Lesley C

Than why two stars? Doesn't sound "very good" to me. Wasn't Hearth given two stars also? Do these two restaurants belong in the same league? Maybe the Times should consider the half-star option.

Great post carswell, as usual, lots of food for thought. I think the wine writers really should be taken to task about conflict of interest issues. They are wined and dined (and yes taken around the world by agents not the SAQ) and their alliances are starting to show. Much to discuss here. David, did your letter ever make it to the paper?

No Bymark? Toronto people, does that make sense?

I guess what some people call modest, other people call cruddy.

I had the entire 13-course menu Bau prepared during the Montreal Highlights Festival in mid February (this exact same menu has already been -- lightly -- discussed a while back on the Montreal board). I actually thought the risotto was one of the better dishes. Our menu included a duck and chocolate pastilla, a lamb dish, an extra dessert and more. I agree that Bau doesn't really excel at savoury BUT my surprise was how mediocre the desserts were. The gelée was an absolute failure in my books because the mouthfeel was more crumbly than melting and the last dessert, a sacher cake with truffle ice cream, was incredibly rich. The whole thing felt like an experiment and I wasn't wild about being Bau’s guinea pig. BTW, I think he brought along one of the sous chefs from restaurant La Chronique in Montreal, where many of those dishes were conceived with chef Marc de Canck. All in all, the chocolate element was often just the sauce, and one couldn't help thinking the taste was an intrusion. At the end, I felt sick to my stomach. I think the amount of cocoa butter may also be a factor in the overwhelming cloyingness of the meal.

Yes fresco. And, don't be so envious. Depanneur wine is complete shit, and expensive shit at that. I'll only cook with it, and then with only the best stuff. Good for you David about the letter. I look forward to reading it.

David, there's no point griping about it on eGullet. Send a letter to the editor of the paper. I thought this article certainly could have delved far far more deeply into the subject, and perhaps pull a few quotes from the public. It read like a PR sheet for the SAQ. Bad news. Was the high sulphur content even mentioned in that story? And what about the high price for that shit? A missed opportunity indeed.

So Jayson Blair made up all those stories. So what? People may not care, but still, a mistake is a mistake. And I think it's wrong to assume people don't care. If it were something that had to do with your culture, you might really care. There will always be readers out there that care, that's why journalists should check their facts. I like his writing, but IMO, such mistakes can not be so easily dismissed.

I had an omelette souffle there in January 1994, and remember it being rather nice.

I guess I have pretty thick skin. If you dole it out thick you gotta be ready to take it. "Tedious" and "horrible" are pretty strong comments. I know because I've used them in the past to describe restaurants and pastry shops as well. And I would always be willing to defend such harsh language. But if those two posters want to use such strong terms, I see no reason why Mr. Landurie should not be allowed to do the same. And yes, I verified, this is Mr. Landurie.

Yes, I will. As he signed, the two posts by Restaurant Les Halles are by the owner, Jacques Landurie. Welcome to eGulllet Mr. Landurie. I'm always happy to see a restaurateur stick up for his restaurant.

Yeah, but Babbo does. This is turning into the tablecloth thread.

Well, isn't that what a supper club is all about?

OK, wait, the waiters are wearing jeans? No way waiters can wear jeans in a three-star restaurant. Not to mention striped shirts!

Jason, that's you. But you would be surprised how many people care about the rest. Hearth looks too casual to be an "occasion" restaurant, and, IMO, a three-star restaurant has to fall into that category (it's a must with a four-star restaurant). When restaurants garner high ratings, they become destination restaurants, and a destination restaurant has to offer more than great food. Again, IMO, of course.

OK, I haven't been. Also, she doesn't say anything about the service. But, from the picture, it looks pretty casual. I can't quite see bar service (meals served at the bar) at a strong three-star restaurant. I, for one maybe, like a tablecloth in my three-star restaurants. Jason are you saying this restaurant is on a par with places like Grammercy Tavern and Craft?

This review, I liked. I found it very positive, almost gushing but not quite. Lots of those unique, Hesser-style food descriptions, no snide tone like last week. It sounds like the kind of restaurant one would visit time and time again, not some foodie destination. And I think the stars are bang on. This doesn't sound like a restaurant striving for four stars. Two sounds right. And don't forget, two equals "very good."

Yes, it was because the owners wanted French food "with a twist." How many times have I heard that one before? The restaurant is in Toronto, and according to the owner on the show, over three million dollars were poured into renovations and decor.

I just saw an episode of Opening Soon that featured a new supper club called Ultra. Has anyone been yet? It looked as though the chef was really struggling with the menu.

You get two reviews in one: one star for Asiate, and four stars for Jean-Georges! There was a snippy undertone throughout that write-up that came out roaring in the last line. Oh, but wait a minute, Mr. Vongerichten did contribute a rather flattering blurb for the dustjacket of Cooking for Mr. Latte. Now granted, that's a catty comment, but that's exactly the kind of criticism she is going to face for tossing in such unnecessary comparisons.

Yes it's all crushed up gaufrette, those layered wafer cookies, often in a fan shape, that come wrapped with ice cream in France. It's the classic base for a Royale Chocolat (chocolate mousse cake set on a crunchy base made of pailletee, praline and milk chocolate). You can also make great chocolates with the stuff, though the rough texture tends to snap guitar strings. Pierre Herme's terrific Cerise sur le Gateau cake is loaded with it.

The big thing at Lapérouse is to dine in one of the beautiful private dining rooms upstairs. You can even lock the doors, and the waiters knock before entering. I'm sure some randy types head straight upstairs in order to grope their dining companion over the potage, but I was there with a newborn and it was nice to have some privacy with a sleeping baby by our side. Yet I'm sure the occasional crying fit put off some of the activity in the neighboring rooms. Besides the intimate dining offered on the second floor, I can't see anything this establishment has over any other upscale restaurant. I certianly wouldn't call it two stars, or even one (by Michelin standards).

Royaltine is the DGF brand name for Pailletee Feuilletine.

Carswell, was the man's name Dennis Ferrer?

double post