david goodfellow

I remember as a young lad walking up Park Lane gazing up at the famous name hotels and in particular perusing the restaurant menus in glass and gold cases outside The Dorchester, Grosvenor House, Hilton, et al. Even though I was ambitious, never in my wildest dreams did I imagine that I would through hard work and good fortune be able to eat the food of Anton Mossiman(Dorchester) and Nico Ladenis.(Grosvenor House) The Hilton is considered by many to be a blot on the landscape. Our Queen in particular will never step inside because she objected to its build because it overlooks Buckingham Palace. The lift glides up to the twenty eighth floor in an instant to a small multi mirrored lobby which houses a cloakroom and ladies and gents toilets. We freshen up but I find that the gents is a bit of a let down, locked in a time warp perhaps from its build date circa 1965? The original Twyfords urinals are out of kilter with the Duravit basins its very dull and unloved. The dining room itself is quite a revelation, to the left of it is an impressive bar for pre and after dinner drinks. Most of the seating is good especially the windows seats of course. A raised area in the middle of the room also looks comfortable. A brigade of young mainly French staff parole the tables and as may be expected the service is exemplary. The meet and greet staff are particularly welcoming,its like entering your favorite club. Three menus are on offer this lunchtime, gourmand, prestige, table d hote. We are off tasting menus so looked at the prestige and only the Venison and perhaps the Turbot appeal, we had Pigeon the day before and nothing else jumped out. This is what we had, Mosaic of Cornfed Chicken, foie gras, Bayonne ham & confit celeriac, toasted pain de campagne. Brandade& tartare of Cornish mackerel, beetroot carpaccio, braised leeks & Moutarde de Meaux. Baked fillet of Cod, potato crust, buttered cockles & watercress sauce. Braised Pork cheeks, pommes puree, braised turnips, cinnamon & clove scented jus. Caramel poached baby Pear, milk puree & peanut ice cream. Selection of seasonal cheese. Petit fours. The terrine was tasty enough, but lacked visual appeal, my Mackerel dish was more easy on the eye but the fish content was muted. Bread was white and an olive (green and black) sourdough served with a fridge cold portion of butter We had the Cod as an intermediate course at an extra charge which was thoughtfully plated for each of us. Pretty looking dish this, flaky chunks of Cod sat on a bed of cabbage and vivid green watercress sauce, a small spike of cockles teased the taste buds and a sliver of crispy Cod skin topped the lot. We both had the Pork cheeks, three of the same interspersed by the turnips, all propped up by the pommes. The jus was a thick tasty sauce decorated with some distracting chervil and the dish topped with some unannounced trompette de mort (mushroom) The dessert was very pleasant indeed with some crunch in there and cubes of pear and sweet wine jelly making an appearance. My cheese was a generous serving of, goats, cantal, camembert, roqufort plated with a few grapes, walnuts some more jelly (apricot) some micro herbs and a choice of crackers. We don't normally take coffee but were served the petit fours, salted caramel, passion fruit, madagascan. A jar full of extremely tasty marshmallows were also offered which we found hard to resist. Considering the location, which is truly stunning, its hard to see where a profit margin is coming from especially as the lunch menu is a measly £25, I can only conclude the drink is where the margin is as our £33 bottle of wine would not be what we would normally spend as truth be told we are not serious drinkers. When I booked the table I was again offered two spots 12.15 and 2.15 both of which I refused and stamped my feet until I had a phone call later in the day to accept a booking for 1 o clock. On arrival the restaurant was about one third full, however by 2.30 the place was virtually full, I think I understand the good business sense in trying to have two sittings so to speak but can't helpbut think a number of customers would be deterred Having said that this is the sort of place that is easy to be smitten by once you savour what is on offer. Considering the low entry fee to what can only be described as a true destintion restaurant its clear that you do not need to be rich or famous to look down on the minions below

Went for lunch yesterday, will write it up later if I get the chance.

When he held two Michelin stars at L'Ortolan he was magic, he had fantastic guys working for him. We had our best ever meal there We were regulars, swapping between Le Manoir and L'Ortolan and Christine his then wife always made a fuss over us because we had traveled such a long way. He was famous for his well documented kitchen rants witnessed by all and sundry who visited the loos during service. He bought us a drink after one particular busy service and said he admired my car(he has his own collection)Sadly the conversation did not flow too often from my lips as I was totally in awe of him. I would relish another chance. John is obviously a complex personality,and in his day a truly great chef.

Only been the once John, not at all recently, however was uninspired and never felt the need to make a return visit and at these prices doubt if we will.

Its been donkeys years since we were at Hambleton Hall and even back then the bill was £100 plus. I seem to recall Tim Hart at the time writing an article in The Good Food Guide justifying the pricing, even going into quite a detailed breakdown of overheads. I was not too convinced at the time. Some of the pricing now seems way over the top considering what is on offer in other parts of the country, most especially London.

Anyone know if Gary Holyhead, ex Marco and L'Escargot(Michelin) is still cooking? Also David Cavalier another Michelin chef from the same era?

Thanks Guys, I know Shaun's food from Gidleigh Park and again Merchant House but have yet to visit him in Wales. We had some very good meals when Rowleigh Leigh was at Kensington Place but have not paid a visit to Le Cafe Anglaise as of yet. Had some good nosh and a right good natter to Tom Pemberton on our visit to Hereford Road. Ian Bates is a new one on me, thats another place to add to the ever expanding list

Of course Raymond Blanc is a true superstar from that era

I was pleased to stumble across this article today and it took me back a decade or two. Topically I commented on another thread a couple of days ago about a memorable Woodcock dish at Bibendum, around about the time Mr H was cooking with the likes of Phil Howard (The Square), Bruce Poole (Chez Bruce), Henry Harris (Racine) Jeremy Lee (Blueprint Cafe). What a kitchen that was. Again many moons ago at Le Manoir, we stumbled across a recently retired Simon who was dining with a Corrie star and we were grateful for a reminder that we had eaten his food when he was cooking at his peak. Michelin starred and a true destination restaurant in its day Bibendum was Simon Hopkinson's showcase theatre and we are grateful for the memory. Any other Michelin starred chefs from that era still cooking Michelin food apart from the above? http://www.bighospitality.co.uk//Default.aspx?page=articles&ID=203824

John, I'm not sure the "spicyness" that Amy D conveys has anything to do with heat. Although I may be wrong. From my experience (see above) its most certainly as hot as the Red Chilli version, however it is possible to dodge the dried chilli here as it is used more than the tiny birds eye bombshell ones in the Red Chilli version. I can feel a visit coming on (to them both)

Mmmm, Woodcock what a find. I'm sure Will Holland mentioned on yesterdays Saturday Kitchen how rare they are offered to chefs. Not had one for years in fact the last one was when Simon Hopkinson was cooking at Bibendum and we had one at Alex Aitkins, Le Poussin down in the New Forest, seems like donkeys years ago I'm envious.

Well Jamie was'n't there although he was in spirit at least as his photo with staff was on the wall. Now I really think veggies get a bum deal in restaurants. I mean treated like second class citizen type of bad deal, so of course with such a strong recommend to a carnivore like myself, I admit to be really looking forward to this meal. We love the down to earth shop frontage and the fine display of Indian sweets in the glass display cases. Quite a nice interior, in beige, and more beige and dark brown almost black trim on the chairs. Valentine hearts hanging from the ceiling gave a clue to the date. Seated at a table for four next to a comforting radiator we scanned the menu which boasts, 15 starters, 72 mains, various rice, and other accompaniments plus a sweet menu. Quite a staggering choice really. This is what we chose. Starters. Dahi Puri, eight crispy puris stuffed with potato, chick peas,& yogurt with tamarind juice (£3.45) Mogo Chips, deep fried Cassava chips with a tamarind sauce (£2.60) Spicy Pepper, Whole pepper stuffed with spicy hot masala, salad & chutney. (£3.65) Mains, Masala Dhosa, traditional rice pancake, potato, onion, lentil sauce, coconut chutney (£?) Mattar Methi Malai, Pea curry, fenugreek leaves, spicy masala sauce.(£4.95) Malai Kofta, Balls of paneer(cheese) potatoes ,cashews,, with chilli and tomato and onion curry sauce (£4.95) Boiled rice and chipatti. Dessert, Rasmalai, Sweet made from milk topped with cream & nuts. (£0.75) Gulab Jambu, Spongy milk powder ball in rose water flavored with syrup (£0.55) Now when I read that back it seems an quite lot of food and we must be looking like Mr & Mrs Piggy but I make no excuses for a healthy appetite, I would be very worried indeed if I lost it. Some of the courses were on the small side in truth especially the desserts which were mere mouthfuls. We were very pleasantly surprised by the varied and flavorsome direction that the different courses provided, and we are glad to report that at no stage of the meal did we crave meat. I did have to resist salting the food a bit, but must admit to liking a lot of the stuff (salt) Clearly with such a choice of dishes anyone could return time and time again and not be bored with the choice. It should be noted that they do not have a drinks licence, however you can BYO as we did. A sub £4 bottle of South African Pinotage from Asda which won an International Wine Challange Bronze, with a very convenient screw cap. Very generous of them they do not charge corkage. As we live miles away and fancied an aubergine dish we had one as a takeaway along with some Patra (curried colocassia leaves) The sweets on display were also very hard to resist so we had a large box of assorted for £5. The meal itself including the takeaway, a decent tip but excluding the box of sweets was £34, quite simply unbeatable. Very good recommend nickloman, just shows how a good local knowledge and egullet opens up a multitude of excellent unheard of establishments. Still like our meat though

I have cancelled our London jaunt this weekend and booked a meal here as I trust your judgement, especially after the goat curry recommend at Lasan. Wonder if Jamie Oliver will be there?

Thanks for that update, a "Windows" seat is almost a prerequesite. Our weekend visit has been put on hold. I like a no pressure dining event so hopefully we will put the kitchen to test in the coming weeks. Perhaps a blow out home comfort meal is in order for us too

Down the shmoke this weekend and just enquired about a table for Sunday lunch. I know its Valentines day so its a bit stupid of me perhaps to leave it so late to book but this place has been on my list for a while Seems the only menu available is the menu prestige at £58 which looks ok, however they are raising the service charge to 15% The only tables they have left are 12 to 12.30 with a two hour turn around Plus they want confirmation by credit card I am really worried about travelling across London as we are staying out West overnight and that two hour table time can quickly evaporate. Going to give this one a miss this time I think, but watch this space for a future report. On a brighter note, anybody been recently, or perhaps is going on Sunday who can post a review

Ever had that feeling that Everybody and his Brother has been there before you? I had that feeling with my first girlfriend and now KW8. Since its opening every critic and blogger has reviewed this place and most rate it very highly indeed. So I now feel like a very late arrival at the party. We arrived just after one on a busy Saturday afternoon and being that there were parking restrictions and no pay and display bays empty, we parked on a single yellow. Virtually across the road from the restaurant I asked a couple of diners who had popped outside for a fag if they knew it was OK at the weekend. "Yea, your fine there no problem" The extremely good looking greeter, who's name would be etched on my brain if I was a younger man showed us to our table which was directly in front of us towards the back of the room. At this point doubts as to the advice on parking kicked in and a couple of merry go rounds the block secured a four hour limit parking bay. Ah deep joy. Our room, the smaller of the two is very cosy indeed, tables the correct spacing apart and the seats facing into the room. I love the artwork, not one painting jarred, I would gladly own any of them. Having read quite a few reviews the game consomme, and game hot dog were to be my choice, however surprise surprise Cilla Mrs G had already plumped for the Pot roast Guinea Fowl with Bacon Choucroute and Roast Shallots from the set menu. I say surprise because normally if I fancy the table-d'hote she fancies something off the carte. As it was the Game combo was off, still the Wood Pigeon, Venison, Pork Cheeks, Sea Bream looked equally inviting. Seven starters, Seven desserts and Ten mains is easily sufficient choice to ponder over. Pricing is very kind indeed, especially the mains, four of which are £15/16 with just one over £20 in fact its £20.50 to be precise. She had the Veloute of Potato and Leek, horseradish cream and mackerel toast, which arrived in the cup and saucer that I'm positive the Game Combo was dished up in. Not that, that matters although it did look a bit poncey for want of a better description. Everything was as described if a bit of a non event. My Terrine of Winter vegetables with Ham Hock, glazed Trotter and pickled Carrots was the better of the two starters. Bread was White and Brown sourdough both bought in, plus a very good home made pumpkin and onion offering. We like this generosity with bread other restaurateurs take note. Onwards and upwards to the Guinea Fowl, a very tasty bird sitting on top of some creamy mash flanked either side by couple of whole perfectly cooked shallots. The sauce was perfect and clearly demonstrated the class in the kitchen. We both took this dish as the other main did not appeal so much. Wrong again was I, we ordered the dish, Slow cooked Salmon with Shallot (again) Puree and tarragon Gnocci as an extra course split between us served after the starters. When it arrived it looked a bit of a mess in as much as the pinky orange of the Salmon was surrounded by a vivid in your face beetroot foam, we were surprised. We were asked what we thought of it, as it had only been on the menu for three days. Assuming it had been sous vide, wrong, they don't practice the dark art here. We have eaten a lot of Salmon over Xmas and its easy to forget what "real salmon" tastes like until you eat fish of this quality. I just wish that I could source fish of this standard This dish was the dogs bollocks taste wise, close you eyes and your in heaven. Dessert were, Egg Custard tart with Golden Raisins and Nutmeg Ice cream and an ever so simple Rhubarb Jelly with Vanilla Ice cream. No real wow with these just ever so comforting to end a most thoroughly enjoyable meal We opted for a bottle of French Cabernet Sauvignon which quality wise and for fifteen quid is cheap a chips Service was good to very good led by Eric Handts making sure everybody was well served. Chef Mark Kempson is clearly very talented and with Phil Howard calling in daily (alongside his main duties at The Square)to oversee and assist, a fantastic future is assured. As you may have already gathered we are also big fans of this place and it has everything and more that could be expected from a chef with the Michelin pedigree that is Phil Howard. Stunning value on the set menu, and no dip in quality either, Total including extra course and a very good bottle of house wine, Thames tap water £73.06.

Nearly went Sweet Mandarin three or four weeks ago now, glad we went off in another direction now. I owe you one, you saved me a bob or two and a two hour round trip.

Every time we go out to eat these days my wife always asks the same question "Is it posh, do I need to dress up?" and I always give her the same answer. No. Whenever I look around in restaurants I see a whole load of different dress styles and as yet no one has stood out as being out of place. Our recent meal at Wild Honey, even though it has a "clubby feel" tells me pretty much the same. You will blend in nicely.

Thanks for the heads up on those two, £20 a head is peanuts money for a tasty and very filling (I assume) meal. Red Chilli money really. Don't suppose you have been to F Word featured Sweet Mandarin yet?

Any info on any of the other guys who are taking part? Any new kids on the block?

Jan Moir's jaded insight into fine dining is worthy of a read. Eight years (or so)at the coalface is a lot less time than I have endured, and I don't get paid for it http://www.dailymail.co.uk/debate/article-1250091/JAN-MOIR-Squid-bonbons-Liquorice-lentils-No-thanks-Ive-bellyful-poncey-food.html

Rumored on another site. "Anthony Demetre, Tristan Welch, and Tom Kerridge are competing with Jason Atherton acting as judge" Any truth in this Mr B?

Hope you enjoy it Andy Hayler visited recently, he did'n't enjoy it quite so much as me, however he eats out a lot more than me. http://www.andyhayler.com/show_restaurant.asp?id=675&country=England&restaurant=Galvin%20La%20Chapelle

I was planning a visit on Wednesday, good job I clicked on the website. I am awaiting an e-mail off Ryan to find out his next location.

Quite a few lines have been written about this place and we were really looking forward to a visit before Xmas but had a change of plan. Still better late than never., The main room itself is simply stunning, vaulted ceiling, massive arches, a not out of place newly constructed mezzanine with private dining for twelve, so the punters can gaze down at the plebs in wonderment. This area also houses the very posh toilets, so lets hope that the only thing that they get sniffy about is their lofty perch. Interlinking the old and the new,(restaurant proper and Cafe De Luxe)is a wonderful glass area where you can while away the hours eating and drinking. Prices for the mains are quite a bit cheaper here although some of the starters are a bit on the steep side. We were held up in traffic and phoned to let them know we would be late, needless to say after an hour of stop start journey I was a bit stressed but the room and the staff quickly put us at ease. About thirty diners including loved up Times columnist, Giles Coren, his lady, Esther, and doting inlaws were also partaking the ambiance. I guessed that this was his day off as all the talk from the table was of the forthcoming wedding and things like seating plans etc,etc. We wish them well. Warm salad of red legged Partridge, pomegranite, game vinaigrette, (£8.50) was my choice, and, Lasagne of Dorset Crab, veloute of chanterelles (£11.50) for the lady. Both very, very good dishes, mine especially was superb. At this juncture I have to pick fault, with the bread ,or should I say distinct lack of it. Brown sourdough is not everyones choice by a long way, so please guys at least offer a choice. If Kitchin W8 can offer a choice of three meet me half way and make it two Mains were, Tagine of Bresse pigeon, aubergine puree, and harissa sauce.(£22.50) Saddle of Denham estate venison, braised red cabbage and blackcurrant sauce. (£22.50) Hugely enjoyable food, my Tagine was served in the traditional pot but not like the one I bought in Morocco this one was very posh and clearly cost a bomb, don't ask I,m afraid I can't remember the maker, sorry Just to be a bit picky the aubergine puree needed perking up and the quails egg was well, only really for show. The venison dish was totally delish, not oversweet but just right, Mille-feuille of Yorkshire rhubarb, rhubarb sorbet (£7.50) Apple tart Tatin, creme fraiche.(£9) Personally I think the desserts are a bit on the steep side although it has to be said the sticky, chewy, very moreish Tatin is most certainly enough for two. My Mille-feuille (again a hearty portion) was satisfying although not quite up there with the rest of the meal. Whilst we were enjoying ourselves at table, a glimpse through the open kitchen witnesses bottles of champagne being poured into a pot (four or five bottles) and no, the chefs did'n't taste it. Its explained to me that this is for the champagne vinegar. Geoff Galvin had a day off last Sunday but need not worry because sous Zac Whittle (24) and his three helpers did not let him down they turned out some really good food. Service was as you may expect was good, not overly attentive, just enough. Alain Ducasse mentioned recently that London's dining scene is very exciting, we could not agree more, our two meals last weekend were top notch and comparable to loads of Michelin meals that we had last year. In fact I'll stick my neck out again OK, I won't Giles Coren's article in todays Times prompted me finally to get around to writing up my take on this place, enjoy. http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/eating_out/giles_coren/article7011041.ece