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LPShanet

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Posts posted by LPShanet

  1. That's mostly true, but I think there are exceptions, as noted in my post above. When a restaurant is perceived as being too trendy, and as a spot where people go to be seen rather than to eat "serious" food, then the restaurant's reputation and image as a serious eating destination can be harmed. Even if the food coming out of the kitchen is interesting, skillfully prepared and thought-provoking, the place can still fail if it is seen as a "fluff" destination. So while Tailor may have had an initial influx of cash from the publicity-driven crush, it is possible that the publicity and the resultant crowd actually hurt it in the long run. (This same theory is seen in more obvious ways in nightlife, where the latest trendy lounge may be packed for 6 months due to publicity, but doors close a few months later when the next latest/greatest thing opens. Meanwhile, serious fans of good cocktails probably don't bother with the place, and go to other places that open with less fanfare but more perceived sophistication. Those may last longer despite thinner crowds to start.)

    OK, now I understand the point a little bit better. I still think that if that did play a role in the demise, it had to be a small one compared to what I perceive to be the obvious factors.

    1) Most* NYers who can afford to be repeat customers at that price range are an older, stuffier set with very boring expectations.

    2) A restaurant with two dining rooms needs to be able to sell PDR, and thats all but impossible when the food is not extremely simple and safe.

    *Relax, if you're reading this I probably don't mean you.

    Excuse my noobishness, but what is PDR? (Other than the Physician's Desk Reference.)

  2. So if it's conceded that repeat business was unlikely due to the genre and location of the restaurant, then how could the increased initial influx of cash due to advanced publicity have been a negative? If nobody was going to go twice anyhow, then wasn't it a blessing that people who may never have gone at all did pay a visit, and did so during the crucial first six months?

    I just can't visualize the financial model in which increased initial interest is a negative, especially in a business where cash-in-hand is everything. What other industry would this ever apply to? If a movie is not well received, it will make the majority of its take during the first two weekends before negative word of mouth spreads, based almost solely on effective advertising. If everyone was so very aware of Tailor's PR campaign, then obviously it was a success. More diners equals more cash-in-hand, period. Is the implication that without any advanced PR, more people would have made their way to Tailor on their own time, and somehow spent more, returned more often, etc? I really just don't get it.

    EDIT: Anything Frank Bruni says is also positive publicity. There is a proven increase in business following a Times review, negative or positive. We live in a city with 25,000 restaurants; awareness is everything. It is the lack of a Times review that is a death sentence for a fine dining restaurant.

    That's mostly true, but I think there are exceptions, as noted in my post above. When a restaurant is perceived as being too trendy, and as a spot where people go to be seen rather than to eat "serious" food, then the restaurant's reputation and image as a serious eating destination can be harmed. Even if the food coming out of the kitchen is interesting, skillfully prepared and thought-provoking, the place can still fail if it is seen as a "fluff" destination. So while Tailor may have had an initial influx of cash from the publicity-driven crush, it is possible that the publicity and the resultant crowd actually hurt it in the long run. (This same theory is seen in more obvious ways in nightlife, where the latest trendy lounge may be packed for 6 months due to publicity, but doors close a few months later when the next latest/greatest thing opens. Meanwhile, serious fans of good cocktails probably don't bother with the place, and go to other places that open with less fanfare but more perceived sophistication. Those may last longer despite thinner crowds to start.)

  3. I think the problem was that it wasn't the type of place that was going to get a lot of repeat business and it was in the middle of nowhere. The block was empty. There aren't many people who are going to head out for that kind of cooking on a regular basis. (I've never been to WD50, but I don't know that it's food is quite as outlandish as Tailor's.)

    Actually, some would say that WD-50's food is more outlandish than Tailor's was. It certainly isn't less so by any measurable margin. As for the other examples a few posts up (Aldea and Jean Georges), they hardly qualify as this type of cuisine. While Aldea is certainly somewhat modernized compared to its inspirations, it doesn't really aspire to any "molecular" or really experimental techniques, nor are the combinations comparable. And including Jean Georges in the category is an even more major stretch. The fact is that WD-50 is the only successful restaurant in this genre, and it's not clear that its success will sustain it for years into the future. NY just hasn't shown any love for the genre for whatever reasons.

    In the case of Tailor, I think the thing that most separated it from WD-50 is that it was much trendier than WD-50, and much of the initial press could be perceived as being aimed at the hipster set rather than exclusively at food enthusiasts. WD-50's core supporters are definitely foodies more than trendies, while Tailor wasn't so clearly defined.

  4. With Colicchio & Sons offering a tasting menu featuring similar dishes, I am not sure what would be the point of reinstating TTD.

    Having done both, I think the point would be that TTD was a MUCH higher level of cooking. Add to that the facts that it was a much smaller/quieter room, a much more personal menu and Tom himself was actually at the pass touching every dish and you have a pretty compelling case for reinstating it. There's a big difference between good food in a huge/bustling room being brought to you by competent but green staff, and sitting at one of six or so tables and chatting with Tom as he makes your dinner. I will really miss TTD.

    I think it's doubtful that Colicchio sees it that way. When he charges $78 for three courses and $125 for a tasting menu, it means that in his own mind Colicchio & Sons is a three-star restaurant. Now, I don't think it is even close to that, and I don't think this week's smackdown from Adam Platt is the last we'll see. But in terms of his own ambitions, I think he sees Colicchio & Sons as a TTD that he can do every day.

    Colicchio has long understood that he is as much a manager as a chef. Before Colicchio & Sons opened, TTD offered a style of cooking that was not on offer at any of his other places. Obviously there was a premium in the perception that "Celebrity-chef Tom Colicchio personally cooked and plated my food." But Colicchio would tell you that he thinks his team is capable of executing his dishes to his standards, and that if the serving staff is green now, they won't be for long.

    Again, I am not saying that he is necessarily realistic in his views, only that I am sure that is how he wants things to turn out.

    Based on everything I've read, I totally agree with you. Colicchio has said as much multiple times in the press. And even in more intimate discussions, he's suggested that his aim at Colicchio & Sons was to do the type of composed food he used to do. Sadly, saying that doesn't make it so. Even if they were operating at a higher level, and the food was more transcendent, I still think there is still no way to make a place with Colicchio & Sons physical parameters do that. I think it's just too big a room, with too many covers to do the kind of cooking in question at the level we're talking about. Not to mention the noise and raucousness that the C&S/Craftsteak room creates, which is inconsistent with 3-star aspirations. That makes Colicchio & Sons a pale substitute for the really special things he was doing at TTD (which were arguably close to 4-star). Personally, I think he'd be better off making it the Ssam Bar to TTD's Ko, and keeping both up, but I'm sure that would put too much on his plate, no pun intended. I believe the TTD and Colicchio & Sons customer are two different people. As is, everyone gets a watered down version of what they really want.

  5. With Colicchio & Sons offering a tasting menu featuring similar dishes, I am not sure what would be the point of reinstating TTD.

    Having done both, I think the point would be that TTD was a MUCH higher level of cooking. Add to that the facts that it was a much smaller/quieter room, a much more personal menu and Tom himself was actually at the pass touching every dish and you have a pretty compelling case for reinstating it. There's a big difference between good food in a huge/bustling room being brought to you by competent but green staff, and sitting at one of six or so tables and chatting with Tom as he makes your dinner. I will really miss TTD.

  6. Hey all,

    Friend is planning a bithday dinner for his girl. She loves scallop sashimi. Any reccomendations of where to go in Manhattan? Not too pricy please.

    Thanks

    Grace

    Well, with anything sashimi, price is related to quality, and bargain raw fish is rarely a real bargain, if you know what I mean. Because the taste is subtle, and best left without too much adulteration, you really notice when the scallop itself isn't the best. That said, the best examples of scallop sashimi I've had in Manhattan are at 15 East, Sushi Yasuda and Ushi Wakamaru. Also really good were Soto and Kyo Ya. Of course, it is dependent on the place having it on a given day, so calling ahead is advised. Other options include Sushi Uo on the LES (which had great live scallop the last time I was there), Shimizu in the West 50's and Jewel Bako (which has improved again of late) . And although it's not exactly cutting edge, the scallop tiradito at Nobu is always a good call. For non-Japanese/traditional versions, you might try Desnuda, or Esca.

  7. WD-50 is too risky, in my opinion, at its price point, given the value of money to me. We could love it or we could hate it. As for 11 Madison Park, I had a disappointing experience there a couple of years ago and don't plan on going again on my dime.

    Sake is fine, and I will try to get reservations at Kyo Ya this time. If they are booked, I will consider other places, and if I can get reservations, I'll certainly keep other recommended places in mind for another time. In any case, I will report back and thank you for your suggestions.

    Kyo Ya is REALLY good, but it's definitely a more austere experience in terms of flavor profiles than either Degustation or Ko, due to its traditional Japanese orientation. It's all about ingredient quality rather than rich flavor deveopment. Just so you're prepared.

  8. We're going in three weeks and would love some recommendations for dinners within walking distance of Times Square. Looking for french bistro type food (nothing upscale) and greek food (again, nothing upscale). Comfort food places are what I had in mind. Also, what's the best bet for breakfast and lunch in the neighborhood. We're seeing a Broadway matinee on Saturday and visiting MOMA on Friday. Leaving Sunday around noon. Thanks so much.

    Triomphe (44th between 5th and 6th) might be worth a try for French bistro fare.

  9. Tonight was the opening night of Colicchio&Sons, in the previous Craftsteak space. There they are doing more composed dishs like they served at Tom:Tuesday Dinner. Bottom line: great stuff very similar to what they were serving at those nearly impossible to get into meals. I put up more pics and commentary at http://www.wordsmithingpantagruel.com/2010/01/colicchio-opening-night-review.html if you want to see more.

    Edo

    I think those impossible to get into meals may now be even more impossible to get into. When I went to C & S last week, they said they were discontinuing Tom: Tuesdays so he could focus on the new place. Tom was in the house, although not in the kitchen. They were unsure whether the Tom: Tuesdays would start again eventually.

  10. I'd like to tweak the question a little bit.

    My friend and I are in the City for one Thursday night next month. We HAVE reservations at Per Se and will have enough time to make the concert we are going to afterwards. I WANT TO EAT THERE.

    However, jackets are required and that is the deal breaker.

    My question is, where can we go have a early seating dinner, at a quality place like JG or Per Se and not wear a jacket or tie ?

    Out of curiosity, what is the reason you are so adamant about avoiding wearing a jacket? Most of the places that do require them are pretty lenient about what constitutes an acceptable jacket, and I don't find those places necessarily any stuffier than many uptown restaurants that don't require jackets, but tend to have patrons in their biz clothes. I'm surprised to hear that wearing a jacket is a deal breaker for eating a truly spectacular meal. For what it's worth, very few places anywhere (and none of the ones you mention) require ties any more, so that's not an issue.

    Bob is coming from a business convention in Texas and I from one in Orlando, meeting up for the day in NYC. I don't think either one of us were planning on packing a dress jacket. We are going to MSG right afterwards, to a Rock n Roll concert and well......

    We don't want to be mistaken for the yuppies we really are :cool:

    As suggested upthread, I think Corton may be the place for you, too. Great food, and they're not as picky on dress code. Another way to go might be to check out EMP or The Modern.

  11. Thanks for the nice input, although it didn't really make my choice any easier:-)

    Judiu: Sure, I will cancel the remaining one (or as LPShanet suggests, try to get into L'Atelier on the Friday)

    To give you a comparison, I could mention that over the last 12 months I have shared a table with the very same friend at WD-50 and at Sergio Arola's restaurant in Madrid (full tasting menus both places). Quite a span of style and techniques, although Sergio also has a modern take on his food. Both occasions were very enjoyable, but very different. While WD-50 was amazing, soemtimes challenging, and partly very tasteful, the meal in Madrid was a pure and extravagant pleasure from the first amuse to the last dessert. As far as I can see from reviews and forum posts, both Corton and L'Atelier would be closer to Sergio Arola than to WD-50 in food style and ambience. Any additional comments, anyone?

    Having been to Arola's restaurant in Madrid myself, I can tell you that there isn't really anything comparable in New York. While we have a great food scene here, and more good restaurants than almost any other city in the world, modern/molecular cuisine isn't our strong point. So the places in NY that are most comparable to Arola's place in terms of service and extravagance aren't particularly adventurous in terms of their food. And the few places with more forward-leaning food (i.e. WD-50) aren't really trying to offer the same level of experience that the Arolas and Berasateguis of the world offer. However, I think the closest you'll come in NYC may be Corton. It's certainly more flamboyant in terms of service and presentation than WD-50, and while not as cutting edge, definitely offers a modern interpretation of cuisine. It's a really good restaurant, and well worth your checking out. L'atelier will be a little more traditional than Corton, and while delicious, probably less eye opening in terms of adventure.

  12. I'd like to tweak the question a little bit.

    My friend and I are in the City for one Thursday night next month. We HAVE reservations at Per Se and will have enough time to make the concert we are going to afterwards. I WANT TO EAT THERE.

    However, jackets are required and that is the deal breaker.

    My question is, where can we go have a early seating dinner, at a quality place like JG or Per Se and not wear a jacket or tie ?

    Out of curiosity, what is the reason you are so adamant about avoiding wearing a jacket? Most of the places that do require them are pretty lenient about what constitutes an acceptable jacket, and I don't find those places necessarily any stuffier than many uptown restaurants that don't require jackets, but tend to have patrons in their biz clothes. I'm surprised to hear that wearing a jacket is a deal breaker for eating a truly spectacular meal. For what it's worth, very few places anywhere (and none of the ones you mention) require ties any more, so that's not an issue.

  13. I will soon be in NYC together with a very good friend, who shares my passion for food and wine. As always when we are traveling together, I plan to arrange a memorable fine dining experience on our last night in town. It turns out that booking is slightly complicated due to Valentine's Day, meaning that a lot of interesting tables are already taken. Right now I am on the waiting list of Per Se, but I have managed to secure tables at L'Atelier and Corton for Saturday night. Assuming that Per Se is beyond reach, which one would you choose of L'Atelier or Corton? It should be added that we also enjoy our conversation when dining together, so we would favor a place that is not too loud.

    Both are wonderful, and among my favorites in NYC. And both are certainly quiet enough for pleasant conversation. The main difference is in the presentation. While both offer fairly modern takes on cuisine, there are subtle differences between them that are somewhat difficult to describe accurately (much as it's tough to describe certain differences inherently between painters or musicians). But crudely speaking, the presentations at Corton tend to be a bit more elaborate, and many dishes are composed of multiple parts, sometimes in separate vessels. Meanwhile, L'atelier tends to SEEM a bit simpler, although there is great complexity in doing seemingly simple things well. Neither one would quite fall into the molecular category by any means, but both (and especially Corton) take some cues from that style and incorporate it into the dishes in a way that works without seeming gimmicky. You won't go wrong with either, and if possible go to both! Aside from the extremely solicitous Michelin style service at Per Se, I'd say that both compare quite favorably with it, and you won't be missing out. In fact, some of the dishes at both L'atelier and Corton are more memorable, if only because they're a little less well known and sometimes "newer". Enjoy.

  14. I definitely would lean toward Jean Georges as well. In many ways, I actually like it better than Per Se, though I'm sure some would disagree.

    I'd also put in a vote for L'atelier de Joel Robuchon, where I've had some great meals, but with the caveat that they were all prior to the chef change that occurred a few months ago. The atmosphere in the two places is quite different, so it's really a matter of what you're feeling like. Since I find the best experience at L'atelier is to be had sitting at the bar, it may be a weaker choice for the type of meal you describe (leisurely, pampered, private, etc.).

  15. Is the goat app they used to serve at Cendrillon on the menu at Purple Yam? I hope so...I'd go just for that. It was one of the great lesser known dishes of NY.

    They have a goat curry with rice pancakes as a main on the new menu. Is that it? I think I remember having goat there once a long time ago, but haven't had it for ages.

    It might be, but it's hard to tell without either seeing the dish or having more description.

  16. With the exception of Peter Luger's, I suspect that just about anything outside of Manhattan is going to be off the radar for most non-locals.

    How many people are going to take one or two trains and a bus to try the Grandma slice at Rosa's pizza on 69th St. two blocks north of Grand Ave. in Maspeth? We'll just keep it as our little secret.

    Our friends Romy Dorotan and Amy Besa who owned Cendrillon on Mercer near Grand in Soho for 13 years--a Filipino fusion place with a solid following and two stars in the NYT--recently opened their new restaurant, Purple Yam, at 1314 Cortelyou Rd. in Ditmas Park, Brooklyn (Cortelyou Rd. stop on the Q train). It was a long wait for permits and inspections, and service was a little chaotic the first week or two with some new staff and new computer system, but they seem to be settling into their groove, and the food is still interesting with a mix of old favorites from Cendrillon and some new Korean influenced dishes. I highly recommend the lechon kawali, chicken adobo, and Romy's spareribs. I haven't compared the new and old menus side by side, but the check was less than I expected last time we were there, so I think they've lowered the prices a bit for the neighborhood. Info at www.cendrillon.com

    Is the goat app they used to serve at Cendrillon on the menu at Purple Yam? I hope so...I'd go just for that. It was one of the great lesser known dishes of NY.

  17. As for the location, while it' wasn't the middle of nowhere, it was a block with essentially no foot traffic/walk-in potential, and that part of Soho is certainly not a neighborhood on the rise in terms of dining. Lethal for a place that depended on a strong bar business as well as regular visitors to the dining room.

    That is probably the one explanation we can discount: the bar was the only successful thing at Tailor, and the only part of it that is still open.

    When a restaurant becomes known as a dining destination, the block it is on is of relatively little importance. Not just the block, but actually the entire neighborhood where WD~50 is located, was unknown as a dining destination not that long ago. If your restaurant is important enough, people will find it. This was never the type of restaurant, regardless of its location, that was going to do much walk-in business.

    In its early days, the dining room at Tailor was reliably full. Restaurants survive when a sufficient quantity of the early visitors are motivated to become regulars, and to recommend it to their friends. Tailor failed because not enough people felt the urge to do so. It didn't help that practically all of the reviews were middling to negative.

    The original menu at Tailor was a mistake. It didn't have enough savory courses, and some of the dishes were awfully expensive in relation to the portion sizes. Mason eventually adjusted, but the reviews were in by then. I do agree with an earlier poster that the much-delayed opening and the early hype (fueled by Mason himself) were unhelpful.

    My reference to "bar business" was probably a bit unclear, but I was referring to the old restaurant theory that when you open a new dining venue, you want to fill the restaurant's bar with regulars who also dine there. A full bar then gives the restaurant additional food business under that model and makes it feel like it's bustling. Tailor didn't do that. The thing with Tailor's bar is that it was very separate from the restaurant, both physically and in terms of clientele. They were essentially two separate venues. Sure, there was a certain number of "cocktailians" who went to the bar for the drinks, but at its peak, the bar's crowd was totally separate from the restaurant's in terms of makeup, and was driven mainly by hipness rather than epicurean interest. In fact, many of the foodie types who came just for drinks still had them in the dining room and not the bar. Like any new nightlife venue, once the bar downstairs lost its status as the new place, it also lost some of its energy and business. And since it never really connected much with the restaurant, it didn't help that side. Sure, they kept it open, but that's because they could still get some revenue coming in, while laying out less in terms of costs (and without a chef, host, and numerous support staff). Even a successful restaurant makes a large percentage of its money via alcohol, and it's a lot easier to keep the bar open with one or two less-skilled employees stirring up the existing formulas than it is to keep a whole dining room running. After the dining room closed, they typically only had one or two people running the bar max. And it certainly hadn't been profitable for a long time...it was just a way to stem the losses and get a trickle of money coming in.

    What you say about dining destinations is mostly true, but in the current economy maybe a bit less so. While WD-50 is a good example, they're doing less well now than they had been, too. Another thing to keep in mind is that Soho at the time of Tailor's opening was essentially a neighborhood on the way down, while the part of the LES surrounding Clinton Street when WD-50 opened was a neighborhood on the way up. Though it wasn't rife with food options for too long before the opening, it had already been home to several restaurants even on that one block. If the block where a restaurant is located really didn't matter, then I don't think we would have seen The John Dory close. It got mostly good/great reviews and was very busy to start with, yet its eventual closing was also blamed on neighborhood traffic. While a high end restaurant may lure people from further away, something at Tailor's price point and level of ambition is less likely to, unless it's one of a few screaming hot places in town. And as we all have said, they lost the chance to be that when all the delays hit.

    You make excellent points about the early mixed reviews and the time it took to make necessary adjustments to the menu structure. Let's hope things work out better for Sam next time. And let's also hope that NY makes more room in its heart for "modern" cooking.

  18. Well, that's the problem with this kind of discussion. Arturo's is a real New York place that locals, people from the regions (New Jersey, et al.), and former locals coming in for their New York pizza fix frequent, along with plenty of tourists (though not as many as Lombardi's, which is much more of a tourist trap in the negative sense). The fact that tourists go somewhere doesn't automatically make it less authentically New York.

    For some reason, the word "tourist" is practically always used as a pejorative on these threads, which is why I prefer the less-judgmental word "visitor." Some visitors are extremely keen on finding excellent, but lesser known, dining options. Several of the places mentioned on this thread are very well known. A visitor who does his homework in advance is quite likely to find out about them. Does that make them bad?

    Great point, Marc. After all, I've been a tourist during most of my (extensive) food travels. Now, "B&T" on the other hand.... ;)

    NB: I do think that on a thread labelled "Not For Tourists", there must be better suggestions for non-touristy pizza than Arturo's (and Lombardi's), real NY or not. I think the gist of the OP's question was finding places that are known mainly or exclusively by locals and are off the radar of non-locals.

  19. I hate to say it, but I'd suggest trying this question on Chowhound, too. Their group is larger and you may get some more input. I say this simply because I've been to PDH quite a few times, and while their duck is decent, it's certainly nothing special compared to a really great one. Wish I could provide more options to try, but I'd assume that somewhere in this city (maybe Flushing, maybe one of the shmancier places such as Chinatown Brasserie) there must be a superior version. A number of years back, I had better Peking duck at Kam Chueh, which sadly is gone now. Where are our Chinese experts when we need them? :)

  20. As others have mentioned, it's really important to distinguis between fancy or nouvelle Greek and more traditional places. Manhattan isn't really a great place for down and dirty homestyle Greek food, but in the fancier realm, Anthos and Molyvos (already mentioned) are quite good. Another sleeper in the fancy Greek realm used to be Thalassa in Tribeca, though I haven't been in quite a while, so can't guarantee that it's still good.

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