PhilD
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I noticed that Jill Dupleix (Terry's wife) had started writing in the Sydney Morning Herald again, including a piece on what kitchen equipment to pack in your baggage, whilst your household items are shipped home. I had assumed he, like us, would be heading South.
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We have lived in Bath for over two years and had not ventured to our local Michelin starred restaurant. Average reviews, and the then chef, Chris Horridge’s mission to develop healthy menus using nuts and seeds were far too challenging for us. Late last year Michael Caines took over the kitchens and installed one of his top chefs from Gidleigh Park, the Priory’s sister hotel. After allowing a few months for the changes to flow through we thought we would give it a shot; it is really good.
The Priory is located on the outskirts of Bath in leafy grounds, a gravel drive leads up to a bath stone building, and inside it is archetypal “country house hotel” with flagstone floors in the low ceilinged corridors, and soaring 4 meter ceilings in the main rooms. There are lots of over stuffed sofas, and every wall is covered by a multitude of old paintings.
Canapés and aperitifs are served in a reception room that leads onto the terrace, and we opted for drinks on the terrace, which is very pleasant. First up were two canapés, a tuna tartar and a quail egg on a pea veloute. The egg was very good with the pea and egg working well together, a promising start.
The menu choice has a tasting menu at £90, ALC at £65 for three courses, and the lunch menu at £30 for three courses. We chose the lunch menu and had a choice of 3 starters, 3 mains, 3 desserts and a cheese course (for a £6 supplement).
After a couple of glasses of wine we were led into the dining room; it has a lower ceiling and is nicely formal with understated decoration, in fact quite a contrast to the other part of the hotel, due to it's simplicity. Tables are doubled clothed, and the glassware and cutlery is all good quality, with the slate plates of the Horridge days only reappearing for the petit fours at the end of the meal.
Four varieties of good home made bread are offered and then the basket is left on the table, a nice touch. We then start with an amuse of tomato consommé, lovely vibrant flavors, a great example of the dish.
My partner started with “Salad of asparagus and polenta; poached eggs and truffle vinaigrette” I chose “Pan fried brixham scallops; confit chicken wings, sweet corn, and chicken jus”. Both dishes are really good, excellent flavours and precise cooking, the presentation is meticulous, and we really enjoyed every morsel.
My main was “Breast of Creedy Carver duck; creamed cabbage, turnips, honey and five spice sauce” my partner chose “Roast grey mullet; chorizo puree, violet artichokes, and gazpacho sauce”. Again both dishes were immaculate, and we could have easily eaten them again.
Next we added a shared cheese plate, this came from an extensive but fairly tired looking selection on a trolley, however the five cheeses we tried were good, served with a good selection of breads (different from the ones we started the meal with). For desserts, a “Hot lemon soufflé; raspberry sorbet” which had the added surprise of a crème anglaise poured into the soufflé, and a “Sable biscuit, summer berries; vanilla mouseline, yoghurt sorbet”. Again both dishes are very good, although the soufflé had the edge. To finish coffee and good petit fours, including a really fine crème brulee.
Service was impeccable throughout the meal, very professional but also friendly. The young sommelier set us off very well by recommending the cheapest Beaujolais, a Brouilly at £31, that she had just added to the list. Given we were half way through a £45 Albarino at the time I thought this was a nice example of not pushing us up the list.
The final bill was £151 - £76 on wine, two lunch menus at £30, two coffees and petit fours at £4.80 and a cheese selection at £6. The cheese should have been £12 but we misread the menu and had taken it to be an extra course at a £6 supplement, rather than a substitute for a dessert at a £6 supplement. When we queried this on the bill it was reduced to £6 instantly, again faultless service especially as it was really our mistake.
We had a chat to our server about the chef changes, she thought business had really picked up since Caines had taken over; Horridge divided opinion with people staying away because of his evangelical healthy menu (we did). It was interesting to see how enthusiastic and happy she was when she spoke about Michael Caines and the kitchen team, clearly he has brought a lot to the Priory. The other notable person in the kitchen is James Nathan a Masterchef winner, we were told James is on breakfast duty at the moment, clearly he is serving a proper apprenticeship.
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Pam, hasn't Heston just changed the tasting menu at the Duck and revised some of the established dishes? I can understand his dilema, if he doesn't play the "greatest hits" then the punters won't be happy, so he needs to balance innovation with familiarity at the FD. But then doesn't it bode well that he will have another venue and therefore a broader stage to show his talents? I find it perplexing that Heston can be criticised for not changing his menu often enough and then criticised because he is opening a new restaurant and broadening his repertoire. They seem contradictory.Let’s face it the Fat Duck is pure theatre, some of his dishes are brilliant, but blink and you miss them. Still I suppose some people do go to the same play over and over again. It will be interesting to see if he comes up with something really different.
Didn't Chris Staines leave to go to a new role that had been in the offing for some time, I understood he wasn't pushed.I just lament the breaking up of the superb team that was at the MO.
I wonder how much truth there is in that. I can't comment on RHR because I haven't been to, but the other restaurants I have tried all delivered. I wonder if standards decline, or whether fashions move on; diners who return expect something different rather than food that may appear dated.No problem if standards are maintained but from what I have read recently they haven’t been with GR. -
I have two dinner and two lunches there. It is very good, I haven't tried many "gastro-pubs" in London, but have tried many across the country. For me The Harwood is head and shoulders above the rest. Their famous venison scotch egg is a great place to start, freshly cooked with the yolk still good and runny. The rest of the menu is interesting and very well cooked. Stephen Williams is a talented chef and it shows, and the owners including Brett Graham ensure food is a key element of the pub. The menu is seasonal and changes frequently, I haven't had a bad dish (although the doughnuts for dessert are far too sweet).
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upmarket bistro - sounds a bit like keller's bouchon where some french laundry dishes make occasional guest appearances. if so it'll be a very welcome addition to the london scene
Upmarket bistro at the sumptuous MO - oh how hath the mighty fallen and we can all see what happens eventually to absentee chefs - reference GR!
To be fair Pam, I reckon it will be more than just a simple bistro serving ciabatta sarnies etc. We are talking a three star chef here, who I believe deserves a bit more respect.
I don't think the place should be knocked, even before its opened. Seems the British way though doesn't it.
If its H.Bs take on a 'Bouchon' set up, then it will be grand.
Well said.
I also don't understand the GR comment. His food standards are good across all his restaurants. OK many people don't find his style exciting, or innovative, or to their taste (but lots of people do). But he does deliver to that style in a consistent manner across his brand. Divorce your personal taste from your judgement and then assess how well he does as an absentee chef. OK GR has some financial challenges, but given the scale of his expansion it was always going to be risky, a risk exacerbated by the recession. But he is still in business, and reports predict a return to healthy profits.
So if HB expands like GR, keeps his house style and product as consistent (no, I didn't say the same as GR), and makes as much cash; Is there a problem?
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Out of curiosity, if this seats 140, how many can fit into the Fat Duck? Assuming it's far less (about 40-50?) I can see the need to "dumb down" the menu for the new restaurant, if it's not possible to recreate the fat duck experience for so many people.
But I have to say that "upmarket bistro" doesn't sound terribly compelling or original, and not, IMO, what the (general) public would expect from Heston. If I were Heston's or the Mandarin's marketing people, I could see the need to upweight the "experimental" angle somewhat.
The article say the FD has 44 covers. Why the negative assumption that it is dumbed down? What is wrong with being positive?
I am glad it won't be FD2, I welcome a top chef like Heston extending his repertoire and the dining options. If I want FD food I go to the FD, if I want Hinds Head food I go to the Hinds Head, I will now have another option, something different, no doubt something interesting, and given his track record it is likely it is going to be good.
How do the public know what they want until they see/taste it? I bet you wouldn't have found many takers for FD menus (even amongst the informed diner) prior to launch; lets wait and see what a "Heston Bistro" is like before we throw rocks, I bet there are a few surprises. I doubt the marketing people are worried: have you seen the car park at the Little Chef in Popham...?
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That sounds like the China Court restaurant above the strip joint (Legs 11)! Did it look like this? I've not been for a few years because the dim sum wasn't very good back then. News is that it hasn't improved either. Pity you stumbled onto that bakery because the Golden Pond is just opposite the main road. Next time you are in the area you may want to check out the Peach Garden café in the alleyway next to China Court. Excellent roast meats at bargain prices.
Yep that is the one. One of the other reasons we thought it would be OK was how well lit it was, many of the other restaurants were quite gloomy. After living in HK we good Cantonese restaurants would have very bright lighting to show off the quality of the food, the dark ones had something to hide. Looks like the rule doesn't transfer.
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That's a shame but are you sure it was off Broad St? I know not of any Chinese bakery near there let alone a restaurant above it. Ah well you know for next time.
Sorry, should have read the map, it was Hurst Street, and it was on Ladywell Walk.
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If it's not too late for a suggestion, my regular is The Golden Pond in the Arcadian Centre in the middle of town. Second would be Wing Wah next to Wing Yip Supermarket but that's a little out of town.
The chicken feet at The Golden Pond is better than in Hong Kong!
Thanks for the info. I am afraid we missed the post until we got back, we tried one off Broad Street. It was pretty dire; Chung Fung wrappers nice and thick and chewy. We chose it because it was above a good looking bakery, and it turned out the best part of the meal were the baked custard tarts.
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Well it worked. I have booked a night in Brum tomorrow to wallow in curry. Lasan for the posh night out and then a balti for Sunday lunch. I have a list, Adils, Saleems, Al Frash or Punjab Paradise. Should I consider any others?
Definitely consider the revitalised Jyoti's in Hall Green (near Sparkhill) which is a Gujerati indian vegetarian restaurant - so different from your standard triangle fare. It has been recently revamped. Highly recommended. Go for the dhosa and the thali http://www.jyotis.co.uk/
If you want to go farther afield, my new tip is Zeenat Kebabish in Coventry (159 Cambridge Street next to the mosque) - this is an Afghan place which does excellent kebabs (lamb chops to die for) on their charcoal grill. Service is slow so be prepared to wait. No alcohol.
Thanks, we eventually chose Al Fraish, mainly because of their car park opposite. It was an early lunch and the food was great, all tasted very fresh with good spices. The naans are excellent and arrived straight from the oven. It may not be the best in Brum but compared to Bristol/Bath it was superb, we actualy thought the curries were even better than Tayabs (in London).
Lasan was also very good, quite the best I have been to in the UK. Started with Subji Tikki and Hyderabadi Seekh Kebab which are first class, the mains were Dum Ki Biryani (Goat), Methi Murgh and Mirch Baingan Ka Salan (Aubergine), the goat was wonderfully fragrant, and the chicken methi was possibly the best I have tried.
We loved Brum, everyone was so friendly and chatty, good food in a nicely rejuvenated city (a lot of change since '82). A really good option for a weekend break, it isn't a weekend break hot spot so hotels are very reasonable.
We would have tried Purnell's but it is booked until October for weekend dinners....!
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We are heading up to Brum on Saturday for a weekend curry fest.
My better half refuses to eat curry for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Thus I need a decent meal to start the day that isn't curry,
I think I can get away with a late start, coffee, then dim sum.
But is there a decent dim sum place in Brum? (freshly cooked please, no carts)
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**** BALTI NEWSFLASH ****
**** "BALTI" BID FOR DPO RECOGNITION! ****
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/fo...word-Balti.html
You can imagine in the dark corridors of the Brummie council, "Er Barry, i've got a bostin idea...".
Genius.
Well it worked. I have booked a night in Brum tomorrow to wallow in curry. Lasan for the posh night out and then a balti for Sunday lunch. I have a list, Adils, Saleems, Al Frash or Punjab Paradise. Should I consider any others?
Also, any good watering holes near the Mailbox?
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Since my earlier post, a friend (who is fan of the restaurant and hotel) mentions she took her elderly mother for afternoon tea as a birthday present. Service was poor and quantity/selection miserly - one cake each and a couple of small sandwiches. In her view (and mine) a rip-off at eighteen quid.
John, it wasn't your daughter was it...?
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Surely a sad day when one gets thrilled by the prospect of eating food " overseen " by a chef
I would agree if it was simply "overseen" but as Jay says the kitchen is run by one of Heston's top chefs. I doubt Heston will be hands off on this; common sense would indicate that he is going to be very involved with the restaurant and put his stamp on it, it won't be a franchise.
I too am looking forward to seeing what he does, with 140 seats it implies it isn't going to be FD2.
At the risk of upsetting all the foam and jelly fans out there I cannot get excited about this ...a classic example of the Emperors new clothes IMHO..
I assume you tried the Hinds Head in Bray then...?
Do we actually know what is planned for the restaurant, lots of assumptions but little knowledge. I like the full spectrum of HB's food, from the Oxtail, kidney, and suet pudding at the Hinds Head through to the more esoteric creations at the FD.
My guess is that he will surprise us, and it won't be another FD, Hinds Head or Little Chef.
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Au Bon Accueil is also probably my favorite restaurant right now, and the pigeon is indeed awesome, as are the sweetbreads, the sole, and many other courses. But I don't think it qualifies as a traditional bistrot. It's pretty much a bistronomique.
Okay, I'll ask:
What's the difference between a traditional bistrot and a bistronomique, s'il vous plait?
And which one costs more?
A traditional bistro serves "traditional" food traditionally (no I am not being smart), whilst a bistronnomique would have a high powered chef in the kitchen cooking very focussed, quality food, in some they push boundaries, in others they focus on getting the best on the plate. A traditional bistro may still have great food, a nice ambiance etc. but it may not be completely food centric.
IIRC the bistronomeque movement comes from a number of chefs who turned their backs on the traditional Michelin approach (decor, service etc.) to go back to the roots of good cooking and putting the best on the plate for a reasonable price in quite a simple setting. Pioneers in the movement would be people like Christian Constant (various), Yves Camdeborde (Le Comptoir) and Stephane Jego (Chez l'Ami Jean). But there is also a new wave with people like Guillaume Delage (Jadis) and Daniel Rose (Spring).
As with any categorisation the lines between restaurants blur but I think this definition gives the right positioning, although the enfant terribles who turned their back on the traditional Michelin standards now find that Michelin has changed and they are getting stars and awards for their food in less grand surroundings.
Which costs more? You get cheap and expensive in both categories.
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I can't stop going back to The Harwood Arms for great "gastro-pub" food. It specialises in game so do try the venison (not a lot in season at the moment). The beer is good and is ideal to wash down one of their famed venison scotch eggs, cooked to order so the centre (yolk) is still runny - bliss.
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Hi,
My wife & I are moving to Australia for a couple of years and had a goodbye dinner with my parents last week.
We greatly enjoy this restaurant; one of the few really good french bistros in London.
From what I can see the restaurant hasn't changed much over the five or so years we've been going there, apart from the bread. They used to have lovely crusty french bread, but it nows seems a bit cheap
Having said that the food is always good with interest dishes a cut above the normal bistro fayre.
We had:
- watercress soup with crab
- soft roes on toast
- shared a label anglaise chicken with creamy broad beans & proper sauteed potatoes
- vanilla ice cream with valhorna (sp.) chocolate sauce
I'd always recommend this place, though the 14.5% service charge is a little cheeky.
On a separate note, moving to Australia means I'm going to be spending less time on this forum, which is a shame since it's always been a good read. The Australia board doesn't have the same interest & banter
I'll have to follow the adventures of Food Snob, Felix, Ulterior Epicure etc. from an even greater distance.stay hungry all
fergal
Fergal, we are heading back to Aus soon. I intend to try and inject some life into the board over there. Lets both try. And don't worry lots to write about, you won't go hungry.
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Surely a sad day when one gets thrilled by the prospect of eating food " overseen " by a chef
I would agree if it was simply "overseen" but as Jay says the kitchen is run by one of Heston's top chefs. I doubt Heston will be hands off on this; common sense would indicate that he is going to be very involved with the restaurant and put his stamp on it, it won't be a franchise.
I too am looking forward to seeing what he does, with 140 seats it implies it isn't going to be FD2.
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But it's very hard to believe this, when they are situated in such a touristic area and in the centre of Paris.
I would have thought that was quite logical, most tourists are interested in seeing the sights and cheap food (look at the cafes around Notre Dame) thus it will only be a small informed minority like us who head for the food first. There also are aren't that many significant businesses/offices in that area so I assume the "local" business lunch trade is quite thin.
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Indeed and does anyone know where Chris has gone? I'd happily go to a new place of his rather more than I'd go to a new Bloominghell place
S
Heston for London?Looks like it.
Chris Staines is also confirmed at Heckfield Place, Hampshire
http://www.bighospitality.co.uk/item/3275/.../238/pg_ftr_art
David posted this up-thread.
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I was having a conversation about this very topic with Mr. Hayler as I found this practise of serving chocolates and macaroons as a 'pre-dessert' to be rather odd and only practised in certain French restaurants in London (e.g. Ducasse, Ambassade de L'ile). Apparently this practise is quite common place in France but probably an alien concept over here. I guess British restaureteurs prefer to squeeze their customers off as much money as possible (I am referring of course to the practise of offering petit fours only if you have coffee or tea).
I bow to Andy's greater experience in these matters. I did live in Paris but only ate in a few 3 stars and they (nor the other starred restaurants I tried) did not do so.
I wonder is it in lieu of a small pre-dessert? Maybe it is the more traditional approach and the nouveau pre-dessert concept has usurped the practice.
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If I'm not mistaken, it is common practice for restaurants in France that little chocolates and macaroons are brought to the table as 'pre-desserts' before your actual dessert arrives. This allows you to nibble away while waiting. At ADAD, they further 'barrage' you with a bon-bon trolley if you have coffee/tea.
I don't recall ever having seen this. Yes, macaroons and chocolates as petit fours, with the coffee, but never before the dessert proper.
Did they forget Fergal's dessert, or did they serve a cheese course instead?
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Ok, some amendments have been made to the questionnaire from the feedback so far which should allow participants to more easily/accurately express their views.
I accept there is a big difference between 1* and 3* restaurants - this survey is not really looking into this distinction however.
The argument I originally had was that Michelin restaurants, whilst providing excellent cuisine (in most cases) sometimes don't quite match up to customer expectations in terms of service, the 'wow' factor, creativity, etc. but as has been mentioned in the survey, Michelin ONLY consider the quality of food on the plate, but to a lesser degree the inspectors may be influenced by some of the intangible aspects. I had a read of Derek Bulmer's post on here from a few years back and he had some interesting comments on the whole assessment process particularly regarding creativity in 2 and 3* restaurants.
One could debate whether Michelin restaurants aim to satisfy the inspector or the customer?
Anyway, 25+ people have responded to the survey in just a few hours and I'm grateful for your feedback and interest thus far.
A definite improvement, thanks. Will you publish your findings here?
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I appreciate your feedback. It's intended as a 'snapshot' of Michelin diner's views on their overall experiences of Michelin restaurants.
Clearly there are a number of variables in dining out, some mean more to people than others. Also, some questions are linked to previous research carried out, albeit not always in the fine dining sector, so some of the questions may seem rather unconnected.
The intention is to get an overview, from sophisticated diners, on their experiences of fine dining and to identify any areas/aspects that are worthy of further investigation.
Admittedly the survey may appear a rather crude attempt at getting information, and may not be perfect, but short of standing outside such restaurants with a clipboard, it is an expedient and convenient way to gather primary data from the target audience I am aiming at.
I'm sure the responses will be enlightening and further the debate surrounding aspects of the meal experience in fine dining restaurants which still appears to be a rather under-researched area.
I agree with the previous posts, this survey is very tricky to complete and walk away with the confidence the answers really reflect my thoughts.
Q1: I don't eat 52 Michelin meals a year, but I do eat far more than 12. It may be better to have a numeric scale Once: 2 to 5; 6 to 10 and so on.
Q2: Is OK if "multi sensory experience" is a defined term i.e. a Fat Duck "sound of the sea" like experience. Although are there many others?
Q3: Does cuisine mean quality of the food, or the type of food i.e. French, Italian, or Indian Other guests? Do you mean my mates or the people at other tables?
Q4: I agree with Matts comment
Q5: Too much room for interpretation in the question. I would write a narrative answer.
Q6: This will correlate with Q1, more experience results in greater variation.
Q7: Wouldn't it be better to use a 7 point scale for each factor as innovative and memorable are highly unrelated factors. I have had wow meals that are innovative, that are memorable and that are both innovative and memorable.
I too would be happy to help with your research if I had more confidence in the survey design. If questions are ambiguous I am nervous about filling them in. I think you will find sophisticated diners are pretty sophisticated about lots of things so your survey needs to be pretty tight to start with. I don't believe you need to stand outside restaurants, simply build a more sophisticated survey that gives us room to respond accurately.
The Fat Duck 2009
in United Kingdom & Ireland: Dining
Posted
From reading his third paragraph I would say Jasper reads this forum.