyrenees. I tried to achieve a cookbook that I would enjoy reading, by writing a hybrid between a cookbook and background “guidebook” to some of the region’s foods. My discussions attempt to illustrate the correlation between the natural history of the area and the ingredients or recipes, and to emphasize that no distinct boundaries exist between the actual food practices, habits, and natural resources of the area. While it may seem obvious and interesting to some of us that human migrations and historic geopolitical events, native plants and animals, and the natural history of an area would play key roles in shaping the tastes and direction of a culture’s cooking style, I haven’t found many cookbooks with this sort of information woven into them. The information is usually relegated to volumes dedicated to the history of food. I tried to write a cookbook for travelers who appreciate and have an interest in learning about the food of the Pyrenees region before, during, or after traveling through the area. Since far fewer travelers visit the Pyrenees region than Paris or Barcelona, I surmised that the type of traveler, actual or armchair, who is drawn to the Pyrenees, is primarily one with an attraction to nature, countryside exploration, and outdoor activities -- and would have an interest in learning about the natural history of the area. The background on native game and natural history, was written with this in mind. For a preemptive response to the question that has not yet been asked, about the lack of photographs in the book – it was a publisher’s decision based on economics. - Marina

My recipes were from a myriad of sources, including home cooks and restaurants. My purpose was to balance the traditional dishes with contemporary preparations from various chefs. For the traditional preparations, I researched numerous versions of a dish and created the best adaptation that I considered to be in the spirit of the dish. An example of a home cook obtained recipe is the Cake with Fruit, which I received from the proprietress of our bed and breakfast in Carcassonne, La Maison Sur La Colline. She wrote it from memory, giving only approximate measurements and baking instructions. When I obtained a recipe from a restaurant or specific cook, sometimes making my own adaptations, I attributed the original preparation to the chef. I cooked the dishes myself, testing them on my husband, his co-workers, our friends, and my publisher’s family. I tried but found it difficult to ask others to test recipes. Early in the process, I learned that others did not take this project as seriously as I did, and timeliness or poor feedback were recurring issues. - Marina

My husband and I have always found this to be a fascinating area with it’s mixture of cultures and high proportion of great cooks. When I was asked to write a cookbook, I chose this region based on the complexity of the area. I was interested in the numerous factors that influenced the food and history of this area -- the cultural history of the Basques, Catalonian, French, Spanish, and the Occitan, with flavors and practices also left behind by the Greeks, Romans, and Moors, as well as the changes that occurred with the infusion of ingredients from the New World. I also knew that the influence of the unique geography of the area -- with the Bay of Biscay and Atlantic waters on one side, the Mediterranean Sea on the other, and native habitats of the high mountains and outlying foothills -- would lend interest in my exploration of the region’s cooking styles. And of course, I also wanted to write about a favorite food region that I wouldn't mind visiting repeatedly. - Marina

According to the much respected French geographer Élysée Reclus, the Cordillera Cantábrica range, which includes the Picos de Europa near Asturias, was created from the same geological formation as the Pyrenees, making them essentially part of one continuous mountain range across the top of Spain. For this reason, Reclus considered the Cordillera Cantábrica as a continuation of the Pyrenees range. Also, one of the main points of the book is to illustrate the true migratory and cultural history of the people of the Pyrenees region, as reflected through cuisine, in contrast with the artificial designations and borders created through time by regional governments. In the book, my main food reference to Asturias is under the White Beans and Sausage recipe. The people of Catalonia, Asturias, and Gascony (and others) all have classic dishes in this genus. The prevalence of this dish beyond certain geographical boundaries shows the true movements of cultures through the expansion of their cooking styles and ideas. Élysée Reclus: “Il n’ya pas de géographie sans histoire et il n’ya pas d’histoire sans géographie.” - Marina

Yes, I am planning on writing another cookbook which will likely follow the same or similar structure. However, the next one will focus on foods of the Hawaiian Islands. Hawaii is another location where numerous peoples have stopped off or stayed, lending great influence over the locally prepared foods. As isolated islands, I believe the history and evolution of Hawaiian ingredients and cooking will make an interesting cookbook. If and when we reach a second printing for Tastes of the Pyrenees, I would like to expand the book a bit with sections on the cheeses of the region, as well as some of the other food products and ingredients for which some areas are famous, such as mushrooms, foie gras, nuts, and the various culinary oils.

An excellent description of the one of the first 2003 El Bulli experiences. We lunched there in 2001, on the second to the last day of the season - as early risers we chose lunch to ensure that we remained in a state of consciousness that would allow us to fully appreciate the full sensory experience of the food, wine, and location. We were lurking in the same area at about the same time as the Jonathan Day and Robert Brown party and might have breathed the same atmosphere, except for the logistics of our schedule which dictatated that for us El Bulli in 2003 was not to be. We instead opted for El Celler de Can Roca per a recommendation from Bux. Our special chef's choice tasting menu by Chef Joan Roca was the culinary highlight of our trip - his competition being Pedro Subijana of Akelarre and Santi Santamaria of El Raco de Can Fabes. We found Can Roca to be just the right balance of lucious comfort food and culinary experimentation. We ordered the chef's choice tasting menu, which included the most incredibly lucious, tender, succulent, lechal or spring lamb that I have ever tasted, accompanied by an espuma of its own broth, and a fresh, sweet, sheep's milk espuma, along with a spot of prune puree. We also experienced his newest dessert entitled, Anarchy - tiny jewels, cubes or dots, of different flavors and textures (basil, honey, almond, passion fruit, mint, lemon, tarragon, honey, bourbon, cardomom, orange peel, anis, pumpkin seed, ginger, violet, cloves, coconut, vanilla, coffee, etc.) - 49 ingredients in all, accompanied by a parchment scroll listing all the taste sensations. A free spirited work of culinary abstract art, and the closest we will come to tasting Harry Potter's Every Flavor Beans.

Going back to some of the earlier discussion on Bordeaux and other French wines, it is my opinion that the extremely prescriptive French labeling regulations have limited the options of French wineries and winemakers, preventing their wines from evolving and competing with winemaking innovations in other countries. From research I have done, the French AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee) labeling regulations limit not only the geographical area, but the grape varieties used, how far apart the vines are planted and number of clusters per vine (i.e. density and yields), whether they are allowed to irrigate, the conditions of winemaking, and wine alcohol content. All these micro-managing regulations would surely keep the French wine industry from much experimentation and from changing their wines to keep up with the rest of the world, let alone changing tastes. The caliber of California wines have been able to quickly catch up to French and other Western European wines by learning from the traditional techniques and experimenting with new ideas and variations in both grape growing and winemaking. The major difference in philosophy that I've found is that the "terroir" is sacred in Europe and tasting it from year to year is a valued characteristic in European wines. In California, we tweak the wines for the desired flavors and the grape grower and winemaker have more control over the final product than the government or the "terroir." On a very recent trip to southern France, we visited a very interesting winery in Languedoc, Domaine de Bachellery, where the owner/ winemaker said he is the only winery to have received special permission from the government to make wine from non-traditional varietals. He said he was using 24 varieties of grapes, including an old Basque variety, the Ejiodola, which he blends with Syrah. We found the wines to be very good to excellent. His best wine is named after a French poet, and called Ballade Pour Mistral. It is entirely handmade and a blend of 8 grapes (Pinot Noir, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan, Grenache, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc -don't know the eighth). Really great. I have not explored Italian wines to a great extent, nor am I very familiar with the wine regulations of Italy, so I can't add to that part of the discussion. - Marina

Pine Nut and Almond Cookies (Piñones) (Spain, Navarra) Serves 40. Recipe from Tastes of the Pyrenees, Classic and Modern by Marina Chang (Hippocrene Books, February 2003. $24.95 hardcover). Thanks to the author and publishers for sharing this with us. Across Spain, nuts are a popular ingredient in baked goods, a legacy left by the Moors. The richly flavored small white pine nuts used in Pyrenean cooking come from the umbrella pine (Pinus pinea), also called the stone pine. Called piñones in Spain and pignons in France, they are especially common in Catalan cookery. Pine nuts were introduced throughout the Mediterranean from Spain. Humans have cultivated this tree for its protein-rich food for well over 6,000 years, and it is still extensively cultivated throughout the Mediterranean. Ethno-botanists believe that before humans expanded the range of this tree over the last few thousand years, it was confined to the Iberian Peninsula, since this is the only area where pine nuts are found away from ancient trade routes. Pine nuts should be stored in plastic zipper-top bags in freezers. In Catalonia, as in southern Spain, pine nut-covered cookies and cakes are routinely displayed in bakery windows as one of their many holidays approaches. My favorite are the rich pine nut filled and exterior studded cookies from Zucitola Patiserías, a modest bakery on the Paseo Pablo Savaste in Pamplona. In an effort to re-create this Spanish treat, I developed the following recipe. These cookies with nut paste centers are very close to the real thing. To allow most of us to make these cookies without tapping into our life savings, I recommend making these with an almond filling in place of pine nuts. I also found that most of my tasters preferred the almond filling to the richer pine nut filling. However, my husband prefers the pine nut centers Nut Filling: 1 c almonds, blanched and lightly toasted or 1 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted 1 tsp flour 1/2 c sugar 1 tsp grated lemon zest 1 egg, beaten Outer Cookie Dough: 2 c flour 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 c butter, softened 1 c sugar 1 egg 1/2 tsp almond extract 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 1 c raw pine nuts For Nut Paste Filling: Place nuts in a food processor with 1 teaspoon flour (2 teaspoons if using pine nuts) and mix until the consistency of sand. Pine nuts may become the consistency of coarse peanut butter due to high oil content. Place ground nuts in a bowl and mix in sugar and lemon zest. Add egg, a little at a time, blending and kneading it into the paste. If using pine nuts, you may only need to add 1/2 the egg to moisten to a pliable, slightly viscous paste. If the paste is too wet, knead in a little more sugar. Knead paste to an even consistency. For Dough: Combine flour and salt. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar. When well mixed, add egg, almond and vanilla extracts, beating until well combined. Gradually mix flour into buttery mixture. When dough is formed, wrap it in plastic and refrigerate for 1/2 to 1 hour. For Assembly: Preheat oven to 350º F. Using a teaspoon, spoon out a chunk of dough and quickly roll it into a ball and press to slightly flatten. Spoon a small amount of nut paste into the center of the dough and wrap the sides of the dough around the nut filling to completely envelope it. To reshape any imperfections, quickly roll it into a ball between your palms. Roll top half of cookie in pine nuts, and press them into the dough before placing on cookie sheet. If dough becomes too soft to work with, place in refrigerator for 10 minutes or until it stiffens up again. Bake cookies for 15 minutes. Pine nuts and bottom edges of cookie may turn slightly golden, but cookies should not brown. Remove and let cool. Blanche the almonds by placing them in boiling water for 30 seconds. Their skins will bubble and loosen. Rinse them in cold water and drain. Squirt each almond out of its skin. To toast almonds or pine nuts, place them in a dry pan over medium heat, tossing and stirring the nuts until lightly tanned. Keywords: Spanish/Portugese, Cookie ( RG348 )

Layered Vegetable Gratin (southwest France) Serves 6. Recipe from Tastes of the Pyrenees, Classic and Modern by Marina Chang (Hippocrene Books, February 2003. $24.95 hardcover). Thanks to the author and publishers for sharing this with us. A gratin is any dish topped with a layer of cheese or bread crumbs and baked. This particular dish is based on a vegetable gratin we enjoyed in Roussillon. The layers of cooked vegetables in a loaf pan create an attractive presentation as a side dish or first course. If you are able to cook your vegetables over a wood fire or hot coals, the light smoke will lend an outdoor or Old World quality to the dish. 1 egg 1-1/2 c bread crumbs 1 large or 2 medium eggplants, cut lengthwise in 1/4-inch slices 4 T olive oil 3 medium to large onions, thinly sliced 3 cloves garlic, minced Salt and pepper 4 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 12 black brined or oil-cured olives, pitted and chopped 2 red bell peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, and sliced 3/4 c grated sheep cheese, such as Idiazabal or Brebis Preheat oven to 400º F. Beat egg, pour into a wide bowl with 1/4 to 1/2 cup water. Place bread crumbs in a shallow dish. Dip eggplant slices in egg and then in bread crumbs to coat both sides with crumbs. Brush or rub a baking sheet with 1 to 1-1/2 tablespoons olive oil. Place eggplant slices on oiled sheet and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, check and turn slices over halfway through. Remove when slices are softened through and crumbs are slightly browned. Reduce heat to 350º F. Over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil to a skillet. Sauté 2 onions until soft and translucent. Add garlic, and sauté for another 1 to 2 minutes. Remove and set aside. With the remaining 1/2 to 1 tablespoon oil, coat the inside of a baking dish. Reserve about 1 to 2 teaspoons oil, and mix in with remaining 1/2 cup bread crumbs. You may not need all the oil. Sauté tomatoes and remaining 1 onion on medium low heat, until onion is wilted and tomatoes are thick and mushy. It should resemble a thick coarse sauce. Set aside. Begin layering ingredients, starting with onions, then add eggplant, olives, tomato-onion mixture, pepper slices, ending with an even layer of cheese. Repeat this process, ending with cheese. Top with oiled bread crumbs. Bake for 30 minutes, until bread crumbs are browned. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving. Serve hot or cold. Do not add too much salt to this, as the salt in cheese and olives will infuse into the vegetables. You can also embellish this preparation by sprinkling in bacon, herbs, or anchovies. This is also excellent when eaten cold, the next day. Keywords: French, Side, Vegetables ( RG347 )

Magret of Duck with Walnut and Garlic Sauce (Languedoc, southwest France) Serves 4. Recipe from Tastes of the Pyrenees, Classic and Modern by Marina Chang (Hippocrene Books, February 2003. $24.95 hardcover). Thanks to the author and publishers for sharing this with us. Southwest France is well known for many food products, ducks and walnuts being two of them. Magret is the breast meat from the large Muscovy or Moulard ducks in the southwest of France that are force-fed for foie gras. The magret is much thicker than the breasts of other ducks and has a nutty, rich taste, similar to a good steak. Magret has long been a delicacy commonly available only in southwest France, the land of foie gras. Happily, it is now served throughout France, and fine dining establishments in the United States. As with a good steak, magret is usually served with a rare center. This walnut and garlic sauce or aillade, a variation on allioli, originates from the Languedoc region. In the language of the Occitan, the culture which gave rise to the region's name, Langue d'Oc, this sauce is called Alhad Tolosenca. In Languedoc, this would be made with the local sweet, extremely flavorful, pink garlic "dAlbi," which is primarily grown in and around Lautrec. The ail rose de Lautrec, which is planted in early winter and harvested in June and July, is the most popular variety. The walnut oil, or huile de noix, adds an exceptionally fine flavor to the sauce. It is pressed in autumn, when the nuts are first spread out to dry on wooden balconies of farm houses and then taken to mills in sacks for crushing by huge millstones. The southwest region of France is well known for the resulting walnut oil. Walnut Garlic Sauce: 2/3 c walnuts, in small pieces 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1/8 tsp salt 2 tsp lemon juice 1/2 c walnut oil Magret/Duck Breasts: 4 duck breasts, boned, with skin on Salt and pepper 2 shallots, finely chopped For Walnut Garlic Sauce: Using a blender or food processor, process walnuts into a purée. Add garlic, salt, and 2 tablespoons of cold water. Continue blending. Add lemon juice and process for 5 to 10 seconds to purée all ingredients together. Begin adding walnut oil in a thin stream. If the food pusher in your processor has a small hole in the middle, feed the oil through it. Make sure the mixture stays thick, and all the oil is incorporated before more is added. To let flavors combine, let the sauce sit for approximately an hour. If you find that your mixture has separated, pour out the excess oil that floats to the top, and save it for another use. The remaining mixture will be the consistency of a thick sour cream. Give it a stir and serve it in dollops with the duck. It will taste just as good. For magret/Duck Breasts: Score the skin with a sharp knife, making cross-hatch marks 1/2 to 1-inch apart, across its surface. Season both sides of each breast with salt and pepper. Indoor Method: In a hot skillet over medium heat, place the breasts skin side down. Cook approximately 8 minutes, or until the skin is browned. The skin will have released more than enough fat to coat the bottom of the pan. Toss in shallots, and turn each piece over. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes more, depending on the desired level of rareness. Transfer to a platter lined with paper towels, to absorb excess fat. Cover with foil to keep warm and allow the meat to rest for 2 minutes. Outdoor Method: If possible build a fire using grape vines. Another type of wood or charcoal fire will also work well. Grill the seasoned duck breasts over the fire, as you would a steak. When cooked to the desired level, scatter chopped shallots in a plate and place meat over them. Cover with foil or another plate. Place in a warm spot near the fire for 10 minutes. After 5 minutes spoon any juices released over the meat and re-cover. Slice duck breasts and serve with walnut garlic sauce. Although true magrets are difficult to come by in the United States, and the price is very dear when they are found, the breast of an easily available Long Island duck serves as a fine substitute. Keywords: French, Main Dish, Duck ( RG346 )

Mushrooms with Roquefort and Banyuls (southwest France) Serves 4. Recipe from Tastes of the Pyrenees, Classic and Modern by Marina Chang (Hippocrene Books, February 2003. $24.95 hardcover). Thanks to the author and publishers for sharing this with us. This recipe employs Banyuls, a vin doux naturel from the Côte Vermeille, in the portion of Languedoc-Rousillon just north of the Spanish border on the Mediterranean. In making this sweet wine, grape brandy is added to the partly fermented grapes, which increases the alcohol content and stops fermentation to preserve part of the natural fruit sugar. Banyuls is aged in wooden vats, and the final product is a wonderful mélange of roasted nut and subtle fruit flavors such as cherries, figs, blackberries, and peaches. The Grenache and other grapes that comprise Banyuls are grown on lovely steep hills above the rocky bays of blue sea and beaches of this Catalan coast. The Celliers des Templiers in picturesque Banyuls-sur-Mer offers tours that allow visitors to sample many different versions of this distinctive beverage. The nearby fishing village of Collioure is the jewel of the Côte Vermeille, and for centuries has impressed travelers and artists with its simple beauty. This dish features the tasty marriage of the incomparable sweet Banyuls wine and a powerful cheese in a perfect balancing act 4 small, individual-size, round, French bread rolls 2 T butter (or olive oil) 1 pound mushrooms, coarsely chopped Salt and pepper 1/2 c sweet Banyuls or port wine 1/3 c plus 1 heaped tablespoon crumbled Roquefort cheese 3/4 c cream or half-and-half Preheat oven to 350º F. Prepare the individual bread loaves by cutting the top off each roll, creating a 2 to 3-inch hole at the top. Make a bowl by partially hollowing out the center of each roll (excess bread can be saved and dried for bread crumbs). Do not make walls or bottoms of bread bowls too thin or they will melt through when hot filling is added. Place rolls on a baking sheet and toast in oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Melt butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, sautéing for several minutes, until well cooked. Sprinkle in salt and pepper to taste. Stir in Banyuls or port wine. As liquid begins to bubble, add the Roquefort cheese and cream. Reduce heat to bring sauce to a simmer. Continue stirring to help melt all the cheese. Spoon mushrooms and sauce into each roll, dividing evenly. If desired, place bread tops back on each roll and serve. Superb fall or spring dish, alongside game or any roast meat. Toasted walnuts can be added into the mixture or used as a garnish. Keywords: French ( RG345 )