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PhilD

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  1. This was a fantastic meal. I was worried it wouldn’t live up to the hype and our anticipation but it was superb. We have eaten at The el Bulli Hotel in Seville so had already enjoyed “the greatest hits”, and whilst we loved that meal I was concerned this wouldn’t live up to the memory. It did.

    The menu shows a lot of strong Asian influences with the use of sesame, kimchee, miso, soy, abalone and various mushrooms. The blend of tastes is very subtle and the menu interconnects various themes and flavours across dishes. For example, sesame as a linking flavour crops up a number of times, as does the Japanese dried fruit Umeboshi. Most of the dishes have many elements and layers of flavour that would take a forensic palette to identify. We have tried to recall all the flavours we could but without notes it is impossible over 34 courses (taking photos is challenging enough).

    For us this was a meal that is in a different class to nearly every restaurant we have eaten in, it wasn’t simply the innovation in the dishes but the technical execution is superb. Some of the dishes are very serious, other whimsical and fun. Some worked for one of us but not the other, but no dish disappointed, obviously we had our favourites, but even between two people who enjoy the same food we could agree on our top dishes, and to me that shows the sophistication of the menu.

    We arrived early, which is a mistake as the restaurant (gates) don’t open until 1:00 pm, we managed to “sneak” through the gates with a Dutch journalist and photographer, and we then waited under the trees for the doors to open.

    The “meet & greet” is a bit of a production line with successive arrivals ushered through to the kitchen to meet Ferran and inspect the kitchen, but it is a nice touch and it still makes you feel special. We are then ushered through to the table and the performance starts. Arrivals are carefully paced with each room gradually filling up, usually you start with the “tastes” part of the menu on the terrace but at 37 degrees it was too hot to sit outside, so we started at our table in the Salon.

    The wine list is encyclopaedic, but we chickened out and copied the advice the sommelier gave to the Dutch journalist who was sat across from us (there was also a Spanish journalist in our section who wore a white Panama hat throughout the meal). He recommended sherry (Fino Piedra Luenga) to start and then two local wines, a white Grenache (La Garriga ’07) and red blend (Les Terrasses ’07). All three were great and reasonably priced with the sherry at €5 a glass and the wine €40 a bottle.

    The meal starts with the first 10 (out of 34) courses arriving in quick succession, before the pace slows with each course then arriving individually. Our serving team was really good, not only were they professional and informative but they also had a great sense of humour. You are told not to eat some components of dishes like the leaves the truffle dish is served on, and this became a running joke with us, with a “don’t eat the...” after most dishes were presented.

    It seems that not all the tables get the same dishes. I am allergic to walnuts which could explain this, but we definitely didn’t have a dish which was mixed at the table with a brush and green powder, but neither did the two adjacent tables, similarly the large table of eight in the middle of the room started with different cocktails (a Caipirinha and Mojito) as well as our first course of:

    Margarita cactus - the flavour of a margarita captured in a reproduction of a cactus leaf, my partner loved it, I am less wowed but then I don’t drink cocktails. Interestingly other tables had other cocktail reproductions including mojitos and caiapirinas.

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    Crystal of parmegiano - very thin, glass like crisps, with a really intense taste, more parmesan than the real cheese.

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    Coniferous - you are presented with a sprig of pine leaves which you suck the flavour from and eat the needles before finishing with a pine and gin cocktail.

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    Spherical olives - the tried and tested famed spherical olive, as intense and olive as usual. However, we have had these at the El Bulli hotel and the memory of the dish was greater than our experience this time. Maybe this is because the next dish is amazing.

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    Mimetics peanuts - a facsimile of a peanut in its shell, filled with intense liquid peanut. Again more intense than the real thing. It made both of us grin from ear to ear.

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    Sesame cracker - intense sesame, it reminded me of tahini paste, and to be frank I wouldn’t eat spoonfuls of that neat. It gets the flavour but not really to my taste. Cherry umeboshi - very intense, very very cherry. The treatment of the cherry enhances the flavour wonderfully.

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    Vanilla chips - my partner enjoyed these, although I found them to be quite neutral in flavour possibly because of the competition for the other dishes like the olives and peanuts.

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    Coconut sponge - a cold coconut sponge, a cross between the texture of a Cadbury's flake and feather light coconut ice-cream. A great flavour texture combination.

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    Flower nectar - you are presented with a flower and told to suck out the nectar. It is sweet and honey like. It is what you expect nectar to taste like. Pleasant but just OK.

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    Black sesame sponge cake with miso - the miso is on one end which you eat first, then the rest of the sponge. It is a flavour combination that works really well, and it is very intriguing to experience it in a classic “western” sponge cake. A very enjoyable dish. In quite a short space of time we have had three Asian tastes with sesame crackers the umeboshi and now sesame and miso, Ferran has headed East for new flavours and this starts to come out as the meal progresses.

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    Oyster leaf with dew of vinegar - this is a real star, the leaf has a few drops of vinegar like dew , with a few finely diced cubes of shallot at the end. Eating it is exactly like eating an oyster with the classic dressing. It is a weird, but really good sensation, and another taste that makes you really smile.

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    Ham and ginger canapé - very tricky to eat as it is soft and gelatinous but very good intense flavours, quite a Spanish dish and nice to have something a little more traditional.

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    Truffle surprise - two different truffle dishes with white summer truffles, the surprise is the liquid centre (you don't eat the leaf). It was OK but neither of us thought it outstanding and my partner is a truffle nut.

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    Montjoi lentils - this dish is really interesting, the “lentils” are very fine sesame balls like fish roe in a thin liquid, at the edge of the dish are eight very small dabs of four different flavours. Each of the flavours bought a different dimension to the dish with fish, citrus, more umeboshi and miso (we think). The dish has some really distinct Asian flavour combinations clearly showing a swing towards the East.

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    Prawn two firings - this dish comes in two parts, first a little spoon with an intense paste, and then a prawn, the tail is a large prawn tail (what else) but the head and legs seem to be reconstructed and are really crunchy and deep fried. I have had many well cooked prawn heads at teppanyaki tables and these seemed to capture the essence of those flavours. The Asian influence is again very strong, the spoon of prawn paste is close the flavour of the shrimp paste used in Thai cooking, very intense very salty. The “whole” prawn is then eaten which balance this strong taste, with the legs and head eaten last to bring that teppanyaki taste. A really great dish.

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    Mimetic almonds - this is a good looking dish, one one side an intense tomato sorbet, on the other a peach coated in what we thought as umeboshi again but we couldn’t be certain, it gave the peach a cherry quality. In the middle are a selection of almonds. Some are really almonds, others are little delicate jellies, others are ice-creams. Lots of different flavours in the dish and I thought one was foie gras.

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    Kimchee raspberries - another beautiful looking dish, purple brussels sprouts with raspberries and a green string like vegetable (squash?). We though the sprouts were dyed blue, but our waiter assured us they were natural. The raspberries are stuffed with kimchee and the contrast between the sprouts, the fruit and kimchee works really well adding an interesting dimension and moving the east/west fusion cooking forward.

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    Soya milk with soya -a cooked soya milk, a milk ski surrounding some warm milk with variations of soy around it, including beans, tofu, sprouts, and then some dabs of flavouring pastes including a small dab of chilli (I think). For me soy/tofu works best with a strong flavour to balance its blandness, here I thought the ratios are off, the dish is too subtle for my taste.

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    Mushroom-CRI with hazelnut - returns to a more traditional western palette of tastes with solid textures and flavours. We failed to identify the type of mushroom, which looks like branches or twigs with a firm rubbery texture.

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    Roses/artichokes - a plate of rose petal carpaccio with artichoke juice was nicely arranged with the soft (poached?) petals covering the place and a strong reduction in the middle, the flavour of the artichoke had almost taken on an anchovy taste. An interesting combination.

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    Pinenut shabu shabu - is an interesting take on the Japanese dish. Three clear triangular packages of different pinenut creations are quickly soaked in turn in a broth. The package starts to melt and when you place it in your mouth dissolves to release the flavour. Another interesting dish with a great intensity of flavour. However, if you soak the parcels for a moment too long they dissolve into a slippery slime that can’t be eaten politely.

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    Trout roe risotto - the roe are warm and are garnished with a piece of gold foil which makes it a good looking dish. Great texture from the roe, a simple dish that lets the taste of the roe come through.

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    Abalone - a myriad of ingredients composed to look like an Abalone including abalone and micro mushrooms. Abalone isn’t common in Europe but obviously a delicacy in Asia, again we detected Asian influences in the way the fish is paired with different mushrooms.

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    Scampi tongs - the waiter described these as scampi feet, it was a dish of perfectly dissected claw meat on a bed of sesame seed sauce with a XXXX foam. The prawn and the sesame seeds work well together.

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    Squid with foie fat and corn risotto - the corn risotto is very interesting and balances well with the tiny squid and foie foam. We had enjoyed Squid at Rafa the previous evening and whilst the presentation here was more complex the squid was not cooked as well and came off second best to Rafa.

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    Rabbit canapé with your giblets - two crispy fingers of rabbit skin/fat with various types of rabbit offal including the bits I could identify which were brains and kidney. Very meaty and intense.

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    Kidney of lamb with Jerez consommé, yoghurt and fennel - more offal, very thinly sliced kidneys with a foam sauce (can’t recall the flavour) and a small pool of consommé next to it. It was an OK dish, but we felt we should have finished the main/core part of the menu with something a little more substantial.

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    Pond - the first dessert arrives as a bowl with a frozen sheet of ice across it, brown sugar and mint are sprinkled across the top and then you use your spoon to crack the surface and eat it. It is cold, minty and refreshing.

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    Yoghurt meringue - meringue fingers arrive on a plate, a little like “langue du chat” you use these to scoop up a foamy lemony sauce to make a lemon meringue finger, a good deconstruction of a classic dish.

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    Coco - the big hollow white ball of frozen coconut milk sprinkled with a little curry powder, you crack the ball and break off slices that melt in the mouth as they have such a low melting point. These are served together with the next course.

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    Puff pastry of pineapple - two crisp sheets/nets that sandwich small chunks of crispy (freeze dried?) pineapple.

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    Roses - a dark berry gel shaped into a rose served with a white foam and mouse like sauce with chunks of black-currant. The flavour is really intense causing your mouth to pucker up.

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    Shellfish - a fun dish to end the meal, a classic shellfish “fruit de mer” with a mound of ice with muscles, cockles and lemon wedges. Except they are shells filled with ice-cream and sorbet and the lemons are preserved. Nicely whimsical.

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    Morphings - arrive in a red perspex case, which is opened to reveal an amazing selection of chocolates, with two drawers that are pulled out either side to reveal more chocolates. Some mint leaves embedded in chocolate leaves, others containing freeze dried strawberries and apricots, orange chocolate twigs and raspberry chocolate starfish, truffles and ganaches. A great selection of perfect chocolate which I defy any one to finish, although we tried very hard.

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  2. From yesterdays meal it is clear Adria has headed East for inspiration.

    I agree with the leaning east. We had dinner last week - our meal was entirely different than many of the tables near us. Lots of Asian inspired dishes. I'd say about 90% of them were the same as AG posted above.

    I'll get pics and a review up this weekend I hope. I found the setting to be amazing as others have commented - right on the beach, much of our meal outside. Service was good, though it was interesting to watch - a chaotic circus with people running around and around serving the food. I didn't find the food itself to be amazing, actually I got rather antsy and bored with it about 3/4 the way through the meal - maybe my expectations were too high. Everything tasted good - nothing offensive or bad, some excellent but it got old for me rather quickly. A good experience overall, but nothing i'm in a hurry to rush back to on my own dime.

    I agree about the dip 3/4 of the way through. Whilst each dish was perfect the pace/style needed adjusting. My previous "El Bulli" meal in Seville had slightly more substantial "main" course as a finale before the desserts which was a good high to end on.

  3. We had a really fantastic lunch there yesterday, 34 courses with some differences from posted menus. I will write up a fuller post when we get to our next hotel. Interestingly different tables in our section had different menus.

    From yesterdays meal it is clear Adria has headed East for inspiration.

  4. You could start by reading John Whiting's very witty and wide ranging if slightly down- beat essay at http://www.whitings-writings.com/Travel/ile_de_re.htm.

    We spent a family holiday there a two years ago and not much has changed since John's visit in the 90's. Just look for somewhere simple to eat - there will be little memorable but the seafood will be as fresh as it gets.  The best meals we had were cooked at home after a trip to the market.

    Re attracts a lot of snobbish Parisiens who seem to stay behind the high hedges that surround their stylish cottages and the local restaurant scene sometimes only rises to the mediocre. The local wine industry has not progressed much - John's comments are rather kind.

    es, few did. An oversi

    The island is however a cyclists' paradise and a great place to unwind.

    I am pleased to report it is rather better than John and Kerriar report. We stayed in Saint Martin de Re which is really busy in August with lots of relaxed holiday makers. There are lots of restaurants to choose from and m any bars. The first night we ate in the a restaurant called La Jardin XXXX (sorry can't recall the full name), quite cheap, good food and nice staff.

    The next night to the very trendy BO (Buddha Bar goes to the seaside), a lovely garden, great staff and good food, each dish was interesting and worked well. There isn't anything simple on the menu but the combinations do work.

    Le Avant Port is quite highly recommended and in a great location. However, the whilst the food was OK, the servings were stingy and the prices high. Dishes are meant to come with potatoes or vegetables, but few did. An oversight, or portion control?. I couldn't wait to leave.

    The most popular spot must be the ice cream shop on the quay, a multitude of great flavours, it was packed every night with at least 10 servers dispensing ice cream.

  5. Fergal, I am back in September.....

    I ate at Est a few years ago and we liked it, but I don't remember a lot of detail (is that a telling comment), I like Peter Doyle's food and as you found he is a great fish chef, I used to love his restaurant in Potts Point (Cicada) , so i am certain we will give it a go once we get settled. To me Est is a "big night out" restaurant, my guess is the ambiance is better suited to being glammed up.

    Try the Italian at the Ivy (Ucello) for a great lunchtime setting, are they also doing lunch specials? PS - don't take a camera they don't like photos of the pool area.

  6. Something I didn't mention was that we were still on last year's menu, which we found surprising.  They opened a couple of months later this year, so they've had eight months in the lab and they still haven't got the new stuff sorted out?  Come on, guys ...

    I understood the new menu is introduced gradually as the season starts up, it isn't a big bang change over, so the menu will morph from 2008 to full 2009 over a couple of months. It also looks like there are a couple of older dishes in the menu like the 2003 Omelette. For me the combination of the best from the past with innovation looks pretty good - we are there in a couple of weeks.

  7. I think to get 'foodie' and 'comedian' from a critic/food writer is indeed a rarity, and the only ones who achieve this consistently are Dos Hermanos.

    I find DH a bit moribund, the reviews tend to go along the same lines and get a bit repetitive. But I do keep reading them; comfortable like an old pair of slippers...! :wink:

  8. Hmm....its myths and legends time again folks...cue much hand wringing from hoteliers and restauretures about how they are going to be driven to the wall by paying a few pence more than the minimum wage..

    Fact is the catering industry is notoriously padly paid and said restaurant owners are the first to start whining and crying that 'you just cant get the staff'...wonder why lol  :wink:

    The interesting thing for me is that the only real beneficiary is the government (and that is rarely commented upon). The employers NI bill will go up, and that money will either come from increase prices, reduced profits, or reduced costs (take home pay). I suspect the net impact to earnings will be negative, as the "law of unintended consequences" kicks in.

  9. Anybody else apart from Jay Rayner been here recently

    http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/200...ner-restaurants

    Certainly seems worth a visit, especially with those bargain basement prices :smile:

    We ate there again last month, I booked the 10 course dinner menu for lunch with a group of friends. It was very good, the each dish is small but overall the meal filled us up and some of the flavours and combinations are very good. If anything it was better than out first visit in Feb.

    I agree with Jay's niggles apart from the Tiramisu which I though worked quite well (and I am usually cynical about deconstructed dishes)

  10. Visited the Wheatsheaf in Combe Hay (just south of Bath) for dinner last night and it was very good. Last year they had a Michelin star rising, but failed to get the elevation this year. IMO I thought it went to their heads and they started to try too hard, the food became too complex and didn't suite the place, possibly why they failed to qualify.

    The food is now simpler, but with the complexity and technique that raises the Wheatsheaf above normal gastro-pub fare. Breads included a black pudding roll and tomato and olive rolls as well as standard white and granary (all home made). I started with Quail, which came with a confit sausage, a breast/leg, and a poached egg on toast. Main was fillet of pork, smoked pork and rillettes with various purees and vegetables. For dessert an Eton mess with gooseberry.

    The pub has great gardens overlooking the valley and a good wine list plus food Butcombe on draught. An ideal spot on a warm summer evening; if summer ever returns..!

  11. It was so long ago that it would be unfair to judge the food, but we stumbled on it and were taken on a small boat to the restaurant. I was charmed.

    I ate there twice, and both times had reasonable and enjoyable meals (last time approx 2 years ago). It isn't going to be a hot gastronomic meal but the location and charm of the restaurant makes a nice, and not too expensive, change from the norm. Sometimes it is all about the food, but at other times the venue and the company create the best meals, this is one of those places.

  12. Talking today to someone at work whose friend manages a well known and expensive London restaurant with a view. Said friend reckons that the up-tick in the minimum wage due in October also comes with extra rules which will no longer allow restaurateurs to top up their staff wages (actual wage well below the minimum hourly rate) with the monies received from the service charge. This will mean that the service charge will be reduced to around 7% but food prices will go up by at least 10%. Friend of friend also claims that there are quite a few restaurants in London who don't pay their FOH staff anything at all apart from the tips.

    This raises any number of questions in my mind. For a start, I can't find anything on the directgov pages which mention the change in rules for tips. And I certanly can't see any restaurant reducing the service charge. And are there serious restaurants in London who are currently getting away with paying wait staff no guaranteed salary?

    What have you lot heard, if anything?

    Sarah

    We discussed it on the board earlier in the year, the Independent had a campaign about it. It will be interesting to see the impact on bills. It may impact the chains the most, as this is a highly competitive sector I expect companies to be keeping a close eye on each other and for us to see some interesting pricing strategies, after all consumers are spending less not more at the moment.

    http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-...ns-1680398.html

    http://www.articlesnatch.com/Article/Chang...islation/669063

  13. We are heading down to the Cinque Terra, based in Levanto for a week. I did a search but most threads with Levanto in them are dated. Recommendations please for good food, all price points please, the more local and rustic the better. We realise this is prime tourist territory but would love to avoid the common tourist traps if we can.

    We are happy to travel for a few meals but need a few that are in staggering distance of the hotel

  14. We are heading to the Ile de Re for a long weekend. Any recommendations for good food?

    I couldn't do a search because of the four character limit in the search engine....!

  15. What is Paris like on Christmas Eve?  I've been there many times, but mostly between March and November.  When I lived in NYC, I found that Christmas Eve was very festive, I think -- and this might just be my Crackpot Theory -- mostly because people live in small apartments and so in order to get to be with their friends, you have to go out.

    Last year, after many years of living back on the West Coast, we went to NYC for Christmas and had a great time: getting a table at the Spotted Pig at 10pm on the 24th was a madhouse; an hour of drinks before we got a spot, every minute worth it.

    Is Paris "open" on the 24th, or is it closed?  Thanks!

    The pre-Christmas period in Paris is very good, the small neighbourhoods wit lots of local shops seem to remove a lot of the crass commercialism you get elsewhere. Of course you also have the big shops with wonderful window displays, and the Christmas lights make the city look magical.

    The city does empty a little in the days before Christmas as a lot of people head out for the holidays, this means it is easier to get a seat at some places, but equally others do close for the holiday.

  16. Opening report and comments in the Guardian

    I popped in for lunch today, so an early report.

    It is a good looking restaurant, which shows the person who put it together has good taste. Chunky wooden tables (as mentioned on WoM) are interesting and add character. It feels like a cross between a nice cafe and a very informal restaurant, which is good, because that is what it is.

    gallery_58133_6172_7074.jpg

    FOH are very friendly, and create a good atmosphere, I ate early so the dining room was half full, but the pacing seems good with customers well spaced across the service. They are full for weekend dinners for a few months (I think I heard October), and the Thursday is pretty tight. It sounds like Friday lunch fills up in advance and they were also full today. Business is obviously good.

    The lunch menu is very limited, 3 starters, mains and desserts with one special. In all honsety it isn't a menu that creates excitment, it seems pared back for lunchtime simplicity, an example is a "water buffalo burger" rather than the dinner version of "water buffalo fillet steak".

    So far so good, then the bread arrives and so does a sinking feeling, sliced factory brown bread. OK the oil with it is quite good, but Mat needs to source better bread, poor bread doesn't set the meal up very well.

    I chose a "Sweet Chilli Squid" to start, it was nice and tender, and could have had more chilli kick (£7).

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    Next "Mackrel with potato salad and a gooseberry sauce", the fish was OK, the sauce OK, the potato salad OK (but a little undercooked for my taste), and the samphire was OK (£11).

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    For dessert the "Lavender Ice cream" which lacked a really strong lavender punch, and came with a strawberry sauce and chocolate crackle, unfortuantly the flavours all merged and it ended tasting a bit sickly (£4).

    gallery_58133_6172_1627.jpg

    I liked the restaurant, and I think Mat has got a lot right, avoiding many of the common problems in small start-up like this. However, whilst the food is OK, it really isn't very ambitious and really reminds me of decent dinner party food rather than the standard I would expect in a restaurant. The food is a little plain, and lacks the garnishes and presentation a professional kitchen would give. I did only try lunch and dinner dishes may be more sophisticated. But, I think he may have the measure of his local market and from what I saw the punters loved it, more ambitious food may actually lose business; the ladies on the next table were debating whether to bring their husbands but thought the food may be too complex for them. If I was in the area I would give it another go, but wouldn't go through the hassle of booking very far in advance.

    Good luck to Mat because it looks like he may have a great business on his hands, a business that addresses the local market rather than draws in food fanatics like us.

  17. Ptipois, I am not sure the trend is gone. I, for one, hear the term bistronomique more and more. You say  "Maybe because, with the help of economic realism, the accent is now primarily on food."

    But... bistronomiques are ALL about the food! Basically, the true bistronomique is a place where the chef prefers to spend his dollars on ingredients and kitchen labour, and not so much on service or décor. A simple-looking, casual place where... it's all about the food!

    So I don't see why such resistance to "categorizing" and calling some places bistronomiques...

    It's interesting to note that in Brazil, where I'm from, certain places are opening and calling themselves bistronomiques - they are PROUD to be categorized as such. And yet in Paris you say the "trend" is passé. Is it?

    I would say the term has become so diffused that it has lost it's meaning. In many respects they style of cooking/food it sought to categorise has become mainstream. Maybe in our universe of well regarded bistros the old style ones are the minority and should be called out and labelled whilst "bistronomiques" are now the norm, and are a broad group, so are not worth calling out.

  18. I love the salt idea! I will try it this weekend. I also put a sprinkling of MSG on my steak if I dont think its good enough on its own. I know a lot of people have an aversion to it but I think it works wonders with some foods (home cooked fries!!)

    Odd, was having a discussion on MSG the other day on another forum the other day - but I wouldn't worry, there's no evidence it does any harm other than anecdotes and internet scare stories!

    PhilD - I'm not sure about a wet brine for steak, but worth a try I guess. I doubt it would be that different to the dry salting method. I've done roast chicken before following Blumenthal's brining method which was fantastic.

    Oli - I agree, I would assume that as steaks are cooked quickly they don't lose as much moisture so don't need added water like poultry and pork.

  19. I love the salt idea! I will try it this weekend. I also put a sprinkling of MSG on my steak if I dont think its good enough on its own. I know a lot of people have an aversion to it but I think it works wonders with some foods (home cooked fries!!)

    It looks like a similar technique they use in the US to cook turkey i.e. soaking it in a strong brine solution (and in the foods industry to tenderise/bulk up meats). The salt gets into the meat, disrupts the muscle fibres (de-natures the protein) and thus tenderises the meat. With brining the de-natured proteins then absorb water resulting in juicier meat (the reasons Americans brine "dry" meats like turkey), and the de-natured protein doesn't coagulate on cooking making the meat more tender.

    I assume that steak doesn't really need the added moisture from the water in brine, but it would be interesting to experiment...although it could end up really flabby like "factory" produced ham.

  20. I always enjoy reading Elizabeth David's French Provincial Cooking this link allows you to read pages 18 to 52 that run through the food of each of the regions.

    It was written in 1960 by an English cookery writer who is regarded as one of the best ever British cookery writers. The rest of the book has some very good recipes with lots of background about the history of dishes and the regional variation. It is both a cook book as well as a book to simply read for pleasure.

  21. One interesting thing about this article is that HB says that the a la carte menu items will be in the new london restaurant. That is a good idea I think

    Do you think that means "old" as in the one they recently stopped, or "old" as in the original FD menu before he went completely "molecular"....? I read it as the latter, but it could be either.

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