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felixhirsch

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Posts posted by felixhirsch

  1. Should be a very solid star if you ask me. Had three meals there now and all of them were spot-on. Service, food and the whole atmosphere just work. It's just the right place at the right time, although this kind of place would probably be right at pretty much anytime. Can only second all of the very positive comments from above!

  2. Had an interesting meal at Petrus in Hong Kong, here the report:

    For someone having eaten in the grand dining rooms in Paris, Monte Carlo or elsewhere in "Old Europe", the dining room looks a little amusing. Obviously made to look like one of these, it doesn't have the patina yet, and features some colour combinations that do not work 100% well. On the other hand, it fits well with the ostentatious chic that prevails in this city. There's plenty of gold, crystal chandeliers and other sparkly things. What this old-fashioned interior contrasts with is the view: In front of you, you can see pretty much the entire skyline of Hong Kong island and Kowloon. Despite not being in the highest building there is, it is a remarkable view.

    A delightful restaurant, offering pretty much all of France's finest offerings in terms of food, cheese and wine

    Any chef would have trouble getting his guests away from the windows and the view, but one has to admit that Frederic Chabbert does a pretty fine job. His cooking is very much influenced by that of the Louis XV, where he spent a few years. In fact, the menu reads pretty much like that of Alain Ducasse's flagship. Despite this however, Chabbert cooks food that looks a little different from the Louis XV and isn't quite as bold. Take a starter of stuffed calamari with clams, and a little rocket and artichoke salad. On paper it could well be served in Monte-Carlo, however the presentation is much more fiddly than what you have over there. It's more modern, with only one piece of stuffed squid and a few leaves lying around it. Taste-wise, the squid tastes like it could have been a tad fresher, not quite as fresh in terms of texture and flavour as the finest specimens can be. That being said, the dish is not a bad one at all. It shows that the kitchen here can cook very well indeed. The seasoning is well judged and the combinations work.

    Another dish that is even better is a lamb rack with ricotta gnocchi and aubergine caviar. Even if there is some useless summer truffle on top of the lamb, this dish shows great craftsmanship. The lamb is cooked beautifully, being tender and moist, whilst the gnocchi are as supple and soft as they should be. All in all, this again shows Mediterranean cooking of quite some quality.

    In the dessert section, you will be delighted by some of the most accomplished desserts served in Hong Kong. A classic St Honoré manages to bring back memories of Paris. Being extremely well executed and prettily presented, this shows how much talent the pastry chef has here. A little less inspiring is a straight copy of a strawberry tart that Jérome Chaucesse does at the Crillon. Luckily enough, the one here is executed without any mistakes, making for a delightful end to a meal here.

    The good food and superb service are complemented not only by the views, but also by a wine list that lists numerous vintages of Henri Jayer's and Lalou-Bize Leroy's various wines, and pretty much everything else that has a name in French wine. If the cooking develops more of an individual style, this restaurant could be even better than it currently is. Nonetheless, Petrus remains a thoroughly enjoyable restaurant experience. One that is absolutely perfect for a celebration of a special occasion, or just a wonderful journey above this hectic city's streets.

    For pics and more info, check here

  3. I'll be having lunch next week on Sunday in PAris, and am hesitating between Le Cinq and Bristol (they seem to be the only interesting options available).

    WHilst I've been to the Cinq once, I haven't been to the Bristol. Both restaurants are reluctant to send out their wine list, so does anyone know which has the better (meaning mark-ups that are somewhat bearable)?

  4. A friend of mine recently went to Noma. Contrary to most of what I've been reading over the last few years, he (along with two very knowledgeable diners) has been less enthusiastic about the meal. Whilst the experience was great, it certainly does not live up to the expectations one has from the best restaurant in the world. If you read the review, you will see what I mean.

    Apart from all the rave reviews, I'd like to know if some have had less great meals there (regarding the food)?

  5. Went twice now to Hibiscus, the last time in early Dec 2010, and must say that it was underwhelming each time. I simply can't see how it gets two stars? The service is now fine, the sommelier good, but the prices are far from reality. The wine list is in some cases twice as expensive as the Square's, the taste of a season menu is basically just the lunch menu without you having to choose etc...

    We had a miserable mackerel with apple starter and a decent wood pigeon. Even for a set lunch, it seemed a bit dull. To serve two minuscule pieces of mackerel and around half a wood pigeon (even at Fortnum's they cost no more than £3) is not that great in a two star. But, if you do it properly why not, here however the starter was so sour that it was a horror to eat, whilst the main was fine, more or less 1* level I'd say.

    Pity, but well, somehow it's much harder to spend £80 for a lunch here than the double at some other places.

  6. That's exactly the problem, Adam. It is by far the best restaurant in London, at least in my book, but it would be quite a surprise for me to see them get the third one. However, hope dies last, so let's see.

    If Wareing gets it, it would be close to a joke, not a single person I know that knows something about food liked that place. But well, he seems to REALLY want it.

  7. Cant see it happening (GR losing one that is) maybe for 2012guide but with Mark Askew back in the kitchen at RHR it has brought a level of stability to the kitchen.

    Rumours are circulating that Claire Smyth will be bankrolled by GR into opening her own place

    When did he come back? I went there three times last year, and never saw him. But well, that kitchen seems to do what it does pretty well. Like it or not, I doubt that it had a stability problem.

    The only one worthy of three stars is without doubt Brett, but then again, it is a very different restaurant to RHR and Ducasse. Who knows.

  8. I had two very different experiences there. Both times great food. Perfeect burgers, great charcuterie and terrines, an exceptional saucisson brioche and desserts that wouldn't look out of place in a starred restaurant. Will write more soon, but I absolutely love it.

    I doubt that they pay someone to go in, considering that on a Tuesday night they had 200 bookings, but well, who knows what happens.

  9. Here we go. THis is the review of my first meal here. I wouldn't be able to say what could have been any better, and can't really see how some have attacked this restaurant on some rather dubious grounds.

    As I've mentioned above, apart from a rather boring combo of beet/goat's cheese and crab, the meal was great. The lemon sole was beautifull cooked, and worked perfectly with the other ingredients, the pigs neck was tender, a lttle crispy on the outside and got all the punch it needed from the capers and the salad cream. The celery dish was interesting too, and even the chocolate fondant was fun.

    The wine list has been stocked up by now, I hear, and should be rather interesting, given the restaurant's wine consultant.

    I'm going to go back soon, as it really was very enjoyable.

  10. I must say, that I was also very impressed with my lunch, a mere week after opening. Had 6 courses, all of which were faultless, without any technical mistakes. Products were very good too, and the dishes all worked brilliantly. The room was beautiful, and service very friendly, and efficient, if maybe not quite as polished as in the Gavroche or some other multi-starred eateries.

    In addition, the wine list looked proimising (they have massively increased the offer since my visit), as he employs Mugaritz's ex-sommeliere.

    Stand outs for me: The same beef with Miso, a celery dish, and a lemon sole one. The other three were with one exception (beet/crab) very good, and therefore I've booked a return already.

    I absolutely loved it, even if he might get a few ideas from Noma, or other restaurants, but then, which chefs don't?

    That is one of the best parts of this place: It is the only convincing modern restaurant in London. I don't know any other place, which serves edible and well-made modern food here. Lest sunbeam can show me one that is actually better, I am happy to go here.

  11. Went here for a long lunch, featuring 12 of the chefs finest courses. Upon sitting down we were enchanted by the surroundings, the great weather, and the good service. However, when the food started appearing it started to be less amazing. Many dishes featured similar construction, with some clearly in lack of seasoning or clear tastes. HOwever, 3 or 4 were very good, with a scallop dish being exceptional. THerefore I'd suggest to anyone, who goes there, to stick with these dishes, rather than having of the length of our menu.

    I can't really say that it was a 2* meal, due to the large number of mediocre dishes.

  12. David,

    I have a review on the blog, and went back last night.

    During the three meals I've had there over the last year I think the level of the cooking was very high. Some dishes (turbot yesterday for example) are a little disappointing, but others like their foie preparations or the large scallops are great. I like the style of cooking, which is very ballsy, a little on the rustic side, even though it becomes more and more refined too.

    The only thing that is a bit unfortunate is the wine list, which has some obscene mark-ups on some stuff. You can find some reasonably priced bottles there, but the majority is rather over-priced.

  13. Went to this place a few weeks ago and was stunned by how good it was. Nothing was below very good, and some courses were outright amazing. Some of the stronger courses of the night featured regional seafood, and a beautiful Lamb, which was prepared absolutely perfectly with tons of flavour and a great textural contrast between the meltingly tender meat, creamy fat, and thin crackling.

    All in all, the food was very pretty, natural, and clean. Execution was faultless too, and service was polite, young, motivated, smiling and warm. The only weak point was the wine list, which needs a little more time I suppose. For the moment it features stuff from all over the world, which per se isn't a bad thing, but a lot is not yet mature.

    I can only say that this was a real discovery, which I will revisit as quickly as possible.

  14. Great meal here after a rather shaky experience last year (which still included the dish of the year). Antonin seemed to be on top form, turning out one stunning dish after the other. Visually, it was a dream, and taste-wise it was no less good. I can't say much more about how good the cheese here is, and this time I really took advantage of that, and had quite a bit for myself. The wine list is not as expensive as many say, although the stuff by the glass is a rip-off. Anyways, for me this was a 2*-3* meal (judging by UK standards). Great stuff!

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