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TPO

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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  1. Boston Globe – March 28, 2007

    A different night

    A native of Turkey brings Sephardic specialties to her Passover table in Chestnut Hill

    By Lisa Zwirn, Globe Correspondent

    Over the next six nights of Passover, which begins on Monday, the Shapiros have another tradition. They host casual gatherings for a half-dozen or so, Valya's way of sharing the Sephardic specialties she grew up eating in her native Turkey.

    Recipes:

    * Prasifutcho (leeks with cheese)

    * Mina de karne (beef and matzo)

    * Haroset with dates

    * Bimelos de Pesah (Passover fritters)

    ---------------

    Chickpea soup retains its primacy in Rome

    By Judith Barrett, Globe Correspondent

    One of Rome's most enduring primi piatti (first courses including pastas, grains, and soups) is pasta e ceci, a thick soup with origins in antiquity.

    Recipe:

    * Pasta e ceci (Pasta and chickpea soup)

    ---------------

    At home or abroad, find simple pleasures

    With warm weather just a chilly night or two away, we remain focused on red wines this month.

    ---------------

    Maine winter treat is red, ripe, ready

    By Jonathan Levitt, Globe Correspondent

    In this paper mill town northwest of Waterville, the new greenhouse venture boasts 240,000 shaggy tomato vines drooping with fruit. Since January, the farm has been shipping all of the red orbs, called Backyard Beauties, to New England markets.

    Recipes:

    * Roasted tomatoes

    * Baked chicken legs with tomatoes

    ---------------

    Seasons: Baking for Easter

    If America is a melting pot of cultures, then cheesecake could be its signature dessert. There are many styles of these creamy cakes.

    Recipe:

    * Ricotta cheesecake

    ---------------

    Chinese and Indian cultures mix

    By Visi Tilak, Globe Correspondent

    With its robust flavors and spices, Indian-Chinese cuisine is very different from the Chinese food served in restaurants here. Beef and pork are absent because of the population of Hindus and Muslims, and spices such as cumin, coriander, turmeric, and hot chili are common.

    Recipe:

    * Gobi Manchurian (Cauliflower fritters)

    ---------------

    More from The Boston Globe Food section:

    * Taste Kitchen: Matzo

    * Stock up on chicken vegetable soup with matzo ball

    * AROUND TOWN: Improv, art, and cookie decorating

  2. Toronto Star – March 21, 2007

    Jam session

    Three Toronto artists come up with one of Food Network Canada's unexpected hits

    By Jen Gerson

    Just as a band gets together to jam, so do the Food Jammers. A food idea gets thrown around and passed along until the concept for an episode is born.

    ---------------

    Celiacs will enjoy this beer

    By Josh Rubin

    Imagine the delight of Dalziel and others celiacs when in 2003, Quebec microbrewery Les Bières de la Nouvelle-France created La Messagère from gluten-free buckwheat and rice.

    ---------------

    Prof wonders what's fair about Fair Trade?

    By Stuart Laidlaw

    Gavin Fridell brings his own cup – emblazoned with the Trent University logo – when he goes to a coffee shop, chooses only Fair Trade coffee and comments on how he's not doing enough to help poor farmers in developing countries.

    ---------------

    Santé's match game

    By Gordon Stimmell

    The occasion is a taste test of dishes for the upcoming Santé wine festival's Ultimate Winemakers Dinner for 500 guests. At the cooking helm are four top Food Network chefs, each assigned a separate course to mate with 10 winning, world-class wines. Most courses have two wines with them. Some, like dessert, have one. Also, a couple of wines will be served at the reception.

    ---------------

    Little luxuries carry big pricetags

    By Jennifer Bain

    Square melons – a harmless luxury, a sensible solution, or proof the food world is mad?

    Toronto shoppers struggled with that conundrum on Friday when Longo's put $49.99 watermelons up for sale.

  3. Boston Globe – March 21, 2007

    World's fare

    A tour of ethnic markets in Somerville's Union Square goes from pasta to paneer

    By Kristen Green, Globe Correspondent

    Arts Union, a group that promotes Somerville's Union Square, recently compiled a guide encouraging customers to try some of the fare in the square's eight markets, owned by Brazilians, Guatemalans, South Koreans, Indians, Argentines, and Bangladeshis.

    For more information:

    * Find locations of ethnic markets in Somerville

    ---------------

    Cooking lessons from Rome: Leafy greens

    By Judith Barrett, Globe Correspondent

    Kale, chard, broccoli rabe (called broccoletti here), spinach, escarole, Savoy cabbage, and chicory -- all green leafy vegetables -- are an essential component of Italian cooking. They figure prominently in the main meal of the day as contorni, side dishes, but also as an indispensable ingredient in dozens, if not hundreds, of other preparations.

    Recipe:

    * Greens, the Italian way

    ---------------

    Maple syrup makers go with the flow

    By Jonathan Levitt, Globe Correspondent

    MONTREAL -- At the restaurant Au Pied de Cochon (the pig's foot), chef Martin Picard has at least 10 maple syrup recipes on his sugar season menus.

    Recipe:

    * Bellybuttons

    ---------------

    Muslims find more halal restaurants and food providers

    By Omar Sacirbey, Globe Correspondent

    Chicken tandoori, shami kebab, and lamb korma are among the exotic dishes offered at Grain and Salt, a new South Asian eatery in Allston. But Salim Nguyen, an observant Muslim from Wayland who eats only halal, the Islamic equivalent of kosher, is drawn to Grain and Salt's American fare.

    ---------------

    This Davis Square retail shop is always rolling in dough

    By Jonathan Levitt, Globe Correspondent

    Dave's Fresh Pasta, a shop and cafe in Davis Square, is bright and busy. Reggae music plays loud and it seems like the whole neighborhood lines up to order pasta, which Jick cuts for each customer.
  4. Toronto Star – March 14, 2007

    Pairing beer and food

    What tastes best with a pilsner or a stout? How to match beer with your meals

    By Josh Rubin

    Not only can beer be a good accompaniment to pizza and chicken wings (classic North American pairings), it also does a better job at matching a lot of foods usually thought of as wine territory, says Oliver, brewmaster of Brooklyn Brewing and author of The Brewmaster's Table.

    ---------------

    Guinness trivia

    10 things you might not have known about the dark brew from the Emerald Isle.

    ---------------

    Wine, through a server's eyes

    By Caitriona Cantillon

    Years later, when I went back to waitressing, my tastes had changed. I was over watering holes and preferred restaurants with good food. I was over making a million drinks a night and wanted plates. I wanted stemware. I had worked my way up.

    ---------------

    Springtime and wines that suit it

    By Gordon Stimmell

    Can salad days be on our horizon? Sauvignon blancs fit the appetizer menu. Sure you can go whole hog and get a lovely New Zealand gem, or a Sancerre from France, but we're looking for friendly, thirst-quenching sauvignon blancs.

    ---------------

    The customer isn't always right

    By SUSAN SAMPSON

    Panellists agreed that even when a customer is wrong, he should leave feeling as if he were right – not treated like a fool. One told the story of the guy on a first date who ordered chianti. When the cork was popped, he said: "Oh my God, I thought it was white." The server quietly took it away and brought him a bottle of white.

    ---------------

    Enjoy the South Asian heat

    Patricia Hluchy reviews Madras Palace in Scarborough.

    ---------------

    This hot sauce is truly hot stuff

    Which leads me to Molten Golden. It turned up as a gift in a hotel room in Charlotte, N.C. I bundled it into my suitcase, carried it over the border and fell in love with it. Molten Golden has been turning up the heat up in my kitchen ever since. 

    ---------------

    Oh so sweet rewards

    Susan Sampson reviews Baking: From My Home To Yours by Dorie Greenspan.

    Recipe:

    * Extraordinary French Lemon Cream Tart

  5. Boston Globe – March 14, 2007

    Staying down on the farm

    A new breed of young farmers, Kate Stillman and Aidan Davin are heirs to a tradition of working on the land

    By Michael Kenney, Globe Correspondent

    This is the characteristic let's-make-it-work attitude that Stillman and Davin have had since they bought their 90-acre farm in this Central Massachusetts town late last summer.

    ---------------

    Cooking lessons from Rome

    By Judith Barrett, Globe Correspondent

    In mid winter in Rome, cauliflower, usually called "broccoli," is in abundance, piled high in baskets at every stall in the markets. And there are many varieties. Our familiar white cauliflower is called broccoli bianco.

    Recipe:

    * Pasta with cauliflower

    ---------------

    Simple soda bread's flavor takes the cake

    By Lisa Yockelson, Globe Correspondent

    Lightly crumbly, with the pleasant tang of good buttermilk, raisin-studded soda bread is an easygoing delight. In Irish homes, of course, it's a staple on the tea table, and everyone knows cooks who can make a good sweet loaf in minutes -- without measuring.

    Recipes:

    * Raisin soda breads

    * Oatmeal-walnut soda bread

    * Brown soda bread

    * Irish freckle bread

    ---------------

    Restaurants take steps in green direction

    By Meg Wilcox, Globe Correspondent

    In fact, a green establishment may indeed serve healthful food and an array of fine produce, but to qualify for green certification, a restaurant must recycle waste, be styrofoam-free, complete four environmental steps, and commit to four additional steps each year, says Michael Oshman, founder and director of the nonprofit Green Restaurant Association.

    ---------------

    A meal that's as easy as ABC

    Alphabet soup is actually a quick and easy meal, ready in less than 30 minutes, and when homemade, more nutritious than any can will offer. The key is to dice the vegetables small enough so they cook quickly (and appeal to kids).

    Recipe:

    * Easy alphabet soup

  6. Toronto Star – March 7, 2007

    Syrian supper

    By Habeeb Salloum

    In Greater Toronto, where 15,000 of Ontario's 25,000 Syrian immigrants live, the love for the country's traditional food remains, despite the fact that there is no Syrian restaurant in the city. Here are a few tasty traditional dishes to try.

    Recipes:

    * Beet & Tahini Dip (Shamandar Mazza)

    * Bulgur & Walnut Salad (Salatat Burghal wa Jawz)

    * Lentil Dumplings (Harrack Isbouaau)

    * Ground Meat With Pine Nuts (Kofta Mabrouma)

    * Meatballs & Cherries (Kebab ma' Karaz)

    * Semolina Dessert (Maamuneeya)

    * Whips of Aleppo (Karabij Halab)

    ---------------

    When Italian food was exotic

    By Judy Stoffman

    Mari Cioni, who lives in Toronto and is a consultant on international education, has written an affectionate memoir, complete with photos. It's called Spaghetti Western: How My Father Brought Italian Food to the West.

    ---------------

    Why is Stella so popular?

    By Josh Rubin

    While such complex, unique beer styles may garner praise from aficionados, they're not what most Belgians sip when they decide to have a beer. Instead, the market is dominated by the same style that prevails in most other countries: pale lagers, or what is sometimes referred to euphemistically as a "continental pilsner."

    ---------------

    The winner's circle

    By Gordon Stimmell

    Get your gourmet appetite in gear. The Toronto Wine & Cheese Show is about to celebrate spring with hundreds of wines, spirits, microbeers and food booths at the International Centre. While this is the 24th edition of the show, it's under new management.

    ---------------

    Colombian comfort food

    Linda Nguyen reviews Pollos a la Brasa Mario in Toronto.

    ---------------

    Rejoice, the caesar salad never goes out of style

    By Susan Sampson

    North America's infatuation with caesar salad can be traced back to 1924. As the legend goes, that's when Caesar Cardini, an Italian restaurateur in Tijuana, Mexico, first tossed tender inner leaves of romaine with garlic vinaigrette, grated parmesan, coddled eggs and croutons.
  7. Boston Globe – March 7, 2007

    Singling out meals to cook for just one

    By Emily Shartin, Globe Correspondent

    Cooking a homemade meal for one can seem like too much trouble or can seem even more expensive to make than a prepared meal. But Chef Andrew Urbanetti and others believe cooking a homemade meal for one is worth it.

    ---------------

    Cooking Lessons from Rome: Crostini

    By Judith Barrett, Globe Correspondent

    This is the first in an eight-part series on authentic Roman food by Cambridge-based writer Judith Barrett, who is living in Rome. Barrett is the author of "Fagioli," "Saved by Soup," and "Risotto."

    Recipe:

    * Crostini con mozzarella alla romana (Roman-style mozzarella toasts)

    ---------------

    For a globe-trotting chef, cooking is elementary

    By Catherine Foster, Globe Staff

    Luis Hurtado, known professionally as Chef Raffie, brings recipes from his travels to children in his older son's aftercare program.

    Recipe:

    * Black bean and ginger soup with yellow rice pilaf

    ---------------

    After class, teens plan on food and friends

    By Cathy Huyghe, Globe Correspondent

    Forget location, location, location. When teenagers are going somewhere to meet friends after school, weather and pocket change can be just as important. Sometimes, even homework figures in.

    ---------------

    A world of flavors from Emerald Isle

    T. Susan Chang reviews Easy Entertaining by Darina Allen, Kyle Books, 304 pp., $35.

    Recipe:

    * Chili, salt, and pepper squid with frizzled cilantro

  8. Toronto Star – February 28, 2007

    That's the spirit

    By Katherine Elphick

    Sure, when I moved here from Toronto 10 years ago, Barrie was pretty much a chain restaurant and fast food mecca. People who don't live here still think it is because that's all they see when driving to cottage country, ski resorts or Wasaga Beach.

    ---------------

    Three for your money

    By Gordon Stimmell

    I tasted through about 30 wines to select today's winning trio.

    The wines:

    * Santa Alicia 2005 Chardonnay $10.85 (Chile)

    * Pelee Island Winery 2005 Cabernet Franc $11.15 (Ontario)

    * Farnese Casale Vecchio 2005 Montepulciano $12.45 (Italy)

    ---------------

    Roll out the barrels for beer

    By Josh Rubin

    After all, scotch distillers were using all sorts of oak barrels as flavour enhancers. Old sherry barrels and bourbon casks were commonplace in the aging of scotch, so why not use beer barrels, he and the distillery reasoned. The beer put into the barrels wasn't particularly important, they thought.

    ---------------

    Set a date to bake

    Susan Sampson offers a recipe for Oatmeal Date Turnovers.

    ---------------

    Finally, Africa gets culinary attention

    Jennifer Bain reviews The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa.

    Recipes:

    * Bobotie

    * African Avocado & Cornmeal Porridge

    * Poppyseed Rice Pudding

  9. Boston Globe – February 28, 2007

    It came from the fridge

    Open any refrigerator and you can tell how its users live. A casserole or a pot of soup probably means the family gathers for supper. A fridge full of beer and takeout containers can suggest bachelors with a lot of work and little free time. Four brands of nondairy milk might belong to roommates with different diet needs.

    * Interactive fridge

    ---------------

    With cookies, Girl Scouts have recipe for success

    By Ryan Rose Weaver, Globe Correspondent

    This year is also the 90th anniversary of the Girl Scout cookie. To mark the occasion, some of Boston's best pastry chefs will convene tonight at the Hotel Commonwealth to create desserts using the cookies.

    ---------------

    Choreographing a hearty, home-style meal

    By Jane Dornbusch, Globe Correspondent

    Sabi Varga and Gabor Kapin, who have been friends since their childhood in Hungary and are dancers with the Boston Ballet, get together often to cook food from home.

    Recipes:

    * Rantott hus (Hungarian breaded cutlet)

    * Cucumber salad

    ---------------

    First Draft | location, location

    The Berkshires have something for every taste. Not the mountains -- although they're nice, too -- but the portfolio of ales made by the Berkshire Brewing Company.

    ---------------

    Winter heats up at South End spot

    Winter is a good time for heat -- not just the kind that emanates from radiators, but the warmth from the unwavering spice of chilies. The pungent pods of the capsicum family season foods with gentle -- or not so gentle -- heat that is especially satisfying at this time of year.

    Recipe:

    * Chipotle braised short ribs

  10. Toronto Star – February 21, 2007

    Eating on the fly

    By Jennifer Bain

    If food fanatics ran the world, Jamie Kennedy and Susur Lee would be presiding over restaurants in the new extension of Terminal 1 at Pearson International Airport.

    ---------------

    Lager with a kick is a reminder of old Brooklyn

    By Josh Rubin

    After the enforced teetotalling era ended in 1933, just a handful started up again. Even those hardy remainders petered out after a few years, victims of indifference and consolidation in the beer industry across the United States.

    ---------------

    Outpouring of the best

    By Gordon Stimmell

    Once a year the best in Ontario wines are celebrated at Cuvée. This time, the gala takes place overlooking Niagara Falls at the posh Fallsview Casino Resort on March 3. Eight local chefs will whip up mouthwatering morsels while patrons wade through 160 of Ontario's finest wines poured by 50 wineries.

    ---------------

    Eat your baby vegetables

    By Jennifer Bain

    Eating your daily allotment of vegetables is a pleasure when you give them the star treatment.

    Recipes:

    * Spaghetti with Lemon & Creamy Spinach

    * Roasted Baby Carrots With Ginger-Lemon Vinaigrette

    ---------------

    It's rush hour at takeout counters

    By Nelia Raposo

    Furtado's goal is to have a freshly made dinner on the table by 7 p.m., but that rarely happens. Most nights, her family opts for takeout like "pizza and wings, Swiss Chalet or good old Burger King."
  11. Boston Globe – February 21, 2007

    Seeing red

    Enough of trendy. We want old-fashioned Italian.

    By Leigh Belanger

    Trendy Italian dining may shun marinara as old-fashioned these days. Still, the lure of red sauce draws us to those little, usually family-run spots that serve enormous portions of bruschetta, chicken parmigiano, spaghetti and meatballs, and frutti di mare.

    For more information:

    * Getting to the meat of good, hearty Bolognese sauce

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    A feast fit for Oscar, cineastes, and gourmands

    By Beverly Levitt, Globe Correspondent

    If there were an Oscar for "best use of food in a film," Pedro Almodóvar's "Volver" would surely win at the awards ceremony Sunday. In "Volver," Penelope Cruz, who has been nominated for an Oscar for best actress, plays Raimunda, a resilient young mother with no luck but enough culinary talent to turn adversity into accomplishment.

    Recipes:

    * Tortilla espanola

    * Pisto manchego

    ---------------

    A chicken in every pot

    These days, humble coq au vin (French for "rooster in wine") doesn't contain a rooster, nor is it modest.

    Recipe:

    * Coq au vin

    ---------------

    Pastrami with a new twist

    I'll pastrami anything," says Jason Santos, chef of Gargoyles on the Square. He features seasoned and smoked "pastrami style" duck breasts on his menu at the Davis Square restaurant, and says customers love the slightly salty taste and tender meat.

    Recipe:

    * Duck pastrami with tomato- molasses sauce

    ---------------

    A taste of home away from home

    By Caitlin O'Neil, Globe Correspondent

    Just ask Denyce Wicht. A Bostonian for almost five years, she hails from Milwaukee, where much of the fare draws on the native food of German settlers. To celebrate her home state, Wicht recently hosted a "Wispride" night featuring bratwurst boiled in beer and browned on the grill, with sauerkraut and German potato salad, all washed down with one of Milwaukee's many regional brews.

    Recipes:

    * Bratwurst in beer

    * Seattle salmon dip

    * California red tomato salsa

    ---------------

    This rich, fruity treat fills the senses

    Recipe:

    * Winter cake

  12. Boston Globe – February 14, 2007

    Recipes for dummies

    Instructions are getting longer and more detailed as we fill in more and more blanks for the growing number of people who don't know their way around the kitchen

    By Susan Sampson

    We don't believe home cooks are dumb and dumber. We want to help them, not insult them. But recipes are being dumbed down to keep up with the changing times. 

    Simple recipes

    * Soft Polenta With Sausage Ragu

    * Caramel Apple Cake

    ---------------

    Wines to warm the heart

    By Gordon Stimmell

    Normally, on Valentine's Day, I would sing the praises of playful wines, like light and lively rosés. But it's been so cold outside recently, I have opted for wines with more flesh to them.

    ---------------

    Spice up your meals

    By Jennifer Bain

    To get you through the February blahs, we offer a spicy trio of warming meals.

    * Spicy Peanut Noodles

    * West African Chicken and Peanut Stew

    * Green Chili With Pork

    ---------------

    Organic `heroes'

    The Canadian Organic Growers has doled out its first annual awards for Organic Organization Hero, Organic Supporter Hero, Best Restaurant Serving Organic Food and Organic Media Hero.
  13. Boston Globe – February 14, 2007

    Romancing the stove

    Food and romance mix when couples open a restaurant

    By Alison Arnett, Globe Staff

    Romance is an element of any restaurant, so it's no wonder that there are plenty of couples in the business. Some of the restaurants are in the glittery high end of the business. Others, like Gulu-Gulu Cafe, in this city's gritty Central Square, are lively versions of coffee houses. Many young couples start small, bringing their hopes and love to modest storefronts.

    ---------------

    Sugary treats

    Gaufres de Liege are crispy, caramelized sugar waffles. In Belgium, sugar waffles are street food. They are neat and portable, and not at all like the fluffy, whipped cream and fruit topped waffles on your hotel room service cart.

    Recipe:

    * Gaufres de liege (Sugar waffles)

    ---------------

    Chinese welcome new year in a whole fish way

    By Kimberly W. Moy, Globe Correspondent

    Whole fish will be served on most Chinese tables next weekend. (Chinese New Year, marking the Year of the Pig, falls on Sunday.) "It's traditional for Chinese New Year, with the head and tail on," says Connie Moy (no relation to writer) of Pearl Villa Seafood Restaurant in Chinatown.

    Recipe:

    * Steamed whole fish

    ---------------

    Shrimp are winter's Maine attraction

    By Deborah Kops, Globe Correspondent

    If you like to eat locally harvested food, the pickings are pretty slim right now. But at sea food counters, glistening mounds of tiny, bright coral Maine shrimp outshine just about everything else.

    Recipe:

    * Eggs on cocotte with fresh Maine shrimp

  14. Toronto Star – February 7, 2007

    Looking sharp

    By IAN HARVEY

    Choosing a good set of knives is the beginning of a relationship that can last a generation or longer. And what makes a great knife is more than just the name on the blade or the packaging.

    ---------------

    Khash and other Azeri adventures

    Joanna Smith reviews Caspian Wave on Wilson Avenue.

    ---------------

    Lamb can take the heat

    The test kitchen provides recipes for:

    * Roast Boneless Leg of Lamb With Cumin-Pepper Crust

    * Cauliflower Soup With Cilantro Crème Fraîche

    ---------------

    A lemon by any other name

    By Amy Pataki

    A thin skin is not a good thing to have. Except if you're a lemon.

    Such is the case with the Meyer lemon, so called because it was first imported to the United States from China by botanist Frank Meyer in 1908. A cross between a lemon and a mandarin, it is sweeter, smaller and rounder than a regular lemon.

    ---------------

    To be eaten only on Feb. 14

    Jennifer Bain provides recipes for:

    * Chocolate Truffle Tart

  15. Boston Globe – February 7, 2007

    A cut above

    Rib-eye steaks are rich and juicy, but a panel of tasters finds that not all rib-eyes are equal

    By Jonathan Levitt, Globe Correspondent

    Last week we picked up rib-eyes from six markets around Boston: Costco Wholesale, John Dewar & Company, Roche Bros., Shaw's, Stop & Shop, and Whole Foods Market. We stopped by without placing any orders, looking for basic steaks, nothing prime -- except for John Dewar, which only sells prime -- or dry aged. Then a group met at The Blue Room in Kendall Square for an informal taste test.

    For more information:

    * Meat that makes the grade

    ---------------

    Restaurants know steaks have the juice

    By Alison Arnett, Globe Staff

    Americans are known for steak lust. Many diners swear by their favorite steakhouse, and every restaurant worth its salt offers a juicy steak. This, in fact, is an economic necessity: There's usually one customer at each table who demands steak and will settle for nothing else.

    ---------------

    On the Menu: Chicken ballotine

    Chicken is often dismissed as dull and ubiquitous, but most chefs feel compelled to keep a version on their menu. At the understated and earnest Salts in Cambridge, chicken ballotine ($26) looks so simple when it's set at your place.

    ---------------

    Cookbook Review: Teacherly tome provides luscious lessons

    T. Susan Chang reviews Making Artisan Chocolates, By Andrew Garrison Shotts, Quarry Press, 176 pp., $24.99.

    ---------------

    Pillsbury runner-up perseveres

    By Lisa Zwirn, Globe Correspondent

    Few cakes have a history like the 40-year-old tunnel of fudge recipe, which won second place in the 17th Pillsbury Bake-Off Contest in 1966. It was submitted by Ella Rita Helfrich of Houston .

    Recipe:

    * Tunnel of fudge cake

  16. Toronto Star – January 31, 2007

    Sexy farmers and the end of organic?

    Eating organic isn't good enough. It's becoming better to buy locally, know where your food comes from and befriend farmers

    By Jen Gerson

    "The hysteria over arugula or heirloom tomatoes, the explosion of farmers' markets, the desire to meet face-to-face each week with the person who grew your nourishment goes deeper than just food. It may just be part of a desperate longing to be part of the real world," Ableman says.

    ---------------

    Got a beef with your butcher?

    By Susan Sampson

    You ask for, say, a skirt steak, and get a blank look. You look through sterile, plastic packages for a substitute, but the meat is carved so badly you don't care anymore. You yearn for information but receive the unkindest cut of all – having the butcher shrug at you after a long session of hunting and gathering for dinner.

    ---------------

    Hopping along in Ontario

    By Josh Rubin

    Since 2001, Mason has been brewing some of the hoppiest – and therefore most bitter – beers in the province, in his role as brewmaster/owner at Scotch Irish Brewing Co. in the Ottawa-area town of Fitzroy Harbour.

    ---------------

    Friendly Italian sippers

    By Gordon Stimmell

    Wines streaming from lesser known regions, where grape prices haven't gone sky high, make a big difference. Southern Italy, in particular, has really come on strong recently.

    ---------------

    U.S. chef dishes up splatterproof book

    Jennifer Bain reviews Charlie Palmer's Practical Guide to the New American Kitchen.

  17. Boston Globe – January 31, 2007

    Around the world in 8 ways

    The snacks at these Allston eateries emit an international flavor

    By Jonathan Levitt, Globe Correspondent

    There is no food on the street here, but there's street food galore. Inside dozens of colorful storefronts, little snacks and sips and quick bites are offered from around the world.

    For more information:

    * Snacks' eclectic flavors intersect in Allston

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    Boning up on technique yields dish that's easy to warm up to

    By Jonathan Levitt, Globe Correspondent

    On frosty nights, make believe that you've just tended to your beaver and bear traps and you're trudging back to the cabin for a feast of something that has been simmering all day on the cook-stove. Braised beef short ribs with buttery mashed potatoes could be that meal. Nick Terrafranca, chef of 28 Degrees in the South End, cooks the bony beef with rich stock and good red wine in the classic Burgundian style.

    ---------------

    Score a touchdown with tropical tastes

    By Keri Fisher, Globe Correspondent

    Ignore the weather. Turn on the game and party like you're in South Florida. To transport your guests to Dolphin Stadium and a balmy 80 degrees, all you need is a Cuban sandwich and an icy mojito.

    Recipes:

    * Mojitos

    * Cuban sandwiches

    ---------------

    It's the Key to a winning lime pie

    By Jennifer Wolcott, Globe Correspondent

    The popular dessert was invented in the middle of the 19th century by residents of the Florida Keys, then called "Conchs." It migrated onto menus far from its birthplace, as chefs became smitten with its refreshing, pungent flavor, light consistency, and simple elegance.

    Recipe:

    * Key lime pie

    ---------------

    Ward off chill winds with New World wines

    his particular group is an eclectic collection with nothing more in common than their New World provenance and a robust, flavorful profile that makes for ideal winter-weight sipping -- leftovers or no.
  18. Toronto Star – January 24, 2007

    Born to cook

    By Susan Sampson

    You won't find Luke Hayes-Alexander hanging out at the mall or "facebooking" online. He has, however, butchered a whole pig as he goes about mastering the ancient art of charcuterie. He spends his spare money on cookbooks.

    Recipe:

    * Cod a Scapece

    * Crispy Black Beluga Lentils

    ---------------

    Here's gude ale for Rabbie day

    By Josh Rubin

    When Scots the world over gather tomorrow in honour of national poet Robbie Burns, the beverage of choice for many will be a dram or two (or 12) of single malt scotch.

    ---------------

    Wine's scrappy duo

    By Gordon Stimmell

    The couple first ran afoul of the LCBO in 1990 when the monopoly declared it had no shelf space for their wines. A decade-long legal battle ensued between these Davids and the Goliath that controls all aspects of wine in Ontario. Who won isn't clear, but in a mediated settlement, the LCBO began carrying some Magnotta icewines in select stores in 2000.

    ---------------

    Fresh baked goods

    By Katherine Elphick

    Considering the 25-year-old Holtom is a third-generation baker, his positive attitude to early wake-up calls might be genetic. Established in 1946 by Holtom's paternal grandfather, and later operated by his father, the family bakery has been a mainstay in the village with a population of about 2,500.

    Recipes:

    * Gluten-Free Chocolate Chip Cookies

    * Chelsea Truffles

    * Dorio's Carrot Cake With Cream Cheese Icing

    * Holtom's Bakery Pumpkin Muffins

  19. Boston Globe – January 24, 2007

    Burger crawl

    Sampling some local joints that offer fun on a bun

    By Jonathan Levitt, Globe Correspondent

    We went in search of burgers that hit the mark every time, with freshly ground meat shaped into patties on the premises, were just lifted out of their fat baths onto the plate. But what’s a great burger if the setting detracts from the experience? In the end, some good burgers were a real bargain, and others — like the one at Publick House — cost a little more, but the atmosphere made up for it.

    For more information:

    * Some burger joints are cheesier than others

    ---------------

    There's nothing stale about bread pudding

    By Andrea Pyenson, Globe Correspondent

    It can be quite humble -- an excuse to use up stale bread -- or the grand finale to a special menu. Bread puddings, once make-do desserts, can be simple mixtures of bread, eggs, milk, and sugar. But their beauty lies in their versatility.

    Recipe:

    * English toffee bread pudding

    ---------------

    It's time to take stock of veggie stews

    By Linda Laban, Globe Correspondent

    To some, a vegetable stew summons thoughts of dishwater broth with mushy root vegetables and some white beans that refuse to soften. In fact, the choices for vegetarians are far more appealing , and top chefs are offering customers some fine food.

    Recipes:

    * Calabacitas

    * Dressing for silken tofu

    * Curried lentil stew with lemon balm raita

    ---------------

    Lavish Leftovers

    When you think of a good, old-fashioned American supper, shepherd's pie should come to mind. This warming dish, which originated in Scotland or northern England, is a crustless pie filled with lamb and roasted root vegetables, and topped with mashed potato.

    Recipe:

    * Shepherd’s Pie

    ---------------

    Meal is welcome in the wee hours

    By Jane Dornbusch, Globe Correspondent

    Never let it be said that Swedes don't know how to have a good time. While they enjoy breakfast, lunch, and dinner, they have also designated a separate meal category, called vickning, for foods that might be consumed late at night -- past midnight, at least -- after an evening spent partying.

    Recipe:

    *

    Swedish Hash

  20. Toronto Star – January 10, 2007

    Dip, douse and dunk

    By Linda Barnard

    Once his mom explained about the melted cheeses and bread cubes, Mackie, who was clearly destined to be a chef (he now helms the stoves at Far Niente at Bay and Wellington Sts.) insisted on making this mysterious fondue concoction and trying out the long-abandoned pot.

    For more information:

    * Dos and don'ts for fondue fans

    Fondue Recipes

    * Fondue With Truffle Honey & Hazelnuts

    * Classic Neuchâtel Fondue

    ---------------

    Comfort me with PB&J

    Ina Garten has carved out a niche for herself as the Barefoot Contessa. Her latest book is The Barefoot Contessa At Home: Everyday Recipes You'll Make Over and Over Again (2006, $45).

    Recipe:

    * Peanut Butter & Jam Bars

    ---------------

    How about this vintage treat?

    By Josh Rubin

    Thomas Hardy's Ale, named for the author of classic novels such as Tess of the d'Urbervilles and The Trumpet-Major, went on sale this week at Beerbistro, a King St. gastropub carrying select suds from around the world and across the country.

    ---------------

    Big chill needed for icewine

    By Gordon Stimmell

    Winemakers are sweating it out, playing the waiting game. They need up to three days and nights of -8C temperatures to harvest their frozen grapes and gently press the golden, precious nectar that becomes our world-famous icewine.
  21. Boston Globe – January 10, 2007

    The banana's appeal extends to the Fair Trade movement

    By Alison Arnett, Globe Staff

    Walk into any grocery store -- even a convenience store -- and the first thing you're likely to see is a display of bananas, sometimes on a rack close to the entrance, seductively within easy reach. Easy enough for 85 percent of American households to buy the bright yellow fruits.

    Related content:

    * A BUNCH OF KEY DATES

    * For a fancy dessert, go bananas

    Recipes:

    * Banana pudding

    * Banana crumb cake

    * Chocolate-stuffed bananas

    ---------------

    This former church draws flocks of barbecue fans

    By T. Susan Chang, Globe Correspondent

    WEST HATFIELD -- The small church set in the picturesque rolling hills of the Connecticut River Valley is open to all on Sundays. It's also open several other days of the week. In fact, it's not a church, but an alter to pork.

    ---------------

    Cookbook Review: A treasure trove of homey, frugal fare

    By T. Susan Chang, Globe Correspondent

    Black Forest Cuisine: The Classic Blending of European Flavors, By Walter Staib with Jennifer Lindner McGlinn, Running Press, 320 pp., $35

    The cooking of Mitteleuropa -- the Central European region mainly comprised of Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and the Czech Republic -- has been taking off in restaurants and on the cookbook shelf lately. Walter Staib's new "Black Forest Cuisine: The Classic Blending of European Flavors" centers on one of that part of the world's most storied neighborhoods, Germany's Black Forest.

    Recipes:

    * Lentil soup

    * Green bean and mushroom salad

  22. Boston Globe – January 3, 2007

    Market grains

    A cookbook author is sold on quinoa and its kin

    By Sheryl Julian, Globe Staff

    Teff is the tiniest grain and is often turned into the spongy Ethiopian bread, injera. Next comes amaranth; each pale dot is smaller than the head of a straight pin. The third smallest is quinoa (pronounced KEEN-wa), an important source of protein for the ancient Incas.

    Recipes:

    * Farro risotto

    * Cooked millet

    * Shrimp, corn, and quinoa soup

    * Millet with buttermilk and chives

    ---------------

    Chapter and verse on vegetarianism

    By Jonathan Levitt, Globe Correspondent

    He also began collecting vegetarian cookbooks and other related ephemera, until he had more than 200 American and British volumes and periodicals dating from the 17th century to the present, as well as menus, autographs of well-known vegetarians, even a plastic guitar pick belonging to the late Linda McCartney.

    Recipe:

    * Nut Scrapple

    * Roasted eggplant with tahini

    ---------------

    A low-calorie bowl

    If cauliflower made an appearance on the holiday table, it was likely cloaked in a cheese-filled white sauce, covered with breadcrumbs, and baked. This member of the cabbage family, a descendant of broccoli, has a mild, nutty flavor that pairs well with rich dairy products.

    Recie:

    * Cauliflower soup

    ---------------

    On Vineyard, family history is full of beans

    By Clea Simon, Globe Correspondent

    For Cynthia Riggs, Boston baked beans are more than a dish. They're family history. "My mother always talked about my great-grandmother making Boston baked beans," recalls Riggs, a 13th-generation Islander, as residents of Martha's Vineyard prefer to be called.

    Recipe:

    * Baked beans

  23. Toronto Star – January 3, 2007

    Chicken curries six ways

    So you think curry can be pigeonholed into one generic medley? We explore a sextet of regional variations

    By Smita and Sanjeev Chandra

    Nothing makes Indians more nostalgic than the aroma of a dish that evokes memories of the area they grew up in. The most noticeable difference between dishes from different regions lies in the spices used to make them.

    Recipes:

    * Classic Chicken Curry

    * Hyderabadi Kofta Curry

    * Cashew Butter Chicken

    * Kerala Chicken Curry

    * Chicken Vindaloo

    * Kashmiri Chicken Curry

    ---------------

    How to go bananas in Toronto

    By Linda Nguyen

    People have always been bananas for bananas. Sure, you can just peel and eat them, make a mushy peanut butter and banana sandwich, or bake banana bread. But creative Toronto chefs are working this humble fruit into inspiring dishes.

    ---------------

    Greek showcase

    By Gordon Stimmell

    While Greece now makes super-premium reds, few make it to our shores. The problem is folks simply balk at buying Greek wines at $30 to $80 a bottle. That's a shame. However, in the affordable realm, bargains abound. Just ask the Greek Canadians who operate and patronize restaurants on the Danforth. They know how to keep a secret.

    Wines:

    * Kouros 2003 Nemea Red $9.95 (Greece)

    * Calliga 2004 Agiorgitiko Dry Red $11.95 (Greece)

    * Ampelou Gis 2003 Red $14.20 (Greece)

    ---------------

    Golden Whisk Awards

    By Jennifer Bain and Susan Sampson

    Welcome to our second annual Golden Whisk Awards. From the hundreds of recipes we tested this year, we’ve picked our top 10.

    Recipes:

    * Green & Yellow String Bean Soup With Dill

    * Lamb Popsicles With Fenugreek Cream Sauce

    * Chilled Corn & Chicken Soup with Tomato, Avocado & Cilantro Salsa

    * Cowboy Skillet Steaks

    * Spinach Salad Tossed With Pesto & Peas

    * Sweet Potato & Sausage Hash

    * Roasted Broccoli With Breadcrumb Gremolata

    * Smoky Tomato Butter

    * Edamame With Tea-Smoked Salt

    * Guajillo-Braised Pork & Yukon Gold Potatoes

    ---------------

    It's nearly beer

    By Josh Rubin

    Brewers and other beverage makers have stepped into the breach with non-alcoholic beers. Most of them are, quite frankly, wretched and what little flavour they've got comes from non-barley grain "adjuncts" like corn or rice. Beck's, on the other hand, makes a non-alcoholic tipple that actually resembles the real stuff.
  24. Toronto Star – December 20, 2006

    Christmas fish

    For some Italian families, Christmas Eve means indulging in a meal called The Seven Fishes. Our writer decides it's time to refresh the menu.

    By Richard Ouzounian

    Recipes:

    * Merluzzini Con Lo Zenzero

    * Risotto Dell'aragosta

    * Zuppa di Cozze

    * Insalata del Calamari

    * Gamberi con Arancia e Basilico

    * Pasta Puttanesca

    * Branzini alla Griglia in Sale del Mare e Limone

    * Zabaglione Freddo

    ---------------

    More than just a pretty name

    By Pamela Steel

    Port Sydney, ONT.–Jerusalem artichokes are neither from Jerusalem, nor are they artichokes. These yummy tubers are native to North America and the plant, Helianthus tuberosus, is part of the sunflower family. The original Indian name translates to the more apt sunroot or sunchoke.

    Recipes:

    * Sunchoke & Potato Soup

    * Warm Sunchoke & Smoked Chicken Salad

    ---------------

    Seasonal beer spices up life

    By Josh Rubin

    The term "biological experiment" conjures up images of serious, white-coated scientists in a lab, or perhaps an old breakfast your roommate left in the dorm-room fridge. Fortunately for beer drinkers, there's a more palatable kind of experiment.
  25. Boston Globe – December 20, 2006

    Mangia! (x7)

    Many Italian-American families celebrate Christmas Eve by feasting on courses of fish

    By Jonathan Levitt, Globe Correspondent

    What they and many other Italian - Americans call the Feast of the Seven Fishes (some people say it represents the seven sacraments of the Catholic Church), is as much a tradition for her as it was for her parents' family in the old country.

    Recipes:

    * Crabbies

    * Anne Pizzi’s lobster sauce

    * Marianne Tortola's squid meatballs

    * Donata Tortola’s vuticigli (little toads)

    * Marietta Tortola's oven-fried smelts

    * Sue Cotoni's baccala

    * Anne Pizzi's baked shrimp

    ---------------

    Move over, Shirley Temple

    By Wendy Fox, Globe Correspondent

    Some Boston-area chefs have added entire menus of nonalcoholic drinks that go with food — as opposed to, say, Virgin Marys and Shirley Temples that are really before-dinner drinks — while others have added one or two juice-based specialties that aren’t too fruity for a hearty holiday repast.

    * Aromatic almond elixir

    * Pomegranate-pineapple pleasure

    * Tarragon lemonade

    * Poinsettias

    * Orange-mint julep

    ---------------

    Sweet story spans cultures, eras

    By Ann Cortissoz, Globe Staff

    My grandfather, Gilberto Cortissoz, bought a candy factory in El Salvador in the mid-1920s. The factory had become his dream when he lived in Colombia, and the dream inspired him to move to New York to earn the money. At his factory, Gilberto made taffy, gumdrops, and butterscotch, among other sweets.

    Recipe:

    * Vanilla caramels

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