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Roger le goéland

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Everything posted by Roger le goéland

  1. And Alimentum! Beats many London 1* (although now reservations one week in advance...) The express (twice an hour) takes 50min to get into London, conveniently at King's Cross which has many central lines (Victoria, Picadilly) to get you to the good places. Very possible (if tiring) to go for dinner in London and be back the same night. Don't forget the jumper as you freeze standing in KX waiting for the train near midnight. Living close to the station is cheap. I used to think Cambridge was bad but then I started travelling around the UK. It's pretty good! There is a bubble in "foodie" shops, like origin8 in the centre and that Italian deli (Massano's?) near Zizzi's, and if you speak Chinese Sesame has fantastic food (on the other menu). If by Asian you meant Indian then there are apparently some decent places but I have yet to find them. You can get decent enough meat from the market butcher (haven't tried any others), coffee online from Londinium or a similar "roast to order" place, there's a Tesco's and numerous "ethnic" and surprisingly well-stocked supermarkets (Korean, Chinese, Malay, Middle-Eastern). Two competing cheese shops, one on the market (with a wider range and more British cheeses, but higher prices) and one behind Trinity Whewell's Court. As for non-food factors, the presence of a well-heeled student population means classical concerts, opera, theatre are very cheap and sometimes good quality, and tehre is an arts cinema as well as two blockbusters-serving blocks. There are many pubs which serve delicious ales, it's quite a safe city if you keep out of certain areas, and the locals tend to be quite smart. In fact there's a company that keeps track of stuff to do for you: http://www.localsecrets.com/. Beware of the awful traffic due to the awful roads which were designed in the 1200s. Once you get out of Cambridge there are surprises like that pub up in Madingley. No sea though... [edited to add link]
  2. What about the place on the hill (A something, Askieri?) which serves Alouettes and other Nicoise stuff? It seems present in the Gantie, G&M, Michelin, Lonely Planet... Ah, Robert, if only you could have been 2 days earlier! Lou Pistou I did consider, but thought "no way they could compete with La Merenda" and then we spotted LPM. Will definitely try your recommendations on our next trip.
  3. No, had a meal there (conference) and it wasn't spectacular, hence my asking. Visited La Petite Maison and it was absolutely disgusting. Then again we did go for one of the set "saveurs". Maybe the 50 euros truffled chicken (per person) is worth it. "Pasta Basta" was more satisfying - fresh pasta and sauce. What it says on the tin. 8-10 euros each, would probably cost 5 times that in London. They even give you a block of parmesan to grate over your pasta. edit - beware that l'Univers only does one service and is closed Saturdays (so is La Merenda) so phone them up ahead of schedule and find out when it is. The food had the most wonderful smell and I am very sure it would have been the highlight of the trip.
  4. Is the Salle d'Empire in Hotel de Paris cooked for by the Louis XV?
  5. Tried Merenda. The daube provencale (arriving in just under 30 seconds) was just a daube, nothing special (and not quite enough sauce for the amount of bread given). I fail to see how this is different from any of the neighbouring places (who will give you more daube too) although the panisses were good. Tarte au citron showed hints of the chef's skill - the crust was a true work of art in terms of pate sablee control, the lemon was controlled and balanced and absolutely gorgeous. Wine nothing special. 24 euros. The waiter asked me if I wanted "an explanation" but I was starving and so said no. What did he mean? L'Univers tomorrow.
  6. Any recent recommendations within walking distance of the Gare Routiere? (more specifically halfway through the Rue de l'Hotel des Postes) We have 3 days... So far we have La Merenda and l'Univers on our list, as well as Fenocchio and possibly Terres de Truffes. Any bistros etc.?
  7. Indeed, not to mention that this business model (find talented chef, put in kitchen, rebrand to get customers through door), like big hotel chains in India, does help start up talent which WILL spend time in the kitchen.
  8. Well, the author literally accuses the food industry of using Heston etc. as promoters of "cheap irrational ingredients" which "generate generous margins"... Don't think it's Heston that got the local Chinese take-away to put MSG in the food... (mmmm, MSG...) Although his calling Restaurant Magazine's ranking of the "best restaurants in the world" as "a simple notoriety test with no credibility" was highly amusing. It is true that the best classical chefs don't really appear high in the rankings.
  9. Depends. At some places (Foliage, Alimentum) I feel fine even after a heavy meal. Some places (anything vaguely following traditional French style, foie gras etc.) leave me completely stuffed and sometimes feeling ill (and at the same time completely extatic) for a couple of hours (after which it goes away). Even with the enormous Midsummer House tasting menu, never had any problems. Part of the problem is that I continue eating even well past the point of being full whilst my partner usually stops when she is full (which makes it even harder for me because, well, you can't let an apricot tarte tatin with almond ice cream go to waste, it would be criminal! and then those damn petits-fours!) I've only been ill once (after a 2*) and the symptoms definitely pointed to proper food poisoning (2 days later, felt ill for a week after etc.). It was worth it though. Gluttony is fantastic. Also very interested to see what other people's experiences have been. And I hope the FD reopens since we intend to go in place of a May Ball (much better value for the same money).
  10. Your right about the Foliage lunch,absolute top quality for the price £28? ←
  11. I forgot the review, so here it is (2 choices for starts and mains, 1 for dessert): Amuse: vegetable crisps and tempura herbs/doughball. Would have been more impressive if you couldn't get those crisps (admittedly not as thin and not as salty) in Aldi's for 50p. Doughball more interesting but didn't really "work" for me. Bit too salty and impossible to bite into - you need to shove the whole thing in. Bread: two small slices of already drying bread served at the beginning. No top up even though I chatted with the waiter in French and so he knew that I'd need to absorb at least 1/2kg of bread with the meal as per our traditions! No excuse there - if the no starred Alimentum can top up bread the second you finish it for the whole meal, why can't Ambassade with its 2* and army of serving staff do that too? Starters: chestnut veloute: very soft, silky, very liquid. White truffle olive oil on top (but not as fragrant as the bottle I've got from Borough for a fiver). Little croutons which I guess contained some kind of goat's cheese. The veloute came in a cappucino cup. Paired with a "St Joseph" viognier from the Rhone valley. Mineral and fruity nose, standard viognier. Brioche and saucisson: a slice of cooked saucisson with toasted brioche and a red wine sauce. The bite I got was tasty but "sans plus". Nowhere near the excitement in the cooking that we saw in the "traditional" Aubergine (yes I go on about that place but that chef is fantastic). Wine: the red St Joseph. A tasty Rhone red. Mains: chicken: I've talked at length about the colour. I ordered it because the alternative was cod, which I've had a fair amount of this week. It was juicy and tasty (for chicken), on a couple of spinach leaves (?) with a white sauce I couldn't really identify. Two artichokes were grilled and placed on top - I mistook them for chanterelles! Paired with a perfumed Corbieres (definitely lavender! maybe my memories of childhood in Provence are playing up) which reminded me of an early 90s crusted port I had 2 weeks ago - same flavour profile without the sweetness. I quickly realised that was because the waiter poured the dregs - there was half a spoonful of sediments in the glass. Cod: remarkably flavourful. On a bed of coco beans. Can't remember what the beans tasted like. Served with the aforementioned Viognier. That was the better choice (and probably less lethal). Dessert: one choice: rhubarb tart with forest fruit sorbet and a rhubarb crisp on top. Tastes like the description. Coffee: bitter and stale espresso, although with loads of crema, as usual. I've stopped hoping for something decent from fine restaurants although I sometimes fantasize about sending these places a cheap grinder and a bag of properly (and freshly) roasted beans anonymously as a hint. Overall: not a bad lunch. It's a bistro, where you go for lunch during the work week if you are French, have your three courses, wine, coffee, pay the bill and go back to work (ok, this may be from times past). It wasn't a 2* experience. If you're stuck in South Ken and you need a light-ish lunch that will do perfectly. Just don't expect too much in the way of flavours.
  12. Point 2 - is great chicken supposed to be served part-raw? Some of the chicken breast was pink (like when you buy breast fillets from the butcher's, translucent pink). Guess we'll see in 2 days.
  13. Disappointing. I'm posting this review here rather than on the Ambassade thread because I feel that the "business lunch" and the tasting menu/ALC are very, very different animals. We were expecting less than full-blown amazingness of French skills. But apart from a rather awesome chestnut veloute, the food was the kind you could get in a good bistro. At those prices I guess it makes sense. But this is definitely not the place to be going for a "great value set lunch" - Aubergine is much better in that respect; should have tried Sketch! I did enjoy the wine but would have appreciated not having 1/2kg of sediment in my glass (he just poured the bottom of the bottle). We had much, much better dinners and lunches at Alimentum and that's just £15/£17.50 (and with the extra cash you can buy fantastic wines and cocktails). Alimentum is now the stick against which I judge restaurants' set menus. A table near us was having the TM - this looked fantastic, and so I will return, but not for the set lunch.
  14. Cheaper in UK than France - £120 (?) Tasting at the Fat Duck vs. 500 euros at the (now unfortunately closed) Auberge de L'Eridan or 400 and something at l'Arpege. Neither including wine. In the UK the price is more closely linked to the value of what you are eating. In France you also pay for the Michelin brand. My experiences alone (not that I got to visit any of the aforementioned restaurants).
  15. I meant Wareing. I was thinking "maybe I should go before he gets star 3 and then it becomes far too expensive and impossible to book". But I am a lot less tempted now. I think l'Ambassade is worth visiting just based on the amount of polarisation present on this board and between critics (AA Gill's review was particularly amusing). Maybe it will be another Hibiscus for me. We'll see.
  16. Booked at L'Ambassade. Review with photos to come on the relevant thread. Thanks for your advice everyone, I'm sure this thread will be useful to many.
  17. Absolutely agree! And it's Wareing, (perhaps) the next London 3*. I'll see if we can stretch budget. edit - however, looking at the menu: I find chicken to be an incredibly boring meat (those local chicken from the butchers' back when they were in FF where I grew up excepted, but I've not tasted that taste ever since not even at L'Atelier de JR), sea trout similarly, and I've had enough pork belly this year to build a whole pork. Whilst starter and dessert look good, that + the fact I can get wine and coffee as well somewhere like Aubergine will I'm afraid kill the deal. If he's cooking French he should include more interesting stuff! edit 2 - Hawksmoor? £20 steak & superchips, £5-8 dessert, £8 cocktail?
  18. Indeed but the lunch is too expensive - for that much we can get wine and coffee at some other places (Foliage, Aubergine...). Perhaps next year when I am a bit richer (if I'm still here). Ledbury... will have a look. I considered it before - thanks for reminding me the name. I really didn't like Hibiscus' style when I went. Looking at the menu it doesn't seem to have changed much (the style, not the menu). Down to: Ambassade, Foliage (depends if my friend wants to go again, and the fact it's in a hotel is a bit unpleasant, but it's perfect for the occasion), Ledbury, Sketch. Aubergine possibly. L'Autre Pied menu isn't as tempting. It's similar to what I can get for half that price in Alimentum. A good meal, but not as special as e.g. what I can expect from Sketch...
  19. Oh dear you've all unearthed names I've been meaning to visit for months, if not years (Sketch never had space in the Lecture Room whenever I popped by). L'Ambassade especially. It will be a tough choice partially influenced by who has space and the shorter tube route possibly. And Foliage... oh so tempting. So is Sushi Hiro actually, haven't had decent sushi in months. The Square I think I'll keep for a proper eating session (tasting menu?) since it is so highly rated on these boards. Please keep them coming
  20. Rather than start a thread, I thought I'd do a search, and bingo here comes a 7yo thread! I'm having lunch with a friend on Friday. We're hoping for a Michelin set lunch, not too expensive (£30-35 probably upper limit), and not too filling (since I have one big boozy dinner in Cambridge in the evening). Like Foliage (delicious and you don't feel stuffed), but we went there last time. I was tempted by Aubergine but last time I could barely walk afterwards and didn't feel too hungry in the evening. Any ideas?
  21. Here is an article from my new coffee supplier about it: http://londiniumcoffee.blogspot.com/2009/0...ts-time-to.html I agree - Starbucks would increase sales if they sold great coffee. Every time I'm in London I will actually arrange to go to Fernandez & Wells (sometimes twice in the same day) to grab a £3 ($6) cup of coffee and a £3.50 ($7) pastry, because they are gorgeous (and yet F&W has the worst seating in London). I have visited the Starbucks literally under my flat window only once this year, and it was because the person I was meeting absolutely insisted. Good coffee is not hard nor expensive to make - you just need a good bean (which as Starbucks you can get from helping improve your suppliers' operations much like Toyota does), a decent roast (not a BBQ), and enough coffee in the grind. What surprises me is that a company like Starbucks cannot grasp this. First, Schultz based his initial business model on providing great coffee to the masses, originally. So if he retains any kind of influence over the business surely he should know not to kill the goose that lays the golden eggs. Second, the whole method study/costcutting/etc. approach to recessions really isn't taught in leading business schools anymore (recent graduates perhaps you can check this is true?), so those HBS MBAs currently running the company should know better themselves. With companies like Dunkin' Donuts competing in the low-cost area, they won't last very long!
  22. Again feeling the pressure from team members we've wasted enough money to regret not going. At least one has agreed to come along next week to Ebi. It's next door to our BnB conveniently. So, I'll add to the thread, a list of places where NOT to eat if you are stuck in Derby without a kitchen: - Wokmania. Vile, execrable food served in a large church. Oversalted, bitter food, the nightmare Asian buffet impersonated. I pity the Rolls-Royce graduate intake whose welcoming dinner was held there. - Slug & Lettuce (no comment necessary there) - Balti Towers in Burton. Not so bad per se, just not worth the drive and definitely not worth the spend. But if you're on a budget, the Friary does a burger and a beer for £3.50. It's (just about) better than Spoons. Part of the "Scream" pub chain I believe. Coming soon, Ebi Sushi.
  23. Sat at the bar/kitchen for a post-opera snack. We thought it would be refreshing to have some proper food before facing the 00:04 from King's Cross. No chestnut and cep ("porcini") soup so we had to be creative and actually read the menu. Fried eel with red prawns was disappointing. A couple of slices of battered mandarins, the prawns themselves were small and one had become half brown. The eel was all of 4-5cm long. We are a bit worried - one of the cooks pointed out the prawn container to the chef, who took a large brown prawn out (bearing in mind those were cooked prawns) before putting it back in and covering the container with kitchen wrap. He took the container away. Could they have been off, or just a bit oxidised? Lentils with pistachio sausage were alright (the pear mustarda was fantastic) and boiled beef with green herbs, pine kernels and a little potato was also pretty good.
  24. I've never been to Tokyo but I'll definitely compare it to the one in Ealing (bearing in mind that this is the only decent sushi I've ever eaten bar a small - 1 table - place in Vienna on that long and huge food market)
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