marktynernyc

Mainly did tapas for lunchand afteroon snacks: Enrique Becerra c / Gamazo 2 It was still early so the tapas bar was fairly empty. Started with shrimp and avocado salad with a manzanilla then foie gras on toasted points with plum with an amontillado. I think the bill came to about 8E. Berrocal c/ Moratin 15 Had read that this is where to get your fill of wild game. Unfortunately they had a modified menu for Holy Week and were only serving raciones. I tried slices aburgien with a solmorejo sprinkled with bits of ham and garlic - not bad. Casablanca c/ Zaragoza 50 Near plaza nueva. This was the first real packed tapas bar - I tried the medium mashed patatas that was drizzled with really fresh olive oil and a beef dish - tender chunks of beef served on roasted potatoes - the juices flavoring the potatoes, the meat so tender. The crowd was lively and fun - met a man from Havana, Cuba. There is a restaurant in the back, I believe. Albariza c/ Betis 6 Located along the river in Triana. Was reviewed in NYT. They were only serving raciones for Holy Week. I had a plate of various pork products (15.00E) and marinated bacalo in a wonderful saffron broth (12.00E), along with some of those big, meaty, bruised colored olives. All very good but the best was the palo cortado (5.00E). It was so delicious, satisfying, revelatory I had 2 copitas. Bar Espana at Egana-Oriza c/ San Fernando, 41 Located near the Plaza de Espana - outside seating available. Stopped off for some croquetas caseras de jamon (2.70E) and ensalada de mariscos (4.10) - but the real treat was the cream sherry I had - chilled, slightly sweet, but still light on the palate. La Giganta c/Alhondiga, 6 - near Plaza de los Terceros Had read they are known for their sauces. There is outside seating next to Iglesia Santa Catalina. Met a woman from Helsinki while nibbling and imbibing. Tried pringa casera (1.75E) and lomo cerdo salsa (1.75E), washed down with a couple manzanillas (1.40E each). El Rinconcillo c/ Gerona 40 - near Plaza de los Terceros - next to Plaza de Ponce de Leon. They really do write your bill on the bar (try that in NYC). I tried a couple chorizos, thickly sliced , some cheese and a few amontillados - I think the bill came to about 6E. Met a group from Marseille- fun place. El Colmado Plaza Ponce de Leon Had read they are known for their wine and cheese. There is 15% service charge for sitting outside. I had a small dish of ham and a couple finos - would like to come back and try their various cheeses and wines. Tapas Robles c/ Alvares Quintero, 58 just around the corner from Casa Robles I popped in for just a quick pick me up of boquerones (1.95E), marinated mussels (1.95) and couple manzanillas (1.65 E each) before heading off to Plaza Nueva to see a pasos. I did notice a couple having a sampler plate of various tapas. Bar Estrella c/ Estrella 3 Santa Cruz district "...unusual tapas, not frequented by tourist trade, popular with locals..." They were only serving raciones at the sit down tables and the stand up table outside were full. Ordered salmoreo con huevo duro, melva y jambon (racione - 7.85E) and the croquetas de cabrales con cabello de angel (racione - 9.00E). The salmorejo was fine - the croquetas dabbed with a bit of cabello de angel were dense and chewey. I would have prefered a tapas serving instead of 10 croquetas. Menu looked very interesting.

Egana Oriza San Fernando, 41 http://www.restauranteoriza.com/ I knew the evening was going to be good as I waited in Bar Espana, salivating over the gorgeous tapas at the bar ( I made a mental note to stop off at bar espana for lunch). After being seated and ordering an amontillado, nibbles were brought to the table: meaty, bruised colored olives, big fat capers, and garlic cloves, that were so mild I wasn't sure they were garlic. The waiter assured me they were - he said they're marinated in a "special water" which makes them mild tasting - I couldn't believe I was eating whole garlic cloves. Started with anjo blanco c/uvas, jamon, y melon (13.40E) - a nicely chilled, very smooth but with a fine grain soup was then poured. over small mounds of ham, grapes and melon, which were artisically arranged in a white bowl. The waiter suggested pickled partridge salad (ensalada de perdiz escabehada, 13.22E) being that I was having seafood food for my main. Room temperature partridge served with a warmed green salad. For my main, a chef's speciality, spider crab donostiarra (25.39E) - served in it's crab shell - lot's of shredded crab meat in a tomato broth of some sort For dessert - another chef's recommendation - creme de naranja con oliva virge (8.10E) - a orange and tomato torte with a drizzle of olive oil - the flavors played off each other so well - for me, a very unique combination. I lingered after dessert - a glass of Pedro Ximenez Noe (8.41E), a glass of Molino Real Moscatel (9.15E) , un cafe (2.10E). The whole evening worked on so many levels for me - the food was not only very good but beautifully presented - the room, which is set beneath green steel arches and a tufted white fabric ceiling, is evenly lit, tables nicely spaced - there's an air of enjoyment but private. The staff was confindent and made me, a solo diner, feel totally at ease - it was a wonderful evening.

Salvador Rojo, Calle San Fernando, 23 across from the Hotel Alfonso I had read some wonderful reviews about Salvador Rojo and decided to have lunch here - you need reservations for the patio, but not for the dining room (unsure about dinner). This was a very contemporary meal with Andalusian touches / influences - light, clean, restrained. Sorry for not taking more notes on each dish - maybe someone can help with the translations - thanks. El Menu Degustacion (41.50E) Las Tapas Terrina de berenjenas y boqueron curado en vinagre. Pastel de cverduras gratinado al ali-oli de aceitunas negras. Patata tibia, aciete de oliva, huevo de Codorniz escalfado y lamina de jamon de pato. Anchoa y pimiento asado. Foie y manzana verde caramelizada en milhojas, pequena ensalada con vinagre de Modena y fructos secos, mermelada de cebolla y ciruela al P.X. 4 small napoleons of foie and apples. surrounded by greens, a vinagrete and a very mild orange marmalada. The focus was the foie - nothing upstage it - the orange marmalde was so subtle but present - this was great dish. Langostino, salteado con arroz frito en aceite de Soja A slightly Thai influence dish - clean, pleasant - the langostino was firm to the bite Lomo de Merluza de pincho, a la sarten con verduras estofadas y salsa de piquillos Medallon de solomillo de Buey, con sus verduras y trufas en jougo de asado Seleccion de quesos artsanos, mebrillo, jalea de naranja amarga y pasas en compota The waiter suggested a wonderful oloroso to accompany these cheeses - with the various sauces, nuts and raisins sprinkled on the dish Sorbete liquido de limon al vodka Bavarios de vainilla y chocolate, con helado de nata y crujiente de chocolate For some reason I thought the cheese course was the last dish - this was a nice sweet, chocolatey, with some crunch, end to a very good meal. Add to the bill a half bottle of red, a bottle of water, cafe, amontillado - total came to 74.74E.

Casa Robles http://www.casa-robles.com/rr-e/index.htm calle Conteros, 2 near the Catedral After being seated, I ordered an amontillado and perused the menu. Realized I had not tried salmorejo (10.22E) yet. and decided to start with that. A beautiful deep red soup sprinkled with bits of jamon, hard boiled egg, minced garlic and a generous drizzle of olive oil. It was wonderfully chilled (which was nice, because the room was a tad warm) - still not exactly sure how it differs from gazpacho - it tasted thicker, more robust than gazpacho. Googling tells me that salmorejo does not contain cucumber or peppers, while gazpacho doesn't have the addition of ham and egg. This dish was a delight to savor and dwaddle over - the texture, the temperature, the bits of ham and egg, the bite of garlic, the silky smoothness of the olive oil. The next dish was seared foie gras with pedro ximinez and orange marmalade (17.95E). The liver, while properly seared, was a but stringy and the orange marmalade completely overpowered and obliterated the taste of the foie. I had to be very judicious when dabbing the orange marmalade. The one thing that made this dish interesting was a roasted tomato on this dish - which when paired with the orange marmalade made a very intriguing combination (surprisingly these flavors appeared in a dessert at another restaurant ). No sooner had I finished this dish then - bam - duck with fig (15.65) arrived. It was fine - but I really wish they had given me a chance to catch my breath. ( I noticed through my whole trip that dishes come out in fairly quickly secession). Overall - the meal felt lack luster, somewhat rushed - except for the salmorejo. It was the middle of Holy Week, downstairs was packed, people being turned away. I'd like to come back and try this restaurant during an off period. (One interesting note: the thursday before Good Friday - numerous Sevillian women about the city were dressed in black dresses, mantillas and shrouds. In front of Casa Robles was a long table - on one side, women in black, on the other men in dark blue suits, I didn't want to use the flash because they were eating - please excuse the slight fuzziness)

Thanks for the clarification - my Spanish is not very good and I made a linguistic guess based on what I wrote - the cheese was very mild. I'll be posting more today.

Sevilla: Caught a noonish train to Sevilla - dropped my bags off at the B&B I was staying at in the Santa Cruz district and headed to Triana for lunch - this was the last day that Poncio was going to be open for Holy Week. Poncio http://www.ponciorestaurantes.com/ http://www.andalunet.com/poncio/ calle Victoria, 8 Triana, just off Pages del Corro I did the menu de gustacion (43E): Crema de guisantes con jamon y picatostes A cream soup of baby green vegetable - a simple starter, warm, nice body - nestled into the soup was a small mound of jamon Hojaldrito de endiba caramelizada, queso de cabra y manzana This was pastry wrapped around - I believe - cabrales cheese - topped with thinly sliced apples. The pastry was so delicate and dry - it crumbled beautifully as my fork dug in. The cabrales wasn't exceedingly strong - it played up to the apples well. Pure de cauliflower con helado de foi y pollito al pimenton Pureed cauliflower with foie (liver) ice cream on top of shredded chicken - a very intriguing dish - the various textures, the warmth of the puree and the cold of the foie ice cream, the foie ice cream itself - this was a really fun dish. Bacaloa confitido con ajo colorado y espanan de piquillo A moist - fleshy white piece of bacaloa - the piquillo adding a nice touch of pointed heat. Presa de paletilla al horno con moscatel, cremoso de pimento frito y jamon iberico Meat from the shoulder or back of the pig, with moscatel grapes (figs possibly) with a cream sauce. NIce counter point to the preceding fish dish. Queso en tres texturas con coulis de membrillo This was a cheese ice cream dish - but the interesting aspect was a thin wafer like piece of dried cheese - I wish I could explain this better better - stuck on the top. (Similar in principle to very thin, air dried-dehydrated, zucchini slices). Sorta caliente de chocolate picante con frambuesas y pan frito. A warm chocolate soup loaded with fresh strawberries - not too hot, I could cup the small bowl in my hands and sip directly from the bowl. The waiter allowed me to pour from a freshly opened bottle of rioja at my leisure and charged for just 2 glasses - 4.92E - I think I had 3. Very generous. The room is rather understated and private - people at other tables talked rather quietly but everyone seemed very relaxed. The total came to 52.86E - incredible - I understand why people here have raved about this place - thanks for the recommendation.

Lustau calle Arcos, 53 http://www.emilio-lustau.com/default.asp I had arranged a tour via email and this bodega was also only a few blocks away from my hotel. I was about 15 minutes early - sure enough at exactly 10 am a single door opened, I step in to a courtyard and met Federico. He told a bit of history about the bodega. It was originally owned by Harvey's - who sold the buildings to Lustau, who then proceeded to move - I want to say 15,000 barrels - to their newly restored bodegas on Arcos. As we walked around the bodega - we talked about the special mats that are hung on the windows that allow the air through but not sunlight, the clay and it's role in regulating the humidity which in turns affects the growth of the flor, the way the barrels are stacked to a certain height in relation to humidity and temperature - it all came together for me - what a wonderful history and amazing product. The bodegas are beautifully restored - it felt at times like I was walking in a small cathedral. Afterwards, another tasting - 11 types of sherries, 1 brandy and a finger tasting of their vinegars (which had a full, rich, tart bouquet) I really enjoyed being able to smell and taste ( and see) the whole range of their sherries - hopping back and forth, trying to make mental notes for comparison. This time I only bought the Anada 1989, a rich oloroso (my back pack is only so big) - which should be available in the US. These were the only two bodegas I had the chance to tour while in Jerez - there are numerous other bodegas in Jerez and also in Sanlucar and Santa Maria For more information about sherry: http://www.sherry.org/

Sherry Bodegas: Alvaro Domecq calle Alamos, 23 http://www.alvarodomecq.com My hotel recommended and arranged a tour for this bodega, which was only a couple blocks away. If I remember correctly what Sonia, my guide said - Domecq was bought by a multinational a few years ago. The Alvaro Domeqc family then opened a smaller bodega to produce artisinal sherries. Sonia showed me around the bodega - explaining the process of making their sherries, vinegar and brandy. Afterwards, Sonia had also arranged a tasting of their sherries for me along with some cheeses, ham, chorizo, sausage and olives. I tasted their entire range and wound up leaving with six bottles - fino, amontillado, palo cortado, oloroso, cream and pedro ximenez. I have not seen the 1730 line in the U.S. though I have no problems locating Lustau.

Mercado de Abastos, located about midway between the Plaza de Arenal and Plaza de las Augustas. A couple blocks from my hotel is the local market. Carne del torro, chorizo blanco, jamon, snails, fruits, vegetables, seafood, olives, cheeses - it might be easier to list what wasn't here. A delight for the eyes, ears and nose. Nibbles here and there when proffered. I enjoyed meandering through on my way to the Alcazar or one of the sherry bodegas watching the vendors arrange their fruits and vegetable - the fish mongers cleaning and weighing their fish - I've never seen such huge piles of live snails. (if you'd like the pics larger - let me know)

Misc: La Rosa De Oro, calle Consistorio I wanted to try some typical Semana Santa sweets - torrias al vino de jerez (1.40 E) - a fried peice of bread that is then soaked in sweet wine of Jerez and, I think, honey - it was sweet , the outter crunch and inner softness of the bread, nice contrast. But the real treat were the sugar coated bunellos filled with cream flavored with Jerez brandy.

Gallo Azul: http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11123730..._1030_50078.jpg Almacen: http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11123730..._1030_15921.jpg La Abaceria: http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11123730..._1030_60774.jpg Would it be better to post the links to the photos or just mention that I've posted photos in a public album?

Restaurants: Mesa Redonda, calle Manuel de la Quintana, 3 I arrived 5 minutes before my reservation (9 pm) to find a dark restaurant - sure enough 2 minutes later someone arrived, invited me inside, offered me a aperitif and then headed to the kitchen. I'm not sure which is worse, dining alone in a room filled with people or being the only person in the dining room - other people did start filtering in around 9:30, which was nice. Started with lightly crusted jumbo scallops with shad roe(?) - the scallops very frsh and meaty, the roe offering this bass note. My favorite dish: poached eggs wrapped around langostines served on top of crisp, shoe string potatoes (8.00E) - the rich egg yoke, the salty crispness of the potatoes, the firm flesh of the langostines - this dish sang for me. For my main, de-boned ox tail in a Pedro Jimenez sauce with velvety smooth potatoes (12.00E) - the meat so tender. Dessert was some ice cream affair but the highlight was the Pedro Jeminiez they poured for me - it was practically black, and when held to the light only pin pricks of deep ruby red light penetrated the glass. And the dense intense bouquet expanded to huge proportions in my nose. Add couple finos, 1/2 a bottle of wine, water, bread, olives, etc - the total came to 46.92E. El Gaitan, calle Gaitán 3 http://www.restaurantegaitan.com My hotel recommended Gaitan: "...nice restaurant with good traditional food. Specialities: oxtail, cod in garllic, king prawns, stuffed partridge. Popular with the locals...." The meal was average - boquerones stuffed with ham and spinach (9.00E) were unfortunately lightly breaded and fried which muddled the flavors. The artichoke cream soup (6.00E) was good but I had to remind them about the cabrales sauce that accompanied the veal (15.98E), which was a pleasent combination. I skipped dessert.

speaking of squiggles and such - I'm trying to figure out how to post some photos also - hopefully I'll get it right - the timbal at Azul is quite colorful. I took a sherry bodega tour at Alvaro Domecq (and Lustau) - if I remember correctly Domeecq was bought by a multi-national a while back then Alvaro opened a smaller bodega - but more about that later.

I forgot to add for Azul - marget de pato al pedro ximenez (1.80E) which paired nicely with an amontillado. I like the smallness / intimacy of Jerez. I'll be doing additonal post through out the weekend.

El Gallo Azul, calle Larga s/n. Not only is the location great but the tapas are really good. My favorite - timbal de huevo revello de langostinos (1.80). Other dishes: pimentos del piquillo rellonos de satas (1.80 E), atun al amontillado con crema de patatas montada (1.80). It was great watching locals come in order one tapa, one glass of sherry - quickly eat then depart. It's a great people watching - people passing by - loved the father, with his young daughter sitting on the tapas bar, eating. There is a restaurant upstairs but didn't get a chance to try it. La Abaceria, Plaza Rafael Rivero s/n "...you can sit outside at lunchtime in a pretty square and eat boquerones con pimiento (anchovies with pepper), delicious pates and tostados and sip a decent fino. In the evening it is a lively meeting place for young locals..." I started with some boqueronos en vinagre (1.80 E), queso curado anejo (1.80 E), and lomo de Jerez (2.00 E). The delight and surprise here was the lomo, which was a pork loin on a dense bread, no condiments or sauces - but the bread and meat were dense and moist- no condiments (mayo I had wondered - mea culpa) needed. Other dishes tried: salchichon amorconado (a sausage) and matrimonio (ancho/boqu - cured and fresh anchovies). A couple glasses of fino and amontillado rounded out lunch. El Almacen, calle la Torre, 8 - next door to El Reino de Leon My hotel mentioned that they have "tapas of the more unusual kind, like grilled artichokes with Pedro Ximenez dressing, aubergines in honey and tuna fish mousse. You can't reserve a table..." When I arrived on Sunday this place was open - being jetlagged I didn't connect this place with my list and every day afterward found it closed for lunch and didn't open till 9 pm. Walking home from Gaitan they were opened - so I was able to try their grilled artichoke heart's with pedro jemeniz sauce (4.00E) with a glass of amontillado (1.50E). The slight vinegary/sour taste of the grilled artichoke was a nice counter point to the rich Pedro.

I was in Jerez de la Frontera and Sevilla for Semana Santa (Holy Week) - the orange trees were heavy with fruit, the almond trees were dress in white, botherhoods in various colored robes, saetas being sung late at night - a very active trip this time, very little kicking back and relaxing. Sorry if my choices are a bit mainstream but it was my first visit to Andalucia - but definitely not my last. Here are the highlights: Jerez de la Frontera: Tapa bars: El Reino de Leon, calle la Torre 8 - located behind the Plaza del Arenal, which under is construction, and near Bar Juanito. While the place is a bit rough around the edges the tapas were quite good - the sweetbreads (2.25E) with a sprinkling of salt were especially good, the jamon (2.60E), the octopus salad (2.25E) and a couple glasses of fino sherry. (Note: when in Jerez order Fino, when in Sanlucar order Manzanilla) Bar Juanito, calle Pescaderia Vieja 4 - just off the Plaza Arenal. http://www.bar-juanito.com/home.htm Disappointing - the most expensive tapas (4.80E - I think, still looking for the receipt) while in Jerez and nothing memorable. My hotel mentioned that "...most of the food is precooked, which is fine when they are busy and not so good when they are not."

Patzcuaro is in Michoacan, Mexico about 60 kilometers outside Morelia. I'm giving thought to maybe going back to Prague or Budapest this September instead of Croatia because I'm going to Antalya this July after Spain this March. ( life should always be so difficult )

After numerous delays - Cerny Kohout has finally reopened in Prague proper. Unfortunately I'll have to wait to go - spending New Year's in Patzcuaro and going to Sevilla and Jerez for Semana Santa in March. http://www.cernykohout.cz/ open every day 7.30 a.m. - 11.00 p.m. address: VOJTESSKA 9 PRAHA 1 - NOVE MESTO phone 00420 251 681 191 near the National Theatre, on the bank of river Vltava. Christmas Eve / Old czech Menu Amuse Bouche Baked snails chef’s style with herbal sauce and boiled crayfish Homemade fish soup with Jullienne vegetables and carp milt gnocchi Roasted pheasant breast Old Bohemian Style served with traditional “Kuba” (barley-and-mushroom casserole) and baked apple with sauerkraut and cranberries Fried carp and pikeperch fillets served with Christmas potato salad White chocolate parfait Coffee served with Christmas Petit Fours Apple punch with vanilla and caramel Fresh Fruits French cheeses 1950 K 65 €

what about the food? I am going to Jerez and Sevila for Holy Week - already have a tentative list of restaurants but would like to hear about the food you ate. Please divulge.....

Carrot Top - The cuisine in Croatia is quiet diverse. In Istria (northern Croatia) - there is a strong Italian influence (truffle season just finished). Further inland - there is Serbian and Hungarian influence. Anywhere along the coast is seafood. If you're wondering about the residual effects of the war - which was almost 15 years ago - all the infrastructure is up and working. I find Croatians to be very efficient and savy. By my third trip to Croatia I stopped worrying about being on a tight schedule - push come to shove, if I missed a ferry I could always find a room to stay in for the night - not a big deal (the exception being having to catch a flight) - and even then, there's plenty of internet cafes to reschedule. I will say that the accomodations are not Four Seasons luxury - but I spent so little time inside because Croatia is so beautiful, it really didn't matter. Croatians speak German, Italian and English ( and I've over heard a bit of Hungarian also). A lot of the restaurants serve the same dishes - but quality and source vary. Yes there were moments when I was jonesing for some Thai or good Mexica but somehow fresh seafood, prust and wines was more than enough. Any other questions,, feel free to ask.

rshorens - Dubrovnik is beyond words - when I turned the corner on to Stradun ( the main street in the Old Town) I became giddy with joy - it's unlike anywhere in the world. A must do in Dubrovnik - when walking the walls you may notice outside the walls on the Adriatic seaside a bar - the name of this bar is Buza. You must go - you walk(stoop) through a small opening in the wall, down some twisty concrete stairs and you arrive at a somewhat rag-tag little bar - they only serve wine and beer ( I brought my own prust and figs) - it is a bar with an edge, on the edge - 1950's Dean Martine and Croatian folk music play in the background - the wide expanse of the Adriatic in front of you - a real sweet spot. I really enjoyed dinner at the Rustica Taverna at the Hotel Excelsior (http://www.hotel-excelsior.hr), where I stayed - a picture perfect southern view of the Old Town and really well prepared Dalmation cuisine. Go early - at least an hour before sunset if possible. As for Split - it's a bit rough around the edges - I've only been there for a few hours. A couple I met on Hvar stayed in Split for 2 nights and really enjoyed it. My second "lay over" - I was able to explore a bit more and found numeorus bars, cafes and restaurants down narrow alleys - so let us know what you think of Split. The day of my departure (Sunday) - mass was taking place in a small chapel within Diocletian's Palace. Grape harvest has just finished on Hvar and olive picking is about to commence - I love this time of year (Sept -Oct) - let us know how it is.

DAY 10 Got up early to photograph the morning light - watched back packers trudge through St. Stephen's square to the bus station. After breakfast grabbed my towel and goggles and went for a swim then laid out - near the harbor a five masted sailboat was anchored. Met Frank in Jelsa at noon and picked up my bottle of Croatian olive oil. After saying good bye to Frank - and promising to send him a NYC t-shirt - I headed off to Zavala. I had lunch at Skalinada (www.skalinada-apartmani-hvar.hr) - after ordering my meal the owner told me I had order too much food and offered to halve the portions - and he was right. I spent the afternoon sunning and swimming then went back to to Vina Plenkovic (www.zlatanotok.hr) in Svete Nedjelja to buy some bottles of wine. Back in Hvar I stopped off at the specialty food store and bought some more wine and sampled more cheeses, the owner's son and I discussing the first chain supermarket in Hvar. For dinner I went back to the Golden Shell - Ivo remembered me from last year. The gnocci in walnut sauce was hearty, creamy and nice herbed - the rabbit in Hvar sauce was okay - the salad with goat cheese was fantastic. For dessert - drunken figs. Walking through St. Stephen square I did not want to go back to NYC - getting my customary ice cream for the evening added to the poignancy of the evening. DAY 11 The catamaran departed Hvar at 9 am, which allowed me time to meandered around Split for about an hour and a half before taking the bus to the airport (30 kn). The flight was uneventful - arriving at JFK I couldn't decide between taking the train-to-the plane or a taxi back home - I had 6 bottles of wine and 1 bottle of olive oil in my back pack - would you believe I opted for the train - quicker and more efficient.

DAY 9 While having dinner at Knoba Dvor Dubokovic my waiter and I struck up a conversation about NY and whatelse but Sienfeld. (He loves Seinfeld) Frank invited me over to his mother's for lunch, in Jelsa at noon the following day. We had fish and freshly sauteed potatoes and zuchinni. What I found interesting was that Catholic Croatians observe fish on Friday year round. Lunch was pleasant and a nice change from the restaurant scene - I noticed how efficient Croatian houses are designed - almost like a ship - nothing superfluous. During lunch I mentioned to Frank that I wanted to buy some Croatian olive oil. He told me to come back the next day and he would take me to a local producer. Croatians (like Mexicans) also like instant Nescafe coffee I discovered. The afternoon was spent tooling around on my scooter, exploring small villages, taking dips in secluded coves. For dinner I went back to Knoba Dvor Dubokovic. Sitting under a canopy of grape vines - the sound of crickets - the night so dark I couldn't tell where the horizon lay - the world's problems seemed non existent. For starters, dalmation ham and salad. For entree - lamb under the bell - the caramelized onions and carrots and tender lamb - delicious. For dessert - pancakes with chocolate syrup - which was average. The drive back was a bit nerve racking - I had choosen not to refill the gas tank while near Jelsa - every time I went up a hill the orange gas light came on - going down hill, no light - it's easy going up but harder going up - words have never been so true. Luckily I made it back to Hvar with no problem.

DAY 8 I decide this day I wanted to just relax - no sightseeing, no excursion - just be hypnotized by the waves and the sun. I asked the desk clerk how to get to Dubovica - which is situated on a secluded cove. She said I could take a bus then walk down a rocky dirt trail, that it was easier to go down than to go up. I commented that life was like that and we both shared a good laugh. The bus schedule is posted at the bus station and is easy to understand - the bus fare from Hvar to Dubovica is 9 kn. June 2003, Hvar had a couple fires - one fire burned all the way to the sea, near Dubovica - walking the dirt trail down to Dubovica I noticed charred pine trees and new growth. Dubovica is on a secluded pebbled cove with one restaurant and one house with rooms to rent. Blue cloudless sky - water as smooth as glass - sailboats on the horizon - peace and quiet except for the lapping of waves - this was exactly what I was looking for. I swam, I slept, I swam some more - I noticed that sea urchins were congregated at deeper levels and on large rocks and none were near the pebbled beach area - which was a relief. Around noon I walked over to the restaurant, Lovrincevic, for some wine and ham - admiring the small church next to the restaurant and talking with the owner. After some more sun and swimming I came back for lunch - octopus salad (which transported me back to Huatulco, Mexico), grilled fish and the house white wine - the stillness and quiet of the day intensified the meal. For dessert - a couple glasses of homemade prosec - a deep ruby red, nicely chilled - this was heaven. The owner's daughter who is about 7 years old sells sea shells and is an enchantress with her smile - you will not be able to resist this siren. Hiking back up to catch the bus wasn't too difficult - the fare from Dubovica, 9 kn. For dinner I went back to Macondo. The good weather made for a long wait for a table outside - make reservations. While the food was good, the evening seemed rushed and forced. When I left, the restaurant was still busy. I noticed during the previous 2 years visiting Croatia it was customary to get finger bowl with your meal. This year not one restaurant provided a finger bowl - instead I got those antiseptic, burn your nose hairs, make your eyes squint, towlettes. For dessert - I stopped off at a bar near St. Stephen for a night cap.

DAY 7 Last year when I tried to do the blue & green cave excursion it was canceled because of high winds. This year the winds weren't so bad - we were able to visit the green cave but not the blue cave. Of course, I over heard a couple other days that the winds were to high to visit the blue cave - which makes me wonder if there is a blue cave. Our excursion was changed to Vis, the green cave and Stoncica (150 kn, lunch was not included). It was a smaller boat than the normal excursion boats because of the caves - and thus faster. We first stopped at Vis - the island was at one time under Ventian control and at another, a military base for Tito. Vis was a delight - I noticed lots of decorative architectural details that were unique to Vis. During the excursion a Canadian woman struck up a conversation - asking "do they ever have a cloudy day here in Croatia?" - I'll admit I chuckled at her lament (mea culpa). We then headed towards the green cave - the boat entered a long tunnel and I wondered if this was a man-made passage to the green cave - no, it was a garage for one of Tito's submarines. We finally arrived at the green cave - which is striking however as for it being the green cave (like the Blue Cave in Capri) - a single blob of dancing light in the water from a man-made hole in the ceiling of the cave was a bit of a let down. However the other tourists jockeying for position to take photos of the dancing green blob was rather humorous. After the green cave we headed to Stoncica - a sandy cove ( a rarity in Croatia) for the afternoon. The restaurant, Knoba Stoncica, is a bit make shift - palm fronds and such - the food however was top notch. The savur marinana, cooked fish that was marinated in olive oil and herbs was delicious. The marinated sardines arrived under a blanket of onions and capers drizzled with olive oil - delicious. One can order 1st class or 2nd class fish in Croatia - the only discernible difference is price - both class are good, 1st class being a bit firmer in texture. I had 2nd class fish and potatoes that were lightly mashed, still somewhat chunky and sprinkled with herbs. Afterwards I found a spot to lay out and swim for while. The owner of the restaurant can arrange for accommodations on the cove. The ride back was peaceful - everyone seemed slightly unconscious - the bright sun, the smell of the sea, the waves, the food and wine. We got back to Hvar around 6:30 pm - I fell asleep till 11pm. Still full from lunch I opted for some ice cream and sat in the square hovering in that in between state of consciousness.