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  1. Might as well use silver or silver plated copper.
  2. I understood that the maximum safe thickness for sv meat was 70mm. Could this be increased by studding the meat with stainless steel pins of optimal length, diameter, and distribution?
  3. Do you calibrate your themocouples? If so, how and how often? I'm not kevin or a chemist, but hey, this is the internet. I did do a reasonable amount of 'controls' work. A PID controller can easily do 0.1C, *if* the system it is controlling is correct. First off, maintaining 0.1C at 'steady state' with no changing outside parameters is pretty easy. Assuming the thermocouple that is responsive enough, and a heater that is powerful enough, "all" you need to do is characterize your system and plug in the P,I and D parameters. A controller might be able to learn this in a specific set-up. It is when you distrub the system, like dumping a thermal load suddenly in it, that it goes off. Now, to regain your footing, you'll have to pump heat into it. So, you will need a more (how much? hard to say) powerful heater. Of course, the heat is localized; to spread it around, you'll want to circulate that water; the more powerful the heater, the harder you will have to circulate. And your PID settings will have to be choosen to have the response you want to that. Of course, the typical water volume, thermal loss to the surroundings, and typical thermal load can all be guessed for most situations to within some kind of sane guess, so I'd bet it wouldn't be too hard to have a system that can not only maintain 0.1C, but recover to it quite quickly. Of course, it might cost ya. With a SousVideMagic and a stockpot (9L sideheater 400W) and a fountain pump, I have longtime stability within ±0.06°C, and disturbance with a 460g iceAKKU of -20°C causes a dip of about 0.5-1.0°C with a recovery time of 15-20min., depending on PID settings. When SousVideMagic is run in °C and not °F, PID-values from autotuning are quite acceptable.
  4. Kevin, Thanks for the perspective on phthalate leaching. As a chemist, can you weigh in on the capability of any pid to maintain 0.1C accuracy?
  5. I have had good luck using ziploc sous-vide bags with a laboratory aspirator (eg. ebay# 270401277447 ~$25).
  6. Why not use a 2.5 - 10 gallon electric hot water heater with PID controlled circulation pump? This may require some add-on valves as well as taking visegrips to the thermostat to get it to heat above 120F. After working in an organic chemistry lab, I would think twice about getting a surplus immersion heater.
  7. I sv'd two briskets. I finished and served one with generally pleasing results and froze the other. How should I reheat this? I see Douglas Baldwin's Table 2.4 appears to calls for about four hours at 56C to bring the core to 55 (50mm cut). My spouse has some complaints about the lukewarm feel inside the outer core. I assume a hotter bath would cut the time as well as heating a deeper layer. What works? Many thanks.