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augustine

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Everything posted by augustine

  1. It looks so Ramsay but what about The Orient Express as a through away guess.
  2. the menu structure is not important! asparagus and foie gras soup glazed quail with potato puree and white truffles lime lemon and basil sorbet.
  3. Choose again! You couldn't find two more different restaurants than CP and Manresa - was it the four course structure that made you think of CP? ← [/qu the four course structure, plus the menu text was so sparing and delicious.
  4. Chez Panisse or Manresa Restaurant if I had to choose I'd say Chez Panisse.
  5. Piege making the blanc manger de truffe is on the Crillon website www.crillon.com
  6. The negativity I'm referring to is the negativity displayed by McGrath in the documentary; in and out of the kitchen, toward his staff and towards the world in general. I grew up in a restaurant, so I can't help but react in a negative way toward his management style. Moreover, to my mind, this negativity manifests itself in the technically adventurous yet experientially vapid food which he creates; as well as in the stiff, ritualised front of house experience. Food at this level is an aesthetic experience; and I'm criticising his food on aesthetic grounds; but at the same time I recognise that he's reached an aesthetic plane in his cooking. ← The negativity towards the rest of the world is little more than most have and certainly it wouldn't stop me eating in his restaurant, in the same way as I'm not going to stop reading Orwell because he had a few chips on his shoulder and particularly as McGrath has had the courage to flesh it out in such a public manner. The way he manages his staff is entirely appropriate and would reflect the general style of a lot of one and two michelin places, I can't speak personally about three michelin as I have never worked in one. Also I would say that it is no different, other than in language, than the atmosphere at the top firms of solictiors, accountant, bankers or as the story is told successful horse breeders, successful low budget airlines, the atelier of Karl Lagerfeld etc. Will you stop taking Ryanair flights because of the famously tense atmosphere of Dcotor Ryans Monday morning meetings? Staff don't thank you wasting their time with best practice policies if the management are sending them to the wrath of customers for selling them a poor product e.g. The Shelbourne. I would agree with you about the FOH, but I think that has more to do with their youth. I think technically he could be more adventurous and hopefully he will get the support to take it to the next level. You are not alone in your frustration. The IHF, RAI, IHI, Failte Ireland have all been on giving out but the truth is in terms of product we have been sold a pup for too long and these are the realities of the industry at this level.
  7. It's still available here I think. I seem to be one of the few that thinks Dundon came across as a prick, by playing up to the audience on an obviously difficult issue for McGrath. Thornton's response both at the time and in print is somewhat unfair given the lashing he received over the "No Experience Required" programme, not to mention chip-gate. I am of course biased as I think Mint is a fabulous restaurant doing something genuinely good, as opposed to Dundon doing nice food for the masses that (in my experience at least) tastes like it's been under the lamp too long. Of course, I do like Thornton's grub. Anyway... Indeed, and McGrath has garnered this reaction from day 1. Whether McGrath is arrogant or not is pretty much irrelevant to me, but lots of people seem to want to take a pop at him, chefs included. I think the old "it's a long way from this kind of fancy food we were brought up" is alive and well here. In Celtic Tiger Ireland spending huge sums of money on dinner is okay, just as long as it's steak and chips. sidoyle, I must admit I respectfully disagree with your comments overall, and I certainly wouldn't call the food joyless. There are plenty of other well-regarded restaurants in town that fit the bill there, but Mint isn't one of them IMO. ← I agree with your comments about Dundon. He is a terrific prick. He was there to give the slot a recognisable face, that's it. McGraths PR advice is poor if he is receiving any. What the hell is he doing an Image column given that the editor proposed it as simply an alternative to the Thorton column in Gloss. I'm not sure he will see any benefit from it. I agree with something Corinna said earlier about Oliver Dunne. He was right to keep the head down.
  8. With "good flavours", "flawless technique"and "excellent produce", what negativity are you referring to?
  9. Theres something genuinely evil about Etxebarri in that it keeps me from trying other places, I just keep wanting to go back there...I see some updates on the menu, so Ill just have to back once again. ← I understand. The desire to return, after three separate dining experiences last year, is still incredibly strong. A plate of garden vegetable with a light emulsion in September stayed with me throughout the winter. I am still cross for missing the becasse.
  10. A bit bizarre considering Thornton’s media profile has been much higher than McGrath’s over the past year. Thornton goes on to say that he doesn’t like McGrath’s food, as if this is enough reason for Michelin to ignore him. Dylan McGrath, for his part, seems determined to lose friends and alienate people. There was a big spat on a TV chat show when McGrath, Thornton and Kevin Dundon walked out like the latest crop of three tenors and McGrath (the least TV savvy of the three) did himself no favours by coming across as completely arrogant and charmless, saying that he got the star because he deserved it and leaving out all the usual humble begging and scraping that plays out so well on TV. The documentary on him airs tonight. Oliver Dunne of Bon Appetit is quite sensibly keeping his head down in his elegant McMichelin restaurant in Malahide, although he did disingenuously comment that Mint getting a star was an added bonus for him (he worked there before McGrath), and it was like getting one and a half stars. ← Even if it is all for PR, it's embarrassing to watch. McGrath may have had justification for feeling pissed off with Dunne, Thorton and Lewis all questioning his star. It is also dissappointing giving the huge support Chapter One got from the public in general prior to and after recieving their star and the support Thorton has been getting throughout various hiccups and problems in the past few years. The begrudgery of the Irish is unrelenting.
  11. There would want to be more than just a tentative link between Bono, Mr Crosbie and MPW to make this something worth getting exciting about. Drop the debt was truly worthy, getting MPW to cut the ribbon isn't. Anybody see Doorley's review of the Capella's restaurant in Castlemartyr. Lots of things went wrong but he sums the experience by saying he will have no problems making it his local, as it is close to his home. Shocking. I can't find the review online to add the link and it was thrown out in the bin, how many times?????, so quoting is out of the question. Doorley along with his other Spar and Centra buddy ,Ballymaloe, are creaming it from endorsements. Is there a critic worth reading in Ireland. Trevor White's review of Kevin Throrton at his Portobello restaurant for Food and Wine was the last great restaurant review I can remember in this country, but would like to be proved wrong. Indeed that very meal may be the high point for the Irish culinary scene in the twentieth century. A great meal and excellent review. If the Dubliner never existed would White have returned to reviewing restaurants after his bit out foreign? Would White have pushed the culinary scene beyond it's current quagmire? Is the Dubliner magazine to blame for the excitement created by tenatative links between bono, crosbie and MPW?
  12. I'll second The Greenhouse. Stunning recent lunch and if you have a mind for sweet wine ask for the ice cider.
  13. What a great place. I had been planning to go there after all of your wonderful reviews and so went out there for Sunday lunch. Felt slight groggy after a long night at Dax so mana from heaven was that potato puree. We tried about four of the main courses and nearly all the deserts. The sausage was perfectly cooked, the gravy like marmite, the chasseur was indeed classic and the beef pie could have done endorsements for the Board of CRH it was so rich. The deserts were things of great loveliness. It is a place that is as generous with detail and intelligence as it is with it's prices. I am going Saturday night and promise a full review.
  14. Have nothing positive to contribute except on my last visit the sommelier told me that he was not responsible for the wine selection, they have centralised the wine buying and selection is made by a sommelier in the States. I'm glad he or she is far away as it is a shockingly poor excuse for a wine list. Very cross as I left the place feeling like a sucker. You are absolutely right Corinna a very good grill would been at the least expected. That restaurant wouldn't last through opening night in the States but apparently it's fine for Dublin. On a funnier note one of the names on the original list to take over the kitchen was Johnny Cook.
  15. Aya wouldn't be able to compete with the onslaught of Yo Sushi as it arrives from London on a piggy back from Abrakebabra but the Four Seasons, the luxury hotel group whose own restaurant portfolio includes La Cinq, The Grill Room and Varanda have decided that Aya is to fulfill its restaurant outsourcing needs in Dublin. Joel Robuchon was it's chosen partner in New York. Are they taking the piss? The Four Seasons in Dublin is one of the groups most profitable properties. It has one of the best wine list's and wine service in Dublin. Small but beautiful and nicely executed. Now sadly it is getting into gimmick territory with a terrible, terrible Japanesse offering. Nobu, Spoon, Atelier, Ramsay, Craft, MARC. That's what ohers get. The decision paints a dreary picture of dining in Dublin. After the food and beverage product at the new Shelbourne, it is the most disappointing event of 2007 in Dublin. Two opportunities gone.
  16. I agree completely ljr. Mint is our WD 50, our La Broche, our Greenhouse (without the great wine list). Lets hope Cafe bon can get as good as Cafe Boulud (When Carmellini was still there). Booked and looking forward to it. I remember AA Gill's absolutely stirring review of Club Gascon when it first opened. I left that Thursday for the South West of France. I joined a Michelin brigade and spent the next six months celebrating the cruel compression of a reality bent on achieving a level of detail which is an abhorrence and waste to the lives of most everyone I'll ever meet. In general critics are not related to a chef’s success but they can help at different periods of their life cycle. Mint doesn't need LOSullivan'. But Mint does looks after it regulars, the locals and anyone who shows an interest in food or wine. That was Mr McGrath's only mistake. He presumed LOSullivan was interested. Mint is the best thing to celebrate about this year. But the message to anyone reading her review is that hospitality should be anodyne and impersonal. If I had read her review then rather than now I might have ended up working at a Quality Hotel.
  17. I recently had some Niepoort's Tiara which I think may be a world beater when it comes to complimenting spicy food. The Tiara started out as a portugese Riesling but I think it has ended up in pinot blanc slightly gewurtz territory. Nobody with me enjoyed but I got really carried away with it, perhaps it was the balls in trying to produce a portugese riesling.
  18. Chawkes is a Clonmel classic. A pub not to be missed. Chawkes 3 upper Gladstone street, Clonmel, Co.Tipperary. P:+353 52 21149 Sean Tierney's 13 O'Connell Street Clonmel Co Tipperary A pub also worth a mention. There is nothing worth recommending in terms of restaurants. Chez Hans in Cashel is about the only restaurant of note in the region. The food is well executed and locally sourced where possible. I've had good meals there but the wine list is poor.
  19. I am getting worried about the way in which atmosphere or "craic" is such a feature of this thread about Thortons. Is there not enough craic in the pubs around Portobello and Temple bar? We have a situation where two of the three best Irish chefs in the world are trading their craft abroad. Cathal Armstrong in Virginia, Richard Corrigan in London and thanks be god, Dylan Mc Grath in Dublin. How long McGrath will stay is uncertain. He has already being saying that his decision not give a side of vegetable has left some customers upset, a truly rediculous reaction after tasting his starters and amuse. If he goes he wouldn't be back. I remember speaking to Corrigan about 8 years ago in Cloyne and he laughed at the notion of returning. The Mill does not count as a return. I recently had canapes at Thortons. It was my fifth visit for canapes. Sea bass, grouse, goats cheese, mackerel and duck all real successes as canapes, foie gras with almonds not so. I also had a cheese board which had some excellent two year old comte. I go for the wine list. The canapes are just a bonus. That I can get a bottle of wine served perfectly, from a list that has some great offerings works perfectly as a concept, as long as you remember that canapes are not for filling up but rather to start the enzymes working. I don't think Thorton's is the best restaurant in the country, not even top five. It lacks maturity in the front of house and the food is often good rather than great, but what has worked for me is the canape and wine offer. Craic it isn't but if I needed atmosphere to make a bottle of burgundy work I would be my neighbour's slave. I'll miss my canapes.
  20. What a cool evening and told like VW ad. Well done.
  21. It is funny I thought the exact same thing about Gillies when I seen him on that dreadful, dreadful, dreadful, market kitchen. He is Ramsey's mini me. I have also lost sight of what the main aim of the show is, specifically around the whole 'regional' element. Why do the chefs have to cook something from their region, if they are cooking for the French. I doubt the French dignatries or chefs are going to comment on ' great examples of central England ingredients' or ' excellent sourcing from the South East'. I am sure what makes them 'great' British chefs in their respective restaurants is the food they cook there, which I doubt is all based on the terribly cliched 'local ingredients' nor is it particular recipes to that region. Is the regionality of dishes and ingredients still as important this time around?? I think the judges are not sure of the criteria, whereby one week they are praising Sat Bains forward thinking and modern cuisine as really what they are looking for, whereby the next week getting all excited about some other chefs crab cake and mayo. Sorry to ramble on, but I think I am missing the point? ← [/quote I agree with all of the above. I don't see the point of the show except to say that it is always nice to watch good chefs cook. I can't see how the chefs and other guests will be enthralled though. On the night there will be dozens of restaurant serving top quality British ingredients in Paris. The most British dish in Paris that night will be Pacaud's "Feuillantine de Dublin bay prawn , sesame et sauce curry".
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