Bill Klapp

While it is hard not to say buffala, I vote for a tie between Toma d' Elva and Montebore, both legendary Piemontese cheeses.

Holy moley! All of the stars come out for Mike Alberts! Galloni, Parsons, the blogiste extraordinaire! Mike, this is not an area that I have explored, but I can offer you two meager words: hot dogs. This region produces, without question, the best hot dogs that I have ever eaten, period. Forget about Pink's. Forget about Papaya King in NYC. The key is "puro suino". Imagine an all-beef frankfurter made from Kobe beef. They are THAT good. You can trust me on this, as in all things. I even forgive you for cheating on the Piemonte this trip!

Ah, the gastronomically rich get richer in the Piemonte! Couple that with the Porto Palazzo mercato, and you ought to be able to put together a decent dinner in Torino!

What pix! What a report! I love Il Latini. But for the fact that I had a generous schmeer of chopped liver on my Carnegie Deli pastrami last weekend, the crostini would have made me weep uncontrollably! And indeed, one of my fondest memories of my ex (a petite and fit woman, mind you) was watching her wolf down one of those T-bones at Il Latini, which must have weighed at least 2 1/2 pounds! Everybody at the table stopped eating, and just stared at her in awe!

It should be noted that the Piemontese, and I assume pretty much all Italiani, achieve variety by eating only what is in season, and the most discerning Piemontese make a point of eating most fruits and vegetables only at the very peak of the season. They preserve in peak season also, which explains why their preserved fruits and vegetables are among the world's best. Very unlike the U.S., where most produce is available year-round...and is generally flavorless. I believe that the phenomenon of "eating the seasons", perhaps even more than the distain for "foreign" foods, accounts for Italian eating habits...

And Helen, consider that Maureen is in Rome. Torino spawned a few ethnic ristoranti in anticipation of the 2006 Winter Olympics, and Milano, being the New York City of Italia, is chock full of non-Italian restaurants, but aside from that, only "cinese" (Chinese) seems to enjoy any currency in Italy at all, and in most cases, it is (a) bad, at least by American standards, and (b) dominated by pasta/noodle dishes that are more Italian than Chinese, anyway. I second what Russ said as well. Tuscan or Ligurian food would quality as "foreign" in the Piemonte. One of the most exotic places near me in Neive is a Sardinian fish house!

Peter, I was so surprised by the report on Il Centro, whose star has been continually on the rise over the past several years since Enrico's wife replaced his mother in the kitchen that I dispatched my ex, her husband and a friend there for dinner this week! I have to conclude that you must have hit a rare off-night or a combination of dishes that didn't suit for some reason. All three said that their meal was sheer perfection, especially the fried acacia blossoms drizzled with acacia honey!

For those that have a working knowledge of Italian food terms (or at least can decipher numeric or symbolic ratings schemes!), add to L'Espresso the following: Veronelli, Piccinardi and Massobrio's two Guida Criticas for Piemonte and Lombardia, respectively. Along with Michelin's Red Guide, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d' Italia, Plotkin and Willinger, that is pretty much the reliable critical universe on Italian ristoranti, and all that you could possibly need or want. Great to hear that a new edition of Fred Plotkin's guide is on its way. His cookbooks are killer stuff also...

Sampaguita, it is Arco that has experienced a downturn in Alba. Re: Belvedere, it is certainly not cutting-edge, but there is the location, the charming host, the strong wine list and a fine, all-around experience during truffle season. In a way, it is almost "home cooking" compared to some of the newer, fancier places. I still love it, but by the same token, could not justify putting it at the top of my list...

I, too, am not a huge fan of Da Renzo. I do not think that it is at all bad. I do, however, believe that there are many better and less expensive ristoranti in the area. I have experienced the same underseasoned/flavorless issues that Matthew complains of. I have never understood all of the recent critical hoopla over Da Renzo. Sampaguita, I cannot imagine where a negative review of Lalibera came from, unless the author couldn't get a table! And pedalaforte, you must have had to work to get to $100 a person at Antine, where I think they offer fixed-price menus of 35-40 Euro and there are very few pricy bottles on the winelist. Plenty of truffles, perhaps?

fortedei, I understand your comment about Cesare, but I am not sure that it is true anymore. I saw him at the recent Slowfood event in Torino, and an Italian friend noticed that he was drinking a beer while all attendees were being served wine. My friend asked about it, and Cesare quite candidly admitted to a drinking problem for some years, so that he has sworn off wine now. The food that he served there was spectacular, and all reports I hear are that he is back and better than ever. I do think that, to maximize the experience there (if you can find the place!), it is best to go in the late fall for the white truffles and game. Il Centro is my current fave...

Sampaguita, no truffles at the Autogrill, but a decent panino, a sometimes excellent crostada and, at certain times of the year, fresh squeezed juice from the blood oranges of Sicilia! I would be skeptical of the tartufi at La Contea as well. I think that Tonino studied marketing in the U.S.!

I, too, have a retirement home in Neive, and while others may make their claims (including the ever-popular "most of the truffles at the Alba fair come from Croatia" which, even if true, doesn't matter, because the fair is over before the best truffles are even available in November), it is hard to imagine any better truffles than those from the area around Alba. The best that I have ever had come from Monchiero. I have also learned that the best truffles, and often the whitest for some reason, come from the roots of oak trees rather than chestnut or hazelnut.

Christine, I was just there (10/27 through 11/6; I tried to have lunch on Thursday 11/2 without a reservation, but couldn't get in, possibly because you had my table, but pulled the same stunt on Friday with success), but there was no ovuli reali insalata to be found. I am SO jealous! (Oh, sure, I had the vitello tonnato and the tajarin with tartufi bianchi, and they were wonderful, but hey, November in the Langhe, it is not like it is all that difficult to find white truffles!) If you are there again in the fall, be on the lookout for porcini baked in a bag (porcini en papillote?). It will make you weep openly and shamelessly. Also, don't miss the sweet pepper rolatini stuffed with tuna, capers and homemade mayonnaise. The breadsticks don't suck, either!

pedalaforte, I can speak to Rabaja in Barbaresco only, and I say pass. It is low-key, local and very friendly, but aside from the pasta, the food is not anything special. For a truly great experience of that kind, make it Trattoria del Peso in Castagnito (open for LUNCH ONLY every day but Monday). Truffles should be great then. I had the one I brought back last night here in the U.S., and it was stunning. The only place that I ever stop for lunch between Malpensa and Neive is the Autogrill, the Howard Johnson's of the Autostrada. Let me suggest this: depending upon their timing and hunger, as you exit the rental car counter area of Malpensa and first arrive in the garage where you pick up your car, there is a grocery/deli place on the right (does not open until 11AM, sadly) that, at the rear of the store, has some of the best panini that you will ever eat. Centro, Antine and Lalibera are all open for lunch on Thursday and Friday, I believe. And if these people insist upon going to Toscana after all that you have told them, maybe it is time to look for new friends!

Il Centro in Priocca is better than ever, and not to be missed. Ditto Antine in Barbaresco, and Lalibera in Alba. Did not make it to Guido in Pollenzo this trip, but word has it that the inconsistency of its early days that I once complained of here is gone. You may also want to consider Da Cesare in Albaretto. Saw him at the Salone del Gusto in Torino, and after a few strange years where his son took over his ristorante and he opened another up the street (he admits to a 4-bottle a day wine problem during that time!), he is back in his own kitchen and at the top of his game. Cascina Cornale is a great place for the local food preservationist work that it does, but the meals at its ristorante rarely measure up to the prevailing high quality standard in that area of the Piemonte.

If he has retired, he was still using his press pass!

More stuff to come from me later. I got to spend quality time with Cesare of Da Cesare and Davide Scabin of Combal.Zero, and also ran into Jeffrey Steingarten, author, Vogue's food editor and a previous guest of eGullet...

Mike, as much as it pains me to say this, some varieties of those "Super Omega-3 Plus" types of eggs that come packaged in half-dozens in clear plastic cartons actually have orange yolks and get the job done. They are overpriced and no better than any other egg from a taste point of view, but they can deliver the color. And Mike-40 yolks a kilo is fewer than 20 a pound! Here is the trick-1 to 3 WHOLE eggs per pound, and the rest yolks. The whole eggs give you the necessary traction. Doing that, I can get 20 yolks into a pound, thus besting the Boccondivino record. On the other hand, I will never make tajarin the quality of that at Antine in Barbaresco, or even Lalibera in Alba...

Withdrawal symptoms, Mike? There is a place here in Chapel Hill called A Southern Season that has it, but no doubt not called tajarin. They have a website and they ship, but since they feature a limited number of things on their website, better that I should send you a couple of packages next time that I am up there. Do you have a copy of Matt Kramer's cookbook A Passion for Piedmont? If not< I will send you one of those, too. Then you can buy an Impero pasta machine and make your own!

Truffles are perfectly legal to bring into the U.S., but there is always the issue of what price to declare! I had an extended discussion with someone in Washington a couple of years ago, and the USDA believes that truffles are mushrooms, period, and that it is legal to bring mushrooms into the U.S. Don't ask me why, but it is true. I am headed over at the end of the month, and it is probably too early to say for sure what the overall quality will be for this truffle season, but I can offer this for those travelling to Alba: Gigi, the owner of Sapori del Gusto (a bookshop that sells food items also) on the main shopping drag in Alba, Via Emanuelle II (also called Via Mestre by the locals), will have good truffles if good truffles are to be had, and if he has none, it may be a commentary on quality. Ponzi on Via Mestre can also deliver quality, but rarely cheaply. Do NOT store your truffles in risotto rice! The flavor and aroma leach into the rice, and you end up with fragrant rice and a lousy truffle. Store (or travel with) the truffle in a sealed container, wrapped in a MOIST but not wet paper towel or napkin. (If the paper is so moist that the truffle is taking on the moisture, it is too wet.) Keep it in the refrigerator when not travelling, and change the moist towel every day. That done, the truffle should last a week, but always better to eat as soon as possible. One last note: despite what I just said, it is possible for a newly plucked truffle to actually GAIN flavor and aroma with time, but I would not count on it. I was shocked when that happened with a truffle last year that was only OK upon first use.

Alberts, are you finally out of my house? And I am glad to hear that you were waylaid by the salame dude in the Alba market. His samples forced on me have ruined many a Saturday lunch!

Matthew, sorry. However, the ristoranti are so far-flung that there is no ready solution to your problem. For example, Cervere is a dreadful spot along the main truck route that offers nothing other than Da Renzo. It is relatively close to Bra, but Bra is a town without much to offer relative to Alba, Asti and the attractive smaller towns in the area. (Yes, yes, the Slow Food headquarters and its cafeteria Boccondivino, but for a short trip, I wouldn't even spend a meal there.) I can offer only the Klapp designated driver formula: no alcohol before dinner, only wine with dinner, and consume equal quantities of wine and acua minerale with your food. That keeps me sober until I make it to my bed!

I really cannot imagine trying to see the Alba area without a rental car. Taxis are rare in any but the the major cities of Italy. I suspect that you will spend most of your time waiting for cabs, and it will sour your experience. Driving in the area is no different from driving in small towns in the U.S. If the Autostrada is an issue, take a cab from there to the Alba area, then get a rental car.

Scordelia, your definition raises an interesting point. My Italian friends who supply the grapes always call it the "American grape", and always seem a little amazed that they like them so much, since so few American foods suit them...