marktynernyc

DAY 6 Breakfast is a standard affair at the Hotel Adriatic but having it on the terrace, the boats an arms throw away makes just a bit nicer - the sound of water slapping against the stone, the church bells ringing. I decided to rent a scooter and explore the island - in the farmer's market there is a speciality store with cheeses, sausages, wines, l iquors and scooters to rent. I was able to rent a scooter for 24 hours for 200 kn - compared to last year, 300 kn for 12 hrs - all I can say is shop around. I explored the interior villages - Pitve, Selca, Vrbanj - wide vistas over vineyards, mountains in the distance, the smell of pine in the air, the blue sky - a scooter is a great way to really see the island. One my favorite villages is Pitve - situated near Jelsa on the way to Zavala, located on the south side of the island. The views looking out over vineyards, Jelsa and the mountains of Bol in the distance from Pitve is seductive. There are two restaurants in Pitve - for afternoon snack I stumbled upon Knoba Dvor Dubokovic and had some wine and Dalmatian then headed to the south side of the island - to get there you have to go through a long single-car width tunnel which is thrilling to say the least - the rough hued rock just barely visible from the headlight of my scooter and the chill in the air make it memorable. Having been to Zavala last year I headed to Vina Plenkovic (www.zlatanotok.hr) in Svete Nedjelja. Here you can sample award winning wines - I did a tasting of Zavala Otok, Zaval ( unique bouquet), Zlatan Rose ( which I liked a lot, and I'm not a big rose fan), Zlatan Barik (which was quaffable), Zlatan Galeb (which struck me as ordinary) and their prosec. Their prosec was beautiful - thick, almost like a cream sherry - raisiny - I yearned for some manchego and quince. A lot of the prosec served in restaurants is adulterated crap - water downed, sugar added. It should be either a deep brown or a deep ruby red - and somewhat thick, not watery. Unfortunately the kitchen was closed for the season so all I could nibble on was Pag cheese and Dalmatian ham. The restaurant is beautiful - at times I stepped through one of the windows facing the sea and dove in - it was so wonderfully remote. I spent the afternoon here. For dinner I decided to stop at Knoba Dvor Dubokovic. I was seated on an upper terrace which gave me a panoramic view - the salted sardines, the grilled fish, watching the night gently descend. I noticed during dinner the owner was preparing lamb under the bell - I made reservations to come back to try this dish. I had forgotten to bring my jacket so the drive back was a bit chilly - at times I would pull over, turn off the motor (and thus the headlight) and just appreciate the star filled sky above, the crickets and the stillness. When I got back to Hvar I stopped off for a rikea then turned in - tomorrow the green & blue caves.

DAY 5 I was up early and caught the 7 am bus to Split (72 kn). I got to Split about 10:30 am - the catamaran to Hvar departed at 11:30 am so I checked my bags and walked around Split. We departed on time, an hour later arrived in Hvar. This year I stayed at the Hotel Adriatic (58 E a night, breakfast included) - room 110 - a picture perfect view of the harbor (unlike last year at the Palace Hotel), air conditioning and adequately furnished (unlike the Palace Hotel). For lunch I finally tried Croatian pizza (35 kn) at Kogo which is on St. Stephan's Square. Alviz, the other local favorite place for pizza, is located near the bus station, behind St. Stephan. After lunch grab my towel, swim goggles and went for a swim. The water was crystal clear - according to a store owner this is due to the numerous currents created by the Palkeni islands nearby. For sunset I hiked up to the Fortress above Hvar Grad - the view is still as wonderful as I remember - the warm golden light of the setting sun turned the town a warm pink. For dinner I went back to Menego (http://www.menego.hr/). The house wine was a revelation for me - and the artisinal food was delicious - don't forget to sign the world atlas. I had to sit upstairs which was not as comfortable as downstairs - you can make reservations. After dinner I meandered around, got some ice cream and hung out on the square. I turned in early due to being in transit so much of the day. My one concern about the Hotel Adriatic was possible noise from the bar, Carpe Diem, across the harbor but with the windows closed and the pseudo air conditioner (more white noise maker) on I was able to fall asleep with no problem.

DAY 4 I booked a Kornati excursion (250 kn), which included lunch and beverages, through the hotel the previous day. We were scheduled to leave at 9 am but being that high season was over, excursion groups were combined and we didn't leave until about 10 am. There is a market just inside the walls near the Harbor Gate - the fresh smell of produce hung thickly in the air - to buy some snacks. The only thing that concerned me about doing another boat excursion was last year on an excursion to Bol I had to listen to ABBA for 5 hours. On this excursion one could escape to the upper deck. The Kornati are islands located in the southern end of the Zadar archipelago - and were deforested due to Venetian boat building. Sheep grazing contributed to the loss of top soil and the Kornati are now practically bare islands due to the bora (winds). The rocking of the boat, the wind, the sound of the waves, the bright sunlight glittering off the deep blue Adriatic, the misty slate blue Kornati scattered to the horizon. Sailboats cruised about - their white sails billowing in the breeze. We stopped at Dugi Otok to visit the salt lake and view the white cliffs from above - then cruised around more of the islands. There are no hotels in the Kornati - however, there are a few Robinson Caruso houses available to rent - no electricity, water tank - grocery boats sail around to the houses during high season. We stopped at another island for lunch - grilled fish, lamb, salad and wine - which was fine. We made it back to Zadar around 6:30 pm. I walked over to the Riva Nova and grabbed a table at Restaurant Zadar - the only restaurant I found with outside seating where you could watch sunset. I order some seafood salad, Dalmatian ham, fried girice and wine and watched the sun set. People strolled along the quay in the early evening - the sky shifting from pink to violet to blue - ferries and boats going back and forth to the islands - I found myself wishing I could stay a few more days. Zadar is a great jumping off point - the only problem is there is little accommodations in the historic center but plenty of mega complexes north and south of the city. After dinner I wandered around again, having some ice cream and a couple drinks at a cafe located in the Forum, with a full view of St. Donat and Anastasia.

DAY 3 I spent half the day catching some sun, swimming and sleeping. There is a beach near the hotel - somewhat scruffy, barren and rocky. I found the water, while clean, not crystal clear. I walked into town to check on the ferry schedules to Dugi Otok and Sali and then grabbed a cab from the Harbor gate to Roko's (70 kn). After lunch I went back to the historic center and meandered around - stopping into Trata for some wine and Dalmatian ham, getting some ice cream and walking along the Riva Nova, sitting on a ancient column in the Roman Forum, walking along the walls which has parks and promenades on top of them. Walking along the Riva Nova I watched a bright cherry red sun set slowly behind the Zadar archipelago. For dinner I went back Kornat - the feathery lite gnocci with gorgonzola and pine nuts was so good. I turned in early because I was taking a boat excursion to the Kornati the next day.

Actually Vesnuccia - I went to Palminzana last year - had lunch at Zori - the weather wasn't cooperating very well so I wasn't able to explore the island. This year I was going to go to St. Klement (?) - Dinko's wife's parents have a restaurant and vineyard there - but the days got away from me. I remember reading about Meneghello - just not enough time.

DAY 2 My first full day in Zadar was spent sightseeing. Started with the archeology museum, A well proportioned modern building, located at the Forum. Wonderful stone carvings, decorated columns, sarcophaguses, stone friezes - be sure to check the view of the forum from the second floor. Next on my list - St. Donat (10 kn). Built in the 9th century - a pre-Romanesque, Byzantine influence church The interior of the church is plain - just space created by the arches, columns and overall circular shape of the building - I could sense the heaviness of the walls- a great, great space, the bright Croatian sunlight pouring through the few windows high above - fragments of Roman temples in the walls - musical concerts are held here during the summer. Be sure to go upstairs to the where the women would congregate. Across from St. Donat is Svete Marija - a monastery and church. Admission to the monastery is 20 kn. From the outside you would have no idea what treasures are within - I was blown away by the religious gold and silver art work, reliquaries, crucifixes, vestments, etc. And the collection is beautifully and very professionally displayed - moody lighting, dark wood glass cabinets, deep red plush carpet and in the shadows Benedictine "ninja" nuns lurk in case you pull out your camera. I spent an hour amazed at how beautiful everything was. If you see only two things in Zadar - see St. Donat and the silver and gold art at Svete Marija. Afterwards I went over to the restaurant, Kornat, for lunch. Delicious contemporary Croatian cuisine. The restaurant is set on the water's edge, boats and ferries arriving and departing. After lunch I walked back to St. Anatassia and climbed the bell tower (10 kn) for a bird's eye view of Zadar and the archipelago - which is fantastic . Afterwards, I sat inside St.Anastasia - listening to the various church bells ring, admiring the Romanesque interior. My initial disappointment in Zadar was totally vanquished by the afternoon - every corner I turned was a new discovery - small chapels, hidden courtyards, the Riva Nova. Late afternoon I went back to the hotel to lay out for a bit - the waves on the pebbled beach and the warm sun lulling me to sleep. For dinner I went to Trata - which is located behind the Roman Forum and has pieces of Roman temples in it courtyard. For dessert, ice cream - in fact, I made a point of trying new flavors every time I had ice cream - my favorite flavor was punc.

I'll try to post over the weekend.... DAY 1 As I made my way from the Split airport bus ( 30 kn) to the bus station to catch the 3 pm bus to Zadar, I saw a prospective renter/tourist literally being argued over by two rather statuesque Croatian women. One screaming in her best Natasha-Boris accent while gesturing at the other, "SHE IS VERY EXPENSIVE, VERY EXPENSIVE". (Okay so maybe dealing with political demonstrators, the NYPD and Republican conventioneers on my way through NY Penn Station the previous day was a bit easier) As the bus pulled out of the station I saw the renter still boxed in between the two women. The bus ride (72 kn) to Zadar took about 3 hours, stopping at numerous towns along the way,passing bland modern constructed suburbs and beautiful untouched pine coves, the 10 hour flight and warm sun making me drift in and out of a sleepy stupor. At the bus station in Zadar I could see the Hotel Kolovare (http://www.hotel-kolovare-zadar.htnet.hr/) sign on top of the hotel - it's about a 5 minute walk, no need to take a cab. The hotel is a 70s modern affair and has recently been updated - air conditioning, electronic card swipes, great bathroom, adequately appointed room. I asked for a sea side room but even on the top floor the pines trees blocked the view. After unpacking and showering, I walked along the water's edge for about 15 minutes till I passed through the Land Gate and into the historic center of Zadar. Unlike Dubrovnik's Old Town which is pedestrian only, Zadar's historic district does have some, though very little, vehicular traffic, unfortunately. I noticed a mix of old and new constantly in Zadar - the history of numerous countries visible around every corner in this crossroad's city. I wandered around - finding the mix of Italianate, Hapsburg, Croatian and modern architecture surprising and a bit of a let down after Hvar and Dubrovnik. I made my way to the Forum where remnants of Roman pillars and stones still stand and then back to Fosa for dinner - which is located just outside the Land Gate and city walls, on a small cove. For dessert I walked back to the Forum for some ice cream and maraschino liquor - admiring St. Donat and St. Anatassia's tower - then walked around getting gloriously lost. On one square I sipped a glass of travarica and listened to a Croatian played acoustic guitar in a cool evening breeze. At a bar on the main walk, a Croatian folk group sang accapella. The main walk, like Stradun in Dubrovnik, glistens in the night and was thronged with people. The view looking towards St, Anatasia tower at night is enchanting. After 24 plus hours of traveling and a couple more travaricas I decided to call it a night and made my way back to the hotel.

Vina Plenkovic Svete Nedjelja A beautiful stone restaurant that allows you to sample the various award winning wines. In between tastings I stepped through one of the windows to catch some sun or go for a swim. The south side of the island is a great place to spend the day. Be sure to sample their prosec. A majority of prosec served in restaurants is watered down and added sugar. Prosec should be a deep red / brown (almost like a cream sherry) and slightly heavy. Konoba Stoncica Vis Located on the island of Vis, set on a wonderful tranquil sandy cove (a rarity in Croatia) beneath palm fronds. Started with savur marinara (20 kn) which was cooked fish that had been marinated in olive oil, lemon and various herbs and marinated sardines ( 5 kn a piece) that arrived under a blanket of capers, onions, olives and a drizzle of olive oil - both dishes greedily devoured. I order 2nd class fish (80 kn, 1 KG) and potatoes, which were lightly mashed and sprinkled with herbs (20 kn) - all washed down with a 1 liter of house white (40 kn).

Konoba Lovrincevic Dubovica The only way to get to Dubovica is down a dirt trail which leads you to a wonderfully secluded, pebbled beach cove. There is only one restaurant here - Lovrincevic. After swimming and sunning for few hours I retreated to their shaded patio for some ham and house wine. Afterwards caught some more sun. For lunch I started with their octopus salad - fresh juicy tomatoes, a sprinkling of parsley, some olive oil and firm octopus - this dish almost transported me back to a beach in Huatulco. Whole grilled fish - once again - well prepared - and the house white. I think lunch came to about The quiet lull of the waves on the pebbled beach and few other people made time stand still. For dessert I had a couple glasses of prosec - which is home made - and arrived a deep ruby red, nicely chilled and just the right amount of sweet. Skalinada Zavala 021.767.019 www.skalinada-apartmani-hvar.hr Still the wonderful tranquil place I remember from last year. After I finished giving my order, the owner told me I had ordered too much food and offered to half the servings for me. Tried the octopus salad - light and fresh, with corn, fresh olive oil and lemon. Had the gnocci with gorgonzola, fresh grilled fish, zuchinni and potatoes and the house wine - all satisfying and delicious. The special dish for the day is only offered for dinner. Some mellow jazz in the background - I have to stay here next year for a few days.

Macondo Hvar Grad With every day being blue cloudless sky it was no surprise tat Macondo was thronged the night I went. Started with a anchovy and seafood pate sampler (40 kn), followed by frutti de mare risotto (80 kn) and then lobster buzara style (250 kn). The risotto was full of plump mussels and clams - the lobster well grilled. Leaving late after a glass of homemade prosec Macondo was still hopping - be sure to make reservations. Golden Shell Petra Hektorovica 8 I started with dumplings lasagana (70 kn) - light gnocci in a walnut sauce subtlety flavored with dried herbs, really a revelation of creamy flavors. Rabbit in Hvar sauce with olives (100 kn), a fresh salad with goat cheese, (50 kn) - I could eat one of these every day- and 1/2 L of the house red (40 kn) - all wonderful. His spin on drunken figs was a nice finish to a wonderful meal - macerated figs and fresh berries. Ivo remembered me from my last visit - next time I'll leave the decisions to him. Knoba Dvor Dubokovic Pitve 021.761.757 Try to arrive an hour before sunset and retreat to the upstairs terrace for some wine and prust. The view looking out over the vineyards, Jelsa and the mountains of Bol in the distance as the day slowly shifts to night is beguiling. For my first dinner I tried their salted sardines (5 kn a piece) - they were deep, meaty, almost smoky, a little crunchy from the salt. For my entree I had a whole grilled fish - the flesh scented with the smoke from the grill - so good. I noticed the owner was preparing lamb under the bell for other customers that evening. I made a reservations for another night to come back and try it. The lamb dish is cooked with onions, garlic and carrots under a metal bell with embers scattered on - the long cooking process caramelizes the onions and carrots, making the lamb tender and falling off the bone. The owners can even help you locate a room to rent in Pitve

Hvar Kogo St. Stephan square This place and Alviz (located near the bus station, behind St. Stephan) were recommended as the best places for pizza in Hvar. This was my this first time for trying Croatian pizza (35 kn) - not bad - fluffy crust, a sprinkling of dried herbs - a pleasant lunch. And the location on the square can't be beat. Menego Hvar Grad http://www.menego.hr/ Dinko is still serving great food - the slovenia sausage was spicy, the marinated anchovies were prepared differently this time and bit more subtle in flavor but very meaty, the goat cheese and honey was a nice finish. My waiter also told me the order in which to eat the dishes - sausage, fish then cheese. The local goat cheese isn't firm nor tart like chevere - it had a more cottage cheese like consistency But what was truly remarkable was the house white - I have never tasted a wine that reminded me of fresh bread - it was really wonderful ( I know this sound a bit odd). His wife's family owns a vineyard on St. Klement. For dessert I had the drunken figs again and some of Dinko's homemade liquors.

Trata Jerolima Viduliæa 5 098 532 057 Located behind the Forum, "this konoba is set in the most stunning of sheltered gardens with the foundations of a 2nd century Roman temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva as its centerpiece". Trata is a large fishing net. I ordered the octopus salad which had potatoes mixed into it, which was a nice contrast to the firm octopus (40 kn) and Dalmatian ham. For my main dish, I ordered the trata stew - which consisted of fish, scampi, shrimps and potatoes cooked in a tomato paprika broth. It was very well seasoned and flavorful but the numerous bones were a bit problematic. The garden is so pleasant I came back the next afternoon for some more ham and house wine. The owner comped me dessert - Anatasia's dream - fresh yogurt and berries, thicken with a bit of gelatin - tart and juicy - a real treat. Roko Put Dikla 74 023.331.000 This restaurant was vote one of Croatia's top 100 restaurants last year - they specialize in seafood, their menu has very little meat - you'll need to take a cab to get there. In the center of the restaurant is a huge tank containing lobsters. I decided to indulge and order a whole lobster, grilled - and at 400 kn for 1 KG, it was a definite indulgence. I also order some razor clams (80n kn) as a primi - which were served in a garlic herbed sauce. The lobster arrived split in half and grilled, along with an aoili type sauce. The smoke from the grill infused the lobster meat with a wonderful aroma. The flavor was pleasant - maybe a bit dry - and only cost 260 kn. For wine I had a liter of the house white (50 kn). Roko is very popular with the locals and gets crowded in the evening. Restaurant Zadar Vl. Stanko Miletic 023.212.182 This is the only restaurant I found with outside seating, located on the Riva Nova, where you can catch the sun setting over the Zadar archipelago. I ordered a few appetizers - frutti de mare salad which had mussels, lobster, shrimp, tomatoes, garlic, lemon, olives - very good. Girice - small fish that were breaded and fried - I love these when their hot, a squeeze of lemon, pop 'em into your mouth whole - the only problem, the serving was huge so I was only able to get through half before they were cold. And some Dalmatian ham again. Watching the sun set, the ferries and boast going by, people walking along the Riva Nova - this is a beautiful setting. I watch the colors of the sky shift from pinks and oranges to violet to deep blue while also reflected in the water.

Was in Croatia at the beginning of September. Stayed in Zadar for 5 nights and Hvar for 6 nights. Zadar is a true crossroads - a mix of Croatian, Italian, Hapsburg and modern architecture - a real city. Hvar was again a wonderful retreat. Every day was cloudless blue sky. I'llposta brief trip report after the restaurants. Zadar Fosa Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2 023.314.421 Located just outside the Land Gate, with a huge terrace that over looks a small harbor. I ordered some Dalmatian ham (49 kn), Pag cheese (38 kn) and house white (1L, 27 kn) while looking over the menu. Their ham was probably the best I had during my whole trip - it was smoky, silky on the tongue - the right balance of fat and meat, thinly sliced. I decided to try the marinated anchovies (35 kn) and the frutti de mare risotto (55 kn). The marinated anchovies were presented very simply - a drizzle of olive oil. Pleasant and fresh. The risotto was great - the mussels, scampi and clams, the toothy rice. Kornat Liburnska obala 6, Zadar 023.254.501 In Your pocket ( http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/zadar/en/ ) state: "...looking really good on its Riva setting, with a delightful, refined interior. A classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities, a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Although the menu is basically inclined to Dalmatian and inland Croatian cuisine, the chef is quite inventive..." After being seated the waiter brought a little amuse - a dish with fish pate and a couple of fresh anchovies. I started with tuna carpaccio ( 65 kn) - a substantial plate of thinly sliced tuna carpaccio on rocket greens , sprinkled with huge, fat juicy capers. This dish was wonderful - it wasn't until the end that I tried it with a drizzle of olive oil. Next I tried the gnocci with Dalmatian ham and rocket (30 kn) - a creamy light sauce, fluffy light gnocci, strips of Dalmatian ham and wilted rocket - very nice. For my main dish I tried the fish fillet with scampi sauce (100 kn) - which was fine. The waiter recommended a white - Debit, Bibich (120 kn) - which was pleasant and complimented the meal. I enjoyed my meal here so much I came back for dinner the next night. Started with a glass of Travarica, Croatian grappa, (10 kn) then tried their Dalmatian ham (45 kn) - which was chewier, thicker, not smoked. Gnocci with gorgonzola and pine nuts (40 kn), was so good I almost licked the plate. Lamb in a rosemary + red wine sauce (65 kn) was tender and properly cooked. For wine I had a Babic, Vinopiod (170 kn) - a deep red and a nice match to the ham, gnocci and lamb. Also, the restaurant has a very stylish modern ambience.

I have dinner reservations for La Fornace Barbablu - taking my friend there to celebrate his 40th. A couple other restaurants I'm considering: Da o Vittorio, Recco http://www.daovittorio.it/ Manuelina, Recco Ca'Peo http://www.capeo.it/index02.swf Baldin based on numerous reviews I've read I'm also planning to visit some modest places - will also be going to Albenga and Final Ligure Will definitely be going to Fiammenghilla Fieschi in Sestri Levante Plus a couple other places - once again thanks for all the suggestions. here's an interesting web page listing Liguria restaurants - it's in iitalian however but has addresses, phone numbers, etc.. http://www.veronelli.com/VERONELLI_DB/guid...asp?reg=Liguria

I happen to like B movies and a touch of seediness. Thanks for all the suggestions. Here's a great website I found that focuses on the Riviera de Levante area: http://www.apttigullio.liguria.it/

Robert I'm hoping to visit San Remo, Savona, Noli and Dolceacqua, which are west of Genoa. One book I've found to be very informative is The Heritage Guide to the Italian Riviera.

Going to the Liguria coastline at the beginning of June. Staying in Setri Levante. Will be hopping the train and visiting numerous towns and villages. Any restaurant suggestions, including in Genoa? Thanks.

Here are a couple web sites related to Huatulco: http://www.tomzap.com/index.html http://www.huatulco.com.mx/aguaazul/ http://mexicoboutiquehotels.com/index.html Some unrelated food afterthoughts: I'm still unsure about resorts and resort destinations. The one thing I really liked about Huatulco was it's remoteness - I felt so far away from my life, NYC - and that was one of the reasons for going to Huatulco. Crucecita and Santa Cruz are concrete block constructed towns - no charm and way too many stores selling crappy tourist junk. Also you need to take a taxi to get anywhere - mind you, taxis are pretty cheap but there is something about pedestrian traffic that I enjoy very much. As for the resort, somehow being so insulated from the "real world" didn't coax me to fully relax. There were moments I didn't feel like I was in Mexico - very strange. The hotel grounds are beautifully lush - great beach - good to excellent food - one of the most beautiful pools I've ever seen - personable staff but still something didn't feel right. Maybe if I had been with friends. The Quinta felt very intimate, only 28 rooms - while the Camino Real has about 120 rooms, which all have sea views. The one negative I have regarding the Camino Real is the room felt a bit institutional - tropical print bedspread and curtains, mixed matched furniture - great bathroom though. Also, the rooms don't have rugs. I was awoken every morning at 6 am by the person in the room next door, stomping back and forth to the bathroom. I wish I had rented a scooter and explore the coastline - that may have alleviated my feeling so insulated. I'm glad I didn't stay in Crucecita - it's too far away from the beach. And I had no interest in staying at any of the all-inclusive beach hotels. I will say though, sitting underneath that palapa was really enjoyable and relaxing. I would like to visit the state of Oaxaca in September as the rainy season is winding down and everything is green and lush. I really liked the verdant Michoacan countryside - which is supposedly awash in flowers in September, add to that the Mariachi festival in Guadalajara in September - hmm.... I found out there are hot spring spas in Michoacan, which might be nice to visit next winter. And of course there's Patzcuaro - so much to see... If I could do it over again, I might actually do it in reverse - Huatulco first, then Morelia. I was really taken with Morelia - it surpassed my expectations ten fold - a real delight. Anyway, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Dona Celia Bahia de Santa Cruz Had dinner here my last night - along the water's edge, beneath a starry sky - a moist evening breeze. Started with a shrimp and octopus cocktail, once again served in a large parfait glass, then had lobster a la Dona - which was nicely seasoned but not extraordinary. Misc I spent one entire day sitting under a palapa on the Camino Real's private beach. Ordered a couple bottles of X-A Domeq white throughout the day and just kicked back. What made this day so enjoyable was how ensconced I felt underneath the palapa. Sand had been heavily deposited at the base so one had to stoop to get under this palapa - thus I was always in shade - the Pacific a stone's throw away, the occasional bird walking by, a gentle constant breeze, the sun sparkling off the water, the ousnd of the surf. I was surprised to find the price of lobster at some beach side restaurants to be around 600.00. At the Camino Real, a small lobster was 280.00 - it was beautifully grilled , split in half - a nice afternoon snack. Also, a local Oaxacan was purveying freshly caught oysters - 15 for 200.00 - with a squeeze of lime, some homemade sauce - very nice.

Ve-El-Mar Santa Cruz After spending 2 days in the resort, I wanted a dose of reality and went to Santa Cruz, which is where the cruise ships dock. Maybe it was because the tables are literally at the water's edge but something about the setting made this a real sweet spot for me. Started with a large mixed seafood cocktail (90.00) - a 1950's soda fountain glass filled to rim with various seafood in a slightly sweet spicy sauce. Ordered a whole pescado, grilled (100.00) - which was moist and pleasing. To drink - mezcal on the rocks (40.00-50.00?) The setting was perfect - a constant breeze, the occasional vendor selling either hats or coffee - it just felt more authentic/real compared to the resort (more about that issue later). At dusk I walked around Santa Cruz - not really much to look at but, I think, better than La Crucecita. I did watch a procession of locals going to church, singing and carrying banners - their plaintive voices rising and falling. Sabor de Oaxaca La Crucecita Maybe it was because I was sitting on the beach all day and had a few mezcals - but I can't really remember much about this meal. I do recall having 2 mezcals, a seafood cocktail and a stuffed chili (80.00) of some sort, which was flavorful - the bill came to 220.00. The menu does featured many Oaxacan dishes besides fish. Alebreges Del Mar Bahia El Maguey This was my most expensive meal while in Huatulco - I must admit though I had 5 mezcals (60.00) throughout the day. All the restaurants line the beach and have palapas, lounge chairs, etc. My belongings were safe while I swam. I started with a small mixed seafood ceviche (100.00) - very simple, clean distinct flavors. I decide to try the Hawoi(?) pineapple - a pineapple stuffed with jumbo shrimp wrapped in bacon, roasted slices of poblano and pineapple, drizzled with a cream sauce and a sprinkle of fresh corn and cilantro (250.00). This was a very rich dish but fell a bit flat for me. Maguey is powdery tan sandy beach - a bit make shift and rough around the edges (which I like) and seems to be a popular local place for family outings. The water is clear green and calm, great for swimming.

Bel-La-Grilli, Camino Real Zaashila Tangolunda Bay http://www.caminoreal.com/ This is where the breakfast was served, overlooking the beach. I usually ordered freshly made huitlacoche, chapulines, nopales and calabaza quesadillas for breakfast with a side of frijoles and assorted fruits with lots of freshly squeezed lime. And also hot chocolate. The buffet also offered other Mexican/Oaxacan specialties and the usual American breakfast standards. It was included with my room. Las Cupulas, Quinta Real http://www.quintareal.com/english/huatindex.htm The Quinta is one of two non-inclusive's on Tangolunda Bay. It is an intimate hotel comprising 28 rooms, lushly landscaped, impeccable design details and a perfect view of the bay. For dinner I started with a seabass and octopus ceviche with cactus salad in a soya and habenero vinaigrette (105.00). Then had chilies stuffed with cheese and grasshoppers on a red and green sauce (60.00). For my main dish, mahi mahi with a lime and fresh vanilla sauce (150.00). For dessert, crisp apple and walnut tamalito with guanbaya sherbert (55.00). All the dishes were well prepared - the only quibble, I wish the chilies hadn't been breaded. To drink, I had a couple mezcals and a glass of a Mexican white, Fume - which I found a bit thin and weak. I would also recommend coming here for afternoon drinks.

Huatulco: Club de Playa, Camino Real Zaashila Tangolunda Bay http://www.caminoreal.com/ After checking in, walking around the property (which is beautifully landscaped and situated), I decided to have lunch - this restaurant is located at the far end of the beach, which gives a wide expansive view of the bay, and has an infinity pool for when you you feel like cooling off. The menu has some Mexican seafood dishes but caters to more standard American dishes (hamburger, etc). I asked whether I could order items from the room menu - which featured more Oaxacan dishes - and they accommodated me. I tried one of the ceviches (75.00), which was satisfactory - needed more lime, which I added. Also had quesadillas de calabaza (45.00) and oaxqueno tamales (45.00?) - the quesadillas had generous amount of that wonderful white, stringy Oaxaca cheese. With a dab of guacamole or salsa, a gentle warm breeze, the sun glinting off the water and a mezcal (46.00) or two (or three) - I settled in for the afternoon, getting a little bit of sun (which was very strong), taking a dip every now and then and just trying to slow down. Chez Binni, Camino Real Zaashila Tangolunda Bay http://www.caminoreal.com/ The setting for this restaurant is impressive - you sit under massive ocher barrel vaults that open towards the Pacific, swaying palm trees and bougainvillea fill in the setting. Service was competent - a solo guitar player in the bar next door. Being that Huatulco is a resort town - prices everywhere were very similar. Definitely a nice setting. For dinner I started with lobster quesadilla with pineapple pico de gallo (90.00) - I liked the pineapple pico de gallo, could have used a bit more lobster though. For my entree, red snapper marinated in white wine and coriander (I think) with roasted banana on a banana and mango sauce (170.00) - the roasted banana added an interesting note to the fish. Dessert: crepes with Oaxacan chocolate and bananas. I had a bottle of Blanc de Banes X-A Domeq (150.00). All the dishes were well prepared and reflected an assured touch.

a couple other things: weather: weather.com and weatherunderground.com had predicted rain/scattered rain for the three days I was to be in Morelia - let's not over look the previous 30 days had been partly sunny to sunny, and the following 5 days after I left Morelia were to be partly sunny to sunny. Both web sites were completely wrong (yet when I went to Istanbul, were fairly accurate) - every day was perfect, during the day a high of about 75, blue skies with an occasional clouds, no rain - at night, it got chilly, lower 50s, upper 40s. one funny observation: on the butterfly excursion, Luis, our guide mentioned casually, that a margarita is considered a female drink in Mexico (I could sense the other two men in the car tense up also). One them asked rather nonchalantly, "did you say that only women drink margaritas?" "Si, men do not." I was somewhat conflicted for the rest of my trip because I really like a well prepared margarita. Yet when I ordered a tequila, or when in Huatulco mezcal, I invariably got a quick approving nod from the waiter. In Huatulco, ordering mezcal got me a "hmm", a raised eyebrow and a slight grin. Of course after my 5th mezcal the waiter wasn't sure what to think of me.

Morelia has been called the "aristocrat of colonial cities" and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Spanish baroque architecture is done in pink volcanic stone. The Cathedral is gorgeous - the spires are over 200 feet tall. The tourist center is located in the Biblioteca Publica - they have a free detailed walking tour map of the historic center. The city is incredibly clean and somewhat stately and reserved. (Very opposite to the festive tone of Oaxaca.) The city is a real pleasure to stroll around - I loved walking through the numerous courtyards beneath a deep blue sky. There are numerous museums and theaters. The one must see is Templo de San Diego. The outside of the church is very plain and in no way hints at the interior - the inside is a riot of color and decoration. Every square inch is colored and adorned - like an overly decorated cake - very unique and impressive. Here are a few web sites i found helpful: http://visitmorelia.com/english/ index.asp Lots of information about Morelia - hotels, restaurants, festivals, museums, theater, etc. http://michoacan-travel.com/fipr otur/eng_principal.htm Lots of information regarding Michoacan. http://www.visitmexico.com/home/ click on destinations, then Morelia http://www.mexweb.com/colonial.htm If you have questions regarding my trip to Morelia - feel free to ask. I'll be posting about Huatulco later this week.

Dulces Vallisoletanos de Antano Av. Madero Oriente 440, Centro 01-443-312-04-77 This confectionary store is located near Templo de las Monjas. They make fruit pastes, jellies and liquors in a variety of flavors. Marzipan like candies painted like delicate jewels are available as are cajeta filled wafer cookies and numerous flavors of ice creams. I found this website very helpful and informative: http://www.cdctesoros.com/ List of boutique hotels and upscale restaurants in and around Morelia. Here are a few restaurants I had considered for my visit to Morelia. Note that many non-hotel restaurants close by 6 pm on Sundays. Fonda Las Mercedes Leon Guzman 47 (52 4) 312-6113 Extensive selection of carefully prepared Mexican and international dishes. San Miguelito Chopin 45 (52 4) 324-4411 Creative Mexican dishes such as filete tzitziqui, filet of beef served in a sauce of squash flowers and corn. Virrey de Mendoza Av. Madero Pte. 310 (52 4) 312-0633 Mexican and international specialties including Tarascan soup, corundas, and white fish from Lake Pátzcuaro. Casa de la Calzada Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel, 344 (443) 313 53 19