Bu Pun Su

Hi, thanks for reading Here are my small notes for grading ... with some referral of Michelin standards 97-99 is 3-star 95-96 is 2 3/4 star 92-94 is 2 1/2 star 90-91 is 2 1/14 star The food (and wine) makes up about 70% of my grading while the rests consist of service (and ambiance) I'm one of those believers that not all 3-star created equal and among 3-star places, there are some that shine brighter than the rests and I want them to be recognized. It's probably useful when some diners are confused on where to eat and why I put several important points in my notes - so they're not very long actually. I don't eat fast, usually try to think it through and in the process I actually enjoy them - both the food and the experience. I know food is often subjective, by taking notes I want to know whether 1 week or 1 month after the meal, I still have the same feeling/impression. Therefore, by taking notes, I believe that when it's time for the write-up, I can be more objective About the pictures and reviews, I found that when I started to learn about fine-dining 5 years ago - I found others write-up and pictures were really helpful. It's kinda time for pay-back purposes partially and by looking at the pictures, the delicious dishes only, I could somehow remember/travel back exactly and cherish the moment I had that dish - for me, it's an enjoyment =)

Ever since I learned about fine dining after graduating from University in ’05, Charlie Trotter is one of the places I would like to go. That curiosity finally became a reality in late Spring ’09 … sadly, it’s quite disappointing (or do I expect too much?) Food (and wine) – 90/100 I ordered the grand menu, so there’s no excuse that the restaurant would not serve its best dishes. Here are a few comments about what I ate: - the sea urchin was so-so. Then they also made ‘shaved ice’ with sea urchin flavor, what??? I was surprised to taste Japanese sea urchin like this – hardly any sweetness - the next dish is basically unagi. I would say it’s quite good – tasty and not too strong (unlike some sushi places which sometimes put heavy ‘sweet’ sauce) - my alaskan salmon was rather poor – it’s soggy and somewhat tasteless - the duck breast was alright thankfully, but nothing special. I found the duck gizzard/confit and cabbage were too strong (cloying); the good thing is the mint & yoghurt paired quite well with this dish - this would be the last main course. The veal was good, but then the side dishes went wrong: hardly any taste with the morels (out of season/left over already?) and the sweetbread was hard and not sweet at all (not sure if they know how to prepare it) - I could not recall anything wow in my desserts – just ate them and let’s get over it – they looked complicated, but not taste that good in your palates. The interesting part here was the non-alcoholic beverages pairing to the food. Unfortunately, many of them did not work well – even the drink by itself sometimes tasted weird such as: fenugreek & lemongrass, peach & lemon was quite horrible. The wine list is impressive though As many claimed that Trotter is one of America’s great chefs … I left dumbfounded. Is this the best that American’s top chefs can offer? Well, it’s not complete disaster, but then the food, in general, was boring and uninspiring. Furthermore, it’s contrived and somewhat complicated with (often) uncommon ingredients that do not work together – not mentioning the small portions. I will give 90 pts; in my notes it’s equivalent to ‘low’ 2-star Michelin Service (and ambiance) – 89/100 The staffs were not too friendly to the point of cold and a bit arrogant. Sometimes, they checked about the food, but did not seem to welcome the not-so-positive reviews. The restaurant was quite full (80%). I saw chef Trotter standing/hiding just outside the kitchen watching the dining room. My dinner was quite fast, nearly 2 hours only. During this time, I did not see the chef going out greeting any guests at all. The atmosphere itself was not too bad: nice flower decorations, classical ambiance and the place were quite spacious. Based on this one visit, I think it’s correct that since the beginning of ’08 – many diners said this place is declining. It seems that the chef Trotter does not know that there are many other much better restaurants out there. He definitely will not be able to cook creative food like his neighbors Alinea or Avenues and I don’t expect that; however, even they did not do a good job in doing what they always do (L’Ambroisie may not be creative, but they’re really good in preparing the classical dishes – in fact, one of the best in France). I don’t see any niche here, thus unlikely to go back. It should not come as a surprise that Charlie’s 2 restaurants in Vegas did not work out – nobody really wants to dine this kind of food. And the NY one, I think it’s better that it never opens otherwise it’s unlikely to work out (expect lots of negative comments for New Yorker) Well, I wasn’t that regretful to come here satisfying my curiosity about one of America’s legends … I left satisfied after leaving French legendary restaurant at Paul Bocuse, but not here – probably, it’s the wrong comparison to put Trotter at Bocuse’s level, no? The overall dining experience was 89.5 (aka barely make it to 2-star level). If there’s no improvement in the food’s tastes in the next 2-3 years, I expect this to be one-star establishment by then … The pictures of my meals: Trotter's 09

Dining has scene has been relatively quiet in the past several years at the US. Alinea was possibly one of the few places that made a loud arrival with positive impacts since per se. I’m not a big fan of molecular gastronomy, but I thought Grant Achatz’ avant-garde cooking did a fantastic job of constructing dishes out of the unexpected and taking the form and food’s presentation to new levels Food (and wine) - 94/100 Nearly everybody that I knew recommending to have a “Tour” at Alinea and that’s what I had for my dinner back in late spring 2009. There were about 24 courses in total, ranging from small dishes to only bites/refreshers. It’s normal that you would have some high and a few misses. My favorite dishes are actually more on the traditional style surprisingly: Achatz’ “re-produced” Escoffier’s recipe of pigeon a la Saint-Clair with a perfectly cooked squab and good side dishes such as mash of caramelized onions. Another outstanding dish was the tender and buttery wagyu beef, interestingly served with A-1 in powder form. For the “advance dishes” that I like were: the classic black truffle explosion of pasta shell and a well-integrated yuba (dried tofu skin). The dessert was also good – for me the chocolate served with blueberry and maple is the best. There were also dishes showing in contrast of texture and temperature by using similar ingredients (a pair of crab items served hot and cold). Some dishes that I was not too keen were – pork belly (too soft) and white asparagus with arugula. The wine pairing here was supposedly good too – many said nearly as good as L’Astrance’s wine pairing. I only had 5 glasses of tasting size. The Bruno Paillard brut rose was rather disappointing (paired with yuba and hot/cold potato); whereas the ’03 Andrew Will Syrah (matched well with the beef) and ’08 Elio Perrone Piedmont (dessert wine) were nice. The food here, in general, is good though not really hitting a high mark – just very consistent (94/100 – 2 ½*). Service (and ambiance) - 92/10 The service is more on the formal side but excellent (more genial waiters will be preferable). However, there are really lots of dishes needed to be delivered, so they constantly changed the silverwares as well as cleaned the table. Hence, it’s understandable if they were unable to interact more often with the guests. The restaurant design’s is chic, minimalist and a bit futuristic. Diners walked into the entrance until the end of the tunnel; there’s a black door on your left. Black, grey and some white are the most dominant color. The ambiance is comfortable with shoulder-high chairs and relatively spacious table. I left the place not really feeling full, but well-pleased. Additionally, I was filled with curiosity on what other dishes they will make in the future. I suppose it will be some kind of “El Bulli” in which the menu constantly evolves – the only certain thing is that the menu will keep changing. I gave this place 93.5 (2 ½*) for the overall experience – among top 3 or 5 as the best restaurants in the States. I don’t really opposing Michelin for giving its highest honor here, after all Jean-Luc Naret said that they had to ‘sell’ the books too by giving at least 1 3-star restaurant in nearly each city they’re reviewing Pictures - Alinea Spring 09

My wish to eat at Ambroise during the black truffle season finally became reality in early 2010. Food (and wine) - 98/100 Unlike my previous visits, I know exactly what I want to eat this time so I didn’t really bother to consult with the maitre d’. - I chose sweet and barely heated scallop with truffle on top; the tender scallop is bathed in thick watercress (& truffle) veloute. A great appetizer to begin my meal - Lobster is a dish that I always had every time I eat here – this time is no exception. My 2nd dish was firm and meaty lobster prepared with rich peas puree and intense red wine reduction, another tasty dish yet my favorite lobster here is the one prepared with star anise sauce, usually served in autumn - Then come, possibly the most discussed dish in any Ambroise’s forum – feuillete truffle bel humeur: foie gras is sandwiched by thick and smoky black truffle wrapped in fragrant and airy pastry. As if the truffle was not sufficient, there was truffle puree below the delicious pastry and on the salad. The truffle was of good quality; it was a very filling and rich dish. It’s just that when I cut it into two, the smell did not really truffle to the surrounding, only wrapped within my table – the ‘a-ha’ moment was not as bizarre as I thought. Overall, it’s excellent - After many strong-flavored dishes, there was no better dessert than a kind that mixed sour, freshness and (a little) sweet. A warm melting biscuit with mandarin sorbet was a brilliant answer for this All of these were accompanied by a half-bottle of Mersault ’05 and Badoit sparkling water. I was told that monsieur Lemoullac, its respected sommelier and manager, retired at the end of ’09. Christophe was the replacement – he’s rather lacked in charisma and communication skill of his predecessor. Though I didn’t talk too often to Mr. Lemoullac, but I felt that something was missing at L’Ambroise without his presence. This is indeed my best meal at L’Ambroisie – only a few other places such as Arpege, Veyrat Annecy ever received such high score in my note – no doubt 3-star or even should be in the group of “4-star” Service (and ambiance) - 93/100 There have been mixed reviews about the hospitality at Ambroisie – some people, often newcomers, said that they’re mean while the regulars usually received wonderful service. I visit this place about once every 1.5 years, so perhaps I fell in between category (more towards new comer). Generally, they will treat with you as a gentleman (and ladies); they will greet you with smiles and serve you the basic and necessary things for the standard of 2-3 star restaurants. But if you expect to be treated like a ‘king’, the expectation was too high. You will not get Alain Ducasse or Guy Savoy kind of service where the staffs would go the extra miles and do whatever they could to make you happy. The food is king here. The décor is more like luxury Parisian house in the past – full of classic chandeliers and paintings. They’re exactly the same as my earlier visits; this place indeed never changes – the people, the décor and the dishes (seasonal). As I consider overall experience when visiting Michelin-starred restaurants or other fine dining places, I would give this place 2 ¾* for the general score of 96.5 More detailed reviews - l'ambroisie review 2010 Pictures - l'ambroisie pictures winter

Food (and wine) - 90/100 Picasso offered prix-fixe and menu degustation; we chose to go for the 4-course. The amuse had a nice potato croquette with a dollop of caviar while the salmon and quail egg was very ordinary. My meal opened nicely with a simple and classic oyster served with lemon and caviar – a good way to elevate my appetite. Then come fillet of black bass with saffron sauce, which was just alright – nothing memorable. Out of curiosity, I picked roasted pigeon for my main course. The meat was quite tender and tasty, but the wild rice as a side dish a bit hard. The dessert was quite common – warm chocolate fondant (thick and good) with peanut butter ice cream. Since this is Picasso, I requested to have a Spanish wine: I had a glass of 2005 salanques, celler mas doix priorato – a decent one. The food is definitely 2-star. Good and solid, but not spectacular/wow. It truly emphasized on simplicity in preparation, but rather lack in delicious flavor Service (and ambiance) - 91/10 The ambiance is nice and romantic, especially if you’re seated near the window. It gave you a nice view of Bellagio’s famous water fountain. The paintings collection was extraordinary indeed – like a mini museum. The service is professional and friendly, non-obtrusive but a bit lacking in connecting with the guests. But when my friend’s deer medallions was overcooked, they immediately changed it – he said the new one while tender, but a bit dry. We saw chef Serrano walked around the dining room visiting the regular tables (not all I think) The price here is quite reasonable. One can spend <$150 without alcohol to have a nice meal. As of now, I don’t really see this place will ever become a 3-star place Here are the pictures - http://www.flickr.com/photos/7124357@N03/

In the old era of Vegas (before all of the world celebrity chefs flocked in to this city), Alessandro Stratta was considered as one of the best chefs in fine dining at his Renoir, tucked in the Mirage. Noticed his great talent, Steve Wynn, a genius entrepreneur in hotel business, brought him in and provided grand restaurant named after the chef nickname - Alex Food (and wine) - 92/100 I opted for the 4-course prix-fixe because they have dishes with my fav. ingredients such as scallop, lobster and lamb – so it was naturally an easy pick. Unfortunately, it’s not as good as I thought – don’t get me wrong, it’s still decent but not wow or really delicious. The poached lobster is nice, but its side dishes are too flavorful and complex (too many things throw together and they do not integrate each other well). The lamb was slightly too dry (but still rather tasty), then there were the lamb’s offal, morels (not too bad, given it’s already May), and pea puree – intensive flavor altogether that I think more suitable for winter season, not end of spring 2009, I know it’s been a while. The cooking is serious and precise, sometimes I think they’re trying too hard – missed some simplicity, just let the main ingredient shines. The restaurant is quite generous … before that, there were canapé consisting of ahi tuna tartar, red bell pepper bisque, smoked salmon and wild mushrooms as far as I could remember. The amuse is probably my favorite for the whole meal – fluke carpaccio with caviar and fresh cream, refreshing and simple. The bread collection is good; there were black olives, fennel & anise, walnut raisin and grain & honey. The dessert sounds perfect for Spring: roasted pineapple with coconut ice cream. Somehow, the pineapple is very sweet (maybe caramelized, lacked in freshness and some natural sour taste), then come the sweet banana cake, the ice cream is also sweet – not bad, just a bit too much. Instead of ready to unwind at the end, I became full and had some intense flavor in my throat. This is a low 2 ½* star food for me – despite many positive reviews, Alex is not yet ready to get the third one anytime soon. Service (and ambiance) - 92/100 The most memorable part (and possibly the best thing) of my meal at Alex is its dining room. Unlike Robuchon mansion, it’s very spacious here. The décor is grand with mahogany woods everywhere. By the window table is romantic and gives overall view of the restaurant, while I enjoyed my sofa seating. The service is professional, but not personalized. Many of the staffs are quite old surprisingly; all dressed in suit, a bit rigid at times – somewhat robotic, but never late to refill your water or whenever you need something. Again, the overall rating is the same as the food above. By the way, the tasting menu offered more luxurious ingredients such as abalone, giant clam, foie gras etc – sound appetizing, but I doubt how good they’re going to be. Just read the news that Alex is closed … what a pity! I intended to give this place another chance, at the very least I’ve been here once Pictures - alex '09

Joel Robuchon Mansion inside MGM is known to be one of the most expensive restaurants in the US. It’s supposed to show off Robuchon’s best cooking where nothing will be spared, from top notch ingredients to luxurious furniture. 3-star Michelin experience is what this place offers to the lucky 40-people to dine here Food (and wine) - 95/100 I’ve been to other Robuchon top’s restaurants in Macau and Tokyo. I suppose this visit is simply to complete my experience of all the top 3. Similar to my other experiences, I ordered the restaurant full degustation menu. Some of the memorable ones are, - Caviar dish served with crab and fennel cream. A smart combination of crab’s sweetness, caviar’s saltiness and texture contrasts – could be equal to Robuchon’s famous cauliflower cream with caviar dish - Scallop … poached to near perfection. The scallop itself is plump and sweet, well-enhanced with butter kumquat sauce - I’m amazed with the consistency of the langoustine ravioli. This one was about as good as the one I had in Tokyo. The meat is succulent with creamy and sweet sauce though the truffle did not make much impact There are more dishes not mentioned (I will let you see the pictures). Some are just fine such as the asparagus trio – they’re quite interesting, but not memorable in your palate. The tomato salad and mozzarella are more pleasing to the eye. The kobe beef was delicious, but the overall dish itself quite simple. The dessert – here is the pattern, the first one will be fruit-based (more function as a palate cleanser) and the next one will be chocolate-based, usually sweet to create some ecstatic and feel good experience towards the end. Nothing is cheap here. I only had 2 glasses of wine – both are from Napa Valley, I like drinking locals’ whenever I eat. Overall, the tasting menu is very enjoyable. One can taste many tasty dishes with just the right portion – the score above reflects 2 ¾* in my notes. Thus, it should be expected to be the only 3-star in Vegas. Yet, it’s still nowhere compared to the Paris 3-star. Based on this “complete” experience, I’m a bit doubt if Robuchon could ever provide dishes as delicious as the ones I had at L’Arpege, L’Ambroisie or Gagnaire Paris. Is it possible that his old days at Jamin somewhat overrated? Comments anyone, especially the one who was lucky enough to eat there around the 80’s? Service (and ambiance) - 93/10 Staffs are professionally friendly, helpful and unobtrusive. They’re doing what’s required to give diners good experience, but not trying hard to go the extra miles. At least, here the service was a lot better than the one in Robuchon a Galera a few years ago. The drawbacks are that these staffs themselves neither know nor have experience eating at other 3-star establishments. Hence, by the time you talked with them about dining at top places as comparisons, they hardly have anything to offer back. At times, they’re not that knowledgeable about the dishes; nevertheless they still offered their best smiles and tried to find out the necessary information from the kitchen. The salon looked like Paris in the 30’s and it’s done on purpose of course. It’s indeed very luxurious. The patio provides an option to have an ‘outside’ dining experience. The restaurant was about 70-80% full. However, it’s not really spacious. I wish the table were bigger and distances among diners are wider. It’s nearly as crammed as Arpege’s dining room, but Passard never intended to have luxurious dining room. The overall experience here is 94.5/100 – about 2 ½*. The hardware and menu are top notch, but once you experience the dynamic of hospitality, dishes etc. it’s normal one would expect more when you charge him/her more than $400 per head. Here are more detailed reviews - Robuchon mansion review Here are the pictures - Robuchon vegas pictures

Pic … Despite being one of the oldest and most respectable restaurants in France, honestly I’ve never heard of it until 2007 when Anne-Sophie became the only female French chef receiving 3-star award. Out of curiosity, I decided to take TGV to Valence and had lunch here 2 years ago Food (and wine) - 93/100 I ordered the seasonal tasting menu. Most of the items in the menu looked good … did they taste as good as they look? I like my amuse: foie gras crème brulee with apple mousse. Balance in flavors – liver’s sweetness and the apple’s acidity. It sounds like an odd combination, but it worked … at least for me Probably, because the head chef is female – I find the dishes here are tender and very delicate. For instance, the crab (with saffron jelly) as well as the scampi (with herbs consomme) were a bit too tender to the point of ‘soft’ (they’re only OK), so was the lobster (lacking the shell fish’s firm texture) - nevertheless the lobster was tasty. The john dory with cardamom spice was flavorful. The side dish, while look beautiful, it’s somewhat ‘disconnected’ from the fish. I always love Bresse chicken – but this one is soft (again). There’s hardly any skin and the fat – pure meat; rather tasteless except from its jus and cream of whelks. The cheese selection was quite impressive – I enjoyed my gaperon, tome and bleu de termignon.. For the dessert, I had its classic soufflé. The hot version was good (but nothing special – at the same level of Bristol’s or even Arpege’s pre-dessert) while the cold one was more interesting. With pudding on top, essentially it tasted like an ice cream Generally, the food is alright. The “soft/feminine” side of the chef is reflected on a plate in particular texture wise. The technique is good, but not as impressive as say Alleno’s; neither it was as delicious as Barbot’s cooking. Perhaps, its classic tasting menu (his father and grand father dishes) is better, but priced at > EUR 300 … I did not dare (or not bother) to try. So the food was only 93/100 (2 ½*) Service (and ambiance) - 93/100 The hotel seemed to be just renovated with some circular/asymmetrical ceilings around the hotel middle room. The dining room itself is spacious - giving a sense of calmness and peace with some paintings on the wall. The table is big and rather simple, covered with white clothed. To me, nothing wow but it’s just very comfortable on a one fine day. Staffs are friendly and professional. They tried to keep some distances with their guests, but still courteous. One will have good experience here, but not something you would fondly remember 3-6 months later (let alone years). As a matter of fact, my note showed that along with Le Bristol, Pic was the “weakest” 3-star places among those I’ve ever been Pictures - pic autumn '08 With this, I finally concluded my restaurant reviews taken from Autumn 2008 trip. Thanks for reading and your patience

Guy Savoy is no doubt a very famous chef; many believe he’s the last generation of the “true” nouvelle cuisine legend. Trained under Troisgros’ family, he himself also ‘produced’ many other top chefs such as Gordon Ramsay and Thomas Keller. Despite all of this, his cuisine/restaurant is hardly the talk among foodies. Unconsciously, this could be the reason why I visited this place simply because I’ve been to many other 3-star restos and left with this one (and Pre Catelan) Food (and wine) - 94/100 Guy Savoy (GS) is a talented and highly skilled chef. It can easily be seen from his dishes; while a bit similar to Alleno’s dishes – both are technically stunning, but GS’ creations somehow are not that delicious (it’s still good/tasty, but not something memorable or satisfy my palate & other senses). I’ve checked his menu 2-3 times each season since ‘06, and it seems that his dishes are trapped with time aka never changes, especially the tasting menu. And it’s indeed the case; nevertheless they have wonderful presentations and plating. Some of the highlights of my dinner are, - I thought the turbot prepared two ways are excellent – poached rib of turbot served dry and in soup. The fish is tender, but a bit lacking of inherent flavor in itself. The sauce helped a bit, but a very light. Oh, many good autumn’s mushrooms - The best dish is probably colors of caviar. Beautiful preparations divided into several layers including green bean puree, hot sabayon and caviar cream. One can see Savoy’s play with textures, flavors and temperatures. This is about as good as Robuchon’s famous cauliflower cream with caviar dish - Another dish that’s spot on will be a pure and tender sweetbread (again light in taste) served with potato, foie gras and black truffle. If only it had been ‘crispier and sweeter’, it would have been a perfect dish Other dishes I sampled are, - Of course, the legendary artichoke soup. However, the best part of it for me it’s not in the soup itself – more on the fragrant smells of parmesan and the truffle. The hot brioche with truffle butter was indeed fantastic, but the soup itself (that should be the strength) is only ok for me - The radish foie gras is probably a perfect example of a dish perfectly executed (the liver was not greasy at all) but not that delicious. The liver was a bit weak, and the radish does not help much either. Nothing really wrong, but nothing very right either - Desserts: the grapefruit with earl grey sauce and biscuit is simple and nice while the more complicated ‘all black’ is just hard to swallow with so many things in it (almond paste, lime juice, black pepper etc.) You’re welcome to see more on the pictures link below. As I went home after this meal, I think I kinda know what “bothered me” about the food (I guess I had high expectation on him): flavors. The main ingredients of the dishes are not delicious by themselves (lack seasoning/infusion or not so great raw materials which’re rather unlikely); then come the famous part of French cuisine – the sauce/the juice is weak compared to other French top-level chefs, as if they’re somewhat ‘watery’ or diluted with something else I don’t know how to describe it any further. Probably, if you have eaten dishes prepared by Passard, Roellinger or Gagnaire then you will understand what I’m talking about. Regardless of that, it’s still better than Bocuse, Piege’s Ambassadeurs or Pont de Brent. It’s 94/100 (2 ½* in my note) Service (and ambiance) - 96/10 Unlike the food, when it comes to service and overall dining experience, Guy Savoy is among the world’s best. The dining room is divided into a few different sections. The style is modern and rather minimalist with high ceiling and dark African woods act as partitions. Among fine dining places, the atmosphere was very joyful to the point of noisy as nearly everybody enjoyed the meal and had a good time here. As often mentioned by many, monsieur Hubert, the famous maitre d’, handled my table at the beginning. As the meal progressed, I was served by another young French gentleman whom was equally as good as Mr. Hubert. The restaurant was flexible with the menu and even my captain offered me to taste the whole desserts if I wanted to. It was a tempting offer … only until 10-course later did I realize that 2 desserts plus petit four trolleys were all I could take. The restaurant was full-house even though it’s only Tuesday. Located in the narrow street of Rue Troyon, GS is pretty much the only attraction that could jam the road. Guy Savoy himself diligently walked around and visited his guests to show French hospitality at its best as well as the statement that as the chef and the owner, he also bothers to entertain his clients. Having a meal here is more than good food; GS will try to participate in each and every client’s happiness and celebration. They try to enhance the defining moments you have that brought you to this place whether it’s wedding anniversary, closing sales deal or as simple as having gastronomy experience. It’s the place where you will see human at its best – in line with the chef’s belief that restaurant is the most civilized place on earth. Overall, I bestowed 94.5 (slightly above 2 ½*) for my experience here. Did I regret it? No; will I return? Perhaps, but it won’t be in my top 5 Paris dining destinations Here are the pictures - Guy Savoy Autumn '08

Hmm actually the best risotto (focusing only on the rice) I've ever tried is at Calandre (here) and L'Arpege (here), followed by Cracco's milanese style For pasta, I like Passard's celeriac tagliatelle (not sure if it counts) or herbs' pasta in Le Louis XV. The best one in Italy that I've tasted ... perhaps La Pergola's fagottelli - (very) good but not wow Actually, I've been searching for great pasta in Italy, so far nothing really impressed me sadly: from Florence (la giostra, il latini) to Venice (Osteria alle Testiere, Trattoria da Fiore); from Rome (il convivio) to Milan (Da Giacomo). I forgot other restaurants ... Any enlightenment where I should go? A few Italian restaurants in Singapore or in US' Little Italy are actually not that bad, but not on the level the ones mentioned above

Actually, I still have plenty restaurants to report from my US trip last summer. However, since the US fine dining places are not that interesting (it’s coming, but a bit slow) and only a few of them are memorable – I choose to summarize my winter visit to Paris early this year. Let’s start with Ledoyen, at least for this month Food (and wine) - 97/100 This is my 2nd visit to the Paris historical and famous institution (the first one was in ’07). 3 years ago, I savored Christian Le Squer’s classical dishes such as langoustine with citrus lemon, turbo with truffle and sweet bread. This time I choose to go for the a la carte; not only did not disappoint, my experience is even better than the 1st visit. I will skip the amuse, bread, and petit four parts (you can read them in my blog below) and go directly to the real deal - I started with Brittany sea urchin prepared hot (with cauliflower cream) and cold (with avocado mousse). The urchin is of high quality though not as sweet as the Hokkaido’s uni; nevertheless more superior to the one from Santa Barbara – good dish - Though I’m a big fan of French cuisine, I’m not to keen on foie gras or escargot. But, I love sea food, especially shell fishes … here come the second dish: a firm and delicious Breton lobster served with pistachio ice cream (looks like an odd combination, but it works). Don’t imagine the usual pistachio ice cream, it focus more on the natural taste – a bit salty & somehow not very ‘nutty’. There’s also special sauce of lobster juice, yellow wine and hazelnut oil – a pleasure in the palate - Half-portion of sublime scallop served in its shell – barely steamed and in good texture (but not as sweet as the one at Arpege or Ambroisie). The secondary elements are great though: a mixture of salsify, tomato, turnip and some slices of black truffle; a pleasure to the nose and mouth - The exquisite hedonism is not over yet, one more to go. The classic and beautiful spaghetti box (or some called it castle). This is probably one of the most stunning dish presentations in the world; the pasta is meticulously arranged with high precision. More importantly it’s divine – delectable white ham and mushroom with powerful yet balanced truffle and parmesan cream sauce. I think it’s worth the price tag … I couldn’t remember any Italian restaurants preparing better pasta/spaghetti than this one. Bravo! I was greedy this time and ordered their 5 desserts altogether (2 of them I tasted before). Ledoyen is famous for its grape fruit ‘millefeuille’ (crunchy and fresh), but my fav. dessert is the timeless yeast ice cream/almond/white chocolate – so light and creamy, sweet and not overbearing. The Norwegian omelette is very complex (a bit too rich for me); somehow I enjoyed the watery lychee sorbet and meringue. It ended with choc./praline biscuit and banana sorbet, only ok. I enjoyed my champagne Deutz ’99 and ’07 Meursault accompanying my main course. I also had a lovely dessert wine – ’08 Ruster Eiswein (fruit based but not too sweet); I hardly go all out for wine – prefer to spend more for food I thought Christian Le Squer is an amazing chef – for somebody at his caliber, the cooking still evolves and keeps getting better. Top notch ingredients, bring out the products’ natural and optimum flavor; innovative yet still stay true to the classic and rigorous French cuisine. I have no issue to give Ledoyen 97/100 (a 3* by Michelin standard) for its food. Yup, it’s that good though I still miss some of its popular dishes such as: Bresse chicken with rape de truffe or feuillete brioche with black truffle (the restaurant can easily sell 15 of these daily) – I could not eat heavy truffle anymore at that time after eating Pacaud’s truffle bel humeur 6 hours earlier Service (and ambiance) - 95/100 Ledoyen is another example of uniquely Paris restaurants. The place itself is historically rich – dated back to the late 18th century. The dining room or more like salon is both romantic and nostalgic; the big window facing greeneries and located not too far from Petit Palais and yet far from any noise coming from the famous Champs Elysses. The service is very pleasant, and never intrusive. If you want to talk more, the staffs would be more than happy to entertain otherwise they will be professional and never forget to smiles. The young and new Flemish (from Belgium) captain served my table was really good – kind, energetic and very passionate about food. He’s also accommodative and easy going. I also saw my previous captain – more senior and just too relaxed this time (maybe since fewer than 20 people dine there tonight). Patrick Simiand, the restaurant manager, was also approachable and open to talk about many things. He brought me to other salons at Ledoyen – at that they have Japanese modern art promotions, so the restaurant sometimes serving special menu (Japanese/French cuisine) for the events. They did that as well for Russian’s arts Overall, my visit at Ledoyen this time receives 96.5 pts, 1 pt improvement from 3 years ago. It ranked among a ‘convincing’ 3-star places in Paris; a true place of haute cuisine. Chef Le Squer takes it very seriously what’s served in the plates, it can be seen that his cuisine has been ‘perfected’ for 1-2 decades and still counting. It doesn’t come cheap, but the portion here is generous – you will not leave hungry for sure Please visit here for a more comprehensive review – Ledoyen Winter '10 Pictures only - ledoyen pictures - winter season

If there’s one restaurant in the US that intrigues me for the past few years, it will be Urasawa. After receiving several (very) good reviews among serious diners in many forums, I cannot help but make Urasawa as one of the must-visited places for haute cuisine. Besides, after a short trip to Tokyo 2-3 years ago, Japanese cuisine becomes my 2nd fav. after, of course, french cuisine. Also, I find if you give yourself enough time (say 1 month or so), the reservation here is not that troublesome, compared to say the constantly busy French Laundry/per se. Food (and wine) - 95/100 I believe many readers already know about the history of Urasawa from Ginza Sushi-ko and being a disciple of Masa etc. so I will not elaborate further here. Instead, let’s go directly to the food. Urasawa is one of a few restaurants that could combine kaiseki and sushi together. My meal had about 9 kaiseki dishes and some of the memorable ones are: - Buta no Kakuni: Braised pork belly is prepared for two days and pretty much has no fat (only the collagen left). It was scrumptious - the top part has similar texture of toro or wagyu beef while the bottom meat is more flavorful. If I have to choose the best dish of the night, it will be the one. - The toro tataki with caviar is complex, but delicious. The toro itself is of high quality, wrapping some uni, scallion and turnip; it’s served on the light and refreshing ponzu sauce. Wondeful dish – it’s indeed important to start strong to give guest good impression - Hoba yaki: served on big leaf are oily wagyu beef, fat prawn with nice texture and juicy scallop. Top quality ingredients served with sweet Kyoto miso sauce … yummy! The other dishes are (they’re still good): goma dofu, great sashimi (toro, uni and kanpachi), unique, rich and dynamic chawan mushi (many different ingredients) and the famous shabu-shabu, serving A5 black beef and foie gras. After this, we’re served 18-20 nigiri sushi. Like other top notch sushi places, the wasabi is freshly grated and the use of soy sauce was unnecessary. My favorite are: slightly cooked kagoshima beef and o-toro (marbled and melt in your mouth), abalone, shitake mushroom and giant clam for their wonderful texture and the sweetness of uni and shiro ebi. The sushi part was a bit tricky for me … it was great, but I’ve tasted better. I think if you’ve been to the place like Jiro Ginza or Mizutani, you will understand what I’m talking about. I had my best fishes (pretty much all kinds) in Jiro – including the luxurious uni, o-toro, kuruma ebi or simple ones like ika, kohada, anago, aji. Even when tamago is used as the classic test for sushi’s quality, Jiro still won. Urasawa has sponge-like and tasty tamago, Jiros’ is more firm and flavorful - - (I thought it was a dessert cake at first). Regardless of that, Urasawa’s sushi is possibly the best in the US, even better than any places in HK and Singapore. I don’t find Hiro-san’s rice to be inferior to Yasuda – in fact I think the later one was rather over-rated. During this meal, mostly the 1st half, the dishes were accompanied by flask of Hakkaisan Junmai Ginjo of Niigata - Its fragrance is clean and crisp with a more defined flavor. An enjoyable cold sake! Oh, the dessert is a refreshing grapefruit jelly and rather-intense sesame ice cream with organic macha. The food verdict – 95/100 (2 ¾* by Michelin standard) – it’s the best meal I’ve had during my US trip last year (another one is per se). I feel that Urasawa faces similar situation as Ryugin, meaning Michelin wants to push both of them to the limit even though they’re already good enough to be 3-star, especially if you use the US or Hong Kong standard as a barometer. Service (and ambiance) - 94/10 Though the restaurant is small, guests will not feel really cramped. The décor is simple and quite colorful. The staffs, both waiters and cooks, are quite minimal but it seems to be just right – whenever you need something, someone will show up and assist you. The main star of hospitality here is actually Hiro-san himself. He’s not only an excellent chef/itamae, but also a nice and friendly person – he will try to recognize each guest by name. Hence, dining here is more than just good food, it’s also entertaining, enjoyable and warmth. I would be more than happy to return here should I have time to stop by around LA. The natural question after dining at Urasawa usually is: have you been to Masa? How do you compare both places? Well, I have not been to Masa … somehow I do not plan to do so in the near future too. There are a few reasons: the cost is the obvious one, the inconsistency of the food, the fact that you need to leave in 2 hours or less after throwing $600 or more, the idea of “forced” upselling (kobe beef, truffle and so on) in the middle of the meal and “expected” tips on top of your 20% service charge as well as rather cold service except if you’re served by Masa-san himself. So yeah, all of these push me away to try Masa at this moment. Overall, this is a very pleasant dining experience (95 pts – 2 3/4*). I hardly find bad reviews about this place. I know and believe Hiro-san can still do even better than he is right now. I’m confident that in 2-3 years time, this place will be the 1st 3-star establishment in southern California area. Here are the pictures - Urasawa Spring '09

Europe has always been my main destination for dining and it has been proven in the past few years that they’re indeed the place for gastronomy delights. However, in Summer 2009 I flew to the US to find out what the dining situation was like. I used to live in Pittsburgh for about 5 years. My food tour began from the west coast and Providence was the first destination Food (and wine) - 93/100 The menu does not change that much compared to other reviews I’ve read so far. The amuse bouche and openings are still: mojito ravioli, gin & tonic gelee, soy and wasabi marshmallow (this one really good), sea trout sashimi etc. I opted for the full-tasting menu (9-courses) and here are some of the highlights: the kanpachi was fresh and in good quality, but nothing really remarkable; I like the 2nd one: in general I love anything with poached egg. It produces flavorful combination of creamy egg yolk and uni, equally as good as JG’s egg but not reaching the status of Arpege’s egg. The scallop in Providence (sourced from Bobby’s block island) was plump, tender and naturally sweet; the artichoke, beans puree and tomato complete the experience – probably the best this of the night. The scallop was followed by pacific halibut. Honestly, halibut was boring because it’s usually tasteless and (too) soft – the taste was pretty much contributed by burdock and shiso only. After more than 20 min waiting without food, there came a better fish – wild king salmon. It’s only cooked a bit and showing some oily and fatty texture, nice. While the restaurant is well-known for its seafood, I was impressed by my main dish – (pinkish) veal tenderloin. The veal was tender and delicious; in fact I don’t need the sharp knife for steak to cut through the meat (it reminded me when I ate my lamb at Maison de Bricourt). Mushrooms and peas puree enhanced the already tasty meat – almost as good as the veal I had at Le Louis XV, seriously. The cheese was alright – only remember the sofia cheese; the condiments had a lot of variety though. Palate cleanser of the night was strawberry sorbet with rhubarb. I enjoyed the dessert actually – kalamansi gelee; my fav was the contrast of smooth coconut milk soup and tapioca with the cold and sour taste of the sorbet. I only had a glass of ‘06 white Burgundy to accompany my meal (a combination of crisp fruity and spicy taste, also not too dry). I would say that Providence LA is capable of producing superior meal. The kitchen team was very talented; Chef Cimarusti was not in the kitchen, nevertheless both sous chefs (Baxter and Aitchison) were able to carry the torch. The cooking here is complex (with many ingredients) yet focused (the main one still shines). The food got 93 pts in my note (solid 2 ½*) – I think it’s as good as if not better than Jean-Georges. Service (and ambiance) - 92/100 Rather than the period when I had to wait for almost 30 min in the middle, the staffs are friendly and professional. They sincerely would like to serve their guests well. They’re also open to talk about much stuff, which is a good thing for solo diner. The restaurant décor is fine and comfortable; it tends to be dark during dinner in particular in you’re seated at the inside/’alley’ like in my case. The ambiance is more laid back for fine dining standard; probably it’s a reflection of LA in general. However, the food is serious and good. All in all, Providence truly deserves the 2-michelin star (92.5/100 for my scoring system). It’s a much better seafood restaurant than Le Bernardin (LB took over De Karmeliet in my lists as the worst 3-star establishment that I’ve ever visited). I believe that Chef Cimarusti will get better in the next several years; his cooking and career could point to the direction of Olivier Roellinger, one of the greatest chefs in preparing seafood and fishes. If he keeps getting better and better, 4-5 years time Providence LA could receive Michelin’s highest accolade Here are the pictures – Providence LA My dining areas lack lighting, thus the pictures I took were rather poor. However, it does not reflect the quality of the dishes, which are high on the average

Yup, I received some sea salt as well from this visit When I ate there for the first time, they gave me a big loaf of bread for breakfast Actually they also allowed me to take away the sweets - caramel, nougat, chocolate etc.

There are many great chefs around the world, but not many actually dare to put their names in front and Dieter Muller is one of them – not even Ferran Adria, Bernard Pacaud or Harald Wohlfart (until recently the restaurant was changed into Gourmet Restaurant ran by Nils Henkel). By the time I got there, I learned that Muller was actually semi retired; he was with his son in HK at that time. Food (and wine) - 94/100 As in most places, I usually visit the restaurant for the first time and order its classic menu (if any). The menu was the normal one (not the 18 courses - amuse bouche style). I started with 3 amuse: the scampi with sesame black foam was good, lamb loin with its juice and Chinese sauce was find while the fried ‘ray’ fish was OK. The first dish is terrine of salmon and scallop. The salmon is served inside jelly; there is bourride sauce on sides – quite interesting presentation, but nothing really special. The next dish – roulade of john dory was much better than the salmon. The fish is tasty with good texture, the champagne flavor in the sauce was quite strong accompanied by a nice ‘paella’ meat ball. The main dish was excellent – a sample of simple dish executed perfectly. The picture might not look good, yet it tasted so good in my palate. The beef was dry-aged perfectly for 4-6 weeks. The beef is tender, juicy and nice by itself or with the red wine sauce. I wish they gave me more chanterelle mushrooms on the sides. It’s very good though not spectacular. Palate cleanser or pre dessert – champagne cream sorbet followed the main course. The dessert was visually pleasant; it’s a mixture of sweet from parfait of caramelized cinnamon and sour from red plum parfait. The selection of chocolate and truffle are nice, but as many as Vendome. I was told that the cheese was only available during summer (more than 50 different kinds) which I found a bit odd. I only had 2 glasses of wines (both are relatively young) accompanied me for lunch: dry pinot blanc by Weiner Burgunder ’07 and dry pinot noir of Spatburgunder ’06. I would describe my meal here as solid but not wow; rather traditional – one can still see the tradition, but also a little bit of effort to re-invent. It was a nice meal and I felt satisfied. However, if I have to choose between 2 top restaurants in Bergisch Gladbach area, I would pick the one under Joachim Wissler. It’s 94 pts aka 2 ½* Service (and ambiance) - 95/100 The Schloss Lerbach is smaller and not as grand as Schloss Bensberg, but it is more homey I suppose. The hotel may not be that big, but the surrounding was green and beautiful – this was reflected at the dining room of the restaurant. It’s elegant and classic, very pretty during lunch time. The areas are mainly glasses serving natural sunlight; it overlooks the gardens. It’s easily one of the best places for lunch (in terms of atmosphere) that I’ve ever been. The service was also excellent – courteous staffs, full of smiles and quite relaxing given it’s a 3-star in the palace-like hotel. I can understand why Michelin bestowed 3-star here, but it won’t be the top 10% among 3-star in my case. It will be interesting how this restaurant would fare in the next 2-3 years as Dieter Muller is no longer there. I’m confident that chef Henkel would not disappoint, but good enough to hold for 3-star? Time will tell … if it’s still at the top by 2012, it could stay there until 2015 or even later. Just my two cents … Click here for pictures - Dieter Muller '08

Somehow I could not find the old thread for ADPA, so I will start one here I suppose I simply another Ducasse supporter … well, mainly for his fine dining establishments – not really a big fan of Spoon franchise, Beige and Adour are not too bad. My review here actually took place about 1.5 years ago, it may sound cliché but it’s true: better late than never. Here was my dinner in Oct 2008 Food (and wine) - 96/100 This was the 2nd time I dine here, I mentioned that I visited this place before and the restaurant took note of it. It was obvious as they welcomed me. As I was talking to Denis about my meal for today, he kept smiling and saying – don’t worry and I’ll take care of it – indeed he delivered. For pre-amuse bouche/appetizers, he already gave me a small portion of pate a la Lucien Tendret – it was nice and the size was also right (I could not really take too much foie gras). Despite ‘only’ ordering the menu pleasures of the table, ADPA served me the classic langoustine with Iranian caviar for the amuse-bouche – as expected it was tasty – light and balance with firm langoustine and fragrant bouillon. The first 2 dishes: hot & cold spider crab and dover sole were well executed. However, I found that these two dishes though the ingredients are superb and technically stunning, it was not that delicious (it reminded me of Alleno’s dishes which are very good most of the time but not too rich in taste) The explosion of flavor took place in the main course: veal prepared 2 ways – one with lard of colonnata and the other one were caramelized (this one is particularly tender and good!). The veal’s juice with some (black) truffle sauce enriched this dish, yet balanced by the vegetables on the sides. I could not really decide whether Bardet or Moret prepared better veal. Oh also before this, they gave me a bonus – foie gras ravioli with consommé. The meal was very filling. The cheese was good, but I could not enjoy it as much … if only I was still hungry. Luckily, Denis invited me to the kitchen where I met a gentle giant – Chef Moret – a friendly and humble chef. This bought me some times to energize myself when I ate my chocolate raspberry dessert. The chocolate was almost as divine as Cerutti’s crispy praline; the sour raspberry sorbet was refreshing after ‘heavy’ meal earlier. Wines? It’s good that they served wine by the glasses now though not that cheap (some is about as expensive as L’Arpege’s). My meal in 06 was a very solid 3*, but this time though not as good, the standard was still very high. It was 96 pts or equivalent to 2 ¾* in my notes Service (and ambiance) - 97/100 I almost always have good experience dining at Ducasse’s establishments; among them ADPA probably triumphs all in terms of hospitality. Denis Courtiade is arguably French’s (and possibly the world’s) best directeur de salle. He not only led his brigade but also hands-on in doing so. The team’s movement in the dining room was very smooth and seemed effortless; the luxurious chandeliers would not prevent them from making guests felt comfortable and at home. I experienced it before and I did it again, so yeah the consistency was there. The atmosphere? I suppose there’re plenty of people talking about this – all the interiors are pretty much nearly over the top. I’m convinced that ADPA was one of the many places which could constantly deliver unique 3-star dining experience. Not so soon, but I know I will return here one day … Here is the longer review – review Ducasse Paris Fall '08 Here are the pictures – pictures Ducasse Paris Autumn 2008

Good reviews and pictures Felix (What camera do you use by the way?) Probably it's for the good of both parties that Piege quits Crillon Les Ambassadeurs at this stage is very unlikely to get the 3rd star Ducasse could (easily) take Piege under his wing (again) and created the 3rd 3-star place Just a side note - I hope Le Meurice, when Alleno is leaving, will not take Piege Unless Piege's willing to make a significant change from his current or Ducassian's style Otherwise, it will bring down Meurice ...

My trip to Europe in autumn 2008 is the “right” one as far as dining is concerned. I was glad with my choices of restaurants, in particular Maisons de Bricourt and Maison de Marc Veyrat, for obvious reasons: both of them had returned their glory back to Michelin. Who is the next in line to retire? Maybe I should go to Haeberlin’s or Guerrard’s establishments the next time I’m coming back, but Guerrard and Bras are not easy to reach by public transportation Food (and wine) – 98/100 All of culinary fanatics will definitely know that the cuisine of Marc Veyrat is creative and revolutionary. I’m not sure who came first, but he, Bras and Gagnaire keep French gastronomy interesting. The restaurant only offered one menu: 18-course degustation menu, and the price was never mentioned, but I already checked on the web before coming here so I know what to expect. Everything is pretty much top notch here, including the bread and cheese selection; unlike Parisian chefs, most of his ingredients come from the Savoy surroundings. Some of the memorable dishes: soda Veyrat (mint, sour mustard), virtual yoghurt that really taste like foie gras, the local fish was incredibly fresh flavored with mint cappuccino sauce. The (seared) langoustine served in sashimi-like style, the virtual noodle melting in the pot is interesting and entertaining. I love my main course: “steak pie” with cheese and some summer black truffle in between. Also, let’s not forget the signature dish: tartifilette (strong tastes and pungent smells of reblochon, potatoes with white wine, cream of bacon etc.) However, the desserts (by chef’s daughter) are not as memorable as the main dishes. Don’t get me wrong, they’re not bad; I just expected more from Veyrat’s establishment. The mignardises of crème brulee are slightly better than the desserts. Anticipating high price, I only had a glass of champagne (house brand), white and red wine. The 1st one (white) was 2004 Domaine G. Berlioz Chignin-Bergeron - it lacked in acidity with interesting aromas; another one (red) was 2004 Chateau le Puy - a dark wine with oak smell and a touch of creaminess. Strictly, for food, it has 98/100 (as good as or very closed to my standard meal at Arpege). It’s among the best 3-star places I’ve had Service (and ambiance) – 95/100 This restaurant is widely known as a blue house near Lake Annecy. The dining room is located at the rustic basement, but inside it’s spacious and warmth. Moreover, it’s rather modern surprisingly, many things are computerized. Staffs held their PDA to put instruction for kitchen etc. The service is as good as you would expect from 3-star level in France. Staffs are courteous, friendly and passionate with their jobs. They’re proud of working for world class restaurant and very knowledgeable. They’re also never late to pour water, change napkins or if you need any assistance. If not mistaken, the ratio of staffs and guest is closed to one-to-one. The chef loves walking around and talks to whoever guests speaking French. I don’t but he tried to speak English. I told him I was a big fan of Passard’s and he said in English “Oh, Passard is one of my good friend”. It’s possible that the chef used to be a proud man, but the ski incident might have changed his personality to be more convivial. The experience here is as good as it gets; you got what you paid for. It’s sad news to know that people will not be able to savor Veyrat’s 3-star food anymore; at the same time I’m happy to have tried it at least once. The overall experience here is 97/100 (a solid 3-star in my notes), as a matter of fact, this is my 2nd best restaurant I’ve ever been (Arpege stays at the top, and Le Louis XV holding the 3rd place). Here are the pictures, Maison Veyrat pictures This is the review, Marc Veyrat review

Switzerland can be considered somewhat quite in the world of gastronomy despite having one of the world’s best chefs in the 20th century (Fredy Girardet). I went to his disciple’s (Rochat) place earlier and found it very good … comparable to a few Parisians top places. In addition to L’Hotel de Ville, a few claimed another great restaurant (even better) in the area will be Rabaey’s Pont de Brent; Girardet said Rabaey is the best in Switzerland … for me, well I do not fully agree Food (and wine) - 93/100 The meal began with various amuse such as: sardine, croquette, bread with tomato, tuna etc. They’re decent … There are 2 tasting menu and many a la carte dishes (though Rochat’s has more variety) – roast John Dory or Duck for 2 people look interesting, I ordered menu gourmand (about 8 courses besides mignardise and amuse). The highlight of the menu is the mushroom dishes served in a small pan – cepes, chanterelle and mushrooms raviolis – they’re flavorful and delicious. As expected, there would be many luxury ingredients … the Breton lobster looks beautiful on pictures served tender to my likeness, but the taste is weak. The same thing happen to the turbot and loup, both are rather bland. Moreover, both serve with similar sauce – cockle juice for the turbot and mussel saffron for the loup. The main course, sweetbread served with different kinds of vegetables save the day; it’s cooked until perfectly brown, the meat is tender … I wish it were sweeter/richer like Arpege’s or Ledoyen’s Nothing memorable with the desserts – the 1st one pear tart with canele ice cream and nuts, a combination of sweet things … something refreshing would be better. The citron soufflé (served in untraditional way – light and flavorful by itself) is better than the pear, served with coconut ice cream and pineapple on the side. There are several chocolates served at the end as petit fours. I only ordered 2 glasses of wine to accompany my meal: local white wine from Villeneuve (2004 blanc de la grotte) and 1999 pinot noir de Chardonne for the red. The food, in general, is nice but not special as you should expect in the restaurant carrying Michelin’s highest award (93/100, 2 ½ * - about Le Bristol level) Service (and ambiance) - 92/100 The restaurant is relatively small. Like many other 3-star places, the capacity is at most 35 pax. I could not recall anything special in the dining room, but it was busy for lunch. The restaurant is located around mountainous area, overlooking a lake from a distance – peaceful. The wonderful thing about Michelin 3-star in Europe is that they are everywhere, some in the middle of nowhere that make them unique on their own – something that America and Asia lack (there maybe a few in Japan). The service is about the average of 3-star places … professional and friendly, but not personal. The manager did not seem to be in a good mood, but did not allow it to affect his performance. Should you go here? Probably if you’re in the area, but I would recommend to visit Hotel de Ville first. However, go to France, Spain or Germany first for a better gastronomy experience. Yet, I did not regret to have visited this place … no plan to return there. Pictures, pont de brent 08

One thing I know ... One of the best beef I've ever eaten is at Pierre Gagnaire French beef Julot, you should try it if you had a chance It kills the filet mignon/porterhouse I had at Morton while I was in Chicago several years ago The other good beef is, of course, in Japan (even the non-Kobe is marbled to some extend) By the way, is veal simply a young cow aka calf? It seems that the taste, texture and other properties are (very) different

The top 50 list somehow translates ... The world's best restaurant serving Chinese cuisine is in London (Hakkasan), The world's best restaurant serving Japanese cuisine is in New York (Masa) - Narisawa's food tends to be French I think - previous years Nobu London serves the top Japanese food according to the guide ??? Unbelievable Cannot help it

Hi Robyn, Thanks for the info, I will check them out if I get a chance in the future. I know you're a big fan of Guy Savoy My favorite fish is actually turbot, I'd love to try Gagnaire's version (or Roellinger's but it's no longer there) Whereas for poultry, either Pacaud's or Frechon's chicken but they always require 2 people sadly

I will not put a long introduction here as everyone’s pretty much knowledgeable about this restaurant – one of the most often discussed places in any forums Food (and wine) - 97/100 When I visited L’Ambroisie this year, I thought that in the late Sep/early Oct, the game season or white truffle season already starts. As I saw the menu … well, it’s still in the summer. Everybody knows that the 1st half of 2008, the commodity prices shot to the roof and it’s no exception here. Almost everything increases 10-15% (both food and wine), the curry langoustine is almost EUR 95, hot-cold egg with caviar (> EUR 130). Did anyone ever try egg (non-truffle season), John Dory or pigeon dish here? How are they? I didn’t dare to order since I hardly heard that someone said they’re great There are 2 dishes that I really wanted to try – Bar with caviar and artichoke as well as any lobster dish (different preparation than the one with new potatoes). I love both of them very much. The sea bass (demi-portion) is pure and delicate with creamy caviar sauce (not soggy at all), a well-balanced dish. Equally as good is the lobster dish – Pacaud liked served the lobster in the firm texture, the lobster juice with sweet & silky anise sauce is simply irresistible. It’s served with carrots, leeks and zucchinis; it’s simple and delicious (though it may look complicated since so many things are there). Lastly, I had a half-portion of lamb (glad to do that) … by itself, it’s a nice dish especially the skin but I find it has too much fat – the meat is not that much. Too bad that I’ve tasted better lamb somewhere else (such as Troisgros’ lamb loin or Passard’s T-bone) that makes this dish not really outstanding. The dessert here could easily cost EUR 35-40 each, I already exceeded my budget so I decided to skip it this time (monsieur Pascal was a bit surprised). For the cheese … somehow I’m never interested in the cheese selection here. To accompany my dishes, I had a half-bottle of ’98 Chateau Kirwan grand cru - it's seductive with rounded palate and has black olive aromas, but no secondary development. This wine is not too strong, so it still goes well even with fish or sea food dishes. This Bordeaux is well-crafted and enjoyable to drink after 2007 indeed. Another good meal here … 97/100 (3* for food – as good as Gagnaire & Le Louis XV) Service (and ambiance) - 93/100 I was seated in the middle dining room this time (more than half of the guests are seated here as a matter of fact). It’s more spacious and beautiful than the front one with crystal chandeliers and large, colorful tapestries – there are tall gilded mirrors in between. Overall, the service is professional. Monsieur Pascal and LeMoullac somehow recognized me that I had visited this place before while the rests are just fine – they do what they need to do but no flair. Dining at L’Ambroise (and possibly L’Astrance) is all about the food and wine – not much about overall dining experience, no outstanding service (like in Ducasse’s or Arpege) or particularly “wow” décor (like in Le Meurice or other palace restaurants). Put that aside, for me, it’s still in my top 5-7 of world’s best restaurants. I graded 96/100 (strong 2 ¾* for general experience – this should stay as long as Pacaud is not retired). Here what I ate, L'Ambroise pictures 08 For more details review, L'Ambroise review 08

In 2005, Alain Senderens (Lucas Carton) gave up his 3-star, Antoine Westermann (Buerehiesel) followed the same path in 2006. Then, near the end of 2008, another legendary chef – Olivier Roellinger decided to close his 3-star place for good. What’s going on? Most people already knew - the big pressure to keep Michelin’s highest accolade drove most chefs to throw the award that brought them glory. Chefs have given up too many things just for the sake of the 3-star: family, free time as well as savings. I missed both Lucas Carton and Buerehiesel, but fortunately just 2 months before Maisons Bricourt closed forever, I had a chance to savor the food of Roellinger, the connoisseur of seafood, vegetable and spices Food (and wine) - 96/100 It took me more than 3 hrs to go to Cancale from Paris. It was cloudy with nice breeze. I reached the restaurant 15 minutes earlier, just walked around the area and visited the shop next door. There are more than 100 different spices, mostly with Asian flavors. Not many French chefs using spices in their cooking. Roellinger is such an expert in the use of spices that even Michel Troisgros uses Roellinger’s curry recipe for cooking the veal sweetbreads. Anyway, it has become a habit for me to order the restaurant’s biggest tasting menu wherever I dine at Europe’s top places. I had “Image of St Malo country” menu. It consists of more than 8 dishes including cheese tray and desserts. A few of the dishes remind me of Asian foods. For instance, the cream of coconut with sweet prawns is similar to Singapore laksa and the clear broth of Tonkin tastes like Thailand tom yum – the different is that Roellinger’s versions are lighter, cleaner and of course better =.= Some of the memorable dishes will be: the tender lobster served in sublime sauce (a balance of lobster juice, sherry sauce and cocoa powder) – the 2nd best lobster I’ve ever tasted. I also love the juicy Aubrac lamb that work well with chutney and other mix vegetables. Fruit is an important element in the cooking at Maisons Bricourt, and as expected both desserts I had involve pear and mango. The food here is indeed as good as advertised. It’s sad news that Roellinger retired from haute gastronomy, but at least I tasted it once and it was memorable. I only had 2 simple glasses of wine – 2002 Muscadet sevre et maine (Loire Valley) and 1998 Chateau de Pibarnon (South of France) – to accompany my tastring menu.The food here is one of the best I’ve ever had in France outside Paris. I gave 96/100 (solid 2 ¾* - equal to Le Meurice and Oud Sluis). With the food this good, I was surprised that it took a while before Michelin bestowed its 3-star to Maisons Bricourt. Oh also … the big degustation menu, 2 glasses of wine and 1 big bottle of Chateldon cost < EUR 200, wonderful food as well as value of money Service (and ambiance) - 93/100 The service is professional; staffs show interest and cares toward their guests. The chef himself is very friendly and humble. He seems to be very content at this stage of his life. He often travels overseas to keep himself up to date. Even, Roellinger is quite familiar with many spices from Indonesia! The dining room is nice and comfortable. Facing a duck pond and simple garden, it’s a peaceful place for dining – nothing luxurious. The restaurant is about ¾ full, and mostly were locals. The overall experience of my dining is 95/100 (2 ¾ *, Michelin got it correct to bestow the highest grade for this place). How I wish I could ate his legendary John Dory with 14 spices or Turbot with curcuma and pineapple … Here are the pictures, Maisons bricourt fall 08

Going to Paris without visiting Arpege is something hard to imagine for me nowadays. Therefore, as expected, I did another visit last Fall 2008 when I went for my other gastronomy trip to Europe. l’Arpege is the only restaurant, besides Le Louis XV where I visited more than once during this visit. And as usual, they never disappoint Food (and wine) - 98/100 For the 1st meal, I ordered their tasting menu – cuisine choisie. There are some dishes that I’ve never tried before, such as: tomato gazpacho, risotto (with rice, not radish), sole and sweet bread. The egg amuse will always be there and still delicious. I also loved the sweet and sour lobster (about as scrumptious as the one with vin jaune). The sole … is rather thin but fantastic with some butter sauce, better than Pacaud’s or Ducasse’s version. Then come the crunchy and creamy sweetbread, it’s delicately sweet with some vegetables on the side. Again, Passard’s outdoes the Ledoyen version. The desserts … I was not too keen of the raspberries with hibiscus, but the apple tart is as tasty as advertised, also the airy soufflé with chocolate … yummy. Oh, I also forgot to mention the best cheese in the world – 48 month old comte by Anthony is insanely good. For the 2nd meal, I came for lunch for the 1st time. Actually, I like the ambiance better and it was bright, more importantly I was hungry. I let Passard to orchestrate a menu for my birthday. This time, there were lots of vegetables. Some of the new and memorable ones are: melon and mozzarella, yellow beetroot carpaccio with vinegar. Then, I ate (again) the famous succulent lobster in buttery sauce and yellow wine – the best lobster in the world, period. 2 years ago, I saw other clients ordered free range chicken prepared with hay in a casserole, this time I tasted it. The skin with thin fat inside not too crispy, but it’s tasty nevertheless. For desserts, I liked the legendary Millefeuille – it’s really delicious, crispy and as light as air (easily in my top 3 best desserts ever). Oops, not to forget the mixed vegetables (prepared in different temperatures) from the garden … fresh, pure with deep flavors. The wine here is indeed very expensive, to the point does not really make sense price wise. So, the focus is more of having some decent ones with more reasonable price that will work well with the food. Under the new sommelier, Steeve Jicquel – he’s as funny and friendly as his predecessor, Stephane Thivat. His choices are not bad at all. I enjoyed my Alsace Riesling, white Burgundy or the Languedoc white wine. And the Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve is an excellent choice to begin your meal here. The food here is 98/100 (a solid 3*, only my 1st visit here could top that) Service (and ambiance) - 98/100 Helene Cousin is now the restaurant after Laurent Lapaire left the restaurant. She’s helped by the new assistant, Nadia who is about as good as herself. As a matter of fact, Arpege changes more than half of its dining room team – they maybe young, but they’re professional, efficient and vigilant. Moreover, they’re friendly and willing to chat with any guests. The restaurant is full in both occasions, especially during dinner they really push it to the limit but still sufficient spaces for staffs to move around. It’s rather romantic in the evening, and since I’ve visited here a couple of times plus the cordial teams, I do really feel at home here. No wonder, this is my favorite place to dine in the world and my meal here ranked as the best I’ve ever had in 2008. Another wonderful meal … I bestowed the highest grade for l’Arpege in terms of the overall experience as well 98/100 (probably the best even among other 3-star places). Here are the pictures, Arpege Pictures Autumn 08 Here is a more lengthy review, Arpege Review Autumn 08