rdailey

I know that the pork belly is one of his "signature" dishes. Not sure about the foie. I've only eaten there once and only knew about the pork belly's popularity beforehand. I must caution you, if you order the foie and pork belly in the same meal, that you order lightly for the others. Both dishes are extremely rich and marvelously fatty. Enjoy!

Welcome to the neighborhood, Mike. I was at Fifth Floor in January and had a fantastic dinner. Very elegant, not too stuffy, quiet with professional service. The food was quite rich, but delicious. At times the food was a little over complicated (a critique I hear often about Fifth Floor). I'm reminded of a 2-way foie gras dish that had an incredible sauteed version with bee pollen alongside a cold preparation with Citron gelee which was far too tart. That said, the Niman Ranch pork belly poached with truffles, crispy skin and a truffle jus was magical. The scallops served with a boullibaise sauce, tapioca, and crispy chorizo was also quite good. My companion's Lobster "Cappuccino", which consisted of a lobster broth emulsified with chestnuts poured over prawns and sauteed lobster, was also highly enjoyed. Unfortunately I do not recall the wine selection, but I do remember we had some delicious riesling and syrah selections by the glass. My companion and I really enjoyed ourselves. The service was so accomodating! I definately want to return. I also remember that it was middle of the week and it was about half full at about 8pm. The bar, which you can have dinner at, would be a great place for solo dining. As for the chef's tasting menu, it was really just a 5-course pre-set selection from the ala carte menu that night. They offered wine pairings with each course as well.

One other item of note, my mother had a glass of the Merus Cab Franc that is being bottled specifically for FL and PerSe. It was a heavy fruit bomb, that seemed much too young, but would be lovely in time. I thought I overheard the waiter say that Keller had a stake in the vineyards as well. Apparently the bottles can be purchased at the restaurant for $140. It was interesting and I plan to follow up...

My parents are not big drinkers and I was going to have to drive back to Marin at 1am so I was trying to drink lightly. As well, we had 2 glasses of Schramsberg sparkling wine before being seated. Unlike what I have heard about Per Se, FL still does not offer half-glass tasting pours. Since I did not have the chef's tasting menu, I did not find out if they had a pre selected wine pairing for it. As on previous visits, our sommelier quickly offered a special wine pairing with the foie gras course. He suggested the 2001 Selbach-Oster Auslese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr by the glass. Its delicate sweetness stood up nicely with the foie gras. I told our sommelier about the incredible 1999 Bonnacorsi Pinot Noir that they had poured for me on a previous visit. Unlike many Cal Pinots the Bonnacorsi is much closer to a mineral-tasting Burgundy. Unfortuntely they didn't have any more Bonnacorsi, so instead offered a 2000 Chambolle-Musingy from a producer which I can't recall. I plan to call FL later this week to see which one it was. The sommelier offered more suggestions with our cheese and dessert courses, but we had had enough for the evening. I have another reservation in a few weeks so the sommelier said that he would put together some special pairings for the menu that evening which I am looking forward to seeing what that means...

Thanks. It was quite an honor to finally see him "in action". Although I must say he looked tired. It may have just been a long day, but I can imagine the struggles with the Per Se fire and getting FL reopened has aged him quite a bit... On the other hand, Laura Cunningham (the GM) looked beautiful and sophisticated as always.

I had the good fortune to dine at French Laundry last Friday. I had offered to take my parents, who were going for the first time. There were three menus offered, the 9-course chef's tasting ($150), the 9-course vegetarian($125), and the 5-course dinner($135).We had a brutally late 9pm seating, so we arrived about 20 minutes early to enjoy a glass of sparkling wine in the garden. I saw many changes to the grounds including the removal of the huge tree that hung over the entry patio, the small planted area near the door was also gone. A new building housing offices and wine storage has taken up some of the garden as well. It also seemed that they had new chairs for diners that were much more comfortable than their old ones. We were offered gruyere gorgeres while we waited. Unfortunately, at 9:10pm the hostess said, "We apologize for the delay in seating, some of the earlier seatings are having a VERY good time." I assumed this was code for, the guests at your table are taking too long and you're going to have to wait until they leave. She offered us complimentary refills. Soon 9:30pm approached and we began to get irritated, it was getting really late to sit down to a 3 hour meal, but thankfully we were finally seated. My parents do not have the appetite they once did and were only ordering the five course, so I did as well. Although, it became apparent that due to the delay we were to receive several extra amuse-bouche. I saw a table next to us order the 5-course dinner and not get anything "extra" but the traditional salmon cone. Also of note, Chef Keller was present and I watched him delicately slice a duck breast. It was amazing to see that he was doing a whole lot more than just overseeing, but actually was really cooking. Here is my dinner as I recall it: "Bacon and Eggs" This was the first "extra" amuse we received immediately after being seated. A tablespoon with a poached quail's egg in beurre monte and topped with brunoise and bits of Hobbs bacon. A delicious and creative first bite and a Keller classic that I had not had before. Salmon Cornet Another classic that is always delicious. My father who does not care much for salmon loved and wanted 10 more. ??? Apologies, unfortunately I do not recall exact ingredients of the next amuse. What I can remember was that it was a thinly sliced clam place atop a yuzu vinagrette (it resembled more of a foam) and topped with a delicate daikon and cucumber relish. Sauteed Moulard Duck Foie Gras with Santa Rosa Plum Sauce and Pickled Ramps Of all of the foie gras I have had, I can easily say that no one does it better than the French Laundry. Pan Roasted "Noisettes de Lotte" with Butter Braised "La Ratte" Potatoes, Chanterelle Mushrooms, and Lobster Vinagrette This was a very rich and earthy fish dish that complimented the monkfish perfectly. There was beautiful lobster roe powder sprinkled over the top. The fish was cooked exactly right. This was only one of two choices for the fish course. Breast of Liberty Valley Duck with Poached Bing Cherries, Fennel Marmelade, and Sauteed Moulard Duck Foie Gras I know I had the foie gras for my first course - I blew it. My parents had ordered the lamb, which was the only other meat choice and I wanted to do something different. I just didn't see that the it came with the foie... but I really didn't care at that point. The waiter even joked with me, "You can never have enough foie gras!" Then went on to explain that the restaurant goes through 60-70 pounds of it each week. It was great with the poached cherries, but the breast was a bit chewy and disappointing. White Peach Sorbet with Candied Kumquats and Lemon Verbena Soup This was another "extra" our table received and thank goodness! (In the past I have not received a sorbet course when having the 5-course dinner.) FL has always served the best sorbet courses and this was no exception. After the heaviness and richness of the previous courses, it was clean, refreshing and perfectly balanced between sweet, sour and acidic. Andante Dairy "Crottin" with Heirloom Beet and Perigord Truffle Marmelade A mild goat cheese that was heated placed atop the beets and a small micro cilantro salad. Tasty, but lacked something. My father was fortunate to order another cheese course worth noting - Roquefort placed on top of a Vidalia Onion custard and served with Medjool dates and a 50-year old sherry vinagrette. This was incredible and my father's favorite course. The dates exploded with flavor. "Coffee and Doughnuts", Praline "Creamsicle", and "Strawberry Shortcake" We shared all three offered desserts, which are Keller classics. The nostalgia factor is what keeps the coffee and doughnuts on the menu. The cookbook really seems to have gotten the classics stuck on the menu. The Creamsicle was a praline ice cream coated with chocolate, served with candied hazelnuts, hazelnut dacquiose, and a warm honey and cinnamon soup poured around everything. The strawberry shortcake was an unusual composition that included a creme fraiche cake, marscarpone ice cream, strawberry gelee and a sauce of honey and 15 year old balsamic. Mignardises A vanilla creme brulee for mom and maple syrup panna cotta for the men. Well prepared but nothing exciting about these. The macaroons have gotten bigger, but are still as scrumptious. There was also a small plate of forgettable chocolates, jellies, and wafers. However our waiter offered us hand made truffles, that were much better than the petit fours, made with peanut butter, caramel and Earl Grey tea. Overall a fantastic dinner that included relaxed, well paced, first class service that went out of its way to please. Our young wine steward was enthusiastic and paired an amazing auslese with the foie gras. A decadent 2000 Musigny was poured for the fish and meat courses. However, twice our food was at the table prior to our wine and we had to nudge the wine staff to get the wine to the table quicker. This complaint coupled with the lengthy wait for the table, I'm sure would be considered major flaws by more decerning diners. However, I feel the other elements of the meal more than made up for the faults. There were fewer choices on the dinner menu than I have seen in the past and I suspect this is related to the lengthy closure of the restaurant. Let me know if I can add anything further... Edited for spelling...

This was really my point in a nutshell, FG. It was certainly the first time I have seen someone call it flavorless. I believe it is Keller's intention to offer a fun, thought provoking, and fresh tasting amuse to begin the meal, it is not meant to be mind blowing. Since it something he offers every diner before a long meal, I imagine its subtleness in salmon flavor is somewhat intentional. I have heard that if a diner is a vegetarian or does not care for the salmon they will substitute with a version using red pepper, which sounds delicious as well.

This comment also seems very unusual. Every report, review, or comment on the salmon cornet I have heard or read, has been favorable. As well, the two times I had one, I thought they were tremendously flavorful. Considering it is a preparation that is done every single day at both restaurants, I have a difficult time believing that the particular cone you had was inconsistent with all of the other comments I have seen. (Although I'll recognize it is theoretically possible.) The fact that Keller opens every meal he serves with this signature canape should be testament to the cornet's perfection in flavor, texture, and creativity.

xyz123, if you have a complaint about service or food, it is to the restaurant's advantage that you speak up. There is no way restaurants could improve without feedback. The success of any restaurant, regardless of its stature, depends on it's customers approval and if its faults are not mentioned, they cannot be corrected. It sounds that you are accustomed to dining in fine restaurants, so you are used to having your every whim catered to. You know that receiving morels with dirt in them would be immediately corrected, and you would receive evn more special attention with perhaps a discount to your bill, more courses, or complimentary wine.

jshufelt- Great post. Definately helps get me pumped up for my dinner there next week. I notice that you did not mention any canapes (ie gourgeres, canape soups, etc) or extra desserts (pot de cremes, creme brulees, etc) as they have regularly offered in the past. I have not been there for lunch before, is this common?

I have some upcoming reservations on June 11, I will try and give a report. I managed to get through the day they started taking reservations again. I did drive by around May 15 and noticed that there still seemed to be some minor construction work going on. Not sure if it was for work on the road or the restaurant.

With due respect in return, I think singling out Ferrer with a BLECH is a little harsh considering ALL of these major sparkling wine houses in the valley really are the same tourist traps and offer extremely similar wines. I'm not sure what your bias is, but I would put Domaine Carneros, Domaine Chandon, and Mumm all in the same category. When I was at Mumm last Friday, I had to wade through two full tour buses that were unloading and loading. As well, I nearly gagged on their awful Blanc de Blancs and Brut - only the special bottlings were decent as is the case at Ferrer. However, my recommendations were based on the views, staff, tasting rooms, and whether or not they had some decent sparkling wine. They are all decent enough places to take out of towners.

I always enjoy a morning at Gloria Ferrer if you are going to come up from that direction. The hillside patio has beautiful views of Sonoma Valley and the sparkling wine is quite good. Also, I was just at Mumm for the first time the other day and thought it was nice as well. They actually pour tasting flights, which I have not seen before at a sparkling wine facility. The location is close to Silver Oak too, if you do plan on going there as well...

I live in the area and would say that I rarely come across "California cuisine", as you say. California cuisine is really a philosophy that was started by Alice Waters and friends. In a nutshell, it calls for using the freshest local organic purveyors. This philosophy is applied to various types of cuisine (ie French, Italian, etc). Despite the good French and Italian food you have in Chicago, I wouldn't miss the chance to eat at Tra Vigne, Bouchon, or Bistro Jeanty - all of which apply this philosophy. Considering this, go to Dean & Deluca or Oakville Grocery, arm yourself with plenty of local specialties like salami, foie gras mousse, cheeses, breads, olive oils, fruit, and of course wine and have a picnic at one of the quieter wineries. Enjoy the trip! Edited for grammar...

FL has always been extremely accomodating to diners and allow them to mix and match courses as they wish. As Russ says, they actually seem get happily excited when you make changes. The last time I was there, there was a braised short rib on the tasting menu that wasn't on the 5-course menu. I really wanted it, and when I asked, they said it was no problem at all. They even offered to give me more short rib than what was being served for the tasting.

Blanch, split in half, clean out inner choke, then char slightly on the grill... also make a nice homemade lemon garlic aioli to go with it.

How often do you think would one need to go to FL or Per Se to be considered a regular? How do they distinguish the regulars when they call in to make a reservation?

People in this country should spend 4 hours over dinner more often. If you consider prep and clean up I rarely can do it in less than 3. 4 hours at FL and Per Se goes by really fast. Come to think of it, my trips to FL have been only around 3 hours, am I doing something wrong???

I noticed recently on the FL website, that Raynaud and Keller have also begun offering the Point line at Bergdorf Goodman in NYC. I assume this was to coincide with the opening of Per Se. The line is beautiful, but extremely expensive. The "oyster and pears" type bowl was around $65 each!

Each time I was there, Frog Hollow Farms retail store was selling coffee drinks and croissants with their nationally distributed line of jams. I was making the point to Marie-Louise that the Marketplace was not renovated for "the farmers". It is a developed piece of real estate filled with RETAILERS not farmers. I'm not sure what criteria they used in filling the spaces, but I would venture to guess it required a whole ton of cash up front to get in - much more than your average farmer can haul in. Unless, of course, you are in the bay area and endorsed by Alice Waters. Most of the farmers I know of don't wear overalls or ask to be called "Farmer Al".

I hadn't heard about the Cannery as I try and avoid the really touristy areas. I guess that the building owners want to see all of the spaces leased, and if that is what the tourists and customer base is wanting, more power to them I suppose. What I really wanted to see was something like Pikes Place in Seattle, only smaller. That looks like culinarian's dream... I must also agree with Marie-Louise, that renovating the Ferry Building was terrific, considering the shape it was in. As well, they could have done WORSE things than leasing it out to a bunch of food purveyors (there aren't any farmers in the Marketplace per se).

You are correct Gary. I was referring to the Marketplace inside the building and Niman Ranch is not inside. I was trying to make the point that certain purveyors have become large operations with big marketing machines despite the fact that they continue to be thought of as simple ranchers and farmers. (Does this make sense?) I think Hest88 explained it better than I did, by just saying it is too upscale. It feels like walking through an expensive art gallery. Its not that I don't like shelling out money for good food, but I like to be practical and that is not really the place for it. I would have much preferred a large everyday farmers market with butchers, bakers, and fishmongers. I believe you may be right Gary about the outside farmers market and the "secret handshake". From what I understand is that the market is a very political and those that run it, rule with an iron fist.

Wow, this is quite the lovefest. I hate to spoil things, but I suppose someone has to be the party pooper... Frankly, I have not really enjoyed my visits to the marketplace. I think my expectations of how it would ultimately turn out were much higher. I hardly think it is worth getting up in the morning and bowing to (I save that ritual for the French Laundry). First, it has a real mall-like atmosphere, which is a bad start. Second, I can buy most of the retail offerings at my local supermarket. Lastly, and this is where I become most cynical, it all seems a little too slick and over-marketed. Most of those purveyors started off as small, family-run, artisan businesses, that now look a lot more corporate. Now, this is not to say that the marketplace doesn't offer some quality products in its shops and couple decent restaurants. As well, the location is beautiful and I would send tourists there for a visit. However, as a local and after the first couple visits, I've lost interest. I think there are options just as good as Niman Ranch, Frog Hollow, and McEvoy Ranch, to name a few, at better prices elsewhere.

Well, at least you'd be eating a whole goose, not a harvested body part. And do you suppose those liverless ducks and geese are schmoozing at the water cooler, swapping war stories about their "operations"? I think you missed my attempt at irony. You do realize the geese are not raised solely for the "harvest" of their livers? The rest of the bird is eaten as well and that was my point. The geese are going to be slaughtered despite the law. I will never understand why animal rights activists need to protect geese from the feeding practices when they will be slaughtered anyway. Life would conitnue without foie gras. My real issues are with the inane politicians that use an issue like this to pander to the animal rights groups and the fact that very few seem to really care. It appears to me that some people are more concerned about farm animals in Sonoma, that are treated about 100 times better than your average chicken, than with Sacramento telling us what we can eat.

Ironically, if the law passes, I will still be able to buy a dead goose and eat it. Hell, I can even buy my own goose, kill it and eat it. But God forbid I OVERfeed it for a little while. Sadly, we will have to bootleg the profound delicacy from a neighboring state. At least for a little while. (Here's hoping Sonoma Foie Gras will move their operation to Nevada) Seriously, I find it interesting that I have not seen any sort of campaign to fight the bill other than what the poor Sonoma Foie Gras people can muster. Even on this site, there seems to be very little interest in what boils down to the government telling us what we can eat. I guess the rights of livestock is more important????? I plan to buy and eat many more dead animals.