Saltydog
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Posts posted by Saltydog
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While there are a couple (as in two) signature items that have remained on the menu consistently (the egg with caviar, and the shaved foie gras) the pace of change on the other menu items is quite rapid -- even if you go twice in the same month you'll notice several changes both at the whole-dish level and at the component level. Of course, it's basically a restaurant without regulars -- most customers only eat there once -- so it's not clear that menu changes are all that important from the customer-interest perspective.
I've never experienced a dinner at Ko that lasted more than about two hours, unless it was the late sitting and I voluntarily lingered after dessert. But the actual meal service is pretty much two hours no matter what. For 10 courses, it's hard to imagine two hours (12 minutes per course) being considered a slow pace.
The food wasn't served at a slow pace the cooks pace was slow. In the real world cooks move much, much faster. There is no need at Ko. Hell, half the fun is the mad rush.
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Just for your information, the Asian head chef was almost certainly not Chang (who rarely cooks at Ko), but probably Peter Serpico, Ko's chef de cuisine (who, despite his name, is Asian).
Thanks, I made note.
Review below:
If you’re not a New Yorker or a hardcore foodie you may not have heard of the hottest restaurant in New York City. Momofuko Ko, the latest James Beard award winner for Best New Restaurant in the United States and the most coveted reservation to be had in the city. Not only because Chef and co-owner David Chang is one of the hottest chefs going right now but also because the restaurant only seats 14 guests. In a metropolitan area of almost 19 million people you can imagine it can be tough to get in.
To understand “Ko” you have to understand it’s truly a chef’s restaurant. Everything is focused on the food and those who make it happen. The 14 seats are at a raised counter that surrounds the cooking line. The line is the typical sized line you’d see in thousands of restaurants. Instead of preparing the food and placing it in the “pass” for the servers to pick up it goes directly to the customer. The cooks prepare, serve and explain each dish. The “servers” clear, pour wine and take care of the bill. Two servers, three cooks, 14 customers. Like I said, it’s a chef’s kitchen. The walls are plywood, no art no fancy finish. . The music is loud and alternative, the cooks control the selection and volume. Again, it’s a chef’s kitchen. It’s almost anti customer. It’s like Chang’s revenge. “His rage against the machine” and the scary New York dining scene. A fucking jungle.
The night I was there I was seated near the chef I assumed to be Chang but to be honest I can’t be sure. (Edit: I’ve since been informed it was most likely Chef de Cuisine, Peter Serpico.) I don’t follow the chef scene and am not familiar with most of the “star” chefs. He was Asian and in charge. Who ever it was his mood was best described as brooding. All the cooks were silent and emotionless. They’re weren’t quiet because they’re in deep thought, christ, the Red Hot Chili Peppers were blaring over the speakers. I think it’s because they simply don’t want to talk to the “fish”. To break the ice I asked Asian dude what kind of yanagi he was using and he replied, “What? Do you mean what brand”? I said “yes”. “I don’t know”. Huh? The tattooed boy in the middle had a western handled Misono sujihiki and the boss is using a traditional Japanese knife used for sushi and he doesn’t know who made it? I don’t know a single cook who owns a yanagi and doesn’t know who made it. He just didn’t want to talk. I didn’t detect a smile the entire time I was there. If you’re going to remove barriers why not take advantage and interact with your customers? Especially if you have the time to do it. There was no “rush” in this restaurant. The pace was slow and easy. Quite frankly too slow and easy. It would drive me crazy. When I noticed the cooks familiarity with the menu I asked how often it changed. “Seasonally”. No wonder they looked board. They’ve been cooking the same menu for weeks and at an agonizingly slow pace. If you’re expecting to see sparks and razzle and dazzle in this kitchen forget it. If you thought you’d chat up the cooks forget it. If you didn’t know what to look for the show could be boring. For most I’m sure it is. Some folks I noticed were intently watching the cooks and others could care less. I was watching. Closely.
The Food: (I elected to have each course paired with wine)
I didn’t take notes and there is no printed menu. So my recollections may not be perfect.
Amuse
Grilled octopus with miso aioli and asparagus. Black pepper biscuit and salted pork rind. (Although they called it cicerones?)
The octopus was grilled perfectly, good flavor and tender. I thought the miso aioli was a bit tame. The black pepper biscuit was killer. No shortage of butter I’m guessing. Moist and flavorful.
Prosseco
First:
Long Island Fluke sashimi style with whipped buttermilk, poppy seeds, chives and white soy sauce.
The fluke was excellent, super fresh but I have to question if anything caught off Long Island is kosher raw? The whipped buttermilk was a match I’m not sure about. I guess it’s a kin to pickled herring in cream sauce. A classic here in the Midwest and probably most likely in the Big Apple as well. Very heavy on the poppy seeds as well. I’m not a fan of poppy seeds.
A nice German white, a Gavertz I think.
Second:
Santa Barbara uni (sea urchin), English peas, some kind of seaweed in chilled dashi broth.
Nice flavor in the dashi, not too strong, uni freaks me out a little but was the best I’ve had.
Sake
Third:
Snail sausage, mounted butter sauce, hand torn Pecorino, chives
This one was right up my alley. Excellent pasta, and I really enjoyed the sausage. He used chicken and pork fat for the base. Nice mild flavor. Probably why they paired it with a sauvignon blanc. I didn’t care for it but I’m not a SB guy.
Fourth:
Lightly smoked soft boiled chicken egg, American Sturgeon caviar, onion soubise, mini potato chips
One of the best dishes of the night, I didn’t detect much smoke in the egg but it was cooked perfectly, the yolk oozed out and was covered with the black caviar. (Which was surprisingly good) The onion soubise just tied everything together. Man, the soubise was good! I watched him make it and mounted it with a shit load of butter. (Not a bad thing in my book) Oh, and the potato chips added the texture, an integral part of the concept. Simply excellent!
A kick ass New Zealand Chardonnay
Fifth:
Lychee gelee (jelly), shredded torchon of foie gras and pine nut brittle.
A sleeper. The pretty bowls couldn’t disguise this unattractive but delicious dish. At first I had my doubts but once you combined the three ingredients it was excellent. The rich buttery foie with the cool sweet jelly and then the crunch and sweet pop from the brittle. Yeah, it was good.
A sweet German, A Riesling I think.
Sixth:
Soft hell crab, fresh heart of palm, celery, lemon juice, Old Bay seasoning.
Nice balance in this dish. I loved the straight forward approach. It hit damn near every taste bud in the mouth. I watched as middle guy thinly sliced the palm heart but unfortunately they prepped the celery ahead of time. It was sliced super thin the length of the stalk. Mandolin my guess. Both were tossed simply with fresh lemon and a lttle Old bay. Beautiful crisp salad served beneath the crab. My only problem was with the texture of the crab. The sauté the crab but they use the technique of tilting the pan at a 45 degree and cascading the hot oil over the crab collecting in the bottom of the pan and repeating rapidly. I think it doesn’t get the crab as crisp as a traditional sauté but that might just be me.
An excellent sake
Seventh:
Fried boneless Short ribs, grilled ramps, spring “alum”(?) and veal reduction.
They sous vided the short ribs for 48 hours and then chilled them. At service they take an 8 ounce chunk and throw it into the deep fryer for about four minutes. Then they slice it serve it with the ramps and a funky green sauce (Spring alum?) and nap some veal reduction over the top. Woah! It may have been the best tasting beef I’ve ever had. Incredibly flavorful and tender as hell and still medium rare to medium. Man, it was good.
A very nice Zinfandel.
Eighth:
Cream cheese encased guava sorbet.
I’ll be borrowing this one. They wrapped the excellent sorbet in cream cheese. It was a great look and a nice contrast.
A sweet white
Ninth:
Poppy seed ice cream with lemon curd.
As I said before I’m not a poppy seed fan. I will admit it was interesting paired up with the lemon curd. Again a nice contrast.
A sherry I think.
All in all a great dinner. I enjoyed it greatly. A rare chance to see into the one of the hottest kitchens in America. I wish the cooks would have been more approachable but I admit I’m a little jealous of the fact that they don’t have to talk if they don’t want to. Kinda like “don’t poke the monkeys in the cage”. I felt the value was good as well. Essentially 10 courses for $100. The wine pairing was $85 and excellent. I love the fact that it’s casual. I also like Chang’s straight forward style. I love the atmosphere and will try and return. If I do I’m going to be poking the monkeys.
There is no doubt that it’s a chef’s restaurant.
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Thank you, very helpful. Yes, I prefer the bar.
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I'm a long time Pro Chef and restaurant owner traveling to NYC for biz/pleasure. I was told to go to this place. I had no idea what a task it is to get in. Well to make a long story short there was some confusion on my reservation attempt and I e-mailed them to clarify. What are the odds I get an answer? How good are they at confirming reservations? Do they? Is the place worth the headache?
Any suggestions on solo dining in the Tribeca area? Price no issue.
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30 minutes south of downtown in Caledonia. You said you were looking for a hidden gem.
sebastiansfinefood.com
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Good food, lousy room. Comfort is seriously lacking. High end steaks and the latest trimmings.
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Meh, foodies.......you'll never get it. And the pros out there who go along should be ashamed. But then again I'm guessing you don't know any better.
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I think those places were meant as a reference. I understood the reason for mentioning them.
Ok, great. It will be during the week. Thanks.
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Oh, and Sanford- I like if I get a four top and NOT the Banqette. (sp?)
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Price isn't an issue. I'm looking for one of those places a native would go or something that is a can't miss. I'll be with my wife and adult daughter.
Dream Dance-Won't go. It's a principle thing.
Roots- More style than substance.
Bacchus- One of my favs
L'Etoile- Don't get to Madison often.
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Next time you're in the area let me know. I live in Waukesha county and am very familiar with what's (little) out there.
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I will be in the big apple in mid January. We will be attending a dinner at the James Beard House and need some other suggestions on must-go places to eat or dine. We'll be doing the fancy thing at the Beard so more casual and less expensive would be great.
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Cut your losses. Buy a steel knife and save the ceramic for slicing mushrooms.
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I'm faced with this issue on a daily basis. As a result I "cheat" a little bit. I'll sear one side of the tuna on a hot spot on the grill or in a hot pan. A nice thin crisp surface will result. I turn the tuna over and use the same spot on the grill which has now cooled from cooking the tuna. (or turn the heat down if pan searing) As a result the outer layer on that side of the tuna won't get as crisp. It makes slicing a whole lot easier and your slices will still have that nice white ring around the outside. You can also make your slices thinner which in my opinion eats better and looks better.
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Bring in a dozen doughnuts for the waitstaff. Position them next to the coffee machine.
The next day bring in the photo of the kitchen crew all bent over with a doughnut stuck in the crack of their a$$. Tape to coffee machine.
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I've got a bunch of knives, Euro and Japanese. The 8 inch Chroma chef's is my main knife. I love it. The blade, weight and handle are perfect for me.
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Your linen company will probably clean it for you. How they get some stuff white again is beyond me. I don't think I want to know.
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I would think your local fish house would have live lobsters? If so, pinch their middle thorax, it should be hard and firm. Soft ones have been in the tank too long.
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I make a point of putting my prices on my menus when advertising. Alot of people check out the restaurant's web site before visiting.
When ever a publication inquires on prices I'll refer to our avererage per customer. Some will ask for a price on a 3 course dinner including one drink.
Bottom line is, restaurant's web site should have current pricing on their online menus.
P.S. Fatguy, is that a thick or thin crust pie?
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CIA Greystone in St. Helena.
I go when my creative juices run stale. They have classes for every level. The advanced levels are great for professionals. Not being classically schooled I found the classes a great experience. Teaming up with your peers from across the world is worth the class alone. The kitchen there is amazing.
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Interesting, I've never heard of google ads giving any sort of legitimacy before. In my experience, people find them irritating and try to avoid looking at them by installing ad-blockers on their browsers. I thoroughly recommend using the Firefox browser and the Adblock plus plugin for just that purpose.
Legitimacy may be the wrong word. It makes it look more "official".
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Given the way it's described in the first post, yes. This is not the description of a personal/for-friends-only and/or diehard fans site:
"It was decided that a ‘portal’ was needed to be developed to support both restaurant’s websites. A re-direction of both restaurants to the one site. In the process of this conversation a lot of banter went around about our marketing plan 2008 and driving our new customers to the website through every marketing initiative we developed for 2008. It was agreed that for this to be successful the site would have to be fun, informative and interactive."
He's talking about marketing plans and new customers there. With that in mind, the design is really a problem. I didn't even realize at first that Rare and Metro were the names of Chef Fowke's restaurants. And why are they at opposite ends of the button bar? Having google ads on a commercial website, or even the more casual part of the website, just seems like a bad idea. I use an adblocker anyway, so I won't be seeing them, but instead see a blank column where the ads would otherwise go. But anyway, google ads are for people who have blogs up just for the fun of it and really need that few extra bucks a month to keep the site online. If you have those ads on your portal, it makes you look like you're really hard up for cash, that people aren't buying your food. It basically gives your potential customers the opposite impression that you would want.
About the content, there's nothing wrong with putting up gorgeous pics and commentary, but the design of the site really impedes understanding of where those pics were taken, if those are items that are available at either place, etc. I'm sure you could get a web designer to set up a nice, intuitive design that allows you to customize content and add pics as frequently as you want. I would really do that, or at least find a different template to use.
I have a personal blog that's not attached to our restaurants site. Although I have attached the restaurants sites to my blog. I "blog" for entertainment and therapy, not for business reasons. My regulars know about the blog and get a kick out of it. It's by no means a serious attempt at anything. It really is for me.
Soon we will be doing an over haul of our restaurants sites and have considered including a blog but decided it was not professional. I wouldn't feel comfortable swearing or writing what I feel.
I've included google adds in my blog only because it gives it an air of legitimacy. Certainly not for making money.
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That chicken sounds really good. I have 12 different types of pepper powders on hand including both sweet and hot smoked paprikas so it would be doable. I'm just not sure it fits into the overall homey/wintery flow of the menu. Definitely one to keep in mind though.
A single cheese w/ garnish is a possibility to consider.
I may be able to get away with 2 wines, I'll push for it, but I'll keep the pinot in mind in case they won't budge.
Hello, please allow a noob his two cents. I think an elegantly presented walleye tempura is a great idea. With some interesting and colorful acrutraments.
I'd be a little careful with chard or collards with such a mild fish. Walleye is huge around here and I serve it all the time.
You could play with the fish n chip theme and include julienned fried potatoes in the presentation. Or if you have a spiral slicer, thin, spiral cut strings fried into a "nest" and placed on top of the fish for presentation. Maybe a Asian inspired red cabbage slaw under the fish tempura (good color and crunch) potato garnish on top of that, some whimsical colored garnish sauces on the plate. When doing these kinds of dinners I like playing with the "dichotomy" of the courses.
Consider including beer with the dinner. They don't sound like "wine-oes" and a well crafted beer would go great with this course.
Momofuku Ko (Part 2)
in New York: Dining
Posted
It was very good but I've had better. I've had better locally. You also can't ignore the crappy stemware and arrogance of the cooks. If they want to play the "bad boy" image let'em. Let'em know it should cost them as well. Just like the real world.