Morgan_Weber

My apologies if my little rant came across as "cutting her slack". That was not intended. My main point is that I don't feel Barbecue of any sort should be expected to adhere to a certain formula that someone has in their head. Obviously there are formulas and traditions, there isn't just one . What makes it an awesome regional cuisine is the variation, which obviously makes it hard to compare 'apples to apples', especially when a style can vary so much even within its own region.

Thanks for checking this place out Bruce. You're pictures have me feening for some brisket. I'll have to drop in over there some time soon.

Kent, I think it’s obvious that you really, really like barbecue and that you are passionate and diligent about seeking it out. I also understand that you have certain guidelines and personal preconceptions about what makes proper, orthodox barbecue. I guess though, I don’t understand a few things about your approach. First, it is apparent that you left Austin early, in order to arrive at Snow’s several hours before they opened. This leads me to believe that you hung out for a while taking pictures and talking with the folks that were cooking and tending the fire. It blows my mind that you can talk with these people and visit with them about what they do, and then get on eGullet and just rape their product in a review. I would guess that an overwhelming majority of the BBQ joints don't go through their days hoping for a Texas Monthly review that puts them in the Top 50. Granted, at this point I’m sure the spots in Lockhart and maybe Luling, along with Mueller’s, and Coopers—they take the Texas Monthly yearly review seriously, but a place like Snow’s? Not in a million years. Most people didn't even know this place existed. She doesn’t stay awake at night, tossing and turning, mulling over her technique, wondering things like, “Would my brisket be better if I sous vide it for 3 days and finished for eight hours on the smoker?” She’s more than likely not toiling over different blends of wood to use in her firebox to impart the perfect balance of smokiness to different specific meats (maybe she does and I would be surprised). I have never spoken to her, nor eaten her barbecue. This is not to say that she doesn’t, in turn, take her barbecuing very seriously; she’s obviously been doing it for years. What I am saying is that probably to her, and most other small-town Texas BBQ joints, barbecuing is more a way of life. It is what they do on a day to day basis because it is in their blood. Although I’m sure certain things could be improved by the knowledge that a trained chef could bring to the table, a majority of places simply don’t approach it that way. They’re doing it the same way their parents and grandparents did it—maybe tweaking a thing here or there. The bottom line is that she didn’t ask Texas Monthly to stop in and try her cue, just like she didn’t ask you. She’s not going for a Beard Award and she’s not a CIA Alum, she’s simply doing what she knows how to do, come what may. You get so wrapped up in the technical aspects of BBQ that it seems (at least in your writing) like you miss what this ethnic cuisine is really about. I didn’t want to respond to your Snow’s review, but after thinking about it, and especially after reading her story, I felt like I needed to say something. I just don’t feel like she deserved some of things you wrote, even if you didn’t like her food. Now, I doubt seriously that she reads eGullet or will ever read what your opinion, but you need to keep in mind that words are extremely powerful and can do a lot of damage. I found this out the hard way and am now really careful of how I say things. You can express your distaste for something without saying things like “…the worst barbecue that I've had in recent memory. Anyway, just my thoughts, for what they’re worth.

Bruce, Have you tried Lennox on Harrisburg? The last couple of times I've been there, the ribs have been really good. Just wondering if you had an opinion about them? M

have you taken a look at the list of restaurants for this year? 1 more month to go before the list of restaurants and their corresponding menus are finalized. not too impressed so far. could i even spend $35 on a 3 course meal on a normal night at some of these places if i tried? dharma cafe, open city, hungry's???? i know it's for charity and all, but COME ON... the first day of restaurant week in NYC was like christmas day for me (only better b/c it came around twice a year). most of the top restaurants participated even if it were for weekday lunches only. how do you think a girl making $60K and paying $1200 in rent every month could afford to eat at craft, cafe boulud, eleven madison park, fleur de sel, gramercy tavern, and le cirque twice a year? ← Seriously! Why don't Houston Restaurant's get restaurant week. Dallas's is awesome. I don't want to eat at 3/4 of those places under normal circumstances or cheap restaurant-week circumstances. I don't understand.

Ha. No problem man. I can't believe it. I drove by Snow's in Lexington probably, once a month, when I was in college and never ate there. It was on the way home from Waco to Yoakum. I can't say I really even knew it existed. Shame on me.

Oh come on Kent, surely you've seen me mention my love of Burn's BBQ in Houston. It is awesome. East Texas style bbq. Ask them for the sauce on the side and make sure you take cash. Get the homemade sausage. Jscarbor and I were there a few months ago and the homemade stuff was similar in texture to Luling's--it has been several months since I've made my way up there though. They're mostly consistent too. I've only gotten burned their once. (no pun...) Happy smoking. M

Shouldn't take that much nerve...if it sucks, there is always the sink...

Have you tried the drink? Is it any good? ← Yeah, it is delicious. The syrup keeps well too.

Trend stories always make me suspicious, but maybe vinegary cocktails will soon be more common than mojitos. Anyone tried vinegar as ingredient? Any success with drinks less baroque than those given in the article? This three-year-old topic touches on the same subject. ← Robert Heugel covered this topic last year over at his blog, Drink Dogma. The new Food & Wine Cocktail Book book actually features his recipe for a Sidecar twist called, The Wreck.

Ate at Someburger (Studewood & 11th) yesterday at lunch. It wasn't bad and wasn't great. Looked like a pre-formed patty that went on to the flat top. I'm still trying to decide if it warrants another visit. Right now I'm thinking that if I was in the Heights, wanted a burger, and had the choices of Whataburger or Someburger, I'd get myself the latter. It definitely isn't worth the drive though.

Great piece Toby. Thanks.

Man, Moulton brings back memories. My family used to have Sunday lunch almost every week at Kloesel's Steakhouse in Moulton. The cook, Harvey Koesel, cut his teeth as a cook in the military. When he got out, he and his wife opened up Kloesel's. This was probably 30 years ago. With Heartbrand Beef opening up just down the road in Yoakum, Harvey now serves their steaks as well as his usual house specials. A flat-iron from Heartbrand will set you back $20. He usually cooks a great steak. Don't expect the sides to be anything special though. Their chicken fried steak is the best I've ever had. A Sunday lunch special which includes a salad, entree & sides, desert, and drink will set you back a whopping $7.95, although my parents told me a rumor that it might go up soon...lol.

Beaver's Hugo's is an upscale Mexican food restaurant that we in Houston are lucky to have. 5-10 minutes from downtown. Dolce Vita is in the same vein as Babbo in NYC. Their pizzas are IMHO the best in the City and everything is very reasonably priced. 5-10 minutes from downtown. Don't miss the cocktails and food at Beaver's. Just off of Washington Ave., on Sawyer. About five minutes from downtown. If you're in the mood for BBQ, make the trek up to Burn's BBQ for some of the best East Texas-Style BBQ in Houston. It is about 15 minutes from downtown, but well worth the trip. Bring cash though...they don't accept credit cards or checks. I've really been enjoying the burger's and Tex-Mex food at the Goode Company Taqueria. All of their meat is grilled over a mesquite burning pit. Skip the chain's BBQ though. There is better Que to be had in the city. Luling City Market just opened a new location about five minutes from downtown on Gray. They make great Central Texas Style BBQ. My wife and I especially like their sausage links and ribs. It is located at the corner of Gray and Matthews--five minutes from downtown. For a downhome southern breakfast that isn't short on calories, try The Breakfast Klub on Travis at Alabama. Located about five minutes from downtown. Their specialty is a plate of waffles and fried chicken wings. If you would like more suggestions, please let me know. These are the closest to downtown that I can think of within a nice price range. jscarbor, can you think of anything in this area that I may have missed? If it were me. I would do dinner and cocktails one evening at Beaver's and the next evening at Hugo's. Hit the rest for lunch or of course breakfast/brunch for The Breakfast Klub.

Allison Cook's review in the Chronicle. Congrats Dax & Bobby on some nice words.

Thanks for the update Bruce.

I've been enjoying the chilli that Whole Foods sells fresh. It beats the canned stuff that i've had. They sell it in bulk near the fresh soups.

Hmmm...epoisses at room temperature is already pretty runny. I suppose you could melt it, though you probably wouldn't want to emulsify it with the spirit--that might present some issues with filtering in the end. There's gotta be a way to pull it off... I like the idea of avocado-infused tequila...maybe with the addition of some lime zest? This concept opens up to so many possibilities.

Since certain cheeses have a significantly high fat content, could it be possible to infuse their flavor into spirits? Or would the already-present bacteria in the cheeses present a problem? I would assume that a spirit with 40% alchohol might kill the types of bacteria that are present. Off the top of my head: Epoisses and Bleu Cheese could be cool... edited for spelling.

Try the ribs at Lenox on Harrisburg--IMHO they don't need sauce. Try everything at Burn's BBQ. Try the ribs and link at Luling City Meat Market on Richmond (go for lunch though...it is more consistent). Thelma's is pretty good too, if you get the sauce on the side (she might charge extra for that, lol). I might get crucified for this next suggestion, but if you're up for a drive to the Woodlands, stop in at Rudy's. The last two times I've eaten at Rudy's (albeit two locations in Austin...one on New Years, and one two weeks ago), they have had the best example of what I think brisket should taste like that I have EVER had. They use oak for the smoke and the guy swore up and down that they didn't use gas smokers...not even to get the fire started. Both times I ordered the the 'extra moist' brisket. For more of a contemporary style of BBQ, there is always Beaver's Ice House off of Washington Ave. It is by no means a traditional BBQ stand and since opening last November or so, they seem to have really gotten in a consistent groove of making great food. Minus Luling City Meat Market, Rudy's, and Beaver's, most of the BBQ here is in the East Texas style. I'm just of the opinion that we do indeed have some good BBQ in Houston, it just has to be searched out.

As we could not get reservations at The Grove last night, we decided to go to Brasserie Max & Julie. This was our first trip--my wife and I with her parents. I can't say enough good about this place. Having eating again at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bistro two weeks ago in Napa, I was glad that it was fresh in my mind so as to compare the two. The space is extremely inviting, even having a coincidentally similar red and sage green color scheme to Bouchon. Obviously the fare is traditional French, and was executed extemely well. My wife and mother-in-law had the roasted salmon in parchment, I had the cassoulet (which included an entire leg of duck confit, two types of sausage, and pork belly), and my father-in-law had the roasted trout. Everyone loved their meal. It was the first time in a long time that we had tried a new restaurant in Houston and pretty much enjoyed every aspect. Of the three desserts that we split (baked apple with creme fraiche & ice cream, chocolate souffle, and the trio of house-made sorbets), the sorbets with fresh fruit and house-made edible bowl, was the clear winner. Also to note, is the wonderful wine selection with quite a few bottles in the $40-$60 range, but also climbing to the quite expensive level. Obviously, everything is French. The waitstaff was friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable (there was no, "Let me go back to the kitchen and ask Chef what that means"). We are excited about having Brasserie Max and Julie in Houston and easily rank it up there with our experiences at Bouchon.

Wouldn't you know it... Right after I posted, I called for a reservation...completely booked up. Alas, nothing to report.

Going to The Grove tonight for a full-blown dinner. Thoughts on the experience coming tomorrow...

I was flipping through Craft of the Cocktail this evening and came across Dale's version of a Sazerac, which blends Cognac and Bourbon. Being out of Cognac, I decided to try using the Laird's Apple Brandy as a substitute. I gotta say, it is quite tasty. 1 oz. Baby Saz 1 oz. Laird's Apple Brandy (7 1/2 year) 1/2 oz. Simple Syrup Splash of Absinthe 2 Dashes Peychaud's 2 Dashes Angostura I was out of lemons, so I used a blood orange twist.

Erik, Now that you bring it up, it makes total sense. I can't believe there isn't a sweet potato spirit on the market. I wonder if Sam knows of such a product? -Morgan