Just my 2 cents as a new poster that ate at Per Se a couple years ago, I find the original story of somebody being rushed through in 2 hours highly unlikely, as a nobody the meal I had lasted 3+ hours and included a brief tour of the kitchen, albeit the meal was for lunch, but I can't imagine such a polished establishment trying to get somebody through in less than 3 hours, especially with their menu. In addition, the idea that either European or American restaurants at a high level are more or less formal in the dress code seems unlikely, it almost has to be a case by case basis. While at Jean-Georges when visiting NYC colleges, at a 5:30 pre-theater seating with an almost empty room, they called me out on putting my blazer on the chair.