Simon_S
-
Posts
690 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Store
Help Articles
Posts posted by Simon_S
-
-
Regarding the wine thing, there could be two explanations. Daniel is known for trying to turn tables, so that may be it. More likley, however, is that they were going out of their way to make sure you didn't feel neglected. People often do order bottles of wine before they know what they're eating, which I personally find very strange, but at least by asking they're not leaving you without the option to order (and spend more money).
That sounds perfectly reasonable, and given the fact that I had looked at it and then put it down, that could easily be considered as a sign that I wanted to order something.
One point I should have included in my comments above is that we never felt even the slightest bit rushed. Not prior to ordering, not during service, not after dinner. For my money, the pacing was just right.
Si
-
Some of my fondest memories involve summer days spent quaffing copious amouts of Pimms No. 1 Cup with close friends.
...and getting half a tan as the sun moves across the sky on one side and you sit in the same position all day long.
Count me in as a Pimms believer. I love the stuff, and relish that first taste of outdoor Pimms every summer. Croquet always seems far too active a pastime to accompany the drink.
Si
-
I have little to add to the above.
Great. Thanks!
I feel a little awkward about this, not least because I don't want to be that tourist who flies in and pisses all over a cherished NY dining institution on the basis of one visit. Nor do I want to hint that "European dining is just so much better" which I think I'm dangerously close to doing with my Michelin comments. If it reads that way, it shouldn't.
Si
-
The next day, I awoke with a hint of heartburn. This wouldn't be all that unusual for me, and was fairly unsurprising given the excess of our last few days. Still, where normally a couple of Zantak would bring it under control straightaway, on this day it just seemed to get worse and worse, and by the time I sat down for dinner in Daniel I knew I was in for an interesting night. It would be an exaggeration to say that every bite was a trial, but my usual enthusiasm was certainly somewhat dampened. Still, it was Hazel's birthday and we were going to have the taster menu, so I struggled gamely on!!
On arrival, I was fairly impressed with the meet n' greet and the general vibe of the place. This was certainly a cut above our other dining experiences in terms of atmosphere and I did a fair bit of gawking at jewellery and attire as we sat in the bar area munching addictive black olive grissini and drinking our champagne. I certainly wouldn't mind having this restaurant as my local eatery! When we were shown to the table, I thought the room looked very comfortable, even if our table was quite definitely not in the big-hitters section. Unfortunately, I was right beside a pillar so couldn't see much of the place. Of course, I only had eyes for Hazel anyway...
We were handed a wine list, which was as thorough as I was anticipating, and we both had a brief enough glance through before putting it to one side. I was surprised and, to tell the truth, a bit perturbed when I was asked by a waiter if I had decided on a wine. I told him, with as much politeness as I could muster, that I wouldn't be in a position to choose a wine until we had decided what we were going to eat. At this point, I stress, we each had a glass of champagne in front of us and we hadn't even seen a menu. Genuinely puzzled at this turn of events, I watched as the "tented table" filled up with 4 guests, the wine list was perused by one of them, and a bottle of red was ordered and served before menus were presented to them. Seriously, am I missing something here? Is this normal?
After all this, we decided to go the taster+pairings route. As alluded to above, the format of the taster at Daniel is that every course has a choice of 2 dishes. In many cases, we tried to order both dishes between us, except for a few that didn't take our fancy. Bread was served (a good selection) and butter (which I didn't really enjoy) and we were underway.
The first wine was selected from a nearby bucket and brought to the table. To my surprise, the waiter pouring didn't wipe it, and instead the bottle dripped onto the table, and more importantly all over the bread on Hazel's side plate. The same waiter, on serving us brioche with our foie gras course, dumped it slap-bang into the butter on both of our side plates. I wasn't in the mood for kicking up a fuss, and maybe these are small issues, but I wasn't very impressed. We got through the remainder of the meal without further incident, but those opening moments left a somewhat bad impression, so the restaurant was always playing catch-up in my mind.
Early on in the meal, I returned from the men's room to find Hazel deep in conversation with one of the waiters. He was an extremely nice chap and had been asking about our stay in NY. He was greatly impressed by our itinerary, once again asked how we'd managed to choose "all the good places", and said he'd have to tell the chef to be on the top of his game. He then asked us about other restaurants we'd been to, and we told him that last year our food pilgrimage had been to Lyon. Now, as you know, Daniel Boulud is originally from Lyon, so the waiter (wish I'd caught his name) said he'd have to tell the chef that also.
Sure enough, a little while later extra courses and wines started appearing. Under normal circumstances, I'd be delighted at such treatment, and of course we were flattered, but by this point my heartburn issues were really starting to make their presence felt, and I was finding things very difficult. By the time we got through the cheese, dessert and and the extra comped dessert, I was a beaten, broken man! I share this info because it certainly affected my enjoyment of the evening, and probably affected my views on the food itself. What follows should be read with this fact in mind...
What did I think of the meal? Truthfully, I was disappointed. I would describe the cooking as solid, the ingredients as fairly normal quality, and the service as somewhat uneven. At no point did I get that wow factor when something knocks you for six. At no point did I eat a bite and think "that's the best quality scallop/salmon/foie gras/carrot/whatever" I ever had. At no point did I feel that the FOH were truly in control and that I could just sit back in the knowledge that everything would run seamlessly. Everything we ate was good of course, there were no notable failures, and some things were very enjoyable, but I expected more.
My initial exposure to Daniel was when Michelin released their first red guide to NY. As I said somewhere upthread, I read a lot of articles that basically said if Daniel isn't a 3-star restaurant, then Michelin doesn't get NY. If that's the case, then I don't get it either! My experience there was a solid, straight-down-the-middle Michelin 2-star, no more.
Our exit kind of summed up our night. We paid our bill (having tipped well) stood up and left. Nobody wished us a pleasant evening, nobody asked if we had enjoyed ourselves, in fact, nobody said anything at all. I don't need to be fawned over, and I'm quite happy to just get up and go, but for a restaurant of this calibre I was surprised that they don't get the little things right. EMP for example was a whole different ballgame in this regard.
In many ways Daniel felt like a private members' club that I had been allowed into for the evening. The tables seemed to be filled with regulars who could be seen hugging various members of staff and who were visited by the chef on his rounds (our table wasn't included in his perambulations). I'm smart enough to realise that people like me aren't really their primary earner, I'm never going to spend enough there to put their kids through college, but I was somewhat surprised at the 2-tier feeling. Of course, on the other hand we were comped extra courses, and some of the waiters were genuinely warm, friendly and interested, so maybe I'm just being silly.
Look, I was very cranky that night, and I'm probably being overly harsh. Hazel, have you anything to add that might temper this criticism a little? I still can't quite get my thoughts on the place straight in my mind.
-
I'm not of the mindset that a creative dish need be better than its parts or alternatives, but it should be at least as good with the manipulation itself making points for wit or real creativity. That is where I think the creativity at WD-50 really succeeds.
Doc, I thought of you often during our night at WD-50, and I was almost sorry to have to report our mixed feelings back to you! I totally agree with your point above that a dish can score points for wit or creativity without having to surpass the original, and I have argued as much with nay-sayers in the past. Indeed, some of the dishes at WD-50 did exactly that for me, the tongue being the most obvious example that comes to mind.
Again, I wouldn't like to give the impression to the casual reader that I thought this was a poor meal, because it certainly wasn't. Where the difficulty arises for me is that, with this food, there's always something of a risk that you won't like the taste/mouthfeel/experience of something, and that your ability to "expect" this reaction is less than at a standard restaurant.
If I saw a dish of celery and cucumber on a menu, I wouldn't order it because I don't like either ingredient. If I order a dish that I later discover has either as part of it, I'll subconsciously temper my expectations of taste accordingly, and I can decide whether or not I enjoy the dish within that expectation. Similarly if I order foie gras, I generally know what to expect. If I don't enjoy it, it's normally a question of poor execution or poor ingredients. Here, my dislike of the foie gras dish was not due to poor execution, nor poor ingredients, I just didn't like it! I didn't like the mouthfeel and I didn't really like the flavour, but hand on heart, I would have to say this is purely a personal preference. Someone else could sit beside me, have exactly the same dish and love it, and I'd have very little to argue with them about.
So with another menu, or maybe if we'd ordered a la carte, it's possible I'd be on here raving that WD-50 is the best restaurant in NY. I certainly would encourage those who feel they might enjoy it to go for it.
Si
-
Thanks to all for the feedback. J-G was indeed $28 for 2 courses and $12 for each additional. Naturally, by the time we were done we'd spent way more than that, but it's a good start and it means you can splash out a bit on the wine if you're so inclined. I'm told it also means 2 people can eat well and get in and out for less than $100, but I find that hard to believe.
Mr. K, don't go ruining my cred here. I *AM* baller, dammit!
To get back to my ramblings then, having eaten our fill at Momo Ssam, we walked the few blocks to Death & Co.. Not being familiar with NY, I was convinced I had the wrong address since the surrounding area was fairly quiet and residential, but no, there it was in all its understated glory. Even though we weren't sure we had the energy, our walk and the chill of the night had restored our spirits somewhat, so in we went "for one". Once my eyes had responded to the dim lighting, I found myself sitting at the bar in a much smaller room than I would ever have anticipated. This was my kind of place: somewhat muted conversation, decent jazz playing, and a bar filled to bursting with interesting looking bottles.
Not being a cocktail aficionado, I decided I'd just let the barman do his stuff within a few broad parameters. Nothing too sweet, don't care what alcohol, just bring it on. We were treated to a masterclass of cocktail preparation before our very eyes. I don't think I've ever seen drinks prepared with such a combination of reverence and style. Unfortunately none of them were for us! Two drinks appeared courtesy of the other barman, and I hadn't been watching him so I had no idea what went into them. Still, what I had was rye-based, and had a great combination of strength and smoothness, which is not my usual "cocktail" experience. We sat and supped, happily watching the show in front of us, and then decided it would be rude just to have the one, so we asked for another. Our barman served up a derivation of my first drink named a Red Hook, which was probably even better than the first.
We got talking and when it came up that we were over from Ireland, we got the by now familiar question "How did you hear about us?" They were quite amused when I said I knew all about them, and about the various licensing issues they had been dealing with. I'm delighted that such problems are now sorted. In any case, I can't remember the last time I met such friendly mixologists as Bryan and Joachim (sp?) We had a great chat, and they told us various other locations we should check out, barmen we should look out for, even giving us some hints on getting in to Milk and Honey. Sadly, we never got a chance to sample their suggestions, but I truly don't think I could have enjoyed them as much as I enjoyed Death & Co. It's the kind of place I'd only tell my very best friends about, lest it become overrun with noisy beer-swilling ruffians (see Pegu Club report later on!) We loved this place, and it will be on the itinerary for our next visit.
Si
-
The one and only time I ate at FD we ordered ALC, and I still regret it. With the exception of the bacon and egg ice cream, most of the dishes I had were nothing to write home about. They weren't in any way bad, just fairly standard fare. There is no doubt in my mind that if and when I get the chance to return I'll go for the taster menu. I don't think there's any shame in wanting to sample dishes that I've heard and read about, and it's not merely to tick it off some imaginary list.
Of course if the hoi polloi continue to order the taster menu, then obviously the real connoisseur has to do something else. In fact, only the basest savage orders off the printed menu at all. The exalted few know the secret handshake and the password that unlocks the door to the REAL kitchen...
Si
-
It's a bizarre experience setting an alarm for 2:30am to get up and have dinner. Granted, local time insisted it was only 9:30pm, but I knew different. We woke totally disorientated, not hungry, and very reluctant to do anything. For any other restaurant I simply wouldn't have bothered, but Hazel reminded me how much I was looking forward to this, so I tore myself from the mattress and off we went to Momofuku Ssam Bar. As soon as I opened the door I knew we'd done the right thing leaving our bed. Two chairs were vacant right at the counter, the place was alive and buzzing and our appetites were rapidly returning.
Having been told to ask for Cory by our server the previous evening at WD-50, we did exactly that and he pointed out some menu items that he felt were particularly good. He was a very friendly chap, and took great interest in our projected itinerary. Like many, he was impressed that we'd even heard of Momo Ssam. Where would we be with eGullet, eh? After much deliberation, we decided to go for hamachi, steamed buns, hangar steak ssam, brussels sprouts and sweetbreads. Having had sweetbreads earlier at J-G, I was somewhat reluctant, but Cory was very positive about them. I've never had sweetbreads twice in the one day before, but hey, it was that kind of trip.
The hamachi arrived first, and it was tasty enough, although maybe not really our cup of tea. We polished it off nonetheless and waited for the remaining dishes, all of which arrived together in a mini-feast. And what a feast it was. It's hard to describe the ecstasy that greet every bite, but this was just astonishingly tasty food. The sprouts and the sweetbreads were awesomely good, the steamed buns totally delicious and the ssam (despite my inability to eat it with even basic competence) extremely enjoyable. Given the lateness of the hour and our lack of hunger, we had thought we wouldn't be able to eat much. How silly of us! By the time we finished that little haul I knew I needed to taste something else, so we ordered a clay pot to share. I'm still fantasizing about the sauce contained therein such was its richness of flavour. Hazel wished she could do it more justice, but by then she was beaten. I put in a valiant effort with the clay pot, but I knew there was no room for anything resembling dessert.
Still, mindful of the fact that nights in NY are scarce, and buoyed up with enthusiasm from a marvellous day of eating, we decided we'd walk in the direction of Death & Co. If we felt up to it when we got there, we'd pop in for just the one...
-
Having been awakened at odd hours by our off-kilter bodyclocks, we had a tasty enough breakfast at the hotel (the Mercer), explored a little bit of Soho, and then caught a cab to midtown for lunch at Jean-Georges. We arrived a little early, so we took the opportunity to check out the Time Warner centre. Well, we would have done if Hazel hadn't been distracted by the Hugo Boss shop on the way in, but we did at least get to see the hallowed portals of Per Se, Masa, etc. That's certainly the flashest shopping mall dining I've ever seen.
Once inside Jean-Georges, deposited as we were at the bar (again supping a glass of bubbly) I was somewhat alarmed when I took in our surroundings, not to mention the food that other diners were eating. This wasn't really what I was expecting, and I had a moment of paranoia that I hadn't specified the dining room and that we were going to end up in Nougatine instead. My nerves were calmed when we were led into the restaurant proper, and shown to our most excellent alcove table which allowed us to look out into the room and indulge in some serious people watching. The highlight of this was probably the very well-to-do table in front of us, chock full of face-lifts, expensive bags and designer labels. Imagine my amusement when I saw the sommelier pouring one of Huia's wines for them. Now, Huia make perfectly nice wines, but a bottle costs about a tenner and is quite at home accompanying popcorn in front of the TV. I didn't feel nearly so bad about my more modest attire when I saw that...
The menu, when presented, caused us any number of problems, mainly because we wanted to eat everything. Having decided to add a course to the usual 3, we still managed to mis-count and were nearly ordering 4 savoury courses each. We eventually settled on sea urchin, foie gras brulee and sweetbreads for me; skate in butter and Chablis, langoustine ravioli (?) plus another seafood dish that's slipped my mind (scallops maybe?) for Hazel. We also opted for a cheese course because we'd seen the trolley doing the rounds earlier and wanted a piece of the action. Our interaction with the sommelier was most positive, leading to a bottle of Chassagne Montrachet (or was it Meursault) and a half bottle of red Burgundy, the details of which are lost to the ether. Combined with the champagne on arrival and the glasses of port we had with the cheese, you won't be too surprised to hear that the exact details of this meal are something of a blur. In fact, we can't even remember whether we had cheese instead of dessert or as well as dessert. Shame on us. I think it was probably as well as, in which case I almost certainly threw a glass of sweet wine into the mix. I think it's important when abroad to uphold the stereotype of the drunken Irish, and we did an admirable job here...
Despite the fuzziness on the details, I remember for certain that this was a cracking lunch, and left us with that nice warm glow that only the most successful meals can provide. Everything I ate I enjoyed, from the bread to the amuses, through the various courses, the cheese and all the way to the delicious marshmallow cut at the table. I'm smiling as I remember it. Interestingly, I found that in many of my dishes, heat (of chilli/wasabi) played an important role, and this was a first for me in this kind of restaurant. If I had a criticism it would be that such flavours sometimes lingered a little too long and became the dominant impression of a dish, but I'm really nitpicking here. Really, everything was delicious, service was fantastic and not at all stuffy, and we positively danced out into Central Park afterwards. I wish I could say more and be even the tiniest bit specific but, well, you know...
The experience was very different to a 3 (Michelin) star restaurant in Europe, and I found myself wondering if it was at the same level. In the end I decided that it probably was, although I'd love to go back for dinner to see what it can do. Of course, it goes without saying that for the prices being charged, lunch there is ridiculously good value -- stupidly so, in fact. I'll be doing it again.
In our deliriously happy state post-meal we stumbled into Tiffany's where we nearly crowned the moment by blowing the budget completely. Thankfully, we both saw the light just in time and floated off to the Trump Bar to recover and calm our nerves. Sadly, my peaceful state of mind was totally shattered by a visit to the Abercrombie shop on 5th Ave. Dear lord it was like a nightclub in there, and I felt very much like a lecherous dirty old man. That was a sure sign that I was returning to normal and the booze was wearing off, so after more shopping it was home for another nap (damn that jetlag) and onwards to Momofuku Ssam.
-
WD-50 was a restaurant I was really looking forward to in many ways, but in other ways somewhat concerned about. I always have this fear when going to a very creative restaurant such as this that I'll be given a parade of ingredients that I don't really care for, or that I won't be sophisticated enough to get the "joke" or spot the intellectual aspect of the dishes. I felt this way prior to Alinea and el Bulli, but in both cases I need not have worried. However, having read some of the comments here and elsewhere, I wasn't so sure how WD-50 would stack up.
On arrival we were very surprised at how relaxed, small and "cool" the restaurant is. Somehow, I was expecting Alinea-lite, but that idea was dispelled within seconds. Another notable thing (to us) was that we would have to wait a couple of minutes for our table. Of course, this didn't bother us in any way shape or form, and we cheerfully sat at the bar and supped champagne, but it was a common enough occurrence over the next few days that I specifically noticed it. It served as a little reminder that we weren't in Europe anymore. It's always the little differences...
We knew in advance we were getting the tasting menu with wine pairings, so we wasted no time in ordering it, and the kitchen wasted no time in getting it out to us. We were continually surprised by how quickly food came out, which admittedly seemed in keeping with the atmosphere of the place. This wasn't fine dining in the conventional sense, but the pacing suited us very well given the impending jetlag.
Unfortunately, I can't remember the specifics of everything we ate (Hazel may be able to fill in later) but on balance I would have to say it was somewhat hit and miss. There were several courses that I enjoyed (the squab, the popcorn, the miso with noodles, the desserts) but there were some that just didn't work for me. The least successful IMHO was the "foie gras in the round" dish. With a texture not dissimilar to a bowl of rice crispies and a flavour with a strangely metallic tang, I found myself thinking that maybe this whole modern thing wasn't all it was cracked up to be. I could see no way in which the foie gras was "improved" by this preparation, and the mantra "don't f**k with the foie" kept circling around my head. Certainly, it was technically impressive, and I can't in any way fault the execution of the dish, but I just didn't find it tasty. Of course, YMMV, and I wouldn't dream of suggesting that it was in any way bad, but I was disappointed. Even the dishes I enjoyed I didn't really love, and I wouldn't say I have any overwhelming desire to eat them again. It's purely a question of taste, of course, but WD-50 didn't entirely bowl me over.
It sounds harsh to say it, but in many ways this was the most disappointing meal of the trip. We enjoyed the experience, we're glad we went, we had a good time, some of the food was impressive, but our expectations weren't really met. Whether that was a function of too-high expectations or of the meal itself is hard to say, but Alinea-lite it ain't. The wine pairings were reasonably enjoyable (if somewhat pedestrian) and the service was really friendly and perfectly competent. Our server, on hearing the "food pilgrimage" nature of our trip, was kind enough to suggest a few other restaurants, telling us people to ask for in said restaurants and to mention his name. I certainly couldn't fault the friendliness here.
In short then, I can see why people really rate WD-50, and I can see why people really don't rate WD-50. Given the multitude of restaurants in NY, I don't see myself going back, but in many ways that's a shame. I suspect that on another night, with a different menu, the experience could be different. For now though, it was back to the hotel before I fell out of my standing, my plans to go for after-dinner drinks postponed for now. Sleep was required, and I needed to make sure we were awake in time for lunch at Jean-Georges.
-
Well, we're back from our trip, and I have to say we had a really fantastic time. Knowing a little bit about restaurants in advance makes a huge difference of course, and I found it quite entertaining finding places whose names I knew merely from lurking here. For example, at one point we were walking down a street and saw Michael Stipe (which is kinda cool), then on the next corner I spotted Spotted Pig. You know you're a true eGulleteer when you're more excited about passing Spotted Pig than Michael Stipe. Being based in Soho (rather than mid-town) also made a huge difference to our experience, and we saw a totally different NY this time. It was really great.
We didn't take any pictures or notes during meals, so I can't offer a blow-by-blow account of our dining experiences. The best I can do is share a vague and fuzzy impression of our experiences as I remember them, and then maybe one or two general thoughts which may or may not be representative. I'm warning you here and now that this is going to be somewhat meandering. Early on I decided that I had to stop thinking of meals there in terms of a later eGullet report (which I admit is very selfish of me
) so what follows won't reach the dizzying heights of some other trip reports posted on eGulletOkay then, our flight landed somewhat ahead of schedule, and the cab ride into Manhattan was quicker than I was expecting, so we found ourselves checked into the hotel around late-lunchtime. Hazel had a quick look at a map I'd printed out which had various likely restaurants marked on it. She pointed to one and said "let's walk to there", and so it was that a mere 2 hours after landing in NY we found ourselves in Katz's Deli. It struck me as I ordered my pastrami on rye and tipped the counterman that I really was glad I knew what I was doing, and that we had arrived at a very quiet time. It was pretty obvious the tourist element was very low, and that there were mainly locals there. I found it confusing enough as it was, and I was glad we weren't part of a 200 strong bus tour!
For a nervous pastrami virgin like myself, that first taste as offered by the counterman was something of a revelation. Prior to the trip, I genuinely was not expecting to enjoy or finish the sandwich, but I tucked in and demolished it fairly quickly. Simple but great stuff, and nothing we could ever get at home. Hazel had ordered a hot-dog to be on the safe side but she definitely regretted it. I gave her a small bite of my sandwich, but to those posters above who suggested sharing...no way!!
Feeling thoroughly sated, we set out on foot and took a large arc back to our hotel, going past WD-50 (checking it's location for later) through some of the Lower East Side and on into Chinatown and Little Italy. It struck us that on that short walk we saw more restaurants than many small cities have altogether. We arrived back to the hotel around 5:30, which gave us just enough time to have a nap and prepare ourselves for a 9:30 reservation at WD-50.
(more to follow...)
-
In many ways it's hard to see why Thornton's is suffering from the no customer/no buzz problem. Previously I would have said that price was the barrier, but Chapter One is booked out months in advance at the moment and nobody seems to baulk at the prices there. It's a shame really, because I think there's some genuinely good food to be eaten here, and some really good cooking on display.
The thing is, leaving aside all considerations of refurbs, canapés, PR etc. it's worrying that the restaurant isn't doing great business in this climate. It always seem to be just off the radar, even amongst those in the know. It could be that the sense there's no "craic" to be had whatsoever is continuing to be a problem. Certainly, when the restaurant is full and everything's working smoothly, there's a very enjoyable atmosphere, and the staff aren't nearly as straight-laced as their reputation would suggest. We had a lot of laughs with them on our last visit. Still, that was a Saturday night. When people are there, it's quite lively, but it's just not achieving that critical mass at all times.
I can't disagree with your assessment of the atmosphere, Corinna, but I think the canapé area *could* work if it just caught on. Granted, it needs to be better lit, and the location beside the door to the kitchen is not ideal, but I think if the vibe was right if would be easy to put up with such things. I have to say, when there I wished they would tone down the service end a little. The idea of casual canapés is somewhat ruined when the linens and silverware are the same as you would get in the dining room, and food is served with a similar reverence. It's a fine line, of course, you don't want stuff thrown at you and paper napkins from a dispenser, but somehow the canapé concept is falling between two stools at the moment. It's neither nibbles-while-you-chuck-back-the-booze, nor is it fine dining. Of course, I think it's still *good* which is enough to sway it for me, but probably not enough for most.
Incidentally, if you're genuinely hungry and looking to turn the canapés into a meal it can indeed be done, but it really requires the judicious addition of cheese/dessert. It won't quite bring you up to dinner prices, but you'll be spending enough to get a decent meal elsewhere. The canapés would probably be better served as an accompaniment to drinks, but the lack of atmosphere more-or-less rules it out as a location for this. I still believe if that changed, and things became busy and buzzy, that really would be a possibility, and quite a pleasant way to start an evening out.
At the moment I doubt there are many people who have been for canapés but who have never eaten in the restaurant proper. That's pure speculation of course, but I don't think they're bringing in a new and different clientele with this idea. I think if that changed, things might be different and the atmosphere would improve. Time will tell.
One more thing… the piece also mentions that Thornton hopes to open restaurants in other parts of the world (no indications of where) and wanted a design ”that would create a strong identity.” Hmmm…East (and I don't mean UK) would seem to be a safe bet.
Nettle and Bombay Sapphire sorbet...with a little gin poured on at the table which I think was aimed to impress. It didn't.I really enjoyed the sorbet I must admit, and I don't normally like gin. I certainly thought it was very refreshing.
Si
-
Yeah, I couldn't find the link on unison.ie either, but I thought I must be missing something. I'll keep an eye out for it.
I quite enjoy Tullio's positivity, as that's the way I try to approach restaurants myself. Still, sometimes he could be a little more discerning. He reminds me of that Simpsons episode where Homer becomes a restaurant critic.
Si
-
No surprises in Dublin alright, although it's good to see Mint included with the other "Big 4". I've seen mixed reactions to Mint on other websites recently, so I'm still not sure that the punters are impressed, but ultimately I don't care! I still think it's great, and recent dinners in other serious restaurants internationally have persuaded me once again that the man deserves at least one star for his efforts.
I'm not sure about Paulo's suggestions outside of the big smoke. Dunbrody is certainly good, but it's a bit of a stretch to say it would be outstanding wherever it was. As for Wineport, well, I really really enjoyed a weekend there, but the food wasn't the highlight, and nor was the wine list. The ability to totter out onto the lakeshore when the eating becomes too much is certainly a bonus, but I wouldn't consider this a truly great restaurant.
Is there a link to the full article, Corinna?
Si
-
That's funny because I can't recall even once in my life reserving a table with the words "I give you my solemn pledge, my wife and I will be there at 7:30", usually I just say that I would like a table for two at 7:30 and the reservationist tells me if that's possible.
Yes yes, but just because there's no "solemn pledge" it doesn't mean that manners have to go out out the window. It may be "acceptable" to some to simply not turn up, or to cancel too late for the restaurant to fill the booking, but it's hardly exemplary behaviour, especially when a little thoughtfulness would have nipped the issue in the bud.
I'm not accusing you of this, rcianci, you sound altogether civilised, but the fact remains that people do this, think it's okay, and don't spare a thought for what it means for the restaurant or for others who have been turned away. I don't think it's right to shrug your shoulders and say tough shit, if the restaurant doesn't like it they shouldn't offer reservations. Again, that may be the position taken by many, but it's hardly the best possible way the customer could act. Whether it's malicious or not is irrelevant if it has a knock-on effect. Is it too much to ask that individuals think about the effect their actions have, or is that simply irrelevant when dealing with a business? Personally, I think it's important, and even more so when dealing with a small restaurant with limited covers. As I said above, if everyone took that attitude the restaurant wouldn't stay in business for long, and then it's not just the restaurant's problem, it's a problem for everyone who wants to eat there.
Si
-
I'm going out in Dublin tomorrow night (the traveller returns) with a group of about 15 people, we have a 7-9pm booking.
Where you off to?
-
Thanking you!
-
If I may interject on the subject of reservation times, a situation which can often arise is that a restaurant will become fully booked on a first come-first served basis and give people a reservation for their preferred time.
After that, rather than turn away business and disappoint people, they may re-book the tables that were previously reserved for say 9pm and inform people that they need the table back.
Patrick, that's a very good point, and is a common situation I imagine. That doesn't bother me at all really, and I've taken advantage of such last minute windows of opportunity on a few occasions.
I don't like to speak for HannaBanana, but I know it's the 7pm or 9pm thing that really gets her goat, and many restaurants have taken this approach of late. This isn't the same as having a table reserved for 8 that somebody else can have until that time. It's a little more cynical than that I think.
Of course, if I'm in the situation where I'm told the restaurant needs the table back by a certain time, I tell them straightaway that it's no problem as long as they're capable of that. The limiting factor in such circumstances is rarely the customer. We have a few horror stories of being left for half an hour before our orders were taken, then incredibly long delays between courses, and finally being kicked out before dessert or coffee. If you're going to impose a 2 hour limit, you're going to have to ensure that the kitchen can feed people within that timescale.
Si
-
In a lot of places, the 6-8 slot is for "early bird" dining, which might have a limited menu at a cheaper price. Not always, of course, and as HannaBanana pointed out, many places are doing sittings as a matter of course. I try not to go to such places! I suppose the unwritten rule is that we're inclined to eat a little later over here, so if you want the table for the night you need to book a later table. When you ask for something like 6pm, most restaurants are going to try to turn that before the primetime 8pm - 9pm slot. It doesn't make it right, but it's understandable.
Reading between the lines of your post, I get the feeling that you didn't find much by way of great service. Is that fair to say? I don't want to put words into your mouth, of course, by I'm quite interested in this. I regularly find myself saying things like "they'd never put up with this in the US" while at restaurants here, and it makes me a little sad. Of course, I don't want to paint all restaurants this way, but I think as the standard of cooking is improving here, the standard of service is going the other way. I'd be interested in your thoughts on this.
Si
-
Brief aside: the whole tipping in bars thing confuses me greatly, and I never know how much to leave. How much would one be expected to tip in an establishment such as Death & Co (or Pegu for that matter)? I'm sorry to ask this here, but I don't want to let myself down!
Si
-
After some initial resistance, I've started to quite enjoy sherry in some settings.
Don't fight it. Life is easier this way.
-
Nitro-Scrambled Egg and Bacon Ice Cream, Pain Perdu and tea jelly
NV, Buller, Fine Old Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria
More dinner theater. A delicious pain perdu, bacon ice cream, and candied "bacon".
Well, this answers one of my questions upthread: Does the tweaking of the menu lead to significant differences to the diner? In this case, this is wildly different (in appearance at least) to the bacon and egg ice-cream I enjoyed a couple of years ago. There was no candied bacon, and the egg didn't look anything like the scrambled egg here. In truth, this looks way cooler than the dish I had.
Si
-
Yay! Go!
Okay! I will then!
Just booked it, so next on my agenda is persuading everyone in my party of 6 to go for the taster menu. I won't hold my breath for that. At the very least, it will mean a return visit will definitely be required.
Can't wait.
Si
-
Hmmm, I've a flying visit to London planned for the first bank holiday weekend in May and I think a trip to Bacchus might be in order. I've read so much about it here I feel like I know the place! Is there a special eGullet handshake or codeword I should use on arrival?
Si
Our sample NY itinerary
in New York: Dining
Posted
Saturday was my 31st birthday and we celebrated with the last of our planned meals, dinner at Eleven Madison Park. Given my struggles the night before, we were careful not to eat too much during the day, a plan that worked pretty well until about 5pm. By then we were both really starting to flag and the hunger pangs were revving up again. Our reservation wasn't until 9, so we popped into a restaurant across the road from the Mercer (whose name may have been Zoe?) in search of lite bites. We sat at the bar, had a beer, and shared various tasty snacks -- lobster crostini, prawns, calamari and some others. Concern that the previous day's heartburn might make a reappearance turned to dread when our friendly barmaid poured me a small amount of a couple of whiskeys on the house. I valiantly drank them with no adverse effects, so I knew I was ready to face dinner!
I'd read contrasting views about the room at EMP, and certainly I wouldn't be an enormous fan on the basis of our night-time visit. I loved the high ceilings and big windows, and I loved the fact that I could see the (iconic to me) Flatiron Building from my seat. I kinda liked the buzz, although it was maybe a little louder than I was expecting, but all-in-all I couldn't shake a vague feeling that I was in a very nice company canteen -- it doesn't really feel "special" in the way that fine dining places usually do. There certainly wasn't any air of exclusivity about the place, which could either be viewed as a refreshing change or a slight disappointment. I decided I'd go with the refreshing change option, not least because this was the first of our serious restaurants where women seemed to have a sizable representation among the waiting staff. I hadn't noticed before, but Hazel pointed out that in our various "formal" restaurant visits we hadn't once had a female server, a fact that is somewhat surprising.
We had been perusing the menu for a good 5 minutes before I noticed the message printed across the top: "Happy Birthday Simon!" I must have mentioned this piece of information at some point during the booking/confirmation process, but this was a very nice touch. When I finally spotted it and pointed it out to Hazel, our waitress came over smiling broadly and said that she wondered how long it was going to take us to see it. We said that where food was concerned we're both inclined to get tunnel vision, and we'd been far too interested in the descriptions on the menu. A good sign, I think you'll agree.
Even though we had intended to do the "Gourmand" menu, we just couldn't face it. Still, we aren't the type to go for half-measures either, so we asked if it would be possible to ignore the appetiser section and go for one fish and two meat dishes each instead. We were told that would be a $15 supplement on the usual $96, but it was no problem, so Hazel opted for
- Atlantic Halibut
"Mi-cuit" with asparagus, black truffles and Sauce Vin Jaune
- Four Story Hill Farm Veal
Herb roasted duo with garden peas and oregon morels
I had:
- Mediterranean Loup de Mer
Slow cooked with saffron endive nage and piquillo peppers
- Vermont Farm Suckling Pig
Confit with cipollini onions, dried plum chutney and five spice jus
We shared a dish for two:
- Grimaud Farms Muscovy Duck
Glazed with lavender honey and spices.
After an extended consultation with the extremely helpful and friendly sommelier we settled on a bottle of 1997 Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet and a half-bottle of 2000 Pomerol from Gombaude Guillot. She kindly decanted the Puligny and it continued to open out beautifully during the meal. It was really enjoyable, if expensive, and the Pomerol was fine as I recall.
Honestly, the food here was really delicious -- beautifully prepared, unfussy in presentation and with gutsy flavours. The real highlight was the duck, which counts as the best I've ever eaten. Asking the chef afterwards, he mentioned that they air-dry it themselves, and that accounts for its marvellous combination of taste and texture. I am still fantasising about that duck, and it was probably one of the most memorable things we ate on the trip. There maybe wasn't the complexity of cooking here that we'd experienced in J-G (or Daniel for that matter) but that was no harm. Everything I ate was focussed and well-executed. Strangely, I can't remember sampling Hazel's dishes (with the exception of a morel or two), but I know she really enjoyed everything too, and was similarly blown-away by the duck.
Still on the crest of that particular wave, I decided I was going to do something I'd wanted to do for years, so I ordered a glass of 1996 Chateau d'Yquem. It was as sublime as I expected -- next time it will be a bottle!! This was a fitting end to an excellent meal, and it made sure I'll remember this night for a while. I had dessert with it, but who really cares!
Special mention must go to the service here, especially our excellent sommelier. By now, I believe she's probably working at Lupa since she was due to finish up soon after our night there. In fact, all aspects of service were really good, with many small nice touches adding to the experience (in contrast to Daniel the night before). On leaving, we were presented with our menus, the labels from our wines laminated onto a card, and a large brioche. We couldn't have been made to feel more welcome.
EMP was an excellent experience for a variety of reasons. The food, while obviously not Michelin 3-star level, was really well-prepared with excellent ingredients. The service was very friendly with a level of polish that belied its informality. My misgivings about the room aside, this restaurant ticked many boxes, and seemed a fitting last dinner in NY. Next time I'll make sure to go for the Gourmand menu.