ulterior epicure

Edward. I'd suggest calling now and then periodically up until the day of... I got in on a reservation just a week before I was to leave for NYC... it was completely on a whim that I picked up the phone and tried. I didn't expect anything - but I was pleasantly surprised to have gotten a table on such short notice. u.e.

My, my - it looks like Elliot and Ronnie have been quite busy lately! I have only been to Hot Chocolate once - for brunch. But, that didn't stop me from trying some ice creams (though not as many as you two had) and their flight of hot chocolates. I must say, I'm pretty much a dark chocolate person and out of preference didn't care for the milk or the white. Does anyone know what kind of chocolates Segal uses?

And let me apologize for never posting a followup here - the night I tried to go, it was without reservations and we were proposed a 40 minute wait so we went elsewhere. So reservations highly highly recommended, even sameday. I called at 6:30pm for an 8:30, and secured a 9pm, and then she went into this long explanation in Keigo that I didn't get all of, but I surmised that they'll call me a bit earlier if things let up - ← Oh good, we get a second chance... I was quite disappointed to have missed a report last time. Don't let us down! u.e.

I'm a little confused... monkfish, do you mean M&D, not M&G? Who are M&G? u.e.

Ohmygosh - Eliot - that looks like an absolute calorie fest worth having! Thanks for the pictures and the report. Have you been to Custom House? If so, how would you compare the two (sorry if this has been covered somewhere above). u.e.

Can you describe this item in more detail? I think I may have had it the other night... I don't know how I could have missed this - but happy belated. u.e.

bandregg. If I'm not mistaken, a discussion about the bakery that chicagowench was referring to can be found here. Hope this helps. u.e.

When I lived in Evanston, I used to go up to Mustard's Last Stand on Central, right next to Northwestern's stadium for hot dogs... used to bike over there - even when it was too cold to be biking... Has anyone been recently? Is that place still around?

ChefCAG and I have joked about my initial comments about bluestem on my blog... and ditto with GEB. If I've joined you, wench, on the personae non gratae list, then they're doing a good job of hiding it. u.e.

I use it as a directory. It's certainly more comprehensive than any of the ones we have around here... Know that there's another "foodie" in K.C. who unwraps presents along with you on Wednesday and Thursday mornings. In Europe, the Michelin is held to the same esteem as "football," the Pope, and "my mother." I miss that. Most of the food reviews around here are good for the bird cage. On the Michelin note, FWIW, I find it immensely more accurate in NYC than in Europe - especially France - ironic... I can't wait for the Michelin San Francisco publication in October! u.e.

monkfish_103, can you justify these two statements? Also, if I'm not mistaken, there was an article profiling you (and maybe 4 other chefs) recently in the KC Magazine. If you asked them to pull you, they didn't do it. Well, yes, and no. I don't believe it takes tourism in order to generate/sustain a strict rating system. I think it just takes a publication's/critic's initiation - and of course, legitimacy, skill and know-how. I agree with JWest, that competition results in higher quality output as well as consumer expectation - but pretty much only in the U.S. In Europe it seems to almost be the opposite - where the remote "destination" restaurants, like El Bulli, L'Arnsbourg, El Raco Can Fabe The Fat Duck, Michel Bras, and so on are the true gems. The only examples I can think of in the U.S. that fit that model might be The French Laundry and the Herb Farm - maybe Cyrus... but then again, Napa too is starting to get saturated. European capitals are often crowded with a herd of mediocre restaurants with bloated prices - Paris, comes to mind - as does London. Here, in the U.S., you'll find the best eating in our large cities - NYC, SF, Chicago, etc... That being said, I think the reason why KC has grown so much, gastronomically, in the last decade is because of dedicated chefs like Gold & Smith, ChefCAG & Co., M. Raphael, and others who have put foie gras, sweetbreads, and tartare on the gustatory radar of curious, adventurous - and yes, even knowledgeable locals. Instead of force-feeding, they have seduced and tempted. I really applaud them for their initiative. As well, I think a lot of KC's slow food movement (not meant in the Alice Waters sense) is due to the city's lack of racial/ethnic diversity. It has only been in the last twenty years (and that's sort of stretching it) that more shades of skin have been seen in the city - exerting a need and the availability of more diverse foods. While small enclaves of Latino cultures pocketed the city, and a few Chinese restaurants dotting the city, the vast majority of restaurants in KC were either "American" (mostly chains), or Black-owned. If you wanted Italian: Olive Garden, "Mexican:" Taco Bell, British: Long John Silvers... but that's best saved for another thread. My own assessment is that the village people are hungry and curious, and lots of national and local press has encouraged them. But, unfortunately, I think there are some sources that confuse and retard them. One by one... For example, I was out to dinner with a couple of good friends who are usually pizza and beer type of folks. They let me order. Would you believe it was their first time having scallops? Polenta? Foie gras? I wasn't. Like many, they had "heard" of these things, but didn't know if they were animal from vegetable - and certainly never ventured to order it. My friends scraped up every bit of foie gras on that plate - every last bit of that polenta was gone. Had that chef not put it on the menu, they (nor I) would have had that experience. One, by one... I look forward to the day when Kansas Citians and the chefs won't bat an eyelash to scoopin' sea urchins and dishing out tripe stews. To get back on topic. I think a city's restaurant critic(s) should not serve as a voice to coddle the masses into wallowing in their comfort - but to inject into the city an informative bias as to what they believe is quality. Like ronnie mentioned above, a critic, whether you agree with him/her or not, must develop an identifiable voice. They need not establish a rapport - merely come from a vantage where you are able to mark your territory in relation to them. Good or bad, a successful critic, IMO, should be such that his/her readers are able to formulate a confident direction from their reviews. Personally, Chapin looses me. She's all over the place with her reviews - they have no unity or voice. Not only are her multiple category ratings (food/service/decor) distracting, but her dispensation of stars seem almost random. As for content, she seems at once knowledgeable, but without taste or discernment. Rattling of facts don't help me decide whether or not I want to eat at a particular restaurant or not. I usually leave her reviews just as undecided or clueless about the establishment as before. And, after a while, this type of confusion breeds distrust... I understand that being a critic isn't an easy job. It can't be. But, they should elicit some emotion from the readers other than confusion - which is how Chapin leaves me. For instance, Frank Bruni at the NY Times has been a very controversial critic - but at least readers know where stand in relation to his reviews. He may not always get the stars right, (I personally think he's got them mostly right - by instinct (and this is why I actually kind of like him) - but not in exposition), but he definitely has an opinion... and he can be an entertaining read. I think it's interesting that this thread and the one on Bruni in the NY forum have been the most active in my inbox notification this week. Wow, I've written too much - if you've made it through, feel free to verbally abuse me over p.m. u.e. [edited for grammar]

Surely part of this goes to a charitable cause? Or the ban-foie gras campaign fund? I don't think it's a matter of being too rich for my blood - I don't think mine is rich enough for his! u.e.

At any rate, I hope that this thread can be constructively used. I look forward to future dialogues. u.e.

Bruni's "pedigree" I know. Fill me in on the Grimes, please? What was he in previous professional/career lives?

Ahhhh yes... this is a very familiar phenomenon to me. Unlike many, I actually prefer lighter - more crystallized ice creams - one having a higher proportion of milk. This is why I don't care for super premium ice creams (like Cold Stone Creamery) - they end up having the mouthfeel of frozen butter. I've played around a little with ice creams in my kitchen. By no means are my methods "exact science" - so proceed with caution. Next time, try this: Keep the one cup of cream, but instead of six eggs, use three and sub in a 1 1/2 cup of regular milk. Or, you may want to dispense with the whole custard idea altogether and make a gelato-like ice cream by subbing in 2 or 3 cups of milk instead of the eggs. The only problem with this is that you're going to inevitably end up with a harder ice cream. It'll be less creamy and harder to scoop. But, it won't have that greasy mouthfeel. Good luck! u.e.

I put them in cornbread...the smoked ones. I add a little latin spice mix and it's pretty good. ← Do you know where I might find a recipe for that? If you wouldn't mind, p.m. me or email me? Thanks for the suggestions! Any others? u.e.

Here's one that will definitely be a challenge - anyone got a recipe or viable use for canned oysters? Don't ask how they ended up in my pantry... u.e.

"KCBS" - Kansas City Barbecue Society?

Well, I agree with much of what he said. Having said that, I still don't think he is a good reviewer or writer... ← While I respect your opinion, and I would agree that Bruni isn't exactly the savviest food critic the NY Times has seen, but your statement is unqualified. Can you articulate what your "beef" with Bruni is? u.e.

The New York forum has a (a number of) thread(s) on F. Bruni and his reviews, San Francisco's got theirs for Bauer, and D.C., for Sietsma. I thought I'd start one up for our city's resident newspaper critic, Lauren Chapin. I just read Chapin's "review" on Winslow's BBQ down in the River Market District. In it, she writes: I had to do a double-take on this statement. Is bbq as breakfast a "thing" that I don't know about? I mean, I was pretty much born and raised in KC, and I've never heard of BBQ as a traditional breakfast fare. Can someone care to clarify for me?

I didn't know this was possible - I thought 1924 Main was strictly a three course prix fixe restaurant at dinner. Can you order dishes there a la carte?

Her husband, Lazer, is pretty handy with the mixer as well. u.e.

I swear to god it's not us!

Slight tangent: LaMar's Donuts originated in KC. Until this year, I thought they were still exclusive in KC - BOY WAS I WRONG!! Personally, I prefer my Ray's Donuts on Vivion Road in the Northland. It's not close to my home at all, but I'll get up at 6am to make a special detour there before heading out for the day just for the blueberry cake donuts. u.e.

Big Country: re: Legends chain restaurants. What do you mean? I think nestled and tucked amongst the chains is a branch of Arthur Bryant's BBQ... u.e.