robert brown

Thanks.

Steven, generally you're correct. It's just that after several days one might get a hankering for something different. I find switching to a meal at a Chinese and/or Vietnamese place a pleasant change. I can't recommend a Vietnamese place "per se" in Paris. Chinese-wise I always stuck to the upscale places like Tse Yang, or the one in spitting distance of the Beaubourg whose name escapes me, for finesse Chinese unlike just about anything you can get here. And they're not really pricey.

Steven, I'm sure you stand alone in your liking of Blue Moon. For me it's the Singha, not the song.

Where are all the beautiful people? Does anyone go to St. Barth anymore? I can give you a few names there that I went to 4-5 years ago. Our favorite is the Lafayette Club outdoors on the beach (lunch only) that serves nicely-prepared, straight-forward bistro/grilled meat and fish. For more ambitious French food, the Hotel St. Barth-Ile de France was delicious. People make a big deal over the dining room of Le Toiny, but we were quite disappointed in our dinner. There are certainly newer places since my last visit. My info. is stale. I have to think that St. Barth has the best grub down there given that produce is flown in a couple times a week from Paris. I've also eaten at several places in Anguilla, but nothing as pleasureable as what I mentioned above. I actually was looking for someone who has been to Les Saintes, two small islands off of Guadalupe. Anyone been there or Guadalupe itself?

Whenever a front-of-the-room employee says to me something such as "Your tabel will be ready in five minutes; the people are about to leave", I ask, "Is that real time or restaurant time"? Whether someone tells me that the occupants are just finishing their coffee, waiting for the bill, or paying their bill, the proverbial five minutes always turns into 15 or 20. Nothing in a restaurant gets me more riled up than that except when the kitchen loses your order. The last time that happened to me was two years ago at SF's Hay Street Grill. But then the woman partner there gave the two of us the meal on the house.

It's kind of bizarre. Who's meant to stay there? It sounds quite lovely, as I'm sure it is given the way Michel and Christine do things. Who knows if it's even open this time of year. Even more bizarre is the Mayle book. It got absolutely no attention as far I could tell. I grabbed it away from my wife and couldn't believe how uninspired the little I read was. But I must be the only Francophile who never read any of his books.

Okay, it's called "Domaine de Huchet" and Mayle doesn't pinpoint its location other than it is on the long stretch of beach on the Atlantic Coast. It seems quite simple; has three guestrooms and a couple or one chef in the kitchen. Bourgeoise cooking, sounds also like "table d'hote" situation. Sounds nice and relaxing, but Mayle gives no other info. except that you book it through the Eugenie-les-Bains location. It's described in next-to-last-chapter in case you want to sneak a peek at your B&N. (Now I see a description and photos (French text) of it on their web site). (Edited by robert brown at 1:14 pm on Oct. 23, 2001) (Edited by robert brown at 1:26 pm on Oct. 23, 2001)

I'm working on the Michel Guerard place. It's called "Le Huchet", but nothing in Google about it. There is an area called "Le Courant de Huchet". I'll wait until I put my hands on the Mayle book in a little while, I hope.

You mean like Blanc in Vonnas? Or does it have to be on the Atlantic Coast or SW?

My wife came across a small place Michel Guerard has by the sea with six rooms and a dining room while she was reading Mayle's "French Lessons". (Sometimes you can find good-sounding things in bad books). But is the place really good? Anyone been there or heard anything about it? (Edited by robert brown at 8:53 am on Oct. 23, 2001)

I completely forgot that I had lunch at Cafe Boulud about three years ago. It was pretty mediocre. Apparently it has gotten better as I'm not willing to bet against the consensus. As much as I would like to go back, I'll never get my wife to try it since when it was plain Daniel, they tried to hustle us out at the end of the first seating; something she's never forgotten. I guess a lot has changed in three years. Anyway, we've settled on Gallagher's after a really good steak quite some time ago. You don't suppose it's underrated?

I have to take some people out for dinner who are treating us to a big night on Broadway. What's CB like price-wise? With thanks in advance. What else do you like in or near the theatre district? Robert (Edited by robert brown at 9:28 am on Oct. 22, 2001)

Jon, does one name redress an imbalance? Do you think that's all she wrote? How was the party? At least some people in London are cheery.

Here's something I hope Jay or Stephen will tackle. Why aren't there any (or very few) women restaurant reviewers in the UK? Here in the US we have had several stylish ones such as Ruth Reichl, Gael Green, Mimi Sherton, Moira Hodgson and others. I could also bring up the question of do women have more sensitive palates than men. ( I recall that Michel Lorain's wife once beat out a group of male chefs and winemakers in a wine identification contest) and why restaurant reviewing is a male bastion in the UK. Yet, the opposite may be true in the wine field in that two of the best known writers/tasters in the UK are women: Jancis Robinson (who, if you ever noticed on the drive out to JFK, has a highway named after her) and Serena Sutcliffe. Go figure. (Edited by robert brown at 11:23 am on Oct. 20, 2001)

Steven, the only NY reviewers I read are you and Grimes. Who else would you include besides Gael Greene? Do you count Asimov, Underground Gourmet, and the occasional articles by Apple, Trillin,etc. Also regular magazine guys like Gold. I think we need to diffentiate between restaurant reviewers and essayist or gastronomic writers. How do you break it down? See you on the NY restaurant review thread later today. (Edited by robert brown at 11:09 am on Oct. 20, 2001)

Not having eaten at The Fat Duck or El Bulli, I'm in no position empirically to know the nature of the alleged lack of originality or plagirism that the posters are talking about; but is there some reason way the situation here is any different than in creative endeavors generally? Is what Blumenthal is accused of being any different than what a young Mozart might have been accused of vis a vis Franz Joseph Haydn? And don't early Beethoven quartets sound a lot like late Mozart ones? Also, the discussion reminds me of when in the mid-1970s one could go to Michel Guerard's and have the Troisgros Bros. "Saumon a l'oseille", Bocuse's "Soupe de truffes a Valerie Giscard d'Estaing and a few other dishes by Guerard's 'Nouvelle Cuisine" colleagues. In this instance, however, this special part of the printed menu was identified as a tribute to these chefs. Maybe the problem is that Blumenthal isn't giving credit where credit is due, but borrowing or being unduly influenced by contemporaneous colleagues or even competitors is a natural step in a gifted talent eventually finding his own muse. I assume that Blumenthal is still a young chef, and if form holds true, he will hit his creative peak somewhere between 32 and as late as 40. The only caveat I can think of is that if you're going to cop someone's idea, make sure you do it just as well. Let me know if there is something in the argument that I missed as I am too lazy to review the thread. (Edited by robert brown at 4:38 pm on Oct. 19, 2001)

What I want to know is what Heston Blumenthal can do to a kreplach.

Alain Chapel in the early-mid 1970s served "foie de lotte" with black turnips. I remember a vinegar taste as well. The liver tasted quite a bit like that of a duck, but with a firmer texture. It's certainly worth exploringl. Let us know what happens. (Edited by robert brown at 12:45 am on Oct. 19, 2001)

Mike, something I forgot to mention is that once you find a place that lets you bring in your wine "gratis" or for a small amount, besides letting the service people taste it, leave a generous tip. Some friends who live in Middletown, Rumsen, Little Silver area took me to a specialty food place called Sickles (Syckles?) It seemed to be on a decent level with a lot of stuff.

Now you guys got me all confused. Is it "Blue Danube Waltz" or "The Blue Danube Waltz?" And guess what. Is it pronounced "Dan-yoob" or "Danoob"? I'm serious because I chastized a friend who pronounced it "Danoob" (She is a non-German speaking American), but a few weeks later I heard a German friend say "Danoob" as well. Peter W., how about some help?

Steven, I have yet to encounter a waiter/waitress or sommelier refuse a taste of a wine I have brought with me, but I'm not talking about a lot of restaurants. What you said, however, is certainly true. I think that offering your wine works best in second-tier and neighborhood restaurants. I have the impression that Italian restaurants are the toughest about bringing your own.

Felonious, welcome aboard. It looks like you're a real die-hard who's going to put up some great posts. Just curious, though: Do you have a last name? Okay, now for the matter at hand. After much contemplation and hesitation, I've decided to reveal my secret about getting ahead in the world of corkage. It's a move that works best when you're trying to establish a corkage foothold in a restaurant that you plan to eat at with some frequency, and it may hasten the day when you can bring in your wine for free. Also, I would only do this at restaurants whose corkage fee does not exceed ษ. The secret then is: Let the person who serves you your wine drink some. Call me BYOB instead of Robert.

Pat, did you catch yesterday's Financial Times? Nice story on the mushroom cuisine at L'Auberge de Cimes. Maybe you can grab it off the FT.Com website. Bon Voyage again, Robert

Andy, having recently returned from the latest of several trips to Japan, but the first ever to Bangkok and Cambodia, I have to say that Asian food (and eating in Bangkok was extraordinary), like many others, doesn't travel well. To me, fusion food and even "pure" Japanese and Thai, especially Thai, in NYC or London, is a far cry from the original. I hadn't realized that Asian ingredients and approaches are such a big deal in London. To me, this kind of cooking is as much to cover up lack of technique than anything else. (Coincidently enough, sorrel sauce symbolized for me the hallmark sauce of "La Nouvelle Cuisine" and the kind of thing aspiring chefs, if they have the ability should aim to create. And To her credit, Regina Schamblings refers to it). The heart of the matter is that cuisine has become part of the popular culture and not any longer limited to gastronomes; so, of course, ignorant and indiscriminating people can be led around by the nose as restaurant fads and fashions come and go with the regularity and duration of styles in fashion, industrial design, and what have you. London has always struck me as a place that has this tendency is extreme than lots of other big cities. Anyway, I have a friend here who makes a point of flying to London every fall to have grouse at the Connaught.

If you want graphic evidence that a proverbial paradigm shift is unfolding in NYC dining, take a look at this week’s NYT food section. This week’s “Rambling with Schambling” story is about the return of classic sauces; the well-done report by Amanda Hesser documents the financial hardships of several high-profile restaurants; and Grimes’ restaurant review gives no quarter to any restaurateur who tries to transplant an ethnic cuisine without notable regard for freshness and authenticity. Does anyone out there have an idea of where New York restauration may be heading? Is Fusion finished? Will luxury dining be like it was in the 1960s and 1970s; i.e. mostly French as was Café Chauveron, Lutece, La Grenouille, Cote Basque, etc? Will the kind of restaurants Jane and Michael Stern write about dominate the NYC restaurant scene along with French bistro-type places? Will the big-name chefs trim their sails in all respects? And will the people who were hyping New York as the “restaurant capital of the world” dust off their yellow Michelin Maps once the skys are safe for democracy? Or do you think this is a short-term blip after which things will return to how they were six months ago?