Scott

Have had this wine back to the 1960's. Contrary to popular belief it has very little to do with Chester's new swag of modern wines, that I doubt will age anything like this. This wine is 15%, physiologically ripe, fermented dry, no fancy tricks just old school mclaren vale shiraz. Not sure D'arry doesn't still make this himself? Nb. chester osborne actually makes very, very little of the wines that carry his name. He does more promotion and flesh pressing, "assistants" get on with the dirty work. The original is good in nearly every vintage.

I used to work for the UK importers, and the non dose, was always pretty rough. We could never sell it. Had a real marmite character on the mid palate that some found off putting. The 'cuvee speciale' is interesting as it receives a minimum of 4 years aging on lees and comes out very toasty on release. All hazelnuts & vanilla. The vintage is very good, but requires time in the cellar and the standard NV is THE best value in the market imho. In UK Egly always sold for very reasonable prices, often less than the big houses. When in the states I have noticed that reverse is often true.

Andy, to play devils advocate here, what is fusion for it to be rejected? I have always found it a cunning little catch all term rarely with significant meaning. I love neo-classical pacific rim cooking, my term , which I think describes some of the more valid expressions. I don't think the idea of mixing asian flavours and european ones is such a good idea, but the application of technique from one to the other can be quite interesting. Though I doubt this would even be classified as fusion. Vong, was a nice example lot's of rich french stylee emulsions, rather than heavier coconut milk sauces. I like, though not love, tetsuya Wakada's french/japanese cooking - not sure that MJU counts though. Slanting doors in San Francisco does great things with Vietnamese, relying heavily on the french influences. Hell Vietnamese food itself with its european backgrounds could be said to be fusion personified. Cheong Liew, (all kneel, I have just mentioned greatness), a Chinese Malaysian chef who, from the confines of sleepy Adelaide, Australia runs one of the greatest restaurants in the world today, imho. (mind you the American Food & Wine magazine, last year rated him one of the 10 greatest living chef's alive today, so he's not entirely unknown). His food is modern, with heavy malaysian roots, but his mastery of classical technique is astounding, creating intricate flavours and dishes of ethereal complexity. Among certain memorable examples have been a spiced possum ragout where I thought the spicing was somewhat reminiscent of chinese 5 spice, turned out to be a 4 day affair the likes of which Nobu and Black Cod would be familiar with. This was followed by a dish of jellied calves head, a terrine like dish, inspired directly from Joel Rubuchon. I guess what I am trying to say, other than that I am bored whilst working late , is that that is tarred with the 'fusion' brush is the problem, rather than the concept. Unremarkable east/west flavours are certainly tedious, but those who perhaps represent the idea best of all, would not describe themselves as being of 'fusion' orientation. More so I doubt their food would attract such a mundane moniker. I am suddenly reminded of Shane Osborn's wonderful peppered tuna dish, certainly of "fusion" origins, but executed well enough to escape the tag. To me, proper fusion, read neo classical pacific rim , is as much a relevant imperative to modern cuisine as molecular gastronomy. One whereby in it's best execution the lines between classical and the radical become very much blurred, and that to realise this takes a great chef of imagination and technique. Whether Christine Manfield is up to this, I am not sure. Whilst we do not need another clumsy attempt at mix and match, true "fusion" is by it's very nature progressive and to be welcomed.

What ???!!!! no EGLY OURIET One of the, possibly the best of the small artisanal producers. All grand cru vineyards, always considerable aging on lees, very pinot dominated powerful champagne. Try the rose, has a lovely candied orange peel character, and tends to be softer on release. The blanc de noire is stunning wine, long, intense and a great food match.

Tarka, the food is around £42 per head for 3 courses. £4 coffee & petit fours. No real supplements except the lobster. Backward is this instance for a wine, basically means dense and brooding. Deeply flavoured, tannic wine, often with lowish acidity. These wines will usually need some period of aging before they are approachable - elements often not integrated when young. I like to think of them as sitting low in your mouth, whilst a 'bright' wine, say a burgundy, sits quite high in your mouth. These are non literal terms, of course. With the potelle in particular, it is not a fruit bomb, but less ripe - 12.5%, big tannins just starting to soften up, whilst the fruit itself is showing more tertiary development.

Paul, I am very familiar with both wines (and most wines from this estate produced over the last half century), and it sounds like you were very fortunate with your 1988. I have always found it underripe and slightly herbal, with a hard tannic structure. It's always nice when you come across something that is really singing, but as fortuitous as that may be, it's a risk to expect such a performance consistently from the lesser wine.

Paul, not trying to be funny, but there is quite a difference between the PLL 1989 + 1988. The estate really could have done much better in 1988, though the vintage does lack a little charm anyways. the tannins are too hard imo. the 1989 is a great success, and worthy of a much higher price. though obviously not those prices.

Went to L'escargot last night. Picasso room. very formal feel, understated deco surrounds. perhaps prefer the light airy elegance of the main room downstairs, but no matter. Service was merely ok, we waited a little too long for our wine to be re-poured, and a little too long to have our order taken. They were certainly keen to help and when we asked for a little delay between entree and main course they responded well, later asking if it was ok to set the kitchen on our mains. The bread boy didn't speak much English beyond "white or brown?", after Putney bridge this has become a bug bear of mine - though at least he wasn't our main waiter. The food? very good indeed. Fully realising the potential of the kitchen I suspect, which is classical French, at a strong single star standard. Amuse: Warm seafood broth. delicious, creamy broth with morsels of squid, mussel and scallop. The broth redolent with salt and garlic in a real Moorish sense. superb. Entree: Pithivier of Pigeon with chestnuts. tender pigeon brest 'wellington' with a chive, crème fraiche filling. this was powerful gamey flavours, well defined, again with heart attack rendering texture. The pastry rich and an intense jus rounding off a lovely, well balanced dish. But balanced at the higher end of the flavour spectrum. flavour meet texture, texture may I introduce flavour. The kitchen showed an adroit touch with another's smoked salmon filled with crème fraiche and oscietre caviar - ethereal & light delight. Rabbit & foie terrine was less successful, flavours a little muddled. Mains: Again I won! Angus Tournedos, ox tail, on pommes mousseline with heavy red reduction. bring me a cardiologist now I tell you! rich intense flavours of the oxtail contrast with an almost lithesome beef, the silky mash that MPW does better than anyone, and a sauce strong enough to bring it all together. Another big meaty dish, with intense flavouring. Comfort food ala francaise. Others had a beautiful duck, and a slightly overcooked venison. the roast chicken with truffle is a classic, I have had it better and worse than here. Pre dessert: elderflower sorbet with apple foam. uncomplicated, unfussy, clean and tasty. not remarkable, but given the richness of my earlier dishes I needed some cleansing! Desserts were correct and accomplished, but perhaps no more. Charlotte of quince and blackberry. Quince was lovely, as was the blackberry sorbet, the poached blackberries in liqueur were a tad uneventful. The plate of chocolate was however remarkable, contrasting textures and sweetness reportedly enough to hold your interest all the way through. todays hangover was brought to you by a couple of bottles of Jean Marc Pillot Chassagne Montrachet 'Morgeots' 2000. Beautiful wine, fragrant, complex, with an underlying intensity of lemons with a mealy texture. Followed by another couple of 1993 Chateau Potelle cabernet sauvignon - very backward styled Californian from Mount Veeder. Showing development, but still some dark fruit and hints of game coming through. Well structured, ripe moorish tannins and it spanked my ox tail with the right amount of vigour. giddy up! An unmemorable Coteaux du Layon completed this mornings suffering. certainly dinner at L'escargot is elegant dining, without the modern twists that can mar some French kitchens. I was impressed, and very solidly 1 star. Without ambitions or perhaps ability to rise higher.

Duncan, I'm glad you managed some success, but why should you have to go through that palaver? i mean, for #### sakes, why can't they tell me when I can come? I just get worried when people show so little regard for the customer, if booking with them is a privilege - how do they rate actually eating there? incidentally this was the 2nd time I tried to book, the first time I gave up much earlier. Hope it does go well for you however, and will look forward to hearing about it. 'cause I ain't ever going to go

hmmm... Some places local, and some worth going out of your way for. for good cheap grub, that byo's and very good food: Rotisserie Jules, Bute St, South kensington. Should you come across the Notting hill version, make no sudden moves, and back away slowly. For f*ck off good nosh: Pied a Terre, Charlotte st for great, great wine, at fair prices: tate britain in pimlico. best wine list in london, certainly for the mark up's. Food is ok, they only serve lunch. When Pied a Terre is booked solid: Tom Aikens - South Ken. Roussillon - Pimlico, good and it's local Great little bistro: Andrew Edmunds, Soho (cosy, food good, wine great) Great local frenchy: Poule a Pot Place to send enemies: Hush Place to make enemies: Hush Place to divide opinions: St John Best value lunch: Le Gavroche or if full, Capital Hotel - chavot is a genius. At least some of my favourites anyway.

Hoorah!

My Wife, for reasons I don't understand, has always wanted to go to the seafood restaurant. Despite his cooking leaving me cold, based on recipes and insufferably smug tv presenting, I rang to try and attempt a booking. Now I appreciate it may be very busy, but I suggested a date (saturday night) about 2 months in advance, to which I was told no. I then suggested another saturday night further on, again no, yet again I was recommend to their cafe. By this point I'm not impressed, but perhaps they really are busy, so i ask politely if they could tell me when i could get a table on a saturday night. No. F*cking NO - how dare they. this is the polite summary of my thoughts, they were not able to tell me this information (why the #### not), perhaps I could suggest another date. Anyway, I did explain that I thought this was very poor, and that I no longer wished to visit their restaurant. In short Basildog, the separation of Mr Stein and reality that you speak of, surprises me not in the least.

Most certainly. It's probably an excellent lunch option, pre big dinner. you can order as much or as little as you like, and the small/mid sized portions mean you can control your intake better than in most places.

I love atelier in paris, and think it could work here. I had the gazpacho for starter and desert it was so good (5 dishes in between also). The pigeon with Foie, in steamed cabbage is a 3* dish just to remind people who he is. It's these cheeky contradictions that I think helps it work, it's irreverent and referential.

scissors, paper, rock ???

still none the wiser

Hush is an abomination, the boil on Satan's backside Is that too harsh??? - no I didn't think so.

Andy, I'm with Basildog, it seems your being pretty harsh on the GFG. They have better things to do, than check minor details supplied to them, I would have thought. If you're really referring to other incidents, please feel free to share with the group

Matthew, ignoring differences of opinion on some common dishes, a restaurant of such variation in food standards and service surely can't be anywhere near 2 stars. Glad you had a nice night however.

I LOVE la regalade, and the meal I had last june was the highlight of my trip.

what's criminal is that Ch. Margaux were in a terrible stink at the time, and only really became the modern star as we know it from 1978 onwards. The 1960's were a bleak, black period for them, so it's not even like you got sold a great wine. they are taking the piss, possibly to criminal standards. I'd suggest you had a tacit contract on the understanding of the rough price point you are looking at, they have totally changed the terms of your consent by going 5x over, and I imagine many a magistrate would feel the same. Hell, how many people can afford £800 cunningly added to the list.

Andy, choice of beef or sea bass, i went fish, mate went beef. my mistake. as for prices, yeah the tasting menu's at the other places are slightly more expensive, but the food is vastly more exciting. IMHO Putney Bridge is a correct restaurant that went south the night we were there. It's this variability that I find hard to forgive. They would not have retained their michelin star on this showing. did I mention my waiter didn't speak english?

I agree scallops with ham Foie with run & raison cakey thing John dory Sea Bass cheese Strawberry souffle

Took a mate along last night, to cheer him up. where's the wow? another elaborate michelin kitchen without any real pizazz or spunk. I won't go into too much of what I had, I can't remember - we had the degustation and waiter never announced or explained any of the courses and I didn't really recall from the menu. The waiter didn't speak english, nor did he look old enough to shave. I repeat, he didn't speak english - do I ask so much ? Anyway it was all fine, the food was perfectly ok (not great, maybe not quite good either), service was poor and sporadic, the bill was high enough to make me wish I had gone to tom aikens or pied a terre instead. As the point was for a bit of good old fashioned fussy service, I'm not too happy that it was so slap hazard. A john dory course and a sea bass course were all too similar me thinks, and a foie that was big on presentation but a little thin on execution. The beef was excellent, wonderfully textured and rich in flavour, but the only real winner of the night. The food just lacked a kick, as service was crap, where was the bit that made feel good that I had chosen to come here? The cheese course was chosen for me, just a single piece of a chevre or similar, when their board looked so inviting. I think I would be fine here for lunch where the value is better, but overall not an exciting experience - no bang for the buck. A perfectly decent neighbourhood restaurant along the lines of the stepping stone or sonny's; but twice the price. Sloppy, should try harder. - Oh and wouldn't give us a window table, but we watched 2 of them below us go vacant the whole evening.