(I worked at the "Tour" for two years in 1980-81 as a cook.) Claude Terrail, 85, will hand over the helm to his 22-year-old son, Andre on April 29. Also, on April 29 there will be a celebration of the millionth pressed duck served. Famous duck-eaters include: Japanese emperor Hirohito (twice, fifty years apart) received duck No. 53,211 on June 21, 1921, and duck No. 423,900 on October 3, 1971. King Edward VII downed duck number 328 in 1890 and Theodore Roosevelt 33,642 in 1910. The restaurant is 411 years-old -- serving in the same location since 1582. Terrail has had a pretty good time of it: He once was married to Barbara Warner and, to mention but one, had an affair with Ava Gardner. He fed a lot of Hollywood talent, Europe's royals, and people in high political office through much of the 20th century. Orson Welles was a friend, as were Errol Flynn and Jane Mansfield. The entrance hall at the Tour d'Argent has photographs and letters left by the powerful and the wealthy, from John F Kennedy to a tableful of Nobel prizewinners. His favorites guests were Winston Churchill and Sir Alexander Fleming. Of course, being able to father a son at sixty-three...