marktynernyc

(sorry - I was away this weekend) Misc: Mercado de Dulces Wandered through and tried the coconut/lime treat (was tasty), tamarind (which was sweet) and tamarind rolled in chili powder (which is an acquired taste) - both tamarind treats possess a lot of seeds. I also tried atole de guyaba - which was great at night when the temperature had dropped. Couldn't find atole de negro. Overall the merchants sell the same treats - and the upstairs "crafts" section is pretty bland, but has some great vintage postcards. Monarch butterfly preserve / El Rosario http://www.mmg.com.mx I did an all day excursion (400.00) to the monarch butterfly preserve in El Rosario. Seven of us departed Morelia with Luis Miguel around 9 am and drove for about 2 hours through the Michoacan countryside, which is beautiful. Green fields - pear and apple tree groves, newly planted agave, shallow lakes. The hike into the mountains starts at a village that has numerous small restaurants and stores. The hike takes about 1 1/2 hours to get to the main viewing area - the air does get thinner as you hike upward through the forest. Along the way Luis told the migration pattern, the theories and the folklore associated with the monarch butterflies. The butterfly nucleus drifts, and expands on the mountain side according to weather conditions. You cannot walk underneath the huge mass of butterflies clinging to the trees anymore - however, Luis did bring some high powered binoculars which allowed for incredible viewing. Also, when the sun went behind clouds, the air was filled with monarch butterflies fluttering about everywhere. Personally - I found the experience moving - it almost felt like a pilgrimage, the forest lending a cathedral like quality, the migration of millions of monarchs from Canada to Mexico for thousands of years - a rewarding experience. Hiking back to the small village we had lunch at one of the restaurants, which was included with our excursion - we started with freshly grilled nopales, hand pressed blue corn tortillas which were thick, chewy and slightly charred form the stove. With a dollop of a wonderful home made picante amarillo salsa, I was in heaven. I ordered pollo con mole, rice and beans (which was okay, the enchiladas looked better) and quesadillas with requeson (the cheese slightly tart), which were great - a couple cervesas - this meal hit the spot perfectly. If you choose to do the butterfly excursion - I really recommend Luis - the group size was intimate, he is extremely knowledgeable and personable - just a satisfying experience. His company also offer tours of Morelia and surrounding environs.

Hotel de la Soledad Ignacio Zaragoza 90 (011-52-443) 312-18-88 http://www.hsoledad.com I tried the Michoacan traditonal breakfasts - one morning, uchepos, which are fresh green corn tamales, served with a cream, salsa rojo and either poblano or nopales strips and refried beans. Another morning, corundas, which are a crumbly light tamale, also served with cream, salsa rojo, refried beans. I really liked the corundas - the airyness in contrast to the thick beans. Along with the breakfast, marmalade and toast, fresh fruit, hot chocolate, coffee, and juice - all for 58.00. Sitting on the edge of the courtyard, watching the morning sun slowly pour into the courtyard, the birds chirping, the chill in the air (it get's cold in the mountains), a blue cloudless sky - life is good here.

Villa Montana Patzimba 201 T (443) 314 02 31 http://www.villamontana.com.mx/ Located outside of the historic district, in the mountains but what a view - I sipped Don Julio tequila (56.00) at sunset on the terrace overlooking the city, gazing at those evocative unmistakable Mexican mountains, watching the lights come on. The hotel and grounds are intimate and cozy. (Along with tequila I got a small glass of tomato juice, limes and salt - not really sure what the proper succession is - does anyone know?) For dinner I started with a lobster and pumpkin flower bisque touched with agave (70.00). Thick and creamy, warm not tongue burning. There were small pieces of agave on the bottom of the dish - which add a nice textural contrast to the silky sopa. For my entree - duck breast in a porto sauce with bacon wrapped asparagus and risotto with squash blossoms and wild mushrooms (170.00). Most of the dishes on the menu lean towards international instead of Mexican (unfortunately). I had a 1/2 bottle of cab. sav. X-A Domeq (100.00) For dessert I had a nahuatl avocado souffle (50.00) - a light green, airy, not too sweet confection. Service was attentive - I felt a bit self conscious because I was the only person there at first - other diners arrived, the fire place was lit, a piano player played gently.

Las Trojes Col. La Loma Camelinas Juan Sebastián Bach 51 T: (52 4) 314-7344 A restaurant housed in a troje, a wood cabin typical of the region - you'll need to take a cab. The main emphasis here is carne. Seems to be a popular suit and tie lunch place, but there was also casual. As I was seated tortillas, salsa, limes, nopales, rojo and verde sauces, some raw vegetables and bread were placed on the table. I had queso adobera with a chipotle sauce (49.00), crema cilantro (36.00) and filet poblano (99.00). The queso adobera (semi firm cheese in a chipotle sauce) came with warm corn tortillas (no detergent smell) and guacamole - add a spoonful of nopales, a squeeze of lime - a nice appetizer. If crema cilantro sounds a bit overwhelmingly cilantro-ey, it wasn't. Does anyone else find similar notes between cilantro and tomatillos because I thought i detected some tomatillos also? Garnished with toasted sesame seeds and croutons - this was a smile producing sopa. I order the filet poblano rare - and it came rare - I should have ordered it medium rare. It was a thin filtet folded over with the poblano strips inside, smothered under a very light cheese sauce, a sprinkling of onion. The dish was a bit muddied for my taste. For dessert, postre flan de cajeto and espresso - which was okay. For wine - I had a half bottle of cabernet sav X-A Domeq (110.00)

Here's La Azotea's menu: ENTREES Breaded pumpkin flower stuffed with requesón in poblano chilli sauce Breaded Panela Cheeses with herb garland Platter of cold meats and assorted cheeses Crushed shrimp in chipotle chilli sauce on fried corn tortilla Chicken "Sopes" Mushrooms with shrimp in garlic sauté Fried flour tortillas stuffed with requesón in avocado sauce Dried beef, northern style Salmon Carpaccio Beef tenderloin Carpaccio Asturian cheese breaded with puff pastry CHILES Dried poblano chilli stuffed with requesón and shrimp in coriander sauce Poblano Chilli stuffed with cheese covered in puff pastry and tomato sauce SALADS Monastery - Fine lettuces with jicama and mango Convent - Watercress, salad with apple, bacon and sesame Caesar salad Friar - Fine lettuces with avocado, tomato, onion , cucumber and green pepper Monk - Spinach salad, with camembert cheese and prosciutto ham Dressings: Vinaigrette French , Honey or Balsámic SOUPS "Mestiza" Soup with mushrooms, pumpkin flowers and corn Chicken broth "Tlalpeño" with vegetables and chipotle CREMES Corn cream Pumpkin flowers and light poblano chilli cream Combination of fine cheeses cream "Chicharron "cream PASTA Fettuccini with smoked salmon Carbonara Spaghetti POULTRY Chicken breast stuffed with pumpkin flower and cheese in poblano sauce Breaded chicken breast stuffed with prosciuto ham and cheese in mustard sauce Chicken breast with mexican "mole" sauce Duck with orange or black cherry sauce MEAT Beef fillet stuffed with fine-grained corn in "huitlacoche" sauce Beef fillet tournedos with cheese sauce Beef fillet au gratin in chipotle sauce Beef skirt steak accompanied with guacamole, beans and french onions Mexican style beef fillet steak with Nopal in red chili sauce Grilled beef tenderloin acompanied with potato and vegetables SHRIMP Breaded shrimp stuffed with cheese Shrimp al´orange in a tequila- based flambée Shrimp au coconut with orange and bilberry chutney Jalisco shrimp FISH Red snapper fillet, veracruzana style Red snapper in garlic sautee Smoked trout navarra style MICHOACAN SPECIALITIES Assorted Michoacan Snacks:" Charales,dried chilli, asadera cheese" "Corunda" soup "Tarasca" soup Smoked trout on macadamia nut sauce Enchiladas Placeras (stuffed with cheese in red chilli pepper sauce) DESSERTS DIFFERENT CREATION EACH DAY Be sure to enquire about our specialty LAS MONJAS Thinly sliced jícama in cajeta and tequila sauce

just got back from Morelia and Huatulco - Michoacan is a beautiful state and Morelia, a colonial gem. Huatulco is an isolated resort destination - which is both a good and bad thing. I'll include my activities, accomodation and misc. information at the end of my report. Morelia: Hotel Juaninos - La Azotea Av. Morelos Sur 39 T: (52 4) 312-0036 http://www.hoteljuaninos.com.mx/ Had both lunch and dinner here. Some of the dishes I had from the menu: dried poblano stuffed with requeson and crushed shrimp in a coriander sauce (60.00), pumkin flower and light poblano chili cream sopa (48.00), assorted Michoacan snacks: adobera (type of Panela cheese)- charales (small fish) - chile ancho with cream (68.00), smoked trout on a macadamian nut sauce (100.00), sopa tarasca (45.00), poblano stuffed with chese covered in puff pastry and tomato sauce (70.00), jicama in a tequila caramel sauce. All the dishes were presented stylishly. My favorite dishes - the pumkin flower and light poblano soup - a ying and yang of light yello and light green cream soup, warm without being scalding, the flavors fresh and light; the smoked trout on the macadamia sauce, which worked very well together. I also like the Michoacan snacks - especially the little silvery fishes, which were a little salty, briney, crispy. I tried a 1/2 bottle of Mexican Blanc de Blanes X-A Domeq (100.00) - which I thought had good structure. They also make a very competent margarita (46.00). The view of the cathedral is a knockout from here - a great place the day you arrive to have your jet-lag lunch. The restaurant is done in a mexican minimal modern tone - this is defintely a place to come for drinks as the sun sets. "... the cathedral is lit dramatically so the pink volcanic stone pops against the inky blue night sky, in the plaza below a clown entertains a laughing crowd, from above the cars and the crowds move at a leisurely place, the night is not a time for rushing about..." I hate to admit but I could have almost eaten all my meals here while in Morelia. My only quibble - the cloth which they wrapped the warm tortillas imbued them with just a hint of detergent (can't believe I would notice something like that but I love the smell of warm corn torilllas)

WHS - Here are a couple Prague sources I used: http://www.praguepost.com/ http://www.squaremeal.cz/ http://www.gurman.cz/eng/ I would defintely have dinner in the Francouzska restaurant in the Municiple House - the food and the Art Nouveau room are a real treat - and be sure to take a day tour of the Municple House - the galleries upstairs contain incredible examples of Art Nouveau/Secession craftmanship. http://www.obecni-dum.cz/e_pruvodce.htm David - because I enjoyed the intimate feel of the restaurant - only 12 twelve tables. http://www.restaurant-david.cz/index_en.php3 What I liked about Sarah Bernhardt restaurant was that they had seasonal specials, and the room is very elegant - located next to the Municple House: http://www.hotel-pariz.cz/restaurant_en.html Another place I tried for lunch and would defintely go back for dinner: http://www.upetrskeveze.cz/english.htm I had wanted to try this place but was closed due to the floods - http://www.svataklara.cz/ Only other suggestion - drink the local wines - the whites were very enjoyable, the reds overall were okay (had a great one at Upetrskeveze) - and the Bohemian sekt (sparkling wine/ champagne/cava) was quite competent and good. I wanna go back Prague....

HOTELS: Sultanahmet Sarayi Torun Sok, No. 19, Sultanahmet www.sultanahmetpalace.com This boutique hotel is located next to (right behind) the Blue Mosque. It has a garden with fruit trees and fountain, a restaurant and a restaurant with a view of the Marmara Sea. I had made reservations ($100 US for 6 nights, one additional night free) months in advance asking for a room with a view of the Blue Mosque only to be told right before I left NYC that I was being upgrade to a deluxe room with a partial view of the Marmara Sea. (After the ïroom with a view of a wall' fiasco at the Palace Hotel in Hvar I immediately wrote back the hotel asking for further explanation) The room looked over a parking lot and if I leaned out the window I had a full view of the Marmara Sea - to say the least I was not happy, especially being that I was celebrating my 40th. I was told they would move me but couldn't until Monday being that the hotel was fully booked. I'm guessing they were able to charge someone else more for the room they had promised me. The room was nicely furnished - the bathroom is a smaller version of a hamam - an interesting and atmospheric touch. Complimentary fruit basket and bottle of wine. Of course I wasn't able to fully unpack and get settled. In retrospect a room with a view of the Blue Mosque was superfluous because each morning as I left the hotel the Blue Mosque was right in front of me - which really makes this a wonderful location. I was offered any room and decided a room with a view of the Marmara Sea and terrace would be preferred. They moved my belongings on Monday while I was doing the Bosphorus ferry. The room was great but the bathroom/hamam was tiny. I was able to sit on the terrace in the morning and watch the oil tankers and cruise ships enter/leave the Bosphorus. And the sun rises were beautiful - the misty blue grey Bosphorus, the sea gulls cries. The staff was at times very helpful but most of the time seemed coolly indifferent unlike the staff at the Four Seasons where my friends were staying (of course, if I was paying what they were paying.....) But such things as only having one flower vase available seemed to reflect a lack of attention to detail or foresight. I wanted to like this hotel but...it's in a great location and having a terrace overlooking the Marmara Sea was really nice but still.... if you do stay here request one of the following 8 rooms: private balcony+view of Marmara sea, deluxe: 111, 110, 109; view of Blue Mosque: deluxe: 101, 120, 119; standard: 201, 216. Email the hotel directly for a quote on rates. (One other incident which I'm hesitant to discuss but think important - after clubbing one night and meeting someone, whom I invited back to the hotel - I was told at the desk I could not have overnight guests - not sure if it would have been different if my friend had been female - I explained to the desk clerk that the general manager could speak with me tomorrow morning but my friend and I were going to sleep - I have never encountered such a policy at any of the hotels I have stayed at - in defense of the hotel they may have been concerned for my safety and their hotel guests, I don't know - and no, the hotel manager did not speak with me the next day) Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul Tevkifhane Sok. No. 1, Sultanahmet My friends stayed here (which was short distance from my hotel) and it is no wonder why this hotel has received so many awards. The service and attention to detail is impeccable. The staff is attentive and professional - cordial without being stiff or overly sweet. My friends had a suite with 1 1/2 baths and a view of the interior garden. On numerous occassions they returned to their room to find complimentary bottles of wines, petite fours, their clothes folded, etc, etc Large umbrellas available at the front in case of rain show the thoughtfulness this hotel has for their guests. Of course paying what my friends were paying - one should expect such service. I'm glad my friends decided to stay at the Four Seasons. Regarding hotel location - I'm glad I chose to stay in the Sultanahmet area for my first visit to Istanbul - everything is with in walking distance. I picked up a couple brochures of other hotels in the area and will post. I had read some posts recommending staying in Taksim, Beyoglu or up on the Bosphorus. I do wish I had stayed a few days at a hotel somewhere in one of the "villages" along the Bosphorus - just to relax and kick back.

Sorry for posting so sporadically - will try to finish up this week..... Turkish Shave I purposely did not shave for a week because I had read numerous postings about getting a Turkish shave. On the day of my arrival I went to a barber near the Cemberlitas baths, Kuafor Salonu. I was treated to a double shave with a straight razor, my nose hairs and ear hairs trimmed (ear hairs then singed), eyebrows trimmed, a shoulder and upper back massage, my neck adjusted and various creams and lotions applied to my face - all for 5.000.000 TL. To say the least - my shaving cream and razors remained in my toiletry bag the entire trip. It was a great way to start off each morning. Cemberlitas baths http://www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr A bath and massage cost 25.000.000 TL. A turkish friend here in NYC told me to tell the massage attendant - 'tallah'. On my first visit - my attendant proceeded to scrub me down like Karen Silkwood and turn me into a pretzel - cracking my back, my neck. On my third visit - an older man was my massage attendant. I wasn't really expecting a pummeling as the previous two visits - however the attendant motioned for me to lay on my stomach on the marble slab, stepped up and onto my back and proceeded to shimmy back and forth along my spine until I capitulated. I would also recommend going early - I had the bath to myself one morning - a majority of the attendants were asleep, the dripping water echoed within the bath - there was something wonderfully peaceful staring up at the dome in solitude. The best method for tipping seems to be at the end of the session after you have dressed - just find your massage attendant as you leave, most likely he'll find you. My belongings were securely locked in my changing room - no problems at all. Just around the corner you can get freshly squeezed orange juice for 1.500.000 TL. The Bosphorus ferry The ferry leaves at 10:35 am - get there around 10 to buy your ticket. Round trip is 6.600.000, one way is 3.300.000. You may be approached by people trying to steer you towards their boats - just ignore them and find Pier 3. To view the European side first, I recommend the back of the boat on the left hand side (when facing the bow of the ship). If you sit in the same place you'll see the Asian side on your return. As we waited to leave we watched numerous ships and ferries go by. i was amazed at how the ferries docked so quickly and so closely to each other. The Golden Horn and the Bosphorus look amazingly clean (compared to the Hudson and East rivers here in NYC) - I even saw huge jelly fish. I was surprised at how fast the ferry goes. Also - the ferry docks for about 2 minutes at each ferry stop - so if you're getting off at Beskitas, don't dwaddle because they won't wait. It was nice to see how the city peeled away to the green shores of the Bosphorus. The Bosphorus is huge. The 10:35 ferry stops at Andalou Kavagi around noon and doesn't leave until 3 pm. We walked up to the Genose Castle (actually Byzantine) - from there you can see the Black Sea and the numerous ships waiting to enter the Bosphorus. There are numerous restaurants in Kavagoi Andalou - see restaurant review. Once again - the trip back was swift. I can see why this is such a popular weekend activity. There are mini boats at the ferry stops that will take you to the opposite shore - 1.000.000 TL. Dolmabache Tourists pay 10.000.000, Turkishs pay 4.000.000. My Turkish friend and I did the Selamlik tour. The grounds are beautiful - the palace's interior is constructed off wood. Tours start about every 15 minutes - or until there are 20 people. There are guides who speak English. The Sultan really liked chandeliers - the woodwork, is quite impressive. The Victory room is stunning. The Sultan's hamam is included with this tour. The hamam is all alabaster - very beautiful. The harem tour is a separate ticket. After the tour my friend and I walked around the grounds then went to Mavi Balik for lunch. St. Chora The mosaics and the frescos in the church are beautiful. Admission is 10.000.000 TL. A guide approached us and offered his services - 25.000.000 TL for about a 45 minute tour of the mosaics, frescos and history of the church - very informative. The restaurant, Asitane, is located right next to St. Chora.

Here are the menus for Tugra - while the quality and the service was very good, something about the room just didn't work for me. Maybe it would be better during the day when you can really see the Bosphorus and the sunlight floods the enormus rooms. DEGUSTATION MENU Sea bass, dorado and grouper cold stew prepared with Ottoman style garnishes, Served with carrots, potato and pickled onions Ottoman chicken soup, Seasoned with plain yoghurt and leek Beef mixed with pistachios and raisins “Börek”, Served with cucumber and yoghurt sauce Pan-fried “lor” cheese Sauteed with black olives and char-coaled red bell pepper Ottoman style braised lamb with dried plum and apricot, Served with pilaf rice “sakiye” pudding Served with lime sorbet and sour cherry sauce Tea, coffee and Petit four 89m TL MODERN TURKISH CUISINE STARTERS Grilled artichoke Mixed with garden arugula and blackened shrimp, Served with gingered extra virgin olive oil and lemon sauce 21m TL Ottoman style “Börek” plate With “Vertika”, puff and “Su Börek” 19m TL Oven-baked anchovy with rice pilaf served with sorrel salad 22m TL Char-coaled eggplant With vegetable confit, hummus and crispy pita bread 17m TL Cold mezzes “Tugra” style 20m TL Hot mezzes “Tugra” style 21m TL Chef’s trio of seasonal vegetables cooked in olive oil 16m TL MAIN COURSES Ancient “Tire” style grilled meatballs With “Harise-Ke_kek” wheat & meat purée, char-coaled tomato and green pepper 34m TL Traditional “Tike” kebab, With cracked wheat pilaf and grilled vegetable 36m TL Oven-cooked fillet of sole in a cream mussel sauce With sauteéd Anatolian herbs and saffron pilaf rice 33m TL “Çentik” kebab Grilled loin of lamb, meatballs and chicken breast pieces On crispy matchstick potatoes With yoghurt and spicy chili butter sauce 35m TL Blue fish cooked on char-coal With stewed potatoes, red onion relish and rocket leaves 38m TL CLASSIC OTTOMAN CUISINE STARTERS Chickpea and wheat “Toyga” soup 17m TL Shrimp and “Teke” octopus salad with lemon sauce 22m TL Spinach and cheese “Piruhi Börek” With oven-baked tomato sauce, drained yoghurt and chili butter sauce 19m TL Grilled calamari, Served with spices, marinated “Kalamata” olives and tomatoes 22m TL Ottoman style vine leaves embedded with air-dried beef Served with tomato sauce 19m TL MAIN COURSES Grilled loin of lamb with rosemary, Served with eggplant purée, minted onion salad and “Firik” style smoked cracked wheat pilaf 36m TL Baked breast of chicken “Topkapi” stuffed with oriental rice pilaf, Spinach “Timbale” and cream saffron sauce 34m TL Young veal “Kapama” flavoured with mastic Served with Swiss chard, romaine lettuce and fresh spices 39m TL Sea bass “Külbasti”, Served with eggplant “Dizme”, baby potatoes and a red pepper relish 39m TL Meat stuffed air dried eggplant and red bell pepper With sour pomegranate sauce 27m TL DESSERTS Assorted Turkish cheese plate with traditional garnishes 24m TL “Elmasiye” strawberry jelly, Served with crispy cinnamon “Baklava” dough, thick cream and mastic ice-cream Crispy pumpkin confit “Nouvelle” Served with clotted cream ice-cream TuGra style semolina halva “Nouvelle” Served with cinnamon ice-cream A Trio of Turkish desserts: Oven-browned rice pudding with mastic, Palace style “Baklava” and “Elmasiye” strawberry jelly Palace style light pudding, Served with fresh strawberries and rose water “Mara_” style selection of Turkish ice creams Flavoured with mastic, black mulberry and chocolate 17m TL per item

Instead of doing a day-by-day, step-by-step report I'm just going to touch upon some highlights of my Istanbul trip: Asitane menu highlights: "...Ottoman Heritage - Delicacies from the Palace Ottoman cuisine is a buried treasure. The heritage of a great empire which lasted for 700 years. A synthesis of Central Asian, Anatolian , and European flavors. Deeply influenced by the culinary cultures of the Middle East, North Africa, Russia, and Greece. Unfortunately very few recipes from this rich cuisine survived due to a tradition which demanded that cooks guilds keep their recipes and cooking techniques secret. Here at Asitane, we have made it our mission to reintroduce Ottoman cooking to the world. Since 1990, a dedicated staff have hunted down lost tastes with academic zeal. We consulted a variety of sources, including the budget ledgers of the three main palace kitchens – Topkapi, Edirne and Dolmabahçe- and the memoirs of foreign diplomats or visitors to try and recreate authentic Ottoman cuisine..." White Bean Paste White beans mashed with cinnamon and lemon juice, served with fresh herbs. 7.000.000 TL Special Humus Ground chickpeas with lemon juice, cinnamon,black currants and pine nuts. 7.000.000 TL Vine leaves stuffed with a blend of sour cherries, rice, onions and pine nuts, cooked lightly in olive oil. Seasoned with black pepper and cinnamon. 8.000.000 TL Grilled Circassian Cheese with Oyster Mushrooms. 12.000.000 TL Aubergine with Cheese Fried aubergine slices with “Gönen” cottage cheese. 8.000.000 TL Almond Soup A light almond broth flavoured with grated coconut. 6.000.000 TL Fresh Fish en Papillote Choice fillet of sea bass or umbrina wrapped in parchment and slow baked. 24.000.000 TL Asitane Wrap Baked aubergines mixed with grilled mince meat, tomatoes, and green peppers, wrapped in a sheet of pasta and served with peppermint sauce. 14.000.000 TL Date Shaped Meat Kebab Mince meat of lambs seasoned with cinnamon, cardamom, anise and spearmint. 14.000.000 TL Stuffed Melon Cored melon stuffed with mincemeat, rice, herbs, almonds, currants and pistachio nuts and baked. 16.000.000 TL Quail with Aubergine Baked and boned quail stuffed in a whole aubergin, baked and served with a sweet basil sauce. 20.000.000 TL Mutanjene Diced lamb with shallots, dried apricot, red raisins,vinegar, honey and almonds baked slowly in an earthenware casserole known as "guvech". 16.000.000 TL Finger-shaped pastries in heavy grape syrup. 6.000.000 TL Morello Cherry Sweet Toasted bread soaked with morello cherry syrup and topped with cream. 6.000.000 TL

Heard back from the Black Rooster - unfortunately they won't be open until December.

Balikci Sabahattin (The Fisherman) Cankurtaran, Sultanahmet http://www.armadahotel.com.tr/pg_en/armada.asp?ID=36 Located in the Sultanahamet, down some alleyways and stairs, next to the Armada Hotel - my friends and I sat outside under a large umbrella (which protected later from a light sprinkle), the smell of grilled fish wafting by. We started with a bottle of raki, an assortment of cold and hot mezzes (the calamari was crisp, feather light, firm not chewy or doughy). The cold mezes were delicate, restrained - an obvious sure hand seasoning each dish. Just point to what looks good and dive in. We each order grilled fish - blue fish, red mullet and bonito - all very flavorful, but just a tad dry - and a couple bottles of Turkish white, Dessert consisted of stuffed figs and some type of quince dessert. The setting is relaxing - the food is well prepared. The total bill came to almost 200 million (about $120) but for three people and the quality, not to mention in the Sultanahamet area - quite reasonable. Zeyrekhane Sinaga Mahallesi Ibadethane Arkasi Sok. No 10, Zeyrek-Fatih I waited here due to rain as my guide went for his car. Located in front the Byztanine church, Pantokrator Monestary, in the Fatih area - this restaurant has a great view of the Golden Horn, and the Galata Tower. I ordered a small meze platter - which was pleasant. But what was really great was the complimentary dish of pickles - these were so good. This restaurant also has a huge terrace - which I'm sure in the spring and summer is great. Pandeli Located in the Spice Market on the second floor - the food here was fine. My guide and I order some smoked aubergine - I had kofte, he boiled lamb. Everything was fine - we did catch the restaurant near the end of lunch which may explain why certain mezzes weren't available. While I wouldn't say this was a must do - the location is convenient and the turquoise tiled room makes for a pleasant setting. Boncuk Balikpazan Nevizade Sok., No. 19, Beyoglu http://www.nevizademeyhaneleri.com/boncuk Located on Nevizade - if you have trouble locating this street just ask. We went on Friday night - the whole area was jam packed with people - real riotous scene - quite fun and light hearty. Yes, you will be approached by numerous restaurants asking you to dine at their establishment. I can't tell you about the quality of the other places. There is seating outside at Boncuk but I don't believe they take reservations - just get there early on a friday or Saturday night. We ordered a flurry of mezzes, salad (my friends thought the dressing was a bit too vinegary but the produce was very good) and raki. The calamari here was doughy and chewy. Mezes dish prices ranged from 2.000.000 to 6.000.000. For the life of me - I can't remember if we had main dishes - I just remember us devouring the mezzes, mainly because we had been with guides all day and were ravenous. Saray Istikial Caddesi, No. 102-104, Beyoglu http://www.saraymuhallebicisi.com Located on Istikail Caddessi - we stopped off here for dessert - lured in by the glistening variations of baklava in the window. I ordered the pudding made with shredded chicken breast - which had similar flavors to rice pudding but a unusual (but not negative) texture,. My friends baklava variations failed to impress - but there are numerous dessert places on Istikal Caddessi. Istikail Caddessi was thronged with people. Asistane Kariye Camii Sok. N0. 18 34240, Edirnekapi http://www.kariyeotel.com Located right next to St. Chora (must see Byzantine mosaics and frescos) - specializes in Ottoman cuisine. A neutral toned understated dining room. The dishes are very different than regular Turkish cuisine - some of the dishes were from a sultan's circumcision fete. The dishes were more complex and subtly spiced. One friend ordered smoked aubergine - which was delicious and beautifully presented. My other friend had a hummus dish that incoporated cinnamon and raisins - very interesting. I had stuff grape leaves with sour cherry - the sour cherry was overwhelmed by the vinegar. We all had various lamb dishes. I would recommend this place - and will definitely come back next time I'm in Istanbul. Tugra, Cirgan Kimpenski Hotel Ciragan Caddesi 32, Besiktas http://www.ciragan-palace.com This hotel is huge - does not have the intimate scale that the Four Seasons has but it was a palace in it former life. Situated on the bosphorus - -live music playing. My friends and I did the tasting menu (89.000.000 TL) with dishes such as pan-fried “lor” cheese sauteed with black olives and char-coaled red bell pepper; Ottoman style braised lamb with dried plum and apricot, served with pilaf rice ; sea bass, dorado and grouper cold stew prepared with Ottoman style garnishes The quality of the meal was very good - the service was attentive yet something about the room didn't make this an astonishing evening. I'm not sure - maybe it was where our table was located or the enormity of the room. Jacket was required yet numerous people arrived casually dressed - which may have detracted from the surroundings. The Turkish Merlot we had was fantastic. Make sure to walk around the grounds. I believe there is also a Sunday brunch outside on the terrace Hali Istiklal Caddesi, No. 211, Beyoglu This was probably the only meal that was average - we made the mistake of ordering one of those large assortment platters. The gozleme were okay - nothing special. The freshly grilled chicken kebabs were very good - but most everything else seems to have been sitting around for a while. I would recommend ordering individual dishes anywhere you go - even though there are numerous restaurants that have trays of all-ready prepared food. Kor Agop Ordekli Bakkal Sok. No 7, Kumkapi I had read negative reviews about the Kumkapi area - tourists being ripped off. However - I found an article by an food writer who lives in Istanbul - who recommended this meyhane. The taxi dropped us off at the pedestrian mall -and we were prodded to eat at various restaurants ("I have 5 children to feed, please eat at my restaurant") We found Kor Agop but there was only one other table filled - I was bit concerned as we sat down - especially when the small band began to play a bit too loudly. We ordered various mezes, salad, fish and two bottles of white Turkish wine. The fish was quite good - moist and flavorful. I think the total bill only came to 71.000.000 TL (fish was actually more expensive in other places on the Bosphorus) The band of course serenaded our table for a tip - but hey, go with the flow and have fun - I imagine this area is packed friday and Saturday. Can't comment on any of the other places here. One note - my hotel did recommend taking a taxi to this area - that the surrounding area can be unsafe. Yedigul Iskele Meydani No. 4, Anadolukavagi This restaurant is located in Andalu Kavagi - the last ferry stop on the Bosphorus before returning to Istanbul. After walking up to the Genoese castle we stopped here for lunch and sat on the second floor which has a nice view of village - and it's right near the ferry stop. We order a assortment of mezes - the white bean and sardines were great - some raki and turkish white . For our main entree we all ordered jumbo shrimp. These were horrible - mushy and an ammonia smell - we should have sent them back ( next restaurant - no doubt) The manager had recommended lufte - the seasonal fish at the time. This meal was more expensive than Kor Agop in Kumkapi - maybe because they have a monopoly on visitors. There are other numerous restaurants in the village. Seasons Restaurant, Four Seasons Hotel, Sultanhament Tevkifhane Sok. No. 1, Sultanahmet http://www.fourseasons.com/istanbul/dining.../dining_49.html My friends were leaving for Munich in the morning so we decided to have dinner at the Four Season. The food is very well prepared - the room is pleasant. Modern updated turkish dishes and international dishes are offered. The Sunday brunch ($30 US) is a popular scene for the well to do Istanbulites. Develi Samatya Gumusyuzuk Sok. No. 7, Samatya http://www.develikebap.com Reviews had praised this specific location for their kebaps. The restaurant also has views of the marmara Sea. Had lunch here - everything was delicious - the "raw" kofte, the lamucun, the pistachio kebabs, the walnut dessert - everything. Unfortunately the upper floors and terrace weren't open for lunch so we only had a partial view of the sea. The room is very nicely decorated in maroons and cream whites. The only odd thing was they don't serve alcohol/wine until the evening (possibly 9 pm - might have been due to Ramazan - not sure) Great little neighborhood - small children playing, the food vendors splashing their produce. I would recommend this specific location highly. 5th Floor Soganci Sok. 7, Cihangir http://www.5kat.com A bit hard to find but the view is top notch. A very hip vibe and upscale crowd. Ordered a bottle of Turkish sparkling wine - Tradokya - which was crisp, dry and very enjoyable. Watching the mini boats and traffic from this perch was relaxing and fun. My friend and I ordered cocktails and raki for the next few hours. The restaurant serves more international food - I ordered a tomato/turkish white cheese salad and my friend order chicken fingers with potatoes - which were both fine and took the edge off all the alcohol. The terrace was closed for the season - but if the view from the bar is any indication, it must be great. Mavi Balik (Blue Fish) Muallim Naci Caddesi, No. 64/2, Kurucesme http://www.mavibalik.com Great place to have lunch after touring the Dolmabache. A panoramic view of the Bosphorus and Bosphorus Bridge. The grilled calamari and fish were very good. Terrace is open for the summer - if you're looking for a place to have diner during sunset, I would recommend this place. The Turkish white, Ozel Kav, was prefect with the fish. Former name was Mavi Yesil (Blue Green) Le Pecheur Yenikoy Caddesi, No. 80, Tarabya http://www.lepecheurrestaurant.com Located in Tarabya - the green blue Bosphorus literally wraps around the main dining room. A large display of fish and a large fish tank greets you at the entrance. We started off with stuffed mussels, smoked salmon, cheese and melon, octopus salad. some other mezes and a bottle of raki. The freshly baked Ramazan bread was still warm, chewy and delicious. For fish, my friend ordered lufte and I ordered sea bass.Both fish grilled perfectly - the flesh was moist and infused with the scent of the grill - really quite good. The temperature had dropped considerably and the mist that developed looked like ghosts dancing on the water. A cab back from Tarabya to the sultanhamet area cost 20.000.000. Misc: My friends and I were there for the beginning of Ramazan. Small Ottoman like houses, selling various foods, were built between the Blue Mosque and the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts. Salep (so wonderfully satisfying on a chilly evening), profiterols, gozleme, baklava, baked potatoes, etc etc, etc were avilable and incredibly inexpensive - a festive fun scene. My Turkish friend and I went to Camlica, the highest point in Istanbul, located on the Asian side - take a ferry to Uskudar then a cab to "big" Camlica, the view of the Bosphorus Bridge and the lower Bosphorus is great. "Small" Camlic's views are not as good. There were restaurants there but did not try being that we had dinner reservations in Tarabya.

Not sure why the link for Zlata Studna doesn't work - here's the correct one. Still waiting to hear from the Black Rooster id they have opened in their new location. Will post when they do. http://www.zlatastudna.cz/

Croatian currency - kuna ($1 US = 6.32 kn) check out this currency conversion website: http://www.oanda.com/convert/cheatsheet

misc. price list: 8.50 kn - 1 liter of mineral water 8 kn - 2 scoops of gelatto / ice cream 300 kn - scooter rental for 4 to 12 hrs 6 kn - single espresso 15 kn - 1/2 kilo of dried figs 10 kn - admission to the fortress 55 kn - roll o f 100 ASA slide film (ow!) 40 kn - a bottle of homemade rekija 40 kn - boat taxi to Palminzana 150 kn - boat excursion to Bol, includes lunch 250 kn - boat excursion to the Blue and Green Caves and Vis 2 - 3 kn - postcard 12 kn - glass of Prosec 300 kn - 1st class whole grilled fish 500 kn - grill 1 kilo lobster 40 kn - 1 liter of house wine 100 - 210 kn - for bottle of wine ordered in restaurant 22 kn - fast catamaran from Hvar to Split (a little over 1 hr) 33 kn - slow ferry from Split to Hvar 30 kn - Croatia Airline bus from Split Airport to Town Terminal 5 kn - to store luggage for 2 hrs while in Split 30 kn - girice ( small fried fish) 50 - 70 kn - Dalmatian ham 60 kn - risotto "frutti de mare" 120 kn - spaghetti with lobster Any questions, please feel free to ask.......

Day 7 Woke early to see if the Blue Grotto was a go - unfortunately partly cloudy skies cancelled the excursion. I was able to appraise what excusrion the taxi boats were offering that day and decide to go to Piscena (50 kn), which I read had interesting caves also. Had espresso at one one of the cafes on the square then went to the farmers market and bought some home-made wine in a plastic bottle and some dried figs. The boat left at 10:30 and took about 30 minutes to get to the caves - Michael dropped anchor and we passengers swam around the caves for about 30 minutes. We then went to Piscena, which is a smooth pebbled cove tucked in between some mountains. Everyone spread out a polite distance from each other. At first the group of British girls kept talking and talking but as the sun got higher in the sky, the clouds disappated and with the repetive surge of the sea - the tranquility of the place settled down upon everyone. Michael also has a restaurant at the cove - eating at is optional and additonal money. I walked up to see him stoking the grill with wood - he told me lunch would be ready in a few hours. Around 1 Michael came down to the beach with complimentry glasses of Prosec. We talked about Prosec and I was surprised to learn that there is a wide range of Prosec - even a white one. Between the home made wine and figs, going for swims, napping underneath a warm sun, watching sailboats and yatchs go by, the sound of crickets, the blue green clear cool water - I realized that for the past 6 days I had been runnning around and had not really kicked backed - this was the perfect last day for me (I'll do the Blue Grotto next year). Around 3 I went up for lunch - ham, a whole grilled fish (180 kn) and the house white. Adding tip the total came to 250 kn - a wondeful meal and setting. We left the cove at 5. During the summer there is a music program with students practicing in the gallery in front of the Palace Hotel - tonight they were giving a concert( 30 kn) to benefit the Arsenal. All week as I had been leaving the hotel I would hear flautists practicing - I attended their performance. Afterwards I had another dreamy meal outside Macondo - the lobster spaghetti contained a tail and one claw - the meat was so sweet and tender, 2nd class fish with roasted vegetables, house white and prosec for dessert . (Milan had informed me that in Croatia they have 1st class fish, 2nd class fish and 3rd class fish all priced accordingly, as are scooters) The walkway had emptied out and I was alone - sitting underneath lamps swaying in the breeze, Ella Fitzgerald in the background. Departure 8 am - one last walk along the harbour and an espresso at one of the outdoor cafes. The catamaran ferry left at 9 am and I arrived back in Split in1 hour. The Croatian Airline bus arrives at the terminal 1 1/2 hours before their departing flight to take you to the airport (30 kn). The flight home was uneventful - Lufthansa is a nice airline - Franfurt looks to be a great jump off point. Got home around 9:30 pm but unfortunately the kennel was already closed - coming home to an empty apartment made me a bit meloncholy. Picked up my dog next morning and got back to the work routine. Next destination: Istanbul.

Day 4 Woke to intermittent rain. Walked over to the Franciscan Monastery and got caught there for about 2 hours due to heavy downpour. It was kinda pleasant sitting in the cloistered courtyard listening to the rain splatter on the white marble - the church bells ringing on the hour. The rain finally eased and I went and had lunch at Palaca Paladini - spaghetti frutti de mare, grilled squid and the house white. Afterwards walked around exploring and photographing from various vantage points. Coming back into town along the harbor edge I noticed the clouds were breaking up and the setting sun light was washing over the the town. I stopped at The Two Fisherman - which is located near the Hotel Adriatic on the harbor - grab a table, ordered some house white, local cheese and dalmation ham and watched the sun light shift from golden yellow to pink, as evening settle over the town and harbor. Across the harbor the moon was rising behind the hill of houses, beneath the silhouetted royal palm trees people walk along the harbor's edge, sailboats mooring lines creaked and groaned while their masts sway to and fro, wisps of clouds from today's storm obscure the moon. Finally the full moon made her appearance. The city dried from the breezes and the sky cleared. Met Alan from Paris - had drinks along the harbor's edge and walked around the town soaking in the vibe. Day 5 Had arrange a boat excursion (150 kn, lunch included) with Atlas Tours to Bol on the island of Brac. Cruise started at 9 am and took about 2 1/2 hours to get there. Lunch was included but I wanted to get off the boat and explore Bol before heading off to the Golden Horn. Bol doesn't have a lot of ambience - the harbor is charming. Had lunch at Gust - excellent. Lobster salad, salted sardines, green spaghetti frutti de mare and the house white. Instead of taking a water taxi from Bol to the Godlen Horn I strongly recommend walking there. The walk goes along the coast, under pine trees and takes about 25 minutes at a leisurely pace. The Golden Horn is a smooth peeble beach which juts out to point - one one side of the Horn wind surfers, jet skies and boat swarm like humming birds. The setting is sublime - the mountains lord over the Horn, blue clear water on your left and right, the sound of the waves on the pebbles, a gentle breeze. I wish I had a full day here - I would recommend spending 2 nights here - 3 hours was not enough. The boat ride back was a tad long. There is a boat taxi from Bol to Jelsa but not sure of the times. Had a small dinner at Farina - the huge patio is underneath a huge canopy of grape vines with clusters of grapes within arms reach. Restaurant seem to cater more to larger groups and families. Had a hvar plate (ham, pag cheese, sardines and sea food salad) and carpet shells (briny clams) Met Milan, an illustrator I work with, who is now living in Hvar with his wife , Kiko, for drinks. Sitting in the front of the cathedral - kids playing soccer, outdoor cafes buzzing, the square leading my eyes to the boats at the opposite end, the church bells ringing - why can't America have public spaces like this? After drinks went to bed early. Day 6 - Woke up early to clear blue skies - however due to winds the Blue Grotto tours had been moved to the next day - decided to rent a scooter again and go to Jelsa, Verboska and the south side of the island. Early morning light sparkles off the water - the sweeping views of the surrounding islands was dreamy and made me constantly pull over to take it all in. Headed to Jelsa - another sleepy town which is wonderful to just walk around and get lost in - the gentle breezes rustle the pomegranite trees which hung over the walls. Decided to go to Zatvala - which is on the south side of the island. To get to this town you must drive through a very long, dark one-car width tunnel - and the control light was not working. To say the least it was a bit unnerving and then once out of the tunnel you must do numerous tight switch backs. Going down wasn't so hard but coming back up concerned me. Found a smooth peebled beach - the island Scredo opposite. Laid out and swam for a few hours then had lunch at Skalinada - gnocci with gorgonzola, fresh caught fish fillet with potatos and zuchinni and the house white. I saw the chef buying this huge fish for a family of 6 - he had a few extra fillets left over. It was so fresh and all for 150 kn, tip included. Had promised Milan and Kiko I woud stop by their house in Verbanja - I found the town but not their house. After 45 minutes of driving around - shouting "MILAN! KIKO!" - I took off for Verbroska because I wanted another swim. A small town with bridges spanning a central canal which opens to a harbor. Pulled off numerous times to take a swim - around 5 pm iI realized that sunset from the Fortress should be perfect. I raced back to Hvar - the sun slowly setting behind the mountains and the temperature getting cooler. The belvederes along the way kept making me stop, pull out my camera and my video cam. I dropped the bike off around 6:30 and raced up the mountain to the Fortress to watch sunset. Clouds of purples and oranges, slate blue storm clouds, rain and lightning on the horizon, purple islands - the sunset was framed by two thunderstorms on the horizon with lightening. Had dinner at Memego again - an Italian couple from Venice was sat at the same table. Through broken English and Italian we talked and laughed - they insisted I let them know when I visit Venice so they can show me around. They mentioned that this was the 7th time to Croatia and maybe, just maybe, they liked Sardenia a bit more.

Day 2 - Caught a boat taxi to Palminzana (40 kn round trip - 30 minute ride), one of the islands of the Otok Pakelini. The pebbled beach is small and has three restaurants fronting it. I walked out along one side of the cove - found a spot and caught some sun. Had lunch a Zori - sitting under pine trees, the gentle swells surging right below me, the hiss of the water on smooth pebbles. Later on a large group of teenage Italian boys and girls took over the beach - laughing, shouting, giggeling - it was beautiful watching them play ( I almost felt a bit lascivious watching). The boys showing off, jumping off each other's shoulders - the girls posing on the small stone docks. A light rain in the afternoon but the taxi arrived 5 minutes early. Had dinner at Menego and once again, just walked around town - up and down stairs, a drink along the harbor. An Irish and Australian couple invited me to join them at their table for drinks - afterwards we went to Carpe Diem. Lots of attractive men and women and a cool vibe - very restrained considering the amount of drinking going on. The owners of the yatchs and sailboats moored along the harbor watched the love parade from the comfort of their boats. Later my new friends and I went for an au natural late night swim under a waxing moon. Day 3 Rented a scooter and headed off to Stari Grad. Drove through burned swaths of forest and green swaths of forest. Strange burned landscape with stone piled walls. Stari Grad is very quiet and I could see living here - Hvar is very lively in comaprison. There were moments where I would take a breath and I felt my whole being relax - spread out a bit. The town stretches along both sides of a long harbor - one can see the mountains of neighboring islands and the coast in the distance. Had lunch a Juro Podrum - ham, spaghetti with lobster (65 kn), girice and house white wine. The spaghetti had lobster, capers, tomatoes, garlic. Small restaurant - 20 people max. The owner: "...may, june, september and october are the best months....july and august are too busy..." Walked along the harbor to the Hotel Levanda and swam - the misty clouds pouring over the green mountains. Slowly made my way back to Hvar - signage is very easy to understand. Had dinner at Macondo - get a table outside - the lamps shades swaying in the breeze, the soft light on the tan white stones, people passing by. Had the chef's recommendations - combo platter of fish pate, octopus salad and anchovies; risotto fruta de mare, 1st class fish fillet with grilled vegetables. Ordered a bottle of white - Bodanjusa. Desert - watermelon and then a couple glasses of Prosec - deep ruby red not the brown oloroso type served at the bars. During dinner I heard thunder in the distance. The midnight blue sky changing to periwinkle then back. Near the end of my meal the heavens opened and released a torrent of rain - couples rain soaked but laughing, instant waterfalls created by the numerous stairs. It hadn't rained for 9 months - they needed it plus it gave me an opportunity to see the town in a different light.

Departure / Arrival : Flew NYC to Frankfurt to Split. Croatia Airlines has a bus (30 kn) that takes you to the town terminal (ferries, buses, taxis all in one place). We were late leaving Frankfurt so the 2 pm fast ferry to Hvar was sold out by the time I got to the Jadrolinja ticket booth. Bought at ticket for the 3:30 slow ferry and checked my luggage (5 kn for 2 hours; near bus terminal, across from where the ferries dock) and explored Diocletian's Palace. Split is dirty, dusty, lots of graffiti, lots of tourist shops, ugly apartment buildings - I would suggest spending just a few hours and then moving on. Ferry tickets can be bought one day in advance - recommended for fast ferries. Slow ferry took about 2 1/2 hours. Stayed at the Palace Hotel (61 euro a night, full board; half-board 56 euro a night) - great location with communist charm and furnishings are very minimal. Clean but very modest. If you stay here request a double, harbor side, second or third floor, unobstructed view. I would recommend getting half board. Another option: the Hotel Adriatic - a good location but I would be concerned about the bars along the harbor playing music till 4 am. Best bet - rent a soba from a Croatian - make sure it's within town. All the church bells in town ring at 6am (and one at 7:15 am just to make sure you're awake) - and the ferry signals departure at 8:30 am and 8:45 am before leaving at 9 am - be prepared to start the day early or bring ear plugs. After showering went to the Konoba Luna for dinner, then drinks along the harbor's edge and finally to bed. Day 1 - After breakfast grabbed my towel, swimming goggles and went for a swim - you can walk along the harbor either way and in time find a place to spread out. There is mostly rock beaches (not smooth pebbled beaches) which makes getting into the water a bit tricky. Aqua shoes are a must - makes for getting in and out safer and protects your feet from sea urchins. Spent the afternoon at the Fortress, which is situated high above Hvar town - the view over the town and the surrounding islands is beautiful - the sunlight dancing off the water, the town's tannish white stone buildings and clay tiled roofs, ferries arriving and leaving, sailboats and yatchs cruising around the islands, people walking along the harbor's edge, church bells ringing. There is a restaurant in the Fortress - I had a couple glasses of house wine sitting along the wall and just taking it all in - letting the "island life" mind-set sink in. As I was walking back down through the town I heard nuns singing afternoon prayers at the convent. Had dinner at The Golden Shell - the owner is a member, as am I, of Slow Foods - very personable man. Afterwards, meandered the narrow stone walkways around town and had a few drinks along the harbor.

Just got back from Hvar, Croatia - a wonderful Mediterranian island in the Adriatic. Vineyards, olive tree groves, pomegranite trees, fig trees, the blue green Adriatic, royal palm trees....dalmation ham, fresh fish, mussels, clams, scampi, lobster, local wines, local olive oil.... Luna Konoba tel 021-741-400; mob 098-748-695 Petra Hektorovica 5 luna-hvar@st.hinet.hr Located directly across from the Golden Shell - the third floor is open to the sky. The food is well prepared - had fish pate with smoked salmon, octopus salad and spaghetti buzara - ordered bottle of white Zlatan Otok. I was a bit jet lagged but thought everything was quite good. Cool hip music played discreetly in the background. Golden Shell Petra Hektorovica 8 mob 098-16-88-797 The owner is a member of Slow Food. Started off with dalmation ham and goat cheese in olive oil, for entree a steak stuffed with goat cheese and capers with a side order of swiss chard and potatoes - ordered a bottle of Zlatan Otok red. Everything was well prepared The owner is very personable. I realized half way back across the Atlantic that dumplings on the menu probably meant ravioli (doh!). Would have like to have gotten back here for another meal - next year. Zori Palmizana, Pakleni Otoci tel 385-021-718-231; mob 098-168-3377 zori_palmizana@hi.hinet.hr Fresh grilled scampi, dalmation ham and a bottle of Luviji (white). Had a couple glasses of Prosec for dessert. Food that is somewhat challenging to eat is always an adventure for me - am I suppose to eat this or more importantly, am I NOT suppose to eat that? Also getting the hands messy (ahh the puritan ethic). Everything was satisfying and the setting over looking the cove, underneath pine and fig trees is very tranquil. Menego Vl. Dinko Kovacevic tel. 021-742-036; mob. 091-548-5845 www.menego.hr menegohvar@mail.inet.hr This restaurant only serves what I would call starters (almost tapas size portions). The care, attention and pride of their products is obvious - almost everything I had was superb. Marinated anchovies, Pag cheese, octopus salad (with chick peas mixed in adding a nice contrast of textures), dalmation ham (smooth and buttery), dalmation bacon ( a bit thicker and chewier), the house wine, figs stuffed with almonds and soaked in spirits, the orange and walnut liquors - excellent. The only thing that failed to win me over was the stuffed bread (almost like a stuffed foccia). A small cellar restaurant. I met a couple from Venice my second time here. Jorum Podrum Duonja kola, Stari Grad, Hvar tel 021-765-829; mob 091-573-63-76 jurinpodrum@yahoo.com Recommended in Footprint. Had the house white, some dalmation ham, spaghetti with lobster ( the tomatoes, capers, garlic, white wine - wonderful) and a plate of fresh fried girice (little fish which could be eaten whole). The owner told me the best months are May, June, September and October - July and August are too busy. Macondo Groda bb tel. 021 -742-850 macondo@st.hinef.hr Situated about a block off the main square and near Hektorovica unfinished house - this is one of the more upscale restaurants. The food quality is excellent. I did the chef's recommendations - hvar sampler plate of fish pate-octopus salad- marinated anchovies, fruta di mare risotto, fish fillet w/roasted vegetables. Ordered a bottle of white - Bodanjusa. For desert - a couple slices of fresh succulent watermelon. Try and get a table outside along the walkway - the lights swaying in the breeze, people passing by - makes for a wonderful setting. Finished with some homemade prosec - which was a deep ruby red. had my last dinner here - lobster spaghetti (140 kn), other white fish (120 kn), grilled vegetable (25 kn) a 1/2 liter of house white (30 kn) - once again a beautiful peaceful setting - late at night I had the walkway to myself. Palaca Paladini Luci Antun Tudor, Hvar tel 385-021-742-104 email: paladinis@tihi-hvar.com Located near Golden Shell and Konoba Luna. Had spaghetti fruta de mare, grilled squid and a liter of the house white. The grilled squid were excellent. Two Fisherman (Dua Ribara) located on Fabrika; between Stelle di mare and Hotel Adriatic; along the harbor's edge tel 021-741-109 Great view of the town and harbor - try a get a table during sunset. Ordered a plate of dalmation ham, locally made cheese and a liter of house white. Decide to try the lamb which was okay - maybe a little over cooked. But the view is great. The lemon ice cream was a nice a finish. Gust Frane Radica 14, Bol, Brac tel 385-21-635-911; mob 098-423-003 Recommended in Footprint. Had lobster salad and salted sardines (with a slice of onion and some olive oil - delicious) and the green spaghetti fruta de mare (scampi, mussels,, shrimps, clams). If you're in Bol this is a good choice. Faria Ulica sv. Marka, Hvar mob 098-361-543 Located to the left of the cathedral. I stumbled upon this place my first jet lagged night in Hvar after having two bottles of wine and had a helluva time finding it again. he huge patio is under a canopy of grape vines with clusters of grapes within arms reach. The restaurant seems to cater more to large groups and families. Tried a hvar plate (sampling of ham, pag cheese, sardines and seafood salad) and carpet shells ( clams - not as plump as mussels but briny and plentiful. Hotel Skalinada Zavala, Hvar tel / fax 385-021-767-019 After driving through a very long dark tunnel and making my way down a steep twisting road I found this restaurant on the south side of the island. A fisherman was delivering a freshly caught fish to the owner/chef. I started with gnochhi with gorgonzola (50 kn) and a fillet from the freshly caught fish with zuchinni + potatoes (70 kn) and a liter of the house white (20 kn). There are also rooms for rent - if you're looking for a true get away on the island the south side is the place to go. Piscena Piscena, Hvar boat taxi - Mice Domancic mob ++385-91-1742-936 The Blue Grotto had been canceled so I decided to take a boat taxi (50 kn) to a private cove, which just happened to have a restaurant owned by the boat taxi driver (eating there is optional). While I swam and laid out, MIchael started up a wood fire in the grill. I had ham(20 kn), a whole grilled fish (180 kn) and the house white (10kn) - with tip: 250 kn. The setting - the tranquility - the food - the boat ride - a perfect meal If you would like me to post my trip activities, please let me know....

I'll be greeting my 40th in Istanbul this October - after researching here and elsewhere I have a tentative list of the places i'm considering. I know some of them are bit standard but it's my first visit to Istanbul. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Not sure for my birthday dinner to go to Korfez or Tugra - any opinions? DINNER: Korfez Korfez Caddesi 78, Kanlica, 413-4314 Balikci Sabahattin Cankurtaran Sait Hasan Kuyu Solak 1, Sultanhamet, 458-1824 (behind the Armada hotel) Daruzziyafe http://www.daruzziyafe.com.tr/default.htm Tugra, Ciragan Palace Sunset Grill 5KAT Park Fora Muallim Naci Caddesi 134, Cemil Topuzlu Parki, Kurucesme, 265-5063 Haci Adullah, Beyoglu Sakiz Agaci Caddesi 17, Beyoglu, TAKSIM BACK UP: Kiyi Kefelikoy Caddesi 126, Tarabya, 262 0002 LUNCH: Armada Hotel terrace http://www.armadahotel.com.tr/index.shtm restaurant in Uskudas Haci Baba, Taksim Pandeli, Spice Bazaar Kumkapi, Istiklal, Nevizade Street - pedestrian restaurant streets Feriye (very close to Ciragan) Mavi Yesil, Kurucesme Muallim Naci Sokak 170, Kurucesme, 265 5481 ALTERNATES: Galata Bridge cafes - you can have a wonderful view of the Eminonu Pier and the Topkapi, with all the ferries coming and going. Specially nice for the sunsets, you can have a wonderful view of the Istanbul skyline

Just a head ups - the Black Rooster is in the process of moving into central Prague and will hopefully be open by the end of August. They serve great contemporary Czech cuisine. http://www.cernykohout.cz

201 - Here how to get to my Oaxaca page: 1. go to virtualtourist.com 2. in the 'SEARCH FOR' box enter MARKTYNERNYC, click on MEMBERS then hit GO 3. under member & motto click on marktynernyc 4. click on 'VIEW ALL TRAVEL PAGES' (right side of web page) 5. scroll down to North America: Mexico: Estado de Oaxaca: click on Oaxaca de Juarez which will take you to my Oaxaca page

One other thing - prices. For example, dinner at El Naranjo - three margaritas, soup, salad, mole dish, stuffed chile, dessert, coffee and tip came out to about $450 pesos - a bargain as far I'm concerned. Everything is very reasonable - and if you're on a really tight budget the mercado is the place to eat. I regret not trying some of the grilled meats at the mercado (next time).