cabrales
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Below is a summary of my recent (and only) meal (lunch) at Zuberoa:
-- Amuse of pigeon consomme. This was appealing, with an intense and "true" pigeon flavor. The upper portion of the dish was between a foam and a liquid (like the consistency of sabayon), and was tasty and visually appealing (there was a swirl of darkness on top of the consomme). The bottom layer was denser, delivering further pigeon flavors and incorporating tiny bits of very soft gelee that were almost visually imperceptible, but that were helpful to the dish. Above the consomme was a nice, clean pece of terrine of foie gras.
This dish is consistent with what I subjectively perceive to be an integrating philosophy at Zuberoa (LML -- when you have a chance, please consider indicating whether this is consistent with your views). There is a modernity to the presentation and some of the cooking methods utilized, but the overarching flavors could be viewed as traditional (in a good way) ones or "distillation of the essence of the product" ones in many dishes.
-- Oysters in gelee of seawater -- I had to order this dish because I had sampled oysters in some sort of gelee containing the jus inside the oysters at various restaurants (Meneau's L'Esperance, Lorain's Cote St-Jacques, Dutournier's Carre des Feuillant, Guy Savoy, etc.). This dish was visually stunning, with a single flat oyster embedded in an almost liquid gelee, with small swirls of white and burgundy-colored (likely beetroot, very mild form) sauce on top of the gelee. The oyster was salty, rendering the dish slightly off balance. Interestingly, the type of oyster utilized had the texture of certain firm clams (e.g., palourdes). This cold oysters dish was to provide an appealing contrast with the warm oyster dish to come.
-- Caramel de crustaces a la gelee de pampelmousse, pommes de terre et caviar (A caramel of shellfish with grapefruit gelee, potatoes and caviar). A very unusual (in a neutral way) tasting dish. The largest component of the dish was a mild-tasting potato material that was more solid than foam, but not quite solid. On top of it was a generous amount of caviar, adding nice ocean-based flavors. On top of the caviar was a thin (likely potato-based), circular-shaped tuile. Crucial to the dish was what was below the potato material -- a gelee of grapefruit and a caramelised seafood sauce-like item. That the gelee was below lent interesting "weight" qualities to the dish's components when they were scooped up using utensils. A very interesting flavor when the various components were taken int together.
-- Coquilles Saint-Jacques poelee sur puree de potiron et sauce fumee (Pan-fried scallops on a pumpkin puree with a smoky sauce). A single plump scallop was appropriately cooked (i.e., less cooked). The pumpkin puree was relatively neutral-tasting, and not particularly sweet. There were speckles of bacon-related bits on the scallop, and a very smoked taste to the saucing.
-- Huitre tiede avec sauce parfume a son propre jus (Warm oyster with a sauce perfumed with its own jus). This was a wonderful dish. The same type of oyster was presented in a sauce formed from the jus inside the oyster. Only slightly warm (appropriate), and very beautiful. Swirls of beetroot-colored burgundy adorned the saucing. Nice inclusion of trouts' eggs, which added an element of saltiness and augmented the ocean aspects of the dish. The trouts' eggs resembled, both in appearance and in taste, salmon roe. A dish I enjoyed.
-- Jaune d'oeuf poche et risotto au chipiron (Poached egg yolk with a squid risotto)
This dish was very good, and appealed to me considerably. A runny, but intact, egg yolk had been placed between two thin sheets formed from egg white. This was literally an egg "sandwich", delicately crafted. Below was a nice squid-flavored risotto. -- Chipiron (squid) with onion and squid ink sauce. What a nice gift from the kitchen. A medium-sized squid grilled whole, with an onion-based sauce and also a squid ink based sauce. Nice sequencing relative to teh squid risotto from the prior dish.
-- Foie gras. Nice dish, with foie gras sauced with vanilla and orange. A vanilla-scented tuile completed the dish. Fattiness of foie was nicely utilized in this dish.
-- Morue aux legumes confits, sauce emulsionnee et huiles aux olives noires (Cod with confit vegetables, sauce and oils of black olives). Another visually appealing, and tasty, dish. A piece of confit of cod had black olive sauce spooned onto it and running down the height of the filet in little dribbles that were intended. Nice utilization of confit veggies, including acidic confit tomatoes. Saucing was a gelee (really more like a liquid of medium consistency) of cod.
-- Palombe rotie au romarin et chou vert truffe (Wood pigeon or special pigeon from Southern France, roasted with rosemary and truffled cabbage). This was recommended to me rare, and it was served literally that way. Nice purplish effects to the flesh, and sentiments of not being cooked on the mouth. Cabbage/truffle sauce was sufficiently "dark".
-- Green apple soup. Served with a thin pastry "timbale". Nice.
-- Croustillant aux fruits secs fourre de flan au fromage, verveine et sauce aux fromages (Croustillant of dried fruits containing a cheese flan, verbena and a cheese sauce). An interesting dessert. Pastry dominated with dried fruit bits formed a conical shape, in which were placed a runny cheese item and nicely fragrant verbena foam. Interestingly, at the bottom of this portion of the dessert was a tart grapefruit gelee. The runny cheese item had the texture of a ripe Vacherin Mont d'Or, but was likely a local cheese (perhaps unsmoked Idiazabal, rendered into a cream?) Appropriate rendered mild, and a nice pairing with the verbena foam.
Overall, clearly deserving of two Michelin stars and an appealing meal aided by informed service. Not as subjectively appealing as meals at Arzak.
Note that restaurants in Spain appear to serve up dishes much more quickly than comparable-level restaurants in France. Although meals begin later, the pace is noticeably more rapid.
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peterpumpkino -- Thanks, for encouraging me to go. I've since been.
There is a direct train from Paris (Montparnasse, in my case) to Hendaye, a French town south of Biarritz and Bayonne. (Be careful about the stations, as Hendaye is after a station called Hendaye Plage or Hendaya Beach). The train is described as a TGV, but does not travel at TGV speeds for the predominant portion of the applicable journey.
At Hendaye, to the immediate right of the SNCF train station, there is a little blue and white colored busstop-like stand. It is the station for the Eusko Tren (a local commuter-like train). The Eusko Tren stops at Renteria (it's called Errenteria or something, which is the place for another interesting restaurant) -- where Mugartiz is. The Eusko Tren also stops in the town where Zuberoa is. There are two stops for Donostoa (spelling?) aka San Sebastian. The final stop for certain Eusko Trens departing from Hendaye is Lasarte Oria, the town where Berasategui is lcoated. A ride on the Eusko Tren costs less than 2 euros.
For members visiting Lasarte Oria, there is a clean, not super-luxurious hotel within 5 minutes by taxi from Berasategui and within an easy walk of the restaurant. It is called the Ibiltze.
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Adam --
:laugh: (The number of smilies is not necessarily coincidental.) -
Cabrales, when are you going to post about my personal favourite, Zuberoa?
LML -- For you, I'm going to have a post on Zuberoa up by this time tomorrow.
I found Zuberoa at least as strong as Berasategui, although that assessement is preliminary (having been based on only a single meal at each facility). However, I preliminarily prefer Arzak to either. At Arzak, the chefs provided excellent food and were extremely generous with their time and attention. The Arbelaitzs and Bersategui were generous too, both with respect to comp'd dishes and wine and with their time.At Zuberoa, I took in the following tasting menu (under 85 euros):
-- Amuse of pigeon consomme
-- Oysters in gelee of seawater (cold; comp'd and not part of the stated tasting menu)
-- Caramel de crustaces a la gelee de pampelmousse, pommes de terre et caviar (A caramel of shellfish with grapefruit gelee, potatoes and caviar)
-- Coquilles Saint-Jacques poelee sur puree de potiron et sauce fumee (Pan-fried scallops on a pumpkin puree with a smoky sauce)
-- Huitre tiede avec sauce parfume a son propre jus (Warm oyster with a sauce perfumed with its own jus)
-- Jaune d'oeuf poche et risotto au chipiron (Poached egg yolk with a squid risotto)
-- Chipiron (squid) with onion and squid ink sauce
-- Foie gras
-- Morue aux legumes confits, sauce emulsionnee et huiles aux olives noires (Cod with confit vegetables, sauce and oils of black olives)
-- Palombe rotie au romarin et chou vert truffe (Wood pigeon or special pigeon from Southern France, roasted with rosemary and truffled cabbage)
-- Green apple soup (On the tasting menu, this is a chocolate item, but the restaurant offered a switch after I indicated the chocolate dessert could be omitted. That is the way to politely pursue a switch, I have found, although one has to be ready to have the request for an omitted dish taken up on.)
-- Croustillant aux fruits secs fourre de flan au fromage, verbeine et sauce aux fromages (Croustillant of dried fruits containing a cheese flan, verbena and a cheese sauce)
The wine was Rueda "Belondrade & Lurten" 2000 (35 euros), a Spanish white. With the palombe dish, I took in a glass of Rioja Marques de Tomares Reserva 1996. The glass was comp'd, as were the samplings of oysters in gelee (which I had ordered), the chipirons after the egg yolk dish, the aperatif (the house recommended a local beer brewed by an affiliate, "Pagoa Brand, Orhi", a Pilsner) and the dessert wine.
Due to added meals in France, I was unable to make it to Mugaritz or Akelarre. However, I plan to revisit Arzak and take in at least two meals there in the next year and expect to visit Mugaritz, Akelarre and Arbelaitz in the industrial park during the same trip.
I stayed at the Hotel Niza, which has nice decor and which is right along the beachfront in San Sebastian. It is less grand than the Maria-Christina, but has its own charm with respect to decor.
For other members --
Several appealing aspects of Zuberoa: (1) strong presentation marks for the dishes, including the "swirling" effects used for sauces (presentation would be fruitless without good cuisine, which was offered as well), (2) linguistic skills in describing the dishes, and (3) capable dining room team led by the eldest Arbelaitz brother and his wife. Note the youngest of the three brothers is no longer patissier at Zuberoa. He has become the chef and patissier of a sibling restaurant, simply entitled Arbelaitz, in an industrial park close to San Sebastian.
I received a tour of Zuberoa, although the kitchen was very busy and I indicated I need not visit on this occasion. In addition to the main, beautifully blue dining room and a large open-air dining room that is utilized in the summer time, the restaurant has at least two private rooms. It is located in a 600-year old house, which has been occupied by the Arbelaitzs for four generations adn which has been utilized as a restaurant for around forty years.
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like most good restaurants, there would be menus available in several languages and Cabrales, known for her Francophilia, would have asked for one in French.
LML -- That is actually the reason. Berasategui probably had menus in English too, but I did not inquire.
The Berasategui dining room team that assisted me was not particularly versed in English or French, except for the sommelier who was kind enough to have assisted in describing many of the dishes. Chef Berasategui was fully versed in French. Arzak had menus only in Spanish and English. Dining room team members were slightly better with French, but not by much except for supervisory personnel. Elena Arzak spoke good English, and her father spoke fluent French.
Zuberoa had the most linguistically competent dining room members.
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Below is Berasategui´s current tasting menu (at 88 euros, years indicate date of creation of applicable dish).
Amuses:
-- Palourdes crus a l´huile olive (a type of European clam, raw with olive oil)
-- Filet d'anchois avec de la tapendae (anchovy filet with olive tapenade)
-- Soupe de lentilles (Lentil soup)
-- Toast au fromage et jambon Iberique (toast with cheese and Spanish ham)
-- 1995 Millefeuille caramelise d´anguille fumee, foie gras, petits oignons et pommes verte (Millefeuille caramelized of smoked eel, foie gras, small onions and green apples)
-- 2002 Mosaique de coquilles Saint-Jacques et huitre, accompangnee dún coulis gelantineux de corail (Mosaic of scallops and oysters, accompanied by a gelatinous coulis of the corail of the scallops)
-- 2002 Salade tiede de coeur de chou-fleur avec d´anchois d´ail, creme a la laiture de ferme et jus iode (Warm salad of the heart of cauliflower with garlic-flavored anchovies, a cream of farm lettuce and a seafood-flavored jus)
-- 1999 Gelatine chaude aux fruits de mer avec soupe dánis etoile et sorbet au fenouil (Hot Gelatine of seafood with a star anise soup and a sorbet of fennel)
-- 2001 Chipiron Saute avec son encre en raviolis cremeux ( Squid sauteed with its own ink in a ravioli)
-- 2002 Truffe Noire avec betterave, salade liquide aux herbes et fromage Mont d´Or (Black truffles with beetroot, liquid salad of herbs and Vacherin Mont d´Or French cheese, this dish carries a supplement of 15 euros or so)
-- 2002 Foie gras chaud avec soupe de chataignes roties au cardamome (Hot foie gras with a chestnut soup roasted in cardamom)
-- 2002 Bar Roti avec Vinaigrette acidulee aux pistaches et creme aux tubercules a l´ancienne (Bass roasted with an acidic vinaigrette, with pistachios and a cream of potatoes?)
-- 2002 Cerf Grille avec son propre boudin saute, cerises, pommes douces et tuille croustillante (Deer grilled with its own sausage, cherries, gentle apples and a crunchy tuille, of beetroot)
-- 1998 Pieds de Porc Iberique Farcis, Avec Crouton de Cepes et Fromage Idiazabal (Pigs´Feet from Patta Negra pigs stuffed, with a crouton with porcini and Idiazabal cheese, this was not from the tasting menu and was ordered in a half-portion size at less thn 15 euros)
-- 2002 Desert au Chocolat au The (bonbon, glace, creme caille et granite) (Chocolate dessert with tea -- candy, ice cream, creme caille and a granite)
-- 1999 Cafe au lait glace, soupes caramelisees et pruneaux (Ice cream of coffee with milk, caramelized brioches and prunes).
Without going into the details, Arzak is markedly better than Berasategui relative to my tastes.
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Bonjour Paris offered a rather promising description of Pierre Herme's latest collection, entitled "White and Hand-Tailored". It is indicated that rice and mascarpone are ingredients that are emphasized in this context.
http://www.bparis.com/newsletter1464/newsl...m?doc_id=121036
The "Carre Blanc" sounds interesting (and has a name that brings to mind one of the non-white varieties of chocolate and its utilization by Herme). Most interesting-sounding, however, to me is the Piemonte hazelnuts and white truffle cream macaron.
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The November 2002 edition of Food Arts confirms a previously-described (by Girardet) sense of dissatisfaction on the part of Girardet with respect to his former sous-chef and his chosen successor, P Rochat. The general complaint on the part of Girardet is that Rochat pushed him out of the kitchen in a manner Girardet had not anticipated.
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The November 2002 edition of Food Arts indicates that Le Bec apparently supervises not only Les Loges and Cafe Epicerie, but also Bastide de Marie in Provence and several properties in Megeve. All properties are owned by the same small French company called Compagnie des Hotels de Montagne.
After having received Gault-Millau's support, he noted that, while customers are his best critics, "My goal is to get two stars in five years and three stars in seven." I'm sure Michelin, which has yet to confer a star on Le Bec, will have something to say about that.
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The November 2002 edition of Food Arts notes the following:
"The Hotel Pont-Royal, in the heart of Saint-Germain des Pres . . . At L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon [not to be confused with the book of the same name featuring Robuchon and his top five disciples], which **opens in January**, up to 40 diners will settle on stools at a counter encircling the kitchen . . . . Thematically 180 degrees from Robuchon's former three-star kitchen, L'Atelier will be relaxed and casual . . . . Although no reservations will be taken, ** hotel guests will be given some priority**."
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Consider yourself warned.
Steven -- Is that the type of warning that precedes an MQ? I don't see how my actions would warrant such a warning. Rachel set forth the policy regarding RSVP lists in this thread and I merely responded to it.
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Cabrales is correct. Currently I won't dine with her (although I love her dearly) and if I knew she was going to atted an event I might not attend myself. But if I walked into to an eGullet function . . . I would treat her cordially and be gracious to her. Wouldn't you do the same Cabby?
Steve P -- I would be cordial and we would probably be chatting away. You'll be amused to learn that I almost attended unannounced as well.
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Cabrales - you have not yet made it to Maxims? I am shocked!
Jon -- Yes, Maxim's is on a list of restaurants with beautiful architectural/historical interest that I have never visited. Others on the list include: La Coupule, spelling (cannot be interesting enough to make the Restaurant Magazine top ten, by any measure); Julien; Laperouse; Le Train Bleu; La Fermette de Marboeuf; Drouant; Elysees du Vernet.
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Several other considerations relating to Rachel's policy:
-- There were at least two anonymous members on the RSVP list. Why couldn't the member Member K wanted to avoid have been one of them? If there were somebody she wanted to avoid, she should have worried about the two anonymous members.
-- How would Rachel's policy apply to drinks that members might share before the actual event? Or drinks that they might share afterwards? The reality is that, if a member wants to be sure not to see another member who sometimes attends eGullet events in the applicable geographic area, she should not be able to do that by means other than not attending the event herself.
-- How would Rachel's policy apply if an eGulleteer just showed up to say hello, and did not take in any food? She can't limit who shows up at a given physical location that is a restaurant, even if it has been reserved for eGullet.
-- Sometimes members from out of town do not know their exact schedules until the last minute, e.g., due to work constraints. Yet they still want to meet eGulleteers who were otherwise planning an event. Why shouldn't the out-of-towner be able to shown up unannounced? If an out-of-towner can show up unannounced, why can't an in-towner do so? Obviously, somebody showing up unannounced at a smaller event might risk not getting food, but there was no problem last night with respect to food.
-- When a SuperAmin shows up unannounced at an event, it would be rather unusual for a Moderator to suggest that pre-announcement was appropriate, no?
Apologies the above observation has to be in this thread, but I believe Rachel's policy has to be addressed and does not necessarily take into account countervailing considerations.
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In future, all eGullet members planning on attending eGullet events should publicly RSVP. The only people who should be able to RSVP anonymously are those guests that are attending with an eGullet member, like spouses, hence references like Mr. or Mrs. MemberName. **Everyone should be able to make informed decisions when deciding to attend a publicly announced event.** Rachel -- Now that's an interesting policy. Assuming that Member K cares about which other members attend, Member K is not going to really know (if she is interested in avoiding another member) whether she will be able to do so, unless she is the last person to be added to a limited-capacity event. In that case, though, Member K would have to risk not getting in because somebody beat her to the last slot. Also, Member K would have to keep monitoring the site to see when the event is about to fill up. Even if she secured the last slot, there are sometimes cancellations and a member Member K wants to avoid might sign up for a later-freed-up-spot.
What Member K might be placing less emphasis on was how welcomed by other members the member she subjectively for some reason did not want to meet might have been. I did not attend the event, but I get the impression everybody else was glad to have every other member there.
It is one of the great things about eGullet that members really want to meet each other. Why can't a member show up at Diwan without prior announcement? If the quantity of food had been limited (as it was not, evidently), the member could have simply not eaten. Note that several members appear to have shown up announced. If Member K did not want to meet another member, she could have just stayed away from him and, after being introduced to him, not continued to speak with him.
Also, Rachel's proposed policy can impose harsh consequences on people in the event that prepayment without rebate is in place for the event, like Andy Lyne's event at Chez Bruce. Let's say Member T (no, not you, Tony) had to cancel at the last minute, but Member X has just arrived in town and all the other attendees (except Member K) subjectively welcome Member X. Well, Member X's attendance can save Member T having to pay without attending, and Member T should be able to substitute Member X.
How would Rachel's policy be imposed in the event that I was planning to bring a non-eGulleteer to an event and therefore reported my attendance with a guest, but get cancelled on by that person at the last minute. I call Nina, who had originally not been planning to attend that event, to replace my guest. Is that a violation because Nina was undisclosed as my guest? Do I have a right to change which guest I decide to bring to an eGullet event? Alternatively, what if I had reported I was attending with a guest and my guest turned out to be Nina?
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[Response already provided by others.]
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Yes, Lotus is in the meat packing district. It still is a meat market for pretentious people. The bar area was fully occupied by the end of my meal, although I sensed that the "hipness" once perceived by such people from being at Lotus has dissipated. The food used to be better at one point.
Interestingly, the chef is the same as that supervising Bruno Jamais' new place. The December 2002 edition of Bon Appetit describes Lotus as "exclusive" (I think not) and mentions Jamais' $7000 membership fee.
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I might add that the Maxim's bar/sibling facility at CDG does not offer good food (not that I have yet sampled the cuisine at the original Maxim's, which I will get around to for historical interest purposes). There was a choice of salads, and a glass of wine, as part of a menu under 20 euros. However, the salad I sampled was mediocre. I doubt the outlet is any better than certain non-branded outlets. I forget which terminal the Maxim's bar was at.
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Vivremanger -- See the below thread on Pierre Herme. The Ispahan and the caramel/salt macaron (this is a single macaron) are nice. Note that, at least at the Bonaparte venue, certain creations (not the majority) are available in mini versions that could allow you to sample more varieties. At Bonaparte, consider including certain chocolates.
http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...hl=pierre+herme
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Lesley -- Below is info on Bruno (see the latter half of the quote). As you can see, even the prices at the main restaurant (outside of Nice) are very reasonable. The selection is more limited at Terre des Truffes, but the dishes were nice when I visited last year. The only aspect I have wondered about, in connection with that restaurant, is whether they use frozen or other preserved truffles when applicable varieties are not in season. At TdT, be alert to the different types of truffles used when you order -- Melanosporum is the classic Southern French/Perigord black truffle, but other types of truffles are featured as well. The serving sizes are quite generous.
Bruno is the "Truffle King" described in the so-entitled chapter of Goose in Toulouse.
Another restaurant with rooms is Chez Bruno at Lorgues (3-5 rooms) [this is the main restaurant, and not the facility in Nice]; very roughly about halfway between Nice and Marseilles. The place specializes in truffles. Late this summer, I had lunch there with the below menu at 650 FF for Truffes Melanosporum (price would have been a very reasonable 320 FF for summer truffles).Chou farci aux truffes, braise dans une sauce aux truffes (stuffed cabbage)
La pomme de terre des montagnes cuite en robe des champs aux girolles et creme de truffes (potatoes)
Foie gras avec des pommes vertes et des truffes, sauce aux truffes
Le miel aux truffes (honey)
Tarte tropezienne au leger parfum des iles (only non-truffled dish was dessert)
The previous day, I had had lunch at Terre des Truffes in Nice (close to the opera house), which is also owned by Bruno:
Le foie gras au torchon truffe a 10% a la Truffe Tuber Brumale, sa salade et son pain grille
La Brouillade aux truffes tuber brumale et truffes de saison (velvety egg dish)
La pomme de terre en robe des champs, a la creme de truffes et truffes de saison (potatoes)
Ravioles de champignons de paris et foie gras, creme de cepes et truffes de saison
La truffe en feuillete au foie gras, poitrine fumme, Tuber Melanosporum (truffe en croute with black truffle)
Moelleux au chocolate, coeur de caramel aux Truffes Tuber Brumale; La tarte aux pommes, caramel de truffes; La creme glacee au caramel de truffes (shared) (chocolate, apple pie and ice cream, respectively, with caramelized truffle sauce).
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(Breach #??): This place is so conscious about projecting hipness that it detracts from the cuisine. The facility is pretentious, without having any remaining basis to be, and fashion-driven. While there was good attendance at the bar later in the evening, for the meal portion the place was less than 75% full for the principal room (leaving aside the back rooms, which used to have been occupied). The pretentiousness began with the reservation process – many pre-recorded layers to get to an actual person; requirement of credit card AND a three-day-prior confirmation, an e-mail received from the restaurant reminding one of the date. The staff were people too focused on seeming cool, and not being particularly cool. The $55 prix fixe (before supplements, like for the foie gras) does not offer the type of food the restaurant used to (good-plus, at one point, about 2 years ago).
The amuse was a citrus goat cheese puff -- mundane. Citrus was a bit too stark for the goat cheese. Then, mushroom infused EVOO was made available for dipping with the bread.
Quartet of Foie Gras. This was different from the very nice version the last time around. Now, served on an “undulating” clear glass plate were the following. First, a seared piece of presumably (goose?) foie – this was not as warm as I subjectively prefer, and a bit too much like chicken liver in texture for some reason. Then, the nicest part of the dish – gelee of foie, which was really like softened foie, but not too softened. This was accompanied by marinated juliennes of celery stalks – not bad and not dominating. Then, a cromesqui of foie gras (not bad, and a real ball shape), a la Marc Meneau, atop a potato puree that had white truffle oil. The foie ice cream was too melted, and had too many marinated black raisins beneath it that overwhelmed the taste. The last foie item (making more items than a quartet would suggest) was some potato pastry with foie gras puree – mediocre.
Lobster in cassoulet (sic). This was presented nicely. in a U-shaped white bowl with nice lines. However, the height effect on the sides made utilization of utensils on the dish difficult. The lobster was undercooked (a very unusual complaint on my part). Baby veggies in the broth were fine.
Dessert was poached pear, with peppercorn ice cream (the latter item tasted weird). There were baklava effects to the pear, which was itself too softened and lacking in depth.
Overall, a disappointing meal, perhaps average-plus.
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One option to bailing out (which I am neither recommending nor rejecting) is to have lunch at LTC. I believe there is a prix fixe menu.
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My view is that the dining public is largely happy with the four-star NY restaurants, and the vast proportion of diners believe that they are receiving excellent food and service, and perhaps might not be able to tell the difference. It is subjectively sad for me that almost all diners in the US (speaking of the population of the US, to be clear)believe they can find cuisine in the US (presumably, including in NY) that could rival that in Western Europe. The problem with innovation in the US is that it is not, largely, being done by people who have the rigorous training that the people innovating in France have. (Breach #6)
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It was incumbent upon the diners to collectively determine whether they wanted to adhere to formal etiquette and wait, or to adopt the practical solution of starting before the absent diner's return.
It was a French restaurant. French protocol, I believe, would have had you eating the food while it was hot.
It's a real burden to the kitchen if someone leaves the table at an inopportune moment, but it's the restaurant's responsibility, in a restaurant of this class, to see that the food is served when everyone is there ready to eat. I don't know when the diner left the table or why the servers were caught off guard and the service failure is apart from my comments on when diners should begin eating. There's no question in my mind that you eat when the food is served to you. If there's a delay in one dish, you eat as it arrives ...
I disagree that it would have been rude to start eating once you ageed to let the waiters place the food on the table ...
(Breach #6) I couldn't agree with Bux more. Yes, the kitchen and dining room teams at Lespinasse should have coordinated the placement of the dish with the female guest's departure. Note that in the US the practice, even at a restaurant at that level, is more mixed than at three or two-stars in France, say.
Moving on, once the dishes were set in front of the diners, it is not considered rude at an haute cuisine French restaurant of modern times to begin eating. While I have not encountered this problem frequently (given that I dine alone much of the time and separately that restuarants usually delay the placement of the dishes), I have experienced it at three-star levels and below on a very few occasions. The way I handled it at a three-star was to smile gently, looking at the waiter when the dish was presented (to signal I am reacting to the dining room team's error). Then I said in French something akin to: "Pardon me. I hope you don't mind that I begin without my dining companion. I'd like to sample the dish at the temperature the chef [note the reference to the chef] intended. I'm sure my dining companion wouldn't mind." This makes clear you recognized the restaurant's mistake, and you understand there is an argument you should have waited -- and yet you don't have to wait! The best of all possible worlds. In fact, the restaurant will then pay attention even more to your meal and you (leaving aside your dining companion, for now) will either be at least as well off, or even better off, than if the dish had not been presented in the dining companion's absence.
Blue Hill (NYC)
in New York: Dining
Posted
The dishes on the menu at Blue Hill tend to all utilize quality ingredients. The menu is, sometimes at least, changed daily to reflect availability, and Chefs Barber and Anthony are very vigilant about the quality of their produce.