Lenski

There is a very funny interview with Subijana in today's El Pais (link below). The title is "I sin as much as I can." Among his new dishes "truffle with kuzu and yolk" and "Distilled lobster." Also he mentions that Harrison Ford's son was a stagier there. http://www.elpais.com/articulo/ultima/Peco...elpepiult_1/Tes

[Moderator note: The original [CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion topic became too large for our servers to handle efficiently, so we've divided it up; the preceding part of this discussion is here: [CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 2)] My last (big) meal of the year—or I should say the one worth writing about on egullet—was at “Alinea.” I have eaten there three times before and, as usual, Chef Achatz did not disappoint. On a very personal note, for me “Alinea” is the operatic equivalent of Wagner’s “Gotterdammerung.” As much as I love the opera, I welcome the intermissions and I wish that “Alinea” would offer me the possibility of doing the Tour with intermissions so as to give me the opportunity of experiencing all of Chef Achatz’s delectable creations and of enjoying his prodigious inventiveness to the fullest. I am offering this preamble because when looking at my notes/pictures I realize that all my favorites were towards the beginning and I think I should only fault my deliciously-abused palate. We also did the wine pairing with the Tour, as usual. I am not sure if I “upgraded” (terrible wording, by the way), but I think I did since I compared notes (read prices) with a friend who had recently dined there a week before. I think I am not capable of saying “please upgrade my wine pairings” at a restaurant of this caliber without making a bad joke (“Will you be using paper or electronic upgrades?”, “Do I downgrade if I am cheap?”). I have just checked with recent posters and my offerings coincide with people that requested the (business or first class) wine pairing. Bad jokes aside: My Tour was as follows: 1. Hot Potato 2. King Crab 3. Char Roe 4. Medai 5. Matsutake 6. Carrot 7. Monkfish 8. Duck 9. White Truffle 10. Kobe Beef 11. Concord Grape 12. Chestnut 13. Persimmon 14. Quince 15. Shellfish 16. Hamachi 17. Pineapple 18. Lamb 19. Venison 20. Orange 21. Licorice Cake 22. Chocolate 23. Caramel There was something that was not on the menu, something cinnamon with something inside, and it was served on the same stands where they used to serve those fondly remembered “Heart of Palms.” I think the “Hot Potato” and “White Truffle” deserve no further explanation. They are perfection. White Truffle pic: Among my favorites were the King Crab on a vinegar gelee with different aromatics, the Char Roe with cucumber and coconut and the Monkfish served with a combination of banana and onion, incredible. Then the Lamb finished on the hot rock was very good as was the venison “encased in a savory granola,” both were outstanding. A picture of the King Crab: The Char Roe: The “pillow” came with juniper air and a very good duck with pancetta and beets. The Kobe Beef was good (even though it contained one of my least favorite food items: beets again). I did not care much for the Persimmon, the Hamachi (too many peanuts) or the desserts (the Licorice cake was probably the only dish that I truly disliked of the menu). The desserts were disappointing to my dinner companions as well. However, I guess we were all a little bit exhausted towards the end and we were far from appreciative. A pic of the Chocolate Dessert with "passion fruit, kaffir lime and soy." I thought the “Carrot” (smoked paprika and orange), one of those “balls” that you pop into your mouth and the frozen “Concord Grape” and the "Chestnut" with sherry vinegar were excellent. The wine pairing was very good and I loved the “detail” of printing the menu with the respective wines. To my surprise, the service—very amicable and professional—was not as good as I remembered it. There were two serious breaks in service and, at one point, the runner brought the same dish we had just been served. A little surprising, IMHO, given my previous flawless experience at "Alinea." However, the restaurant felt very busy (they turned one table in my section) and there seemed to be moments of stress around the waiting staff. These are very minor quibbles given the long evening (four hour plus). I think “Alinea” rightly deserves all the accolades and it is truly one incredible gastronomical experience. Questions, ask And hope everyone has a very delectable '07

Remember that no cooks in this city can produce a memorable meal that rivals these two cooks with their price points. And, IMHO, they rival chefs with a much higher price point. Apart from their highly sophisticated cuisine, there is something very special going on at "Schwa." I cannot put my finger on it; however, I believe the (welcome) lack of pretentiousness, Nathan's exquisite taste in music (not to everybody's taste but...), and the sense of camaraderie established by their cooking/serving combination makes "Schwa" an experience to behold and savour. Here is to 2007 and my respects and myI-am-not-worth-it shout-out to Michael, Nathan, Blake, Pedro and the new guy whose name escapes me at the moment. Lenski,

Schwa and the "Elote" soup tops the list of the "100 Best Things we Ate this Year." The presentation in the restaurant is different, but it still looks delicious http://www.timeout.com/chicago/Details.do?...s_year_1_20.xml

I just hope that you can convince your whole family to have the GTM. It takes time (4 hours) but it is worth it. I just came back from another memorable meal at Chef Cantu's Moto. The GTM included old favorites (Italian food, Nitro Sushi Roll, Acorn with Bacon, among many others) and a couple of new dishes for me: The Gooseberry and mint (not sure what it was, but it was great) And the "Beef mac &Cheese" THe "mac" was dehydrated elbow pasta and you mixed in the "cheddar." Delicious and playful to the max. Among the many desserts (Banana Split, Flapjacks, 3 cotton Candy Stages) the perennial "Nachos" MOTO is fast becoming one of my favorite restaurants. I am surprised that some posters criticized the service because, in my experience, it has always been flawless. Amy, Matthew, the two Mikes and Trevor, among the wait staff, are topnotch professionals. I cannot wait to go there soon, very soon. Enjoy, Lenski.

I had eaten at Comerç 24 five or six times before. However, this time it really clicked for me. A good friend told me that he wanted to try Comerç 24 so we went to the hip Born neighborhood (just be careful at night!). I did not even take my camera (a decision that I deeply regretted) but a change of plans gave me an opening so I went there again. The menu was somewhat different but the overall dining experience was still very good. A lot better than what I had experienced before. As an aside, Carles Abellan appeared on a morning talkshow talking about the controversial "Decreto Real" requiring restaurants to freeze all (and they mean all) fish to prevent anisakis. (http://www.aesa.msc.es/aesa/web/AesaPageServer?idpage=56&idcontent=6691). Not surpisingly, Abellan did not look too convinced about the law. On with the food. On my earlier visit, I had the egg with truffle at the bottom, and the Pernil (ham) two ways. One was a gelee concoction and the other was the classic melo amb pernil (ham and melon). Fantastic. As every meal I have had there, the amuse were the same two: Golden Macadamia nuts, rasberries and cauliflower and olives with anchovies...followed by Potato Chips with olive mousse (it captures the spirit of a Spanish "vermouth" tapeo). Then something new for me: Dahsi (that is their spelling, and I do not know if it is right) soup with Wasabi Ice Cream The Wasabi Ice Cream was very spicy/hot. The combination of hot/cold and hot/sweet was outstanding. Next, Oyster with Truffle oil and Horchata with Crabmeat. The Oyster was anything but subtle. And the Horchata (orxata de xufes (horchata de chufas), made from tigernuts, water and sugar, very popular in the summer times. You have not been to Spain if you have never had Orxata) with crabmeat was a dangerous proposition with a very good ending. Next, Sepia Ravioli (Cuttle-fish Ravioli) and Octopus with (forgive me) potato gelatin. Both winners. I do not know the ingredients in the Ravioli but the, literally, explosion of flavors in your mouth was both breathtaking and palate exhausting. The pulpo was refreshing and delicate. Lucky for me I had this combo twice. Next, Scallops with Romesco and Fish (lluc,) salsa a la Pilpil (a classic Basque sauce) Very good. Clear tastes, nothing fancy. Mousse de Foie and Duck Risotto THe little dish on top is the Kiko (salty corn) powder. Correct. Then the last one, Steak with wasabi on potato. Very good also. And then desserts, THe celery and apple "granizado" was the palate cleanser. Surprisingly, the Muesli with dry fruits and nuts was outstanding and so were all the chocolate variations. Overall, two great meals. What changed for me? Not sure, but this time I think the menu, the progression, made more sense combining classic staples with original combinations. On both occassions I had the Superfestival (72 Euros) with the wine pairing (glasses between 4-6 euros each). We had more dishes than just the ones pictured above. Great service and a great place, very Barcelona as one person said. Questions, ask please. Lenski

Dear John, Totally agreed. If I can I will add all the descriptions of the cheese platter. L.

Caganer is a popular character, which roughly translates as "defecator" see this wikipedia article. the numbers did not close. pig trotters truffle ← Thansk for the translations.

Hola, Just back from 10 days in/around Barcelona. A great city around this time of year (we stayed at the Majestic and Omm). How can you not love a culture that puts a "caganer" in their Nativity scene? Around town, Martin Berasategui will open another restaurant (right across from Lasarte) geared towards a more "popular" cuisine (meaning cheaper). I also found out that NOBU wanted to open a restaurant in Barcelona but he decided against it once "els numeros no li quadraven" according to one of my sources. I would be interested in learning more about what went wrong. And, of course, Ducasse will soon arrive (at the Mandarin). Talk about the mountain going to Mahoma. I never thought I would say this but, towards the end of my trip, I was really stuffed. I would love to hear "tricks" that people use in order to keep enjoying food. My routine is running at least four miles every morning, never snack, and ask for the smallest portions. I always have the "tasting menu" with wine pairing. Although, truth be told, I stopped having the wine pairing around my 7th dinner and just had water. I just could not have any more wine and even very good food started tasting We visited 12 restaurants. I will only post about three (Ruscalleda because it was my best meal, "Lasarte" because there are no posts, and "Comerc 24" for after several so-so visits it finally gave me a very unforgettable meal. Some of my favorite restaurants really disappointed me. In one particular case, it was an "ouch" moment. HOwever, it might have been me and I believe that sometimes my palate does not want to collaborate so I will save some opinions. However, if you want to know, ask.... Among the trends: a) I have had enough Foie for the rest of my life. I think all menus had one foie dish. It is not always good. And I am glad that I will spend two weeks in Chicago. b) "Peus de Porc" everywhere. c) A lot of desserts included "strange" mixtures such as "spinach ice cream" (sublime) to "crema catalana with mushrooms" (not that good), actually they were rossinyols. c1) Kikos d) Eggs cooked all kinds of way, runny (most of the time). e) And, lastly, I am the biggest Truffle (fill in the blanks), but enough is enough. I have had "tofona" everywhere, on everything. Some great combinations but, and "chacun a son gout," a little bit goes a long way. My best meal for this trip was (no surprise) Sant Pau. I would describe it as miraculous. A beautiful day in Sant Pol greeted us for some magnificent gastronomy delights. We started with an assortment of "tapas" and amuse ( a "torro salat" to die for)and then the real adventure began: 1) Autumm 2006 ASPIC (Quality zero egg, pumpkin, courgette and spicy sauce) http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11663823...022_1060398.jpg 2)Truffled "Pilota" (Vegetable and meat broth, sweet of the pumpkin, carrot http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11663823...022_1025330.jpg 3) European Lobster"Saute" (Spinach, endive, chayote, Tokoroten fine herbs" http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11663823...4022_315803.jpg 4) Different from the Printed Menu (Angler), and we had a Llobarro (Sea bass?) cooked in between Arce (?). http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551...4022_742400.jpg 5) Two choices, we had both. a) Wild Partridge (stewed a l'ancienne, apple, thym citron http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551...4022_459420.jpg b) Foie and Pig's Trotter (incredible) http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4022_41144.jpg Among the winners, for us, were the "Escudella" and the Pig's Trotter. Although there were all very good. And then the desserts came. They started with the Cheeseboard for December. All were felicitous combinations. http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4023_35940.jpg As a palate cleanser, I had the most sublime "ice cream" i have ever had http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4023_34278.jpg THen the first dessert. The Planets: http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4023_23473.jpg and a great take on the "pijama" http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4023_13515.jpg Then their chocolate desserts http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551...5_4023_1745.jpg and http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551...5_4023_1745.jpg And then the "assorted confectionary" http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4023_41040.jpg Overall, this was one of the most memorable meals of the year. One of the best wait staff I have ever encountered, and David, a great sommelier, made this meal a great experience. Among the wines that he recommended were l'Argata, and a Jorge Ordonez that were spectacular, as were most of his choices. I also loved the bread service. My last three star meals (in my book it is not a very reliable barometer) were at "Daniel" and "Per Se" in NYC and they are not in the same league. Honestly. Any more questions, ask. Next week Chicago: MOto, Alinea and Schwa (talk about the Holy Trinity) Lenski, rather blasfemous tonight on his way to "Don Carlo" and Picholine.

Ironically, I am writing this from the "Majestic Hotel" in Barcelona. I went to "Drolma" for the last time a year and a half ago. Is it worth it? Not for me, but I know a lot of people that really enjoy it. It is as classic (meaning French School) as it can get. I would compare it to "Daniel" or "Jean Georges" in NYC. Impeccable service. It is the kind of restaurant that, if it were in the middle of Paris, it would have received three stars a long time ago. From my recollection, it was very, very expensive. At half the price,as an industry insider told me, "Drolma" might be fine, but not at those prices. I remember my bill for two people being, by far, the most expensive in Barcelona. Around $150 more expensive than the rest. In terms of cuisine, leaving aside the rest, it is very far away from its Catalan "3 suns" colleagues.

Last time I was there was for Brunch. It is very close from my CHicago residence so it is Ambria or, I will admit it, Mon Ami Gabi. My last brunch was the typical egg frittata and sundried tomatoes. Not only it was bland but the service was terrible (slow and attitude). I will post when I go back. Again, some of my friends really like it. I do not.

I have eaten there several times. Lunch/Brunch and dinner. I do not understand how it rates so highly on some foodies' palates, but it does. All my experiences there have been mediocre at best. However, I am in the minority. The setting can be pretty spectacular.

I do not think this has been posted yet. "Chicago" Magazine has an interview with the six top chefs (according to them) in Chicago and "Schwa" becomes, indirectly, the topic of conversation. Welcome to Toqueville

Hispania for sea product. Coure for consistency and excellent technique. Els Casals for traditional cuisine with a modern touch, using fresh products from their own farm. Quimet i Quimet if you want to try canned products of the highest quality. Also, you're going both to Lasarte and Moo, which one could say are "branches" of other big name restaurants. Why not try to go to Can Roca instead of Moo, for instance? I'm not a big fan of Sant Pau. Excellent execution, great product, but IMHO nothing to write home about. ← I am a litlle surprised that Saüc (Xavier Franco, Barcelona) gets one star. I have eaten there twice and it is good but, let's say, that I am surprised. It seems a little bit casual (vs. a little pretentious, which Alkimia, IMHO, is) to merit one star. I thought that "Cinc sentits" might get one star this year. Every time that I have eaten there is pretty much flawless. I must admit that I have heard good things for Miramar (Llanca), but I had never heard of El Rebost d´en Pere (Banyoles). Good for them.

Congratulations are in order. I will go there again this summer for sure. Also, it will be interesting to see which restaurants geo one or two stars. THanks for the info.

Interesting. I will offer a translation, just in case.... "One of my colleagues places a cork in the water when boiling octopus for his "pulpo a la gallega" (octopus the galician way). He claims that it prevents the octopus skin from breaking. Can someone shed some light on the subject? Pulpo a la gallega: A variant on the recipe is here..... http://www.recipezaar.com/60083

Totally casual. I have seen people dressed in suits and tracksuits (yes!). It is very informal and I, for one, welcome it. It goes with their philosophy, I believe, that it is all about the food.

Went to "Schwa" last week. Again, incredible. One new dish:instead of the Prosciutto Consomme we got the "Elotes" soup....Perfection, that is all I say. ← Lenski, I would be very interested in learning more about this soup. Can you describe it? What made it so "perfect?" They do make some truly remarkable dishes there. Their quail egg ravioli remains one of the most outstanding and memorable dishes that I have had this year. ← Dear Doc, I am starting to hate going to "Schwa" because I realize that I need to bring a Thesaurus to describe those dishes with accurate adjectives. You will really be jealous when I tell you that the egg ravioli are still sublime. I think they might be a little smaller than before (or maybe it is my craving talking) However, I do not know what adjective to use "empyrean?" "elysian?", the perfect dish got accentuated by delicate and ethereal white truffle shavings. I am not ashamed to admit that I licked the plate. Proudly. The "elotes" soup is, according to the explanation I was offered, a take on a very popular Chicago street food (http://www.openair.org/alerts/corn/) and you have the cup of elotes soup, with (some sort of caramelized/crystallized) corn, ethereal parmiggiano and a reduction of herbs (very whimsically presented). I really wanted to take a picture but it would have only worked with flash. Another new dish was the amuse, a deconstruction of a caramelized apple. This time, for dessert, we both got the same one. A chocolate concoction, a classic finish. I am back next month ( I still do not know when they reopen for 2007. Last time we spoke they were not sure), and for 2007, I hope I will eat there at least once every two months. In my very humble culinary opinion, few things beat "Schwa" in Chicago or any other place.

Went to "Schwa" last week. Again, incredible. One new dish:instead of the Prosciutto Consomme we got the "Elotes" soup....Perfection, that is all I say.

I was also gutted. I have eaten there three times now. I also asked for any table, any day from May on. Nothing, same email. However, husband still is in the running.....we will see.

We recently had the GT at Moto. We also thought it would be a good idea to order the 10-wine pairing, but was told that it would not be possible. When I mentioned that the 10 wines were identical to those given with the GT, I was told that they were not. After trying to reason back and forth, it was such a pain that we decided to get the full wine tour, though I think 10 would have been plenty. ← I will be there next month and I will ask for the same thing you did. If that is not possible, I will go cocktail/champagne and a glass of red....and then that is it.

I don't think that it would be wise to extrapolate this based on a handful of experiences... ← I have just made reservations for this coming December at "Abac,' "Hisop" and "Sant Pau" via their websites/email and I just got a response (and the reservation) right back. Earlier in the year, the same with "Cinc sentits" although they only book two weeks in advance. So, I think the concept of online transactions has been totally embraced. L.

Hey DutchMuse. There were no wine pairings per se (pardon the pun). We started with a glass of "blanc de blancs" as I tend to do and then we had a couple of glasses (a Riesling and something else) and then two small bottles of a wine and a red (very expensive, by the way). L.

If the neighborhood isn't too far away, just pop upstairs and grab a menu. They're available to take with you right outside, and you don't even have to go in and ask for it. ← Also if your willing to go head to head with the phone lines again they will gladly fax you one. But realize other then the signature items the menu will likely be completely different by Monday. ← Per Se/October 2006 Last week, I went to “Per Se” again. I can honestly say that it would have been a great meal had it been 1986…. One of my desserts was, believe it or not, crème brulée. I was terribly frustrated and, at approximately $900 plus for two people, very depressed. The place still looks terrific and the staff is extremely cordial. Two staff members remembered me (I did not) even though I had not been there for a long time. It is always a nice touch. Chef Keller was on the premises, by the way. I also liked that the same table can share different menus since I am all for the communal experience. We went for the CTM (9 courses, with the “torchon” and the “lamb” as choices) and the seven course meal to sample as much as possible. We decided against the “truffle” option. We decided to have the sommelier choose our wines and the choices were top-notch. If anyone interested in the details, please email me and I will give you the names. The menus were: CTM Cauliflower “Panna Cotta” “Torchon” Crispy Skin Fillet of Royal Dorade Scottish Langoustines "À [sic] la Plancha” Rillettes of Hallow Farm’s Young Rabbit “Selle d’Agneau Rôtie” Cheese Plate (Meadow Creek Grayson) Mango Sorbet Chocolate S’Mores “Mignardises” Seven Course: Sauteed Fla. Gulf Shrimp “Tartare of Atlantic Bluefin tuna Pan Roasted File of Pomfret Rib-eye of Marcho Farm’s Nature Fed Veal Formaggio di Fossa Huckleberry Sorbet Snickers Bar Mignardises Of the CTM, the only outstanding dish was the “Langoustines” and the broth that accompanied them, and surprisingly the veal and its very delicate ragout of black trumpet mushrooms. The “Torchon” was very sub-par and so was the “Agneau” and the “Royal Dorade.” Everything had a feeling of deja-vu, so old….so tired, like the Cauliflower PC…there is nothing new there and it was never an impressive dish. The “Tuna Tartare” was not good at all. The combination of textures and flavors did not work at all (Horseradish, young beets, garden Tarragon and potato gaufrettes). Overall, if I had to find one adjective to summarize the whole meal would be "uninspired." I know the desserts have been heavily criticized at “Per Se” and, given my recent experience, deservedly so. The sorbets were ok, but the “snickers bar” and the “smore’s” were nicely presented but terribly vulgar. They were just that a deconstructed “snickers bar” but not as tasty. The “smore’s” was a little better, just because of the more playful ingredients that go into its recipe. Then we got the “Crème b” which I think added insult to injury. Last August, I went to “Jean Georges” which is not that different from “Per Se” in terms of culinary rhetoric or category and I would rate the former higher (although not a memorable experience either)…but at this level, I think ADNY is still the master, in my humble opinion. I still have not been to l'Atelier (in NY). Sadly, I was very disappointed. Maybe it was an off day, but at those prices, and given the overall lack of quality and originality, I cannot recommend it. And, unless things change dramatically…. Any more information or detail that you might want or need….please ask.

I agree that the wine tasting service can be a problem. The attached picture shows the problem that you so elegantly presented. The wines were all very good (a couple exceptions aside) but the dishes come out pretty fast and then you have to drink fast or create a (wine)traffic jam. From now on, if (a completely rethorical if) I order the GTM, I will ask for the 10-wine pairing service. http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11610160...3747_512510.jpg