mogsob

Berne's is decidedly not the best steak in America. It is the top steakhouse in the Zagat survey, which in and of itself is proof of its utter mediocrity. Berne's does have a fabulous wine list that has done much to cover up its average meat. See also, Angus Barn, North Carolina for more of the same. The best steak in America is at Peter Luger's. Trite, but true. As for England, I'm still trying to import some steaks from Lobel's, as I have given up all hope of finding anything close here. IMHO, the best steak outside of the US (note: have not been to Argentina) would be in Tuscany, where a great T-Bone from one of those giant white cows can't really be beat.

The difference between smoking and other related bar activities is that the by-product necessarily affects others. I hate tequila just about as much as I hate tobacco, but I don't have to taste and smell the tequila someone is drinking across the room. Moreover, my liver won't get pickled by the secondary effects of someone else's drinking. After going to California for a few weeks last year, I can see no reason why smoking should be tolerated in public places given the health risks posed by secondary smoke. Moreover, I find the manner in which most people smoke to be unbelievably rude. How many times has a smoker turned around to exhale -- to avoid the smoke blowing back in their face - so instead it goes right into yours. I know of no smoker who doesn't turn their head to exhale smoke in the face of an oncoming wind. Finally, there should be no debate about banning smoking in restaurants -- particularly on this board. Smoke interferes with the taste of food like no other substance I know. Last year, I was dining at Pre Catalan, and the diners to my rear were smoking. The woman kept a cigarette lit throughout the meal, held it over her shoulder just so the smoke would waft over my table and not hers. When I asked her to put out the cigarette, she feigned ignorance of English, French, German and Italian (not to mention hand gestures -- she was Japanese). So completely rude, and the smoke practically ruined a 400 dollar meal.

Forgot to add Rioja Crianzas. The 98 Montecillo is particularly good value. On a related note, I have never seen the allure of CDR (except for cooking, where it really shines) or, for that matter, anything from Ravenswood. These wines, in my opinion, lack balance and are overly tannic (CDR, including the much vaunted paralelle 45 and guigal) or too big for their structure (Ravenswood). I think there are much better wines to be had at this price.

Currently, I am drinking Val d'Orbieu's La Cuvee Mythique (4.99 pounds at Waitrose) and JJ Prum's Bernkastler Badstube Riesling Kabinett. Like Steven, I range all over the world for everyday wine, but more often than not I find myself buying wine from the Languedoc (generally Coteaux), Provence (Bandol), Loire (Muscadet, Sancerre), the Veneto (Valpos), Piedmont (Barberas), Germany (Kabinetts), Austria (GVs) and Southern Italy in general, which may be the most exciting region in the world right now. BTW, Steven, if you want to venture out from K&D, the Wine Shop on 1st/83rd has a truly remarkable selection at very fair prices (their reliance on WS as the standard bearer notwithstanding). Particularly in the 20-30 dollar range they are very strong indeed.

Steve P. -- Of your list, I have only been to Veritas. It is the exception that proves the rule. While thumbing through a lengthy wine list is a favorite pursuit (much to my wife's annoynace), I find that most wine lists are seemingly put together haphazardly, without much thought to which wines would be best paired with the chef's food. More critically, many wine lists seemingly pander to the lowest common denominator. How else can you explain the proliferation of merlot (and CA in general) on wine lists?

Agreed. But then again I am the consumer and consumers always are in favor of lower prices. That said, I think the days of the multipage wine list are coming to an end. A good chef should be able to stock a nice selection of wines that are optimal for their food. Personally, I would take an innovative list such as the one offered at Etats Unis over the tome at La Cote Basque any day. Surely the cost of keeping such a large cellar contributes to the high cost of the wine on the list (the more wine on hand for long periods of time, the greater the risk of spoilage).

Nothing like a blanket statement such as "California does not respect terrior" to get people up in arms. While I am not a huge fan of CA wines by any means, a recent trip through the Russian River valley found many excellent wines (mostly pinot noir, of course). While I can't speak for wine prices in general, La Vigneronne in London specializes in Languedoc wines and their current offerings are priced at about 30-40% less than NY where I also keep a home.

Living in London, the Languedoc represents some of the best value in wine, as exporting costs are low. The same may not be true in LA.\ The best Languedoc wines, such as Domaine de l'Hortus, Daumas Gassac, Mas Jullien, Grange de Peres and Domaine La Marfee are good value if priced under $30 (La Marfee, Grange de Peres, Daumas Gassac) or under $20 (Mas Julien, Domaine de l'Hortus). My guess is that California wines present much greater value in LA.

Nestia, you are absolutely correct -- and I am one of GT's biggest fans for exactly the same reasons you found it disappointing. I like restaurants that are not going to challenge my taste buds to accept new things, but I expect them to cook things better than I can. The joy of GT is in the details -- the finest ingredients, the perfect prep, the spot on cooking, the perfect service etc. That is to say things I cannot do easily at home, if at all. I like looking at a menu and knowing exactly what everything, more or less, will taste like. I like the fact that the food is not overly designed on the plate into towers or pieces of modern art. I like the fact that I never have to worry if my dining guests will find something they like on the menu. And after at least 50 meals at GT, I've never had anything less than top notch service (maybe tommy is a bit a pain in the ass). As for the fusion restaurants and those pushing the limits of good taste -- I know they can be great for some people, just not for me.

Steven, the only thing you are missing is the perspective of a marketing rep. I used to get the Newport steak quite a bit, and while I could be wrong, I think the rest of NY calls it a Delmonico or shell steak. From what I can gather, you have down the loin, the porterhouse, the t-bone, the bone in shell, and the shell. The Newport is the last cut on the loin -- or so my tastebuds have come to conclude. Any further guidance would be appreciated.

The 1990 Latour. Because all the wines you list are great and the Latour is the one most likely to be in the best condition.

My 2 cents: CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE Lucien Barrot Domaine Henri Bonneau Chateau Beaucastel Domaine de Beaurenard Les Cailloux Chapoutier Domaine Charvin Clos des Papes Domaine Clos du Caillou Domaine du Galet des Papes Domaine Grand Veneur Domaine de la Janasse Clos du Mont Olivet Domaine de la Mordorée Chateau la Nerthe Domaine du Pegau Chateau Rayas Raymond Usseglio Le Vieux Donjon Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe CORNAS Clape Noel Verset Alain Voge COTE ROTIE Chapoutier Mathilde et Yves Gangloff Guigal HERMITAGE Chapoutier JL Chave Delas Jaboulet Marc Sorrel

I am not a fan of California zins (I don't think I've had any non-US zins). I have found them to be the worst examples of the New World style and thus not made for my taste. However, I am always willing to reconsider! Can anyone recommend a balanced zin? Note: massive fruit does not make a wine balanced.

One of the best tips I once got on drinking young Burgundy is this: open the wine a few hours before you are going to drink it, decant it and put the stopper back on the decanter. Perhaps not a substitute for proper ageing, but a substitute nonetheless. Also be sure to use proper glasses to capture the nose correctly.

Steven, There are so many great Californian wines that are next to impossible to get outside of California. Limiting myself just to Russian River (Sonoma) Pinot Noir, off the top of my head I would say that it would be very difficult to find any of the following in NY (and if you did, it would likely be at 200-300% above retail): Gary Farrell Williams Selyem Martinelli (Helen Turley) Rochioli Davis Bynum Peter Michael Any NYC leads would be greatly appreciated . . . I also have a good friend who would love to know any NY/NJ store that stocks Turley zins.

Gordon, I'm a bit confused about your post. Are you soliciting opinions on the three bottles listed (in which case this thread has taken a definate detour) or are you asking how we each would spend $500 on a few bottles or bottle of wine? To answer the first part, I'm not a big fan of New World wine when compared with comparable wines from Europe -- the price/value ration is just way out of whack. As such, I would jump at the 89 Lynch, a great bottle at a fraction (I would think) of the cost of either the Grange or the Maya. I would really need some serious time to think about how best to spend $500 (other than going to Rosenthal and putting together a case of obscure Italians and Burgundies!). I agree with earlier posters that the Rhone Valley is perhaps the best value for great red wines -- a Clape Cornas perhaps from a monster historical vintage? Maybe Piedmont, for a Sperss historical bottling? One bottle would definately be a high numbered Kracher from Austria, though -- I haven't had one of the really rare ones. Too little time, too much wine . . .

Hey, cookandwife, why all the negativity? Is it born of ignorance or just plain malice? Zins make for a pretty good table wine, but the grape is incapable of reaching the heights of the nobler grapes.

If someone else was paying, the 8th. The combination of three (maybe 4) 3 star restaurants and Fauchon is unbeatable. If I'm paying, the 7th, so long as I can cross the street and go to Polaine.

Upon reflection, my worst meal was at L'Artisian bistro in Shepherd's Market. We had been several times as it is cheap and convenient. But this time the wine was warm, it took almost an hour to get our food (which was far below par) and almost 20 minutes to get the check. We haven't been back. Post-script: I can't stand being ignored at restaurants, particularly when I ask for the bill. I now have a new strategy -- I ask for the bill and if it is not brought within 10 minutes, I leave without paying. Sometimes they run after me (giving me a chance to scold them for ignoring me) and sometimes they don't (giving me a free meal).

I ate at Ouest a few months ago. We were early, and our table was late turning over, so we had a few too many at the bar while waiting. This all goes to say that I was somewhat less than sober sitting down to dinner and the wine consumed from that point on didn't help matters. That said, I do recall having a fantastic rib steak. Perfectly cooked, nicely charred and well seasoned. The beef was well aged and had both a deep minerally flavor lacking in so many steaks these days and a very firm texture (wet-aged fans need not apply). BTW, I am told that the service was horrific (e.g., pouring red wine into the same glasses used for white). The waiter also practically laughed in my face when I asked him if the Kracher beerenauslesse was numbered (both rude and displaying remarkable ignorance of the wines of one of the world's best producers).

Anyone who is selling you a line that Bergerac wines are comparable to first growth wines from Bordeaux is doing only that. These wines are very good, and comparable to ordinary claret, but the best wines of Bordeaux (including many non-first growths) are incomparable. The Bergerac wines simply do not have sufficient structure or length.

I used to live a couple of blocks from Pizza Paradiso (which does takeout btw) and thought it was the best in DC. But that's like identifying the best french bistro in Ethiopia.

Wait a sec. $209 for 2 cokes and 2 waters? I'm calling BS on this one. I've stayed at the Willard a few times and don't remember their minibar being any more expensive than hotels in its class, and certainly not 10 times as expensive.

Tanins are important to give a wine structure and length, but too much tannic acid will throw a wine completely out of balance. While food merely masks the presence of tannins (particularly those foods with a negative pH such as cheese), decanting the bottle in well in advance of drinking will "soften" the tannins significantly. I find that I decant most of the red wine I have at home these days for this very reason (and I am generally drinking wines from the south of France that are in current release).

Mourvedre 101: Few, if any Bandol wines (such as Tempier's) are 100% Mourvedre. By law, they must be at least 50% Mourvedre. Mourvedre is also one of the grapes used in Cote du Rhone and CDP (blended with Grenache and Syrah). It is also cultivated (sometimes in pure varietal bottlings) in Australia (d'Arenberg, notably) and California (Bonny Doon), but the country with the most Mourvedre in production is . . . . Spain, where it is known as Monastrell. If you like Bandol, I would also recommend bottlings by Gros' Nore, Pibarnon and Lafran Veyrolles.