mogsob

I know next to nothing about Indian cuisine, but I know what I like and once I found Zaika Bazaar, I haven't gone for Indian food anywhere else.

Haven't had a disappointment in the UK even close to the monumental disaster that was my dinner at Craft (NY).

Best Meals: Roussillon (London's answer to Gramercy Tavern), Hunan (on a whim and Simon's suggestion). Wow Dish: Crispy Aromatic Duck at Royal China (first time I ever had this dish), Roasted Spring Lamb at Roussillon (also a first for me in England)

Ah, the cruel operation of the Invisible Hand at work (with some help from national tarrifs, I assume). If Beaujolais has anyone to blame it is themselves. They have cheapened their image and are not producing the quality of wine that is now coming, for example, out of the Languedoc or Provence. If you had told me 10 years ago that Coteaux would outprice Morgon by a factor of 2 in most cases, I would have thought you crazy. But that is exactly what has happened, and the producers in the south deserve all the credit. Before they start blaming the New World, they should take a closer look at home.

A truly sad moment. Bid was one of the few great restaurants near my home. We went for the first time the week after September 11th and were hooked. Splitting my time between London (mostly) and NY, we haven't been in some time and I'm sorry I missed the grand finale. I just hope Chef Matt stays on the Upper East Side and can create a place just like Bid. Compared to its peers (or those trying to be its peers), Bid produced better food, a better wine list, and a more relaxed setting at half the price.

It is not so simple to say "Red Burgundy" and get an answer. More than any other wine region in the world (especially when considering that it is only pinot noir we are talking about), Burgundy ranges from big, rough and tannic wines (e.g., Fixin) to highly perfumed, delicate wines (e.g., Chambolle) to big, long, deep wines (e.g., Vosne Romanee). Moreover, the structure of Burgundy, where a single vineyard has dozens of producers (each with a different style and interpretation of terrior), means that there is no such thing as a Burgundian style. I mean, when you drink a great Paulliac, you know what you're getting. Same for Napa, Piedmont etc. Here's my 2 cents. Go up to East 84th St. and Rosenthal Wine Merchants. They are primarily importers, but also do a retail business. There, you can sit down with (Will, most likely) and discuss what you like in wine (big, soft, long, perfumed, fruit, tannins, whatever). He can then recommend some wines to try (or one great wine). Going to Rosenthal is a unique wine buying experience -- you can get hooked quickly.

Spanish wines, still a great value, are beginning to rise in price considerably. That said, I've enjoyed two great wines that are widely available (as is the Pesquera that is the subject of this post, and also excellent). One, the 1994 Gran Reserva from Montecillo is a fine example of a Rioja from a very good year. The 1994 Gran Reservas were released last fall, so many remain. It was priced at $12-14 before the WS gave it 93 points. Now, it is more commonly found at about $20. The 1997 Alion is also magnificent and far more complex. At $25, it is comparable, in my mind, to $50-75 wines from France, Italy and Napa, but with a Spanish character that makes it more unique.

Where to begin? 1. The Lion King is better than you think, but not as good as the opening sequence leads you to believe. 2. Roussillon in Pimlico is wonderful and a fraction of the cost of restaurants of like quality (one Michelin star). They have a website. 3. Hunan is a must (thank you Simon!). As is Royal China (love the aromatic duck). 4. I have not been around that much, but Zaika Bazaar has incredible Indian food at a very reasonable price. 5. For traditional English fare (in no particular order): (1) The Guinea for steak and kidney pie, (2) Wilton's for dover sole, (3) Fortnum & Mason for tea, (4) Boisdale for haggis (ok, not really English but really good), and (5) Sweetings for lunch. St. John's is excellent and very British, but in a very modern way I think (but I'm just a dumb Yank, so what do I know?). Hope this helps!!

Christopher -- spot on! I was thinking GV when reading the original post (especially if you can get more of that Prager you had some time ago, although the Brundlmayer that was on this list last time was quite good also). GV is amazingly versitile -- the Prager was, quite unexpectedly, an absolutely perfect match for Chef's rabbit.

I have been to Cello several times, and yes, their wine list does suck price-wise (the Trimbach example is the most glaring point, and actually more expensive than at ADNY). But, it does have a rather good collection of Austrians and Germans, although the online list does not acurately or sufficiently describe the bottles in question. Cello, but for the overpriced wine, is a wonderful restaurant. Just assume you are going to spend a lot for a bottle, pay way too much for it, and just enjoy. Here are a few choices: Riesling Smaragd,Weissenkirchner Steinriegl,Weingut Prager 1998 $80 -- the equivalent of a spatlese in Germany, from one Austria's best Weingut Brundlmayer,Gruner Veltliner,Kamptal 1998 $70 -- probably my top choice and one of the better values on the list, gruner veltliner is one of the unsung white wines of the world and Brundlmayer is one of Austria's stars Riesling Kabinett,Graacher Himmelreich,Weingut Max Ferd Richter, Mosel 1997 $60 -- particularly good on a hot day, what could be finer than a Kabinett from a great producer? (perhaps the same bottle at $12 buck from the store) Riesling Kabinett,Selbach-Oster,Mosel 1998 65 -- also a good Kabinett Riesling Spätlese,Selbach- Oster, Mosel 1997 70 (slightly bigger, both in residual sugar and mouthfeel) Riesling,Jho.Jos.Christoffel Erben, Mosel 1997 60 -- depends on what this actually is, Christoffel is a great producer, but has some vineyards that are better than others, note that there is no reference to what the wine is (e.g., Kabinett Spatlese etc.)

Capsuoto Freres does indeed offer some very fine souffles. Pity about the balance of the meals they offer, which on my last visit bordered on inedible.

The best souffles in NYC, by far, are at Le Absenthe (an E 60s bistro). Only a souffle of the day, but they are really tremendous, with a pumpkin souffle I had last fall topping them all (save a Green Apple souffle in calvados sauce I once had at Napa in Vegas). A very, very good textbook chocolate souffle is at Etats Unis and, of course, the Four Seasons has wonderful souffles as well.

It is true that vodka should have no color, taste or smell. The difference is in the "mouthfeel." The difference is in the "burn" and in the texture. Some vodkas burn more than others, some feel thicker on the tongue, some are longer (like fine wines) etc. Or so I am told -- I hate vodka.

There are few cities on earth that you rely on getting a solid meal at just about any decent looking restaurant. Paris is one. Rome is another (and at half the price). To me, this is heaven - no reservations, no plans. Pure spontaneous gastronomy. That said, I did plan 2 dinners for our stay in Rome: Agata e Romeo and La Rosetta. Agata e Romeo has perhaps the best wine list I have ever seen (for my taste), and has more good values I can count. Many bottles here are far below retail prices in the states -- if you could even find them. However, A&R had the misfortune of coming after La Rosetta, which provided a truly stunning meal. We both had the Gran Misto di Antipasti, which turned out to be two separate servings, each including 5 or 6 different dishes. Simply put, this is Nobu (at its best) Italian-style. Innovative, unbelievably fresh and pure, and absolutely delicious. Let's just put it this way. Before that night, my wife did not like lobster, squid, octopus, shrimp and a host of other shellfish items. Now she does. Not only that, she declared a squid dish to be the best thing she ate in Rome. All this comes at a cost -- 40 euros per person for the antipasti alone. My advice is to eat a large lunch, come here for dinner and get the antipasti, split a pasta, order a great wine and pick up some gelati on the way home. You won't find a better meal in Rome, or perhaps anywhere else.

Can you really have any other kind at Aureole? I have had several meals there (all business, and none but the first by choice) and have never had an even remotely satisfactory meal. The service is competent, but only to the extent that food is brought to the table without being dropped. I can remember one laughable example when a dining companion asked for "skim milk" for his coffee, and was given "heavy cream." Moreover, the food lacks flavor, depth, and originality. But it sure looks pretty on the plate! There has never been a restaurant so undeservedly praised. The best thing Aureole could serve, in my opinion, is notice of closing.

The "best wine ever drunk" thread brought back a discussion I had with a friend some time ago about diminishing returns on wine after a certain price point. My theory, is that you need to pay a certain price for an excellent wine, with proper balance, good fruit and structure, and enough terrior to make it interesting. Today, I think that is $30-40 for red and $20-30 for white. Certainly, there are excellent bottles at lower cost, but those are the exceptions and generally found in so-called "up and coming" regions (such as the Languedoc). And, of course, you can pay more, but I believe that higher prices are due mostly to branding and limited supply. That said, most of the "best" bottles mentioned in the earlier threat (including mine) named bottles that would cost well over $100 retail. My question is this: would you bet your life that you would choose those "best" wines over a group of $35 wines?

Halleluiah, my brother, and welcome to the light.

Tommy, you are absolutely correct. I can think of several restaurants that would greatly benefit from the "Meyer" approach to service.

OK, I'm convinced. I need to try Babbo again. A couple of years ago, I had what was probably the worst meal of my life there. They stuck us (party of 6) in the back. My wife was lost in the back and the staff never even bothered to fill her water or wine -- we had to pass her glass to the front for refills. The food was no better (save for a mussels and blood orange starter that was fantastic). The pasta, lamb and fish were severely overcooked. When we complained, they said that's how Italians eat. Please. And I don't think they eat fish that is well past its prime either (and thus necessitating overcooking). That, and paying $75 a bottle for Chianti really soured me on the place. But, I can't shake the feeling that an early reservation on a Saturday night relegated us to the "B" team - both in the kitchen and out front. And, yes, everyone is entitled to one mulligan, even Molto Mario.

Any suggestions on where to eat in and around Plymouth, Dartmouth, Torquay?

Heh, heh. I'm liking this claim more and more. A friend of mine confirms that Jack Weinstein is known from time to time to request a table for one. EDNY -- here I come!

Hanover Square is indeed just south of Wall St. Bayards (and Harry's downstairs) are located in India House, I believe, which is in one of the few open squares in downtown NY. Glad to hear that Hanover Square is doing so well - the owner went to my prep school (and is Greek, BTW). Sole meuniere is a favorite, so I will have to get downtown to try theirs.

Perhaps we have a constitutional claim here. Solo diners are, as far as I can tell, a discrete and insular (seemingly by definition alone) minority denied rights afforded to others. Perhaps a class actions suit against some of the more high profile offenders would shake things up. BTW, the excuse that solo diners generate no income is pure BS. I often travel for business alone, and have racked up some huge tabs from wine alone -- a restaurant's profit center. And, if Wilfid's posts are any indication, no restaurant would lose money there either. Hey Shaw, how about dusting off those law books and representing us?

I am perhaps not the best person to answer this question, as I rarely eat more than 2 courses at any given meal. So I really like smaller portions, as I get to order more things. That said, everyone at the table was quite full and satisfied after 3 courses and 4 courses would have been out of the questions, at least for me. That said, the four course price is pretty reasonable as well. The only comparison I can give is to a NY restaurant, March. The portions at Roussillon are a bit larger than theirs (they also have done away with the starter/mains distinction).

Despite its Michelin-starred status (one star), I have not heard much discussion of Roussillon on this board. It is in Pimlico, around the corner from Hunan. In my opinion, Roussillon offers great value, especially when compared with comparable restaurants in London, New York or Paris. Roussillon is a somewhat formal restaurant, but very relaxed. Service is French, but more country-French -- very warm and accomodating. The room itself is minimalistic and there is no background music (a relief). Tables are well-spaced and service is attentive. We spent nearly 3 1/2 hours there last Saturday, and we could have stayed longer. This place truly caters to the consumer. The food: Amuse -- squid in its own ink with broad beans Starters - (1) green asparagus and morels sauteed together, grated cheshire cheese and veal jus, (2) purple artichoke, green pea, courget, cos lettuce and lovage cooked in a pot with bone marrow, light meat jus, (3) steamed white asparagus with creamed morel, (4) morel risotto, veal jus. Mains -- (1) grilled tubot, thick slices of carrots, raw young onions and isle of wight garlic leaves, simple jus, (2) dover sole "meunière" on the bone, capers and tender thin leeks, brown butter, (3) wild garlic crusted dorset lamb, seared spring vegetables; a pot of jersey royal potatoes. Desserts -- (1) Chocolate Souffle, (2) Lemon Souffle, (3) Tarte Tatin for two cooked to order. Wine -- Baumard Savennieres, Marchand Chambolle Petit Fours -- lemon tarts, chocolate truffles Simply a great meal. All the dishes were way above average and quite consistent. I had planned to share my wife's sole, but the lamb was too good to share. All of the dishes are roughly the same size, and you can order as many courses as you want. 2 Courses - £29.00 3 Courses - £35.00 4 Courses - £42.00 A final note for bread lovers -- the bread tray is loaded with approximately 8 different varieties, all baked on premises and all very good indeed.