jackal10

I often wonder what food can possibly be prepared in those kitchen adverts. What can you make from the ingredients typically displayed: a fresh salmon, some apples, half a dozen eggs, some red peppers, and a bottle of wine?

Guest nights are semi-formal college feasts, where Fellows are encouraged to bring guests, who might inspire or amuse, or be good to know. Its a sort of gentle social networking. I guess its about contacts and influence. I don't know what the price is, since I've never had to pay. I guess it depends on how you calculate it and assign the overheads, since the College has to run the kitchens, the wine cellar and employ the staff anyway. I guess it would be the price of a good meal - say around $50/head.

Wow! two for the price of one! I hope Helen will keep on reporting. Japense food is so deliciou looking! Thank you for an explanation of terms. I now know I should ask for meibutsu when I visit. For an ignorant westerner the noodle dih looks wonderful and delicious, but isn't it a bit low on protein? Or does the tofu provide enough?

Pan: Hundreds and Thousands are multi-coloured sugar sprinkles. They were originally sugar coated seeds, I believe. Michaelmas is October time, and is not a Bank holiday as such. Goose is traditional, but only for food historians. The Autumn university term is still called "Michaelmas term"

Prove means ferment. Strictly it is the second fermentation shaped into the final loaves, the first is called bulk fermentation. Retard means cooling the dough to slow down the fermentation. Besides making timing easier, it also allows a fuller flavour to develop, and the cold dough is easier to handle.

Fishcakes for supper. Salmon and the remains of the salt cod. Salad. White Rhone (Vieux Telegraph 96) Fruit and Mince Pies. That's it. Its been fun. Thankyou for listening, and downloading 90 pix. Digital camera's are wonderful... Handing the baton over to Tokaris (Kristin), for a blog I'm really looking forward to...

Nah, can't be a Dagwood. No dill pickle... Nice review in today's Times by Giles Coren of Midsummer House, the restaurant I started. Doesn't seem to be online, yet, however. I sold the restaurant about 15 years ago. Fortunately I owned the freehold, so the increase in property price made up for the losses in trading. They've kept the logo, designed by David Kindersley for me, which is my piece of vanity being my initials, (JAL) upside down The current chef, Daniel Clifford, has gained the restaurant a Michelin Star, and cooks in a post-modern style. I'll hand over to tokaris after supper tonight, for what promises to be a fascinating Japanese experience.

Baked off the bread. The cracklature on the crust is enhanced by its overnight retardation. Keeping the dough in the fridge overmight slightly dries the outside, so you get the fine bubble. I could not resist making a turkey sandwich for lunch (tho I shouldn't since I've put on 5lbs over Xmas). Bacon (it was going to be a bacon butty, since I was cooking breakfast for the house guests), turkey, stuffing, cranberry, iceberg lettice, and ... a slice of Foie Gras... Sliced the bread a bit too hot, so it tore a bit. Not elegant, but yummy. Obscene. The knife, btw, is my favourite one- a full carbon steel Sabatier 6 inch boning knife. Needs constant sharpening, rusts if you put it in a dishwasher, but an edge like no other.

Babies in restaturants? I don't think I could manage a whole one. St John serves an excellent suckling pig, one per table...

Just finishing the Ch Caillou. Just as nice today. Almost like a soft Maidera - raisins and butterscotch with an underlying citrus note. That same darkness a Christmas pudding has. Sweet, but balanced by the lemony acidity. Amazing!

Both, I hope. Marge is not a resident, but a guest. She departs tomorrow, no doubt to the local wildlife's relief. She certainly prays hard for manna to drop from heaven, but she is a surprisingly well behaved dog. I forgot to mention the various college feasts and Guest nights, that now I am a bye-fellow I get to go to at College expense. The rule for Guest Nights is that you can take anyone except your current or another Fellow's partner.

Bank Holidays are official government holidays, and originally when the Bank of England was shut. They are, for 2004, with foods: Jan 1 New Years Day: April 9 Good Friday: April 12 Easter Monday May 3 May Bank Holiday May 31 Spring Holiday August 30 Summer Bank Holiday Dec 25 Christmas Dec 26 Boxing Day Soup was probably too salt for Marge. She got Pedigree Chum and leftover turkey, before, as dogs should not be fed at table, or they start begging. Holidays with foods mostly follow the religous holidays. Christmas New Year Scottish, also Wassail Easter (Lamb, Simnel cake)Purim (Hamentaschen) Christmas New Year/Wassail and from my Jewish background: Passover: (lots) Purim (Hamen Taschen) Shavout (cheese cake) Rosh Hashonah (Honey cake) Succoth (cinnamon biscuits) Hannukah (Latkes) Next serious feast, after New Year will be my Birthday on Jan 10.

"L'art d'accommoder les restes" says Elizabeth David, quoting a previous edition of Larousse Gastronomic "is not to be considered as the summit od culinary achievment" but rather that there are leftovers is the sign of a badly run household. However Mere David relents enough to allow that some are legitimate. Tonight was peasant: chunky turkey soup (turkey, sausage, leeks, carrots, celery) , good bread, and the remains of the trifle. Coffee and desert.

What's Saveur? A foodie glossy, I guess? I'm afraid my food presentation (like my spelling/typing) leaves much to be desired, but its family stye. Those of Scottish decent (I'm not, my family come from Alsace) will wear kilts for Hogmanay, I expect...with nothing underneath, of course.

Its not over yet...I guess I should hand over either Saturday or Monday am, unless you are bored with my ramblings. Fried Xmas pud is the best...with bacon, sausage (Musks Newmarket Christmas Special), eggs, tomatos, mushrooms...the wimps rejected fried bread, fried potatoes, etc, but had toast and marmelade. Must make more bread - we are getting through it. Tonight we go to the neighbors. I guess its leftover turkey season.

Dismembered the turkey, and am making stock from the carcass. As always about half left - enough for about 10 servings... I plan a brunch for later today when the rest of the household eventually emerges. Really an excuse for fried Christmas pud. New Years's (as I said in the first post to this thread) will be Hogmanay - Scottish theme: Haggis etc, and a tall dark stranger to first-foot with a lump of coal and a bottle of malt whisky...but by then it should be someone else blogging. How long do you want me to go on? Personally I'd love to hear about the Japanese festivities next week. I love Japanese food, but know far too little about real domestic cookery there - we only see restaurant set pieces here. Looks like I might get a trip to Japan in May next year. There is a conference in Kyoto (Hotel Granvia 19-21 May 2004) at which I might speak.

That sounds dangerously like an invitation to be tagged...

I fogot to say that Marge got a roasted marrow bone, and was very pleased with it... She also got to chase (but not able to catch) rabbits, and the pheasants took one look and made themelves scarce Joyeux Noel!

I've eaten and drunk too much (as Hoffning says "Well fed up and agreeably drunk"), and the kitchen looks like a tip. Still there are enough people around to help clear.... More boasting, and my spelling is probably even worse than usual. First the wines. We started with champagne, then claret: Leoville Las Cases (St Julien) 1986 (98 points, but going over) then the ultimate Christmas pudding wine: Ch Le Caillou (Montbazillac) 1943. This story behind this remarkable wine is one of triumph over adversity as told by the person who sold it to me ($100/bottle) goes: "This is a story of tradition and peasant survival in time of war, long before the advent of oenologues and the fashion for early drinking. Our protagonists are M. et Mme. Pierre Eymery, then in their early to mid twenties; the vintage 1943. The Germans are occupying France and requisitioning wine for their own drinking. Chaptalisation is not officially authorised, and even if it were to be practised illegally, there is no sugar to be had. The harvest is dried by fierce wind, and there is little juice in the grapes. The wine is remarkable, reminiscent of the great 1929, but even more concentrated. It must not fall into the hands of the Germans. Pierre’s parents still have that famous ’29 in barrel, ageing gently, and secreted in an underground cellar. They decide to do the same with the ’43 and lodge it in old demi-muids, topping it up from time to time. In 1988, for the marriage of a cherished grandchild, they decide to bottle the wine without fining or filtering, in clear bottles sealed with wax. Shortly after this, I am given a bottle by friends in the area, and finding it extraordinary, persuade them, for cash, to part with a case. In 2002, they contact me again wondering, as M. Pierre is now 85, whether I would like to buy the remaining stocks. I retaste, and find it still quite remarkable, a combination of rich, burnt flavours and incredible freshness; it’s so stable it does not move after being open for three days" Entirely true. Even though its sixty years old, its as fresh as the day it was made, and perfect for Chirstmas. We drunk it with due reverence, but then wine is for drinking, besides I've laid down another case. Back to the prep. Christmas pudding (see egCI Autumn Preserves) on to simmer. Stock from the turkey giblets (except the liver) for the gravy Made the Brandy Butter (4oz softened butter, 4oz soft brown sugar, juice of half a lemon and as much brandy as it will adsorb; whiz together) Prep the turkey (10lb Organic Norfolk Bronze). Put herb and garlic butter under the skin, from the neck end. You can just see the slices of truffles through the skin. Stuff the neck cavity with sausagemeat (with extra onion and pepper). Leave the body unstuffed - just season and an onion and half a lemon. About 3 hours in a very low oven (65C). Get in vegetables from the garden: baby purple sprouts, purple potatoes, yellow carrots and jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes) and prep them Ready for lunch (about 2.30pm, but we paused to watch the Queen's message) Marge the basset hound looking hopeful, but wary of the camera Champagne, caviar and Keta on Blini. I was going to do egg and onion blini as well, but it sort of turned into chopped tukey liver. Mixing my cultures, and showing my background... Croutes of Truffled Brandade, and Tapendade Shot glasses of Consomme with gold leaf. (Remember the braised brisket?) Half an hour in a hot oven to brown the turkey - ended at 55C. Ready to carve. Also a vegetarian low-carb stuffing for the awkward people Made from chestnuts (use cooked sous-vide ones (merchant Gourmet). Peeling chestnut is for others, unless roast by the fire), onions, leeks, garlic, sweated together, and bound with eggs. Half an hour in a loaf tin in a hot oven). Alo the bread sauce. I forgot the chain of sausages and the bacon rolls You can just see the tradtional crackers. When pulled (one person grasps either end) they come apart with a pyrotechnic snap, and the contents spill out. Traditionally these are a small gift, a paper motto with an excrutiating joke, and a paper hat. One pockets the gift, or trades it around the table, put on the hat and reads out loud the joke. Being up market, these had rather nice silver trinkets - mine was a pair of cufflinks. The purple sprouts roasted in olive oil with truffle butter Potatoes and parsnips roasted in goose fat; carrots and artichokes; plain brussels One of our guests had generously brought a Foie Gras Terrine ("I brought some Pate"). Following sklinsky's example I served quenelles of it with the turkey. I can confirm it goes wonderfully with turkey breast, adding richness and smoothness. Which brings us to the Pudding. Pouring flaming brandy over it. You can just see the flames Coffee, sweeties, digestifs... Now I might just be able to manage a little of the Stilton, but then I must go and lie down for a while... Seth: Yes, that is the Membrillo. It is one of the 13 deserts. The other way is to keep it to make lots (in the egCI Autumn preserves). Our Quince tree was very prolific this year.

Christmas morning... I need Coffee.... Breakfast and generally wake up, light the fire. Put he Xmas pud on. I guess we will eat about 2.30pm The turkey will need maybe 3 hours at 65C/150F, so needs to go on about 11.30. I don't know why people get so uptight about cooking turkey - its only a big chicken. Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826) writes about turkey in "La Physiologie du Gout", translated as "The Philosopher in the Kitchen", the book that defines a gourmand and gourmandism. He says "In the high places of gastronomy, at those select gatherings where politics are forced to give way to dissertations upon taste, what do the guests hope for and long for as a second course? A truffled turkey! " In his memory we will add truffles to the turkey. Maybe not "stuffed spherical with Perigord truffles" as he describes, but "en demi-deuil" (in half mourning), with black trufffle slipped under the skin. About 10.30 I will make make some Bloody Mary's, and we will have the Grand Opening of Presents.

Thankyou for the nice words, but it is really a pleasure to give something back for all the great blogs and postings I have read here. You arew such an appreciative audience! Mayhaw: The cheese came from the Cambridge Cheese Company (Jacky Sutton-Adam [jackysuttonadam@ukonline.co.uk]). Good, a little expensive (that was $100 worth of cheese) but the London cheese factors, like Neals Yard are even better - we are just a provincal university town. I expect they would ship to the US but the cost might be prohibitive. I fail to understand why the US bans decent unpastaurised artisan farmhouse cheese, when there is no recorded example of illness caused by them, but many instances of food poisoning from badly made or stored factory cheeses. Christmas eve supper: Reveillon Actually this is really only the first meatless part of Reveillon; Reveillon (the awakening) is the meat supper after midnight mass. Celery and Anchoide (garlic, anchovy and olive oil dip) Soup: L'aigo boulido. Recipe is here "boiled water": garlic and herbs, with olive oil, bread and grated Gruyere croutes. Provence comfort food, reccomended for invalids Saltfish and Ackee: recipe is here Ackee is the fruit of the breadfruit tree. It has the look and texture of scrambled eggs. The saltfish is basically used as a flavouring. Gratin of Cauliflower: cauliflower cheese with the odd hardboiled egg Jill's Famous Trifle "Treize Deserts": the thirteen deserts, plus some, which will stay as a sort of running buffet just in case anyone feel peckish Left (plus Venus Nipples, chocolate ginger, Panneforte) Middle Right (plus fresh lychees and the mince pies) The apples are home grown Laxton Fortune from store We drank, . Domaine Zind-Humbrecht: Pinot Gris Alsace Hunawihr Clos Windsbuhl 1996 (Parker 95) and very good it was too. Alsace wines are really neglected. Th yule log is on the fire Time for a glass of port, or possibly one of Damson Gin (see egcI Autumn Preserves), and relax. Turkey and Xmas pud tomorrow. Hang up the stockings and I hope Santa Claus brings what you want, and plenty of good vittles. Don't forget to put out his mince pies and carrots for the reindeer. You can track his progress on The official NORAD early warning radar Merry Christmas! Peace on Earth and Goodwill to all! (although it seems unlikely with the current set of politicians)

Mince Pies: Pate Sucre 321 Flour 6 oz (or 150g) Butter 4 oz (or 100g) Powdered sugar 2oz (or 50g) Pinch salt 1 egg yolk This pastry has the advantage of having so much butter in it that it does not stick, and stays crisp. Don't overwork or it will be crumbly Whizz butter sugar and flour together in a food processor until crumbs. Add egg yolk and pulse until it comes together. Leave in a cool place for half an hour

Mabelline: Thank you very much, much appreciated. I have discovered that Brogdale the National Apple collection do consultancy services, so I will ask them after the holiday. This is the only picture of myself I have: SethG, and Forever: Thanks. The bread is disappearing fast - may have to make more I urge everyone to listen to King's College Carols, starting about now...

Rushing around this morning doing last minute things. Baked off the bread The pomp al'huile is at the front Collected the cheeses Top row: Colston Basset Stilton; Vacherin Mont d'or; Aged Mountain Gruyere Bottom row: Farmhouse Cheddar; Gubbens (Irish, washed rind); Cotherstone (the softest of the English hard cheeses); Morbier, whith the charcoal strip seperating the morning and the evening milk. The salt cod dish will probably be Saltfish and Ackee, a Jamaican classic, since you have ruled out fishcakes. Making Trifle is a long processs. Picture when its finished. First line a nice bowl with sponge cake, genoise, or swiss roll. Pour on sherry. be generous and let soak in Add raspberries (tinned is fine). Pour on raspberry jelly and let set. Next day spoon on cold custard (hot custard would melt the jelly). Just before serving add whipped cream and decorate. Here Jill and I differ. I think the decoration should be multi-coloured hundreds and thousands, but she points out that they bleed colour into the cream. She prefers glace cherries. We both agree that chocolate sprinkles and chocolate curls are inappropriate. Jill is camera shy, and I hate pictures of myself.

Cusina: The oven features in the egCI Sourdough lesson. I built it instead of a BBQ. It uses a pre-cast refactory oven from Four Grandmere, and a foot of insulation in a brick outer shell. Wood fired. Elevenses is indeed a mid-morning snack. I shouldn't, but its holiday time. The laundry is behind the wall behind the stove. Entrance is to the right, out of shot. Also has storage and a big Maytag US style side-by-side fridge freezer. Getting that in was a struggle. Also more sinks - a deep Belfast one (in the ham soaking pix) and a shallow butlers sink for glasses. The table is a kitchen table, rather than a dining table, although we eat most meals at it in the kitchen. We bought it at auction in one of the local villages. The top has been replaced sometime in its life with basically pine floorboards. The top is plain wood, and gets scrubbed once a week or so. Its usually covered in clutter, newspapers, books, etc. The dining table is polished mahogany in the dining room, of course, but we rarely eat there since we can only get six round it, and for two and informal meals the kitchen is easier. Just back from the company Xmas dinner at a hotel (not my choice). Commercial catering - packet soup, rubber turkey, and commercial pudding. The roast potatoes were turned, which shows some care, but then finished in the deep fryer, which doesn't. Could be worse, just. At least it was moderately hot, and served in about the right order, which is more then many places. Being ancient we left when the disco started... Left to right: Wholemeal, White pain au leaven, fougasse pompe a l'huile. Now safely tucked up retarding in the refrigerator for baking off tomorrow. Thanks for the kind words, but there is a long way to go yet...