rlibkind

I thoroughly enjoyed the book when I read it last year. What I found at least as interesting as pure food history as her fortune cooking quest was the discussion of the origins of General Tsao's Chicken. But what was most enlightening was Lee's analysis of the development of Chinese restaurants in America, their spread throughout the land and their role within the immigrant community. This is a required read for anyone who purports to be interested in the intersection of food and cultures.

Calling the show a "farce" is getting nearer the truth than calling the show a rational, measured, judicious examination of cooking skills. It's entertainment, folks! And, I might add, pretty good entertainment if you are at all interested in food. My bets are on Garces or Freitag; they've got the I.C. personality, the others don't. Since I'm in Philadelphia and have enjoyed eating at a couple of Garces' restaurants, I am a bit biased, though. Unless I've missed it, Garces and Freitag (and, I think Mullen) have never dissed another competitor or gone out of their way to screw them. (Thinking yourself the best is not dissing someone else.)

Try Darling's. It's pretty good. (I speak as someone who had a proposal of marriage because of my cheesecake brought to a loft party in SoHo some 35 years ago.)

Almost any chocolate covered cherry, i.e., Cella's in the Northeast and MidAtlantic. Don't know if it's nationally distributed, but there've got to be other manufacturers. It doesn't compare to a fine chocolatier's version, but I love those artifically colored-flavored "marischino" cherries.

As I noted earlier, Russ is a "serial" deli guy. They are not at all uncommon: folks who are entrepreneurs, start a business, develop it and get it operating efficiently, then make their real money in selling it as a turnkey operation. A cousin from Queens did this regularly with Manhattan coffee/sandwich shops, and I've known a couple of deli guys who've done the same. Keeps them from getting bored.

I've been a Three Musketeers fan since I fell off the Peanut Gallery circa 1952 and the staff fed them to me to shut me up. I've always thought it was a Snickers without the peanuts and caramel. (I'm probably in the minority, but I don't favor nuts in my chocolate, the only exception being Chunky and Cadbury's Dairy Milk's Fruit and Nut variety.) Milky Way Midnite, though slightly harder to find than regular Milky Way, is also a fav. Once upon a time this used to be called Forever Yours.

The appearance tomorrow night of David Sax, author of Save the Deli, at the Free Public Library (7:30 p.m., Central Library, 19th & Vine) prompts me to start this topic where we can write about our favs (or not favs). Although there are a couple of topics about a particular deli, a topic search didn't uncover a central repository for Jewish deli info in Philadelphia. At Tuesday's author session, which is free, noshes will be supplied by Hershel's and Rachel's Nosheri. Hershel's will be providing pastrami. I haven't been to Rachel's for at least a dozen years. Back then I didn't regard it as a standout, but that fact that it's been in business for 15 or 20 years at that location suggests they must be doing something right. Anyone been recently? Here are some other Center City delis that I have yet to try, or haven't been to in quite some time. Can anyone offer any recent reports? Pumpernicks. From the folks who used to operate the short-lived deli under the Bellevue where the jazz club later located. Pumpernick's pastrami was nice and fatty last time I tried it, but that was about a dozen years ago.Pickles Plus. The pickled tomatoes on the bowl always found my favor. Famous Fourth Street. I frequent the original, but has anyone been to the new location on S. 19th? Pastrami & Things. Never been here. Kibitz in the City. I was only there once, about 8 or 9 years ago; pastrami was okay, just too salty; at that time they were importing their pastrami from Chicago (Vienna Beef). Any I've missed in Center City? I haven't listed Hershel's or the original Famous because I frequent both. But no reason why we can't comment upon them here. The Famous is a stage set of a deli, ready for the camera. And the food is spot-on, from the bowl of pickles to the rye bread to the kishka. This place is more than corned beef and pastrami. It's a cross between a deli and an old-fashioned "appy" or appetizing store, which specialized in fish and dairy products rather than meat. Since The Famous isn't kosher they sell meat, fish and dairy. As good as the sandwiches are, I'd rather come here for dinner and order the stuffed cabbbage or flanken platters. Russ Cowan (a serial deli operator) certainly improved upon the quality of food when he took over the joint. Hershel's, open for about two years, is located at center court in the Reading Terminal Market. They started out falling just a tad short in my initial pastrami test, but they've constantly improved and now offer the best in town. Plus, all meats are hand-carved, just like at Katz's. The corned beef and pastrami are cured in-house, and the brisket is heavenly, especially when you ask them not to trim too much fat off! But if you like it lean, that's their standard. Feel free to add posts not just about Center City delis, but any of your favs in the Northeast and burbs.

Many of the region's farmers' markets have closed down for the season, but a number are still going strong. The Food Trust's Sunday market at Headhouse Square and Thursday market at Clark Park will continue through the week before Christmas. Both will be open the day before Thanksgiving, but closed the following weekend. They'll then continue in December until Christmas. Clark Park's Saturday market will continue year-round. At Headhouse today, remaining produce vendors included Blooming Glen, Beechwood Orchads, North Star Orchards (photo), Weaver's Way, Three Springs Fruit Farm, Margerum's, Culton Organics, Queens Farm and Savoie Farm. Dark, leafy greens were particularly attractive at a number of the stands, and North Star, Beechwood and Three Spruings offered a nice variety of apples; Beechwood also was selling quinces ($5 quart) for those of you into apple pie making. Cabbages and other brassicas (turnips, brussells sprouts, cauliflower and romansco) were also prevalent. In addition to its usual fine selection of heirloom potatoes, Savoie featured some good looking lettuces.

It's a high-priced cup cake, as befitting the New York Yankees. Rebecca Michaels, proprietor of Flying Monkey Patisserie at the Reading Terminal Market created this goodie for any New Yorkers visiting for the World Series who had cash to burn.

Fennel, beets and celery root were among the fall produce goodies to be found at Livengood's at the Reading Terminal Market Saturday. Expect to see them this Tuesday at South Street and Thursday at Fairmount.

Forgotten foods of the region will be the focus of a festival at the Reading Terminal Market on Saturday, Nov. 14, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. A number of merchants will be preparing some of these foods from our past, and they'll all be available for tasting at reasonable cost. (You'll probably buy tickets at a central point, then exchange the tickets for the tastes.) Among the featured foods: Copes Dried Corn, Wilbur Buds (the original from which Hershey derived his kisses), and Buttercreams from Pennsylvania General Store. Fried Catfish and Waffles, Pepperpot Soup from the Down Home Diner. Pepper Hash from AJ's Pickles. Fried Oysters from Pearl's served with Chicken Salad (probably from Hershel's). Snapper Soup from Pearl's. Cape May Salt Oysters, Cranberries and Black Walnuts from Fair Food Farmstand. Fresh Grated Horseradish from Hershel's. Other items on the menu will probably include goose, fresh ham, heritage turkey and mincemeat pie. Dominic Spataro, whose sandwich shop has been a presence at the market for decades, said fresh grated horseradish brings back fond market memories for him. Nearly half a century ago a merchant named Franklin Field made it on premises for sale at the predecessor to today's Spice Terminal, where he also offered fresh grated coconut. His grated both by hand on a tool used by carpenters to bevel latticework, wearing a leather apron to protect himself from injury. Another of Field's products that was quite popular was Irish dulse (seaweed). The tradition continued when Field's stall was taken over by Harvey Riley, who ran it until it closed in the late 1970s. The spice shop was located near where Iovine Brothers Produce stands today. Poses: The Commissary At Home Steve Poses, remembered by many as one of the movers creating Philadelphia's Restaurant Renaissance in the 1970s and 1980s through his Commissary restaurant, has spent his efforts since then with his catering business. Now he's published a book about home entertaining, At Home: A Caterer's Guide to Cooking & Entertaining. Poses will be in the Piano Court next Saturday, Nov. 7, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. promoting the book and its companion web site and sharing his expertise and passion for home entertaining. He’ll present mini-courses designed to help plan a delicious and stress-free Thanksgiving. The book, usually sold only online (www.athomebysteveposes.com) will also be available for purchase.

Iovine Brothers Produce is Tweeting, sending out some of their latest deals. Sign up at http://www.twitter.com/iovinebrothers.

John, as Holly observes, if you're coming here for hot dogs, you should try hot dogs. That said, I know your tastes and you're bound to be disappointed. It's simply a matter of the quality of the dog itself. As for cheese steaks, if you've never had any in Philadelphia, by all means go for one. Although folks poo-poo Pat's and Gino's, and there are better samples to be had, it's worth going to one or the other (or both if you're hungry) for the ambiance alone. Neon causes hunger. But the roast pork sandwich (with broccoli rabe and aged provlone) should not be missed. In addition to John's and Tony Luke's, may I also heartily recommend DiNic's within the Reading Terminal Market, which also makes Italian style pulled pork (it's hard to pull me away from the roast pork, but Tommy DiNic's pulled pork can) and Italian style brisket; his roast beef is also top-notch, and I know more than a few folks who swear his sausage sandwich is one of the best in town. The other advantage (besides the fact that it's a superior sandwich) of going to DiNic's is that if you are limiting your visit to the immediate Center City/Historic District, it's right in the heart of the city. And the Reading Terminal Market should be on any foodie's must-see list when visiting Philadephia. Oddly, no one has mentioned Franks-A-Lot, which is a hot dog stand (with some other goodies) in the Reading Terminal Market, conveniently located next to the Beer Garden, so you can order a couple of dogs and then belly up to the bar. While Franks-a-Lot does not offer the sine qua non hot dog experience, they make more than passable versions of some of the standards; I find their chili dog superior to those offered by the Texas Wiener joints simply because the quality of the dog is better (but they don't split the dogs as the others usually do). They've also got kielbasa and pierogies! I don't think they have German style dogs, but they offer, iirc, both all beef and all beef kosher dogs. Alas, the dogs are cooked on a roller cooker, a definite point against them.

Super Bowl Sunday is usually the peak day for guacamole. But with the Eagles playing Sunday, and the Phillies in the World Series Saturday, Sunday and Monday, why not dip into some this weekend? The price of avocados and limes at Iovine Brothers' Produce shouldn't stop you. Large, Chilean Hass avocados were selling for a buck apiece today, and a lime will set you back a dime. Today the avocados were a bit on the firm size and could use a day or two of ripening. But they'd certainly be ready by Sunday. Charlie, one of the managers for Iovines, says the Chileans have been in the avocado business for a long time, but the California Avocado Board worked to keep them out of the U.S. for the past 10 years. Now they're back, which means competition for both California and Mexico, the world's largest exporter of Hass avocados. Beck's Cajun Cafe opened this past Monday. See my report in the dining section.

Want a muffaletta, or a Po' Boy? You can get them now at the Reading Terminal Market with the opening this past Monday of Beck's Cajun Café. Alas, no beignets yet. Bill Beck, the proprietor, said he wasn't told when he ordered his mixer that it was on back order, but it is. So we'll have to wait to try this version of sweet fried dough. She Who Must Be Obeyed and I visited the market today to sample Beck's fare. SWMBO ordered the muffaletta, I opted for the Oyster Po'Boy. I didn't ask Bill where he got his bread, but the hoagie-style roll for the Po' Boy and the round, sesame seeded muffaletta bread were both excellent. (I can't compare to what you'd get in New Orleans, since I've never been there.) Although I generally like my hoagie rolls with a thin crispy crust, the soft-style long and round rolls were good protein holders. SWMBO enjoyed the muffaletta, but she prefers the pressed style of this sandwich. Bill explained he modeled his on the version found at Central Grocery in New Orleans, which claims to be the home of this sandwich; Central's versions, and Beck's, is an unpressed sandwich filled with cold fixings. And the fixings are very good, indeed: mortadella, salami, tasso ham and aged provolone with a New Orleans style vinaigrette and adorned with an olive salad. And the sandwich is huge. The $8.95 "half" sandwich easily fills up two hearty eaters. SWMBO didn't eat half of a half; we took the remainder home and will press it on the stove between two cast iron skillets for lunch tomorrow. Of course, the muffaletta is nothing more than a variant on the hero, sub or hoagie, something you'll find in any Italian-American community. The difference, to my mind, is in the breads and the garnishes. The olive salad on Beck's was superb, a mix of what seemed to be two or three different olives, including one that actually has a reddish cast. My $7.59 Fried Oyster Po' Boy was a bit less massive, though it easily could feed two lighter eaters. The six large oysters were expertly fried with a breading of panko. They sat atop a hoagie style roll slathered in remoulade and garnished with lettuce and tomato. If you're a root beer fan, be sure to order a bottle of the Abita root beer. It's a strong, herbal brew that will satisfy your root beer cravings. Just a whiff of it satisfies. We also added the Cajun fries, which were tasty potato wedges spiked with onions and something to give them heat (maybe Tabasco or Crystal?). Service at the counter (which seats about a dozen, I'd guess) was personable and fast.

It's probably a bias for my native North Jersey (even though I've been living in Philadelphia for 30 years), but the dogs served locally mostly leave me. As for surf 'n turf, I've just never gotten it. Cute name, interesting idea, but unappealing when eaten. A far, far better combination is the Italian hot dog from North Jersey: served on a half-moon Italian round bread, two natural-casing beef dogs (from Best Provisions of Newark), peppers, onions and potatoes, all fried in the same fryer (not the bread, just what's put inside). I went to Levis a number of times when I first came to town, and it was certainly a decent dog, especially when accompanied by Champ Cherry. But it didn't blow my socks off. The addition of pepper hash as a topping is probably Philadelphia's finest contribution to hot-doggery, though I've still got a passion for the basic hot works: mustard, hot relish and kraut. I will definitely get to Moe's, if only for the ambiance! I've tried Johnny Hots on any number of occasions, and it's a fun stop on Delaware Ave, but the hot dog just leaves me. I know some folks will say that hot dogs are really about the topping (just ask any Chicagoan), but I'm convinced you've got to start with a decent dog. This is where most Philadelphia vendors fall way, way short. All too many use Hatfield, which is awful, or skinless franks, which are an abomination and a sin. The quality of the dogs made in the region is another matter; some are excellent. The German-style dogs are at the head of the class, and the Dietz & Watson natural casing all-beefs, while falling shy of superb, are pretty darned good. Still, I make one or two trips a year to Newark to buy Best Provision's five- and eight-to-a-pound all-beef natural casing franks. The five-to-a-pound version are what Syd's served for 60 years before going out of business.

It's not early at all. I've purchased them at the RTM and at various farmers' markets in the city. I'm sure local chestnut are available at local farmers' markets in your area. The imported Italian chestnuts should be available by now in most supermarkets. I'm pretty sure I saw them at Wegman's/Cherry Hill last week, so check out the new Collegeville store or Downingtown.

You might want to consider a Christmas Eve dinner. Aquavit's Julebord (many different herrings, as well as shrimps, salmons (cured and fresh), salads, cheeses, breads, roasts, Jansson's Temptation potatoes, etc.) is an appropriate Nordic feast. All that's missing is the pinnekjott.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't Garces beat Bobby Flay on ICA?

If you want to start up a stall at the Reading Terminal Market, you'll have to wait for an existing vendor to fail. With the recent move of the Fair Food Farmstand to the 12th Street side of the market, the opening of S&B Meats and Barb & Suzy's Kitchen, and next week's opening of Beck's Cajun Café all available space has been leased for the first time in a couple of years. The move of Fair Food expands the available seating in the court closest to Arch Street, and it will remain that way, according to Paul Steinke, the market's general manager.

Jujubes at Iovine's When I think of Jujubes, I think of the tiny gummy candies from Heide's I would buy during my pre-adolescent years at the Saturday matinees at the Elmora Theater in Elizabeth, New Jersey, where I saw such classics as "X the Unknown" and "The Blob". Little did I know there was another Jujube, which I found recently at Iovine Brothers' Produce at the Reading Terminal Market. Unlike the sweet, sugary little pellets of my childhood, these Jujubes are alleged to have medicinal properties, as well as a more adult taste. They somewhat resemble dates and, indeed, are sometimes called Red Dates or Chinese Dates, though their origin is probably India. They have a wonderful scientific name: Ziziphus zizyphus. For those interested here's the Wikipedia entry. These kaffir limes are also purportedly medicinal and are primarily used in Southeast Asian and Indonesian cuisines, frequently in a curry paste. They are also available at Iovine's. With the coming of winter (it sure seems close with our recent weather) Iovine's is bringing in more citrus fruit. This past week Valencia oranges were available in bags at a bargain price of $1.99 for a four-pound bag. Tangerines were six for a buck, and Florida navels were five for $2. Cara Cara oranges were 3 for $1. Limes were a bit less pricey today, 5 for a buck. Lemons were 3/$1, but they were heavy with juice. After a hiatus of a week or so, red and green cactus pears are back in stock. Figs remain available, at least those from California. A pint box of about a dozen brown figs was selling for $4.99 at Iovines. Chile, which dominates the out-of-season fruit market in Philadelphia, is expanding into avocados to compete with Mexico. Iovines was selling medium sized fruits this week, 2 for $1.49; smaller ones were in a separate bin for a quarter apiece. For as long as I've been shopping there Iovines has sold tofu, but only the medium firm type they package into plastic containers in water. This week they expanded tofu offerings to include three or four additional firm and super firm versions, including a "tofu cutlet" ready for cooking. You can find them in the refrigerated cases by the Filbert Street checkout. Unpasteurized cider is back in stock at Kauffman's Lancaster County Produce, available in pints and half-gallons. (In the past Ben Kauffman has also sold it in quarts; maybe he'll have those next week). Kauffman's always has a nice selection of brassicas each fall, and this year is no exception, as demonstrated by the purple and white cauliflower, romanesco and broccoli above. One of the joys of Lancaster County in the fall is the appearance of local celery. Livingood's had them at the RTM this morning, $2 a bunch. The celery grown in Lancaster County is a tad less stalky and more leafy, but it's crispy freshness (versus the trans-continental California product) and deep green color make it welcome. I'll put some stalks on an old-fashioned relish tray, with a selection of olives, at dinner tonight. (Drat! I forgort to buy some fresh radishes to complete that tray.) If we're lucky when we get closer to Thanksgiving we might see some white celery, which is the same thing as green celery except that the stalks are buried so they aren't exposed to light; the process is the same that produces white asparagus. This labor-intensive celery makes a wonderful side when braised in butter with a little white wine

When I first started visiting the Reading Terminal Market more than a quarter century ago, Spataro's was known as the place where you could stop for lunch and pay about as little for a sandwich as humanly possible. Inflation and menu upgrades have changed that, though Spataro's (which has since moved from one part of Center Court to another) still represents good value. The addition of cheese steaks to Spataro's bill of fare earlier this year is partly responsible for the hike in average menu cost ($7 for a plain steak, iirc). Their version of the cheese steak represents the third and final entry in my RTM survey of this Philadelphia classic. The best thing about Spataro's is the meat. Although it would take side-by-side comparisons to confirm this (I've spaced my tastings over the past five or six weeks), I thought their meat was the beefiest I've tried so far, when compared to By George and Carmen's. There was also a satisfactory taste of onions in my sandwich though I could have used a bit more. The bread was okay, the typical soft steak roll -- I'd like just a hint of crunch to the crust. The main failing was the cheese: I couldn't taste it, let alone detect the cheesy, gooey mouth feel I want my cheese steak to convey. As best as I could determine, they used two thin slices of American, though provolone is also offered. Another failing is the unavailability of hot sauce. Still, it's a fine representation of a cheese steak and you won't be disappointed when you crave this icon of our fair city's culinary heritage. More About DiNic's Pulled Pork One morning last week Joe Nicolosi offered me a taste of some of his pulled pork fresh out of the oven. Gotta say, while this sandwich is excellent eating any time of the day, it's better if you can get it fresh before the fat has a chance to re-congeal. It absolutely melted in the mouth, with textural contrast offered by the crunchy bits. As previously noted, don't confuse this version with what you're likely to find in North Carolina: the seasonings are Italian (with tons of garlic), not barbecue.

At least for the hour after it opened, both vendors and customers were a tad scarce at the Headhouse Square Farmers' Market yesterday, each group deterred by the threats of the second successive Nor'Easter. Maybe it picked up after I left shortly before 11, when the weather appeared less threatening. Although some merchants were among the missing because of the recent rains (Young's Flowers, for example, couldn't pick because of the South Jersey showers), most of the regulars were selling their goods. Tom Culton was back with his brassicas and winter banana apples, Beechwood, North Star and Three Springs showed off the fruits of their respective orchards, Savoie proudly displayed its variety of hard-to-find potatoes, Queen Farm put forth its usual enticing display of oyster mushrooms and specialty Asian vegetables, and tables of both Blooming Glen and Weaver's Way groaned under the burden of radishes, beets, turnips, chards, lettuces and other garden goodies, including some of the season's last tomatoes. Birch Run's sign reminded me that, addition to intriguing cheeses, they also deal in veal. One cut that got my attention for future cooking was brisket, $9/pound. I've only had it once, at the expansive brunch served at Lacroix in the Rittenhouse Hotel. In that case it was corned (brined) before braising. Basically, it's meatiest part of a breast of veal without the bones. These Ying Yang dried beans from Culton Organics are just one of the many varieties of fall produce I found at Headhouse Square Farmers' Market the previous Sunday. Alas, they weren't there yesterday. Tom continues to feature some delicious, though small, chestnuts. They roasted up perfectly (about 10 minutes in a 425 toaster oven; be sure to make a small 'x' on the flat side to avoid popping). Out of the first two dozen chestnuts I roasted, there were only two that were moldy/inedible. Brussels sprouts have been making their appearance at local markets, too. Tom was selling his for $5 a quart. His white, purple or orange cauliflower and romanesco was $5 for medium-sized heads. Yellow string beans were $5/quart, sweet potatoes $2/pound. Among fruits, Tom had delicious Winter Banana apples as well as Asian pears; they were pricey at $1 apiece last week, but the apples, at least, could be had for less yesterday. (You'll have to wait an extra week to try Culton's produce; he's off next week to do some leaf-peeping in western North Carolina.) Pumpkins, as predicted in a previous post, are expensive this year. Blooming Glen's jack-o-lantern pumpkins were $8 apiece when I checked on the previous Sunday. Long Island cheese pumpkins, ideal for baking use, particularly pies, were $6 each; huge Blue Hubbard squashes were similarly priced. Butternut squash was more reasonable $1.25/pound, Delicata $1.50. Also based on prices the previous week, North Star Orchards' apples were all $2/pound, except the Honey Crisps, $2.50. Magness pears were $2. Beechwood Orchards apples were $4/quart, $4.50 for Honey Crisps. Pears were $5/quart, chestnuts $6/quart. Margarums also had potatoes, including $2/pound Russetts. Savoie offered about half a dozen varieties, most from organic seeds from an Aroostock County, Maine, supplier. Like those of the other sellers at Headhouse, you'll pay more for potatoes than you will at a supermarket, but for varieties you'd be hard-pressed to find.

We're almost a month past the autumnal equinox, and that means farmers' markets will be shutting down for the season over the next month or so. What to do after that? Well the Reading Terminal Market and its Fair Food Farmstand and the year-round Clark Park market come to mind first. But Farm To City, Bob Pierson's organization, offers another option, Philadelphia Winter Harvest. From November through April more than 500 food items are availble from this service, including organic produce, flavored vinegars and condiments, meat, poultry, eggs, raw and pasteurized milk, cream, yogurt, cheeses honey, maple syrup, canned and dried fruits, vegetables and herbs, breads, coffees and teas. Under Philadelphia Winter Harvest, you can order once every two weeks for deliveries weekly (don't ask me to figure that out); deliveries are made to Old Pine Community Center where orders are available for pickup. For more info visit http://www.farmtocity.org then click on Buying Clubs, Philadelphia Winter Harvest.

I'll have to remember to call Cherry Hill a day or so before my next trip over. Thanks.