julot-les-pinceaux

Etoile magazine this month says that Briffard's menu will only start in the fall. Is it a new development or are they wrong?

Cool.

I hear you have good fruits, at least...

Now that's a great tip, thanks -- I'll remember it next christmas. And it confirms me in the general rule: no scallop in the summer, on either side of the Atlantic.

It's not, actually. It is a dedicated menu featuring in particular the roast chicken you can see rotating in the tournebroche at the end of the room. I just reviewed l'Atelier NY put did so in the all-Robuchon thread on the France forum: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...=0#entry1577390

I went to the NY branch and found it much more impressive than both Paris branches. Having the tasting menu there (unlike in Paris) made plenty of sense, and chef Suga actually had something to say about the season and the ingredients. It started with a nice amuse of lemon and vanilla gelée with fennel cream -- it rinsed the mouth and awakened the taste buds at the same time. The pea soup on a mint jelly was of intense clarity and purity, its taste was like one simple and perfect line on a white screen. A panna cotta of asparagus was a brilliant dish, a brilliant and complex harmony of savour, emphasising wonderful ingredients. The langoustine carpaccio, with poppy seed, was another wonder of harmony (both played the same role in the meal, as my wife had the asparagus and I had the crudo). The foie gras dish was totally foie gras, even with the reinforcement of eel: rich and intense, with caramelised brown sugar on top, crème fraiche, espelette and pepper on the side. In a way, it was another rinser like the amuse, only rich instead of light. Scallops were enormous and well-cooked but, quite frankly, this US trip has not convinced me of the gustative interest of those Maine scallops. It was cooked with Bordier seaweed butter, which is never bad. An Amadai fish in a lily bulb broth had not strong taste identity, and its main interest was the crisp on top of the perfectly cooked fish. On the whole, I was less convinced by the savory dishes than I was by the cold starters, with the exception of the best beef I ever had. I also exclude from said savories what I considered the culmination of the meal, a dish of morels and asparagus, some ham and a poached egg inside a toast. That was brilliant and delicious, the juices of veal and morels and the running yok mixing in the end make the end even better than the beginning. The sweetbread was good, but nothing like l'Atelier Paris though -- it's more meaty than melty. The Kobe beef, as I previewed, was extraordinarily good and quite frankly the best I ever had. To be fair, it was my first high quality Kobe. Is it beef or is it butter? Desserts were also wonderful, methinks, especially the grapefruit one. They showed the same high precision and mastered seasoning that the whole meal had shown, relying on very meticulous mise en place. Talking with the chef later he confirmed that impression that, given the many constraint arousing from being in the Four Seasons in NY, and his commitment to high quality, his thinking of the dishes revolved around the organisation he needed to send them. It also led us to a wider reflection on the nature of Robuchon's art. I knew already that Robuchon is that encyclopedist cook, excelling in just everything. Discussing with Suga, I realised that he had another precious quality, that of obtaining what he wants from people working with him. Another striking Robuchon quality is his set of value from another time, especially the dedication and commitment he inspires -- of course you work endless hours, are yelled at and make no money: you get to cook great food! A final word about the service which I found tip top --- friendly, efficient, making you feel special and taken care of. At 190$ for the tasting menu, l'Atelier is expensive but it is a much higher end restaurant than the Paris ones, a real fine dining experience. Pictures of the meal are here.

I'm pretty sure that La Butte Chaillot doesn't serve Bresse chicken, even if indeed their roast chicken is the only reason to go there. Given actual retail prices for good Bresse chicken and the difficulty of sourcing them, I actually think that starred restaurants offering often offer relatively good value (as some do for truffle and other really hard to find ingredients), even if prices are scary. In Paris, I am indeed not aware of anyohne offering better Bresse than Fréchon at le Bristol. Heading south east and not mentioning Blanc, the poularde Alexandre Dumaine in Saulieu and the poularde en vessie of Bocuse are great too. In Paris, one of the features of the transformation of Lucas-Carton into Senderens is the transition from Bresse to Landes, quite successful (but it isn't always on the menu). I like the chicken dish at l'Auberge Bressane (classic à la crème et aux morilles). But despite the name, I would not bet that they actually use Bresse chicken. In general, even great bresse chicken is a very special ingredient. It's only the best chicken you can have from a certain point of view. In my view, roasting it (btw, Taillevent does it) is always suboptimal as opposed to poaching it (poularde en vessie, demi-deuil, Alexandre Dumaine). For roast chicken, other breeds give better results. Also, different breeds turn a simple roast chicken into very different dishes, with different in taste, texture, the way the skin becomes crispy, etc. Chicken is an universe.

Ducasse and some others serve only seven meals a week. That's because they want to keep only one team. That's also because fine dining is more and more about the happiness of the chefs -- see l'Astrance, Spring, Ducasse indeed... Actually, as Degusto would argue, it's impossible to maintain real fine dining levels with frequent openings. If you are open 365/7 then you have to have an industrial approach to your production (and sourcing), even if it is high end. Those who still make a difference between an industrial and a human process can taste the difference.

Because food at Taillevent has nothing special. The charm of the place lies in... well, the place, and also the wine list and the very professional very civilised service. It's basically everything an American imagines French fine dining is, without the great food -- It's Gusteau's! That's why it's been rated best in Paris by Zagat for so long and is still so popular with Chowhounders. I love and respect the place, but any foodie knows that it has no interest food wise, even if it can produce a good chicken and a decent puff pastry. It's totally a place I would pick for a sophisticated business meeting or a negotiation, which I never do for Savoy, l'Arpège, l'Ambroisie, Rostang, etc.

L'Astrance has a surprise menu that is improvised -- that's how the restaurant works. So you just tell you like/dislikes/restrictions and you let them play. Your choice is 3, 5 or 8 course. And wine pairing or not. The idea is that they know best what was best on the market that day and what they feel like cooking. The lunch menu at l'Arpège (no offense, but there's no way any southern veggie plate has anything to do with any Arpège experience -- one is food and the other is art. It does not make it less expensive for sure, but I still rather skip 20 of those for a l'Arpège lunch): Coquetier « Maison de Cuisine» liqueur d'érable acidulée «4 épices» Egg Les gnocchis d'Alice à la sauge beurre noisette Gnocchis Botte d'asperges poêlées à la verticale à la citronnelle asparagus Petits pois «merveille de Kelvédon» au gingembre oignon «cheveux d'ange» peas and onions Pousses, carottes, navets, choux, aulx, radis aux herbes image du potager ce matin the day's vegetables Ecailles ou plumes... reflet de la gourmandise fowl or fish of the day Salers de la ferme Caldayroux été 2007 cheese (1) Corbeille de parfums fragrance desserts Don't know about Gérard Besson but you can ask them -- though it is probably too early. I am 100% sure that they don't have tourist buses each night, but I don't know how often that can happen. Only went for lunch which, as you point out, is a good way to avoid the problem.

I stayed at a wonderful B&B in Laguiole that had the same architect as Bras -- at night you saw the Bras spaceship on the mountain upthere and breakfast was wonderful. Can't remember the name but that's a good place to stay. Bras is unique and exceptional. I don't care about it, would not go back, but any foodie should have a chance to make his own mind. There is no way that I can propose an alternative. Plus, those are the last years of Michel Bras in the kitchen, and you like the pics and recipes. So go. Also let us know more about what you like and expect if you want other recs.

Went yesterday night as a stranger in town. Found it very annoying and mostly scandalously expensive. It's not bad -- even pleasant -- , but it's still low end, in a can indeed, food at fine dining prices and in a very uncomfortable setting. That looks like a good business, but why I should have spent some of my foodie time in Montréal here is beyond my comprehension. I'd much better go back to My Canh on Saint Laurent for a 8 eur Pho soup, way better, way cheaper, and at least I felt respected. I am revolted by the indigence of this place.

Comptoir is only the worst food. And maybe the l'Astrance rule is one month, or two, I don't remember. To me, the mere fact that I have to fight to get a table somewhere is reason enough not to go. There are plenty of other good restaurants -- to my taste, many are way better anyway.

It's the worst we have in Paris. I never remember, I think you need to call exactly three months in advance at 10am GMT+1, and redial, redial, redial.... You can also call the same day counting on last minute cancellation.

In Nancy don't miss the craquelines of Lalonde and go to the coverred market, Wolf le volailler in particular -- for restaurants, the Michelin is reliable. Also, go to Le Hall du Livre, an incredible place for books and CDs. In Troyes, don't miss the market either and the good pastries across the street from tha market. Skip Ma Bourgogne if I remember the name correctly. Both places are where my grandmother lives/lived, so I did not try many restaurants but I know there is good food.

I think you're talking about Asia Palace (assuming this is indeed les Olympiades). A great Chinese place for dim sums and rotisserie. But I am not aware that they would have a Pho specialty.

Thao Ly, rue Berthollet

I would totally emphasise l'Acajou. Also, if fancy is more a factor than good food, La Maison de l'Amérique Latine. La Maison Courtine can also work -- I went this week, and while I was not excited, it was good food in a 45 eur menu. And it definitely has some fanciness to it. Senderens can do it but it would require some discipline. What about Tante Louise or Marguerite? That would be my choice (Louise). Auguste also works. And Il Vino's menu including wine is at 100eur exactly. If they're in the mood, I had a suprisingly good meal at Le Petit Zinc recently. And also, I don't know if you're aware, at Gordon Ramsay's Veranda in Versailles. Vin sur vin if careful. Also, I will say it again, fancy affordable pleasant dinners in Paris are Chinese: Vong, Chen, Le mandarin de Passy, Tse Yang, even Tong Yen fit the bill. Even Lac Hong.

Well, as soon as I have sold Robyn's house Twice Seriously, I hope it will happen this year, and l'Ambroisie too. But those are crazy budgets, especially when one has the strange idea that they would like to go with their beloved wife. Fact is, there are few high end restaurants in Paris I am really excited about those two days, save those two.

It is an incredible report for an incredible restaurant. Reminded me why I am passionate on this topic. Thanks.

Not a big fan of the potato purée either -- I think this is a good example of a dish that requires the real Robuchon in the kitchen. But I would heartily disagree about the comparison with Thierry Burlot, which I think is very mediocre compared to the level of cooking of Ales. But sure la Table is a relatively casual place, and while I am very excited about the 55eur menu, I am not sure I would go for the 150 tasting. I mean, for that price, I can have the tastin menu at Gordon Ramsay's in Versailles.

Here's my Besson report: http://www.julotlespinceaux.com/2008/04/gr...-in-france.html Besson is as traditional as it gets. It's really good, but seriously out-of-fashion, and far from modern standards. At the same time, it's a food with a very high amount of skills inside and and thoroughly enjoyable. It should not be missed in season if you like game and truffle. It's not dazzling like Briffard's cooking can be and I don't have a value recommendation in Paris for dazzling food to this day. I would say that lunch at l'Arpège is the best shot at it, or Gagnaire if you like it, but we're not talking very cheap menus. Good lunch deals include, as I listed recently, Savoy, Rostang, Robuchon, Lasserre and Besson. None of those redefine food.

My Michelin has l'Astrance 270bc -- maybe bi is just the English version of bc. Then I have to ask where have you seen bc in your guide? Beverage will never be a cup of coffee in France. It will always mean wine. Indeed at l'Astrance it means sophisticated wine pairing, and at Robuchon it means a choice half a bottle of one red or one white (pretty decent but simple and one-size fits all). And of course the price gives you a clue. The places where bc means sophisticated wine pairing can probably be counted on the fingers of one hand. L'Astrance and Il Vino are the only ones I can mention. Zagat is nice but not very reliable. What it actually indicates is places that are easy or have a fan club. Even so, no Paris guide is comprehensive, it is always a selection.

The Savoy lunch is one of the best deals, because you have access to the whole regular ALC, or almost. Les Ambassadeurs is also a great deal in the same sense that it is the same kind of meal that you would have for dinner for much less -- i.e. not much pretentious and soulless food, but for much less. L'Arpège and Gagnaire also offer food that is not subpar in their lunch menu. (Also, at l'Arpège, they would let you split one tasting menu for two, which makes the places much less expensive, especially if you don't drink their ridiculously priced wines). At Lasserre you have the specialties and the opening roof for 75 eur at lunch. Rostang also uses cheaper ingredients but the same amount of skills, hard work and talent in his lunch menu (does not fit the bill in terms of eating little though). Gérard Besson also has a great value lunch menu at 56 eur and even less since it is sort of ALC (you can skip dessert or starter and you won't be charged) In my experience, le Cinq, le Meurice, Ledoyen and le Bristol do not give their best in their lunch menu. Neither does Taillevent food wise but as the place is not about food anyway... And if any of these places rushes you, let us know and we'll never go again (I heard such reports about Pierre Gagnaire and they don't surprise me). 1pm is the standard time for lunch, arriving after 1.45 or 2 is a bit late and some won't serve you. Most only open at 12.30, though the big 365/7 hotels (for Americans ) usually have larger opening hours.

May I ask where you saw that "bi" mention? bc is boissons comprises, which means wine, and sometimes water and coffee. It does not have to be house wine, which is rarer and rarer. For instance the menu with wine pairing at l'Astrance is 270 bc. But bi I just never saw.