ulterior epicure

I just had a (fantastic) dinner at Le Bernardin. With the exception of the inclusion of meat dishes, it does seem, from reading the menu and seeing your photos, that L.20 is more akin to Le Bernardin than to, say alinea. I can see how the presentation/plating of the dishes might remind one of Achatz's aesthetics, however. That being said, it *seems* to me (having never eaten at L.2) that a comparison to both Le Bernardin and alinea seems inadequate, if not inappropriate.

I recently had a great meal at Le Bernardin. We ordered the Chef's Tasting and supplemented in an additional course. Here's an excerpt from my my blog. You can read the rest of my review and see the photos at the ulterior epicure.

I was at the wine bar at the top of this month (May). As my friend and I were headed to a large dinner at Le Bernardin, we just had a glass of wine (each) and shared the scallop appetizer, which is as good as others here have noted. I did find the projection menu to be quite annoying, and cumbersome. As FG pointed out upthread, it provided great information about each wine. But, that could have been easily done on paper too. Of course, an under-projection system would make even more sense. The background music was slightly that side of tolerable. If I had to describe it, I'd say it was a muzak version of the soundtrack to a Bond film circa Sean Connery. You can see photos of the projection screens and more on my Flickr account.

"Rou" means "meat." FYI, Larry, your photo link sends me into a cyber blackhole. ← "Rou" means "meat", but "rou" without any modifiers (i.e., "chicken meat", "cow meat", "lamb meat", etc.) almost always means pork. ← Good point. But, I was just pointing out to larrylee that "rou" simply means meat, although, as you point out, without a modifier, it *usually* means pork.

I can give you some suggestions for Leelanau County and Traverse City (and from there to Petoskey, but that's off your route), but east of that, I'm blank. I do have one recommendation for Cadillac, at the end of the southern spur of the trail. Let me know... Here's some horse-related info about the trail. ← If you do make it up to Leenlanau, you must visit Mimi at The Grocer's Daughter. She's a wonderful woman making some wonderful chocolates.

No, but I know there's a significant black market for them in Chicago and Roses, Spain. Seriously, can I wax poetic about those flatbreads? I know I get them free with every meal already, but that was one of the most memorable things for me at wd~50. Do they still have those?

Has anyone been to JoJo recently and would be kind enough to report? Specifically, I'm curious about their lunch, which, as I see from gaf's post in 2005, has increased to $24.07 from $20. I can't believe how much of a steal lunch prices are in this city!

Did anyone here ever have the "braised chard pizza" at moto?

As far as I can tell, or that is to say, the only difference I can spot, is that the Charcuterie platter on the real menu is $39 and includes more things like the Foie Gras and the Tongue. If there are other differences, I failed to spot them. ← Thanks, markk. Actually, if you click on the lunch menu in .pdf, the Charcuterie is so listed ($39 for 2 - and assortment as you suggest).

I know it's a lot to ask, given the incredibly annoying loading and set-up process of Benoit's website, but can someone who has been recently for lunch tell me if the online menu is anywhere near accurate to the real (current) menu?

Looking for an Eastern European restaurant in Kansas City. Are there any?

And, if you mean the use of pork fat at Babbo, I was under the impression that there's a lot more olive oil used than lard. Please tell me (someone) that I'm right.

Hrm, I'd argue pasta. How so? What are the notable pork dishes at Babbo? Every notable dish I can think of at Babbo involves either pasta or non-pork offal. Of course, I'm an offalhead, so getting it out of that gutter is hard for me.

re: "Cutting through the fat." If this dish is what I *think* it is, and if by "cutting through," you mean to eliminate the fat altogether, then that is criminal, in Mandarin-speak. Believe it or not, Chinese people DO eat the fat. In fact, as Sneakeater seems to understand, the fat IS the point of the dish. That being said, I eat it the fat with heavy (pun intended) moderation. That is, I allow myself one piece. Otherwise, I have too much of a guilty conscience for the rest of the week to bear, knowing I could have had a bucketful of ice cream instead.

"Rou" means "meat." FYI, Larry, your photo link sends me into a cyber blackhole.

But there's a lot of hidden pork. For example, when I went, one fish dish was accompanied by a cylinder of rice. It was delicious, maybe the best rice I've ever had. I asked the chef if he did anything special to it to make it so good. His response: "No. Nothing special. I just brushed it with pork fat." ← I don't think I'm the only one who would argue that, on top of salt, sweet, bitter, sour and umami, lard is the sixth taste.

Not sure that I understand you. The link you provide goes to a restaurant apparently specializing in crudi, in Italy. Sure, I will concede that other cultures have forms of marinated raw seafood.

unless crudo has somehow been backward imported to Italy from NY (not likely based upon the Italians I know), this simply isn't true. ← I "think" that slkinsey's quotes make this point clear.

Now, wait a minute. WK2 said that the tasting was "heavy" for him/her. S/he also mentioned that there was a significant amout of pork and pork fat. Assuming that Chang is still doing an iteration of crudo (or raw seafood), and assuming he's doing the shaved foie gras, then that's presumably two courses without (any?) pork. Now, the foie gras, by no means is a "light" course, even if it seems so. Unless they're frying the dessert in pork fat, or there's bacon in it, that's another course without pork. Are we just magnifying the amount of pork (product) that is actually used in momofuko ko's food? "Feeling" heavy is one thing, but being over-porked is another.

I think that if pork came up over & over again in a long tasting menu at any other 3 or 4-star restaurant, as it does at Ko, it would probably be considered a weakness. ← Being a foreigner, who's primary experience with the momofukus is through this forum (and another one), I see the issue being whether the momofukus' (yes, collectively) primary focus (forte set aside for now) is on pork. If so, then perhaps the disconnect (with regard to WK2's observation and the subsequent posts) between diner and tasting menu resides in the fact that the restaurant(s) fail to state (or acknowledge firmly) that pork is their focus. If not, then I think oakapple's observation is particularly worthwhile. Certainly, from what I've heard, pork is a major concern of Chang's and his repertoire. I have not had the bo ssam at momofuko ssam bar. Neither have I had the Berkshire noodles at momofuku noodle bar. In fact, from my one meal at each, I can only count the two plates of cured hams as my only pork encounters at a Chang restaurant (I know, this may seem criminal to some of you) - and neither were of his making. I also know that, whether it's true or not, Chang prides himself on his pork dishes/creations. However, a chef's pride in and usage of a certain product does not mean that his/her restaurant specializes in that product. From what I know about momofuko ssam and momofuko noodle bar, I would say that pork is a point of pride, maybe even the house specialty, but by no means their one and only; there are just too many great non-pork dishes at both to pigeon-hole them in that way. Whether momofuko ko is a pork-devoted restaurant, I do not know. Certainly, if pork showed up multiple times on a tasting menu at a restaurant with no "specialization," then yes, I would consider it to be a weakness. But, if fish didn't show up multiple times, if not on every course, on a tasting menu at Le Bernardin, I would consider that a fatal flaw. Edited to add: I failed to recall the very lovely steamed buns, which contained pork belly, that I've had at both ssam and noodle bar.

NancyH, I echo your experience. But, doc not being alone in having repeatedly successful meals at Frontera Grill, I am encouraged to re-visit and re-consider.

There are two things that I failed to mention (or remember) in my earlier post about my lunch at Esca: 1. There were sizable pieces of lobster coral throughout my Spaghetti. Most of my companions didn't care for it; more for me. 2. All three crudi were marinated in olive oil and (I venture) some form of acid: Snapper - dusted with black salt Bonito - citrus and topped with citrus zest Bluefish - topped with sliver of jalepeno

slkinsey, thanks for the much more articulate observations than mine. I concur on all fronts. It's not incoincidental that the dinner the night before my lunch at Esca was at Le Bernardin. My thoughts on that will be shared shortly. I am the type who can be very impressed by a piece of perfectly-cooked and very fresh piece of bluefish; but, maybe not blown away. As you and I both agree, it's exciting for what it is. FYI, the sea urchin and crabmeat primo (with maccheroni alla chitarra) is the same as the one in Pasternack's book, if you have it. I have no idea what other sea urchin pastas Esca has served in the past.

One more for the obit: Sarah's Eat Drink Art. This makes me sad, given that it was locally-owned, and had a fine house salad, when it was done properly. I have no information on what is going to happen with the space. I've heard a couple of things, but none confirmed.

I recently had a lunch here with a few friends. (A more comprehensive review (with pictures) can be found at the ulterior epicure.) Is Esca as INSANELY good as some claim it is? I don't know, I've only been once. But, based on this one visit, I'd say no. That's not to say that there weren't singular sensations, like the "Spaghetti" primo with chilis, mint and a one-pound lobster and the "Linguine" with Mahongoy clams, hot red pepper and pancetta. Ever the seasonal chef, Pasternack's menu was chock a block with the treasures of Spring. There were ramps, fiddleheads, soft shell crabs, and shad roe. Here's what the four of us managed to polish off: Antipasti Crudo: bluefish, bonito, and snapper (2 orders) Porri Selvatici: crostini of ramps and tuna bottarga Prosciutto d'Oca: House-cured wild goose prosciutto with California asparagus Fegato di Pescatrice: Seared monkfish liver with dates, wild spring greens and dandelion honey vinaigrette. Bresaola di Tonno: Tuna prosciutto with a salad of baby arugula Primi Linguine: with briny Mahogany clams, hot red pepper, and pancetta Spaghetti: with chilis, mint and one-pound lobster Bigoli: house-made whole wheat spaghetti with sardines, walnuts and fennel compote Maccheroni alla Chittara: House-made guitar-cut spaghetti with sea urchin and crab meat Secondi Orata Americana per Uno: whole-grilled local porgy for one (or for two) with salsa verde Uova di Cheppia: sauteed shad roe with house-pickled vegetables and whole grain mustard vinaigrette Pesce Sera: local bluefish with asparagus, sugar snap peas, fiddleheads, and mint Polipo: grilled octopus with giant corona beans, preserved Sorrento lemon, and rosemary vinaigrette Contorni: beets, baby carrots, spring onions, mushrooms, and green beans The antipasti were, across the board, the weakest dishes. The low point being the Fegato di Pescatrice (seared monkfish liver). It was off: muddy and fishy. I can understand the temptation to cast it with sweet accompaniments, since it is somewhat similar to foie gras, but the dates and the dandelion honey vinaigrette sent this dish sailing past restrained into cloying territory. The crudo, for which Pasternack is best known, was very fresh. But, at this point in our world's culinary development, quite boring. Perhaps ten or fifteen years ago, this trio of raw fish, slightly marinated with olive oil and a touch of citrus, might have been revolutionary. Now, it just seems like raw fish slightly marinated with olive oil and a touch of citrus. This is not to understate the freshness and simplicity (see the theme here?) of the three squares of meat; the bluefish and bonito, especially, had excellent flavor and texture. I've just realized that I prefer my raw fish left alone, or draped over vinegary rice. The primi were the strongest dishes. The Linguine and Spaghetti were my favorites, each for their own reasons. The Bigoli was fantastic as well. Despite the lusty mix of sardines, walnuts and fennel compote, the texture of the thicker whole wheat pasta is what really what woo'ed me. I think everyone at our table agreed (surprisingly) that the Maccheroni alla Chitarra was the least interesting primo. What's the point of mixing sea urchin in with (a lot of) butter? I want my sea urchin up front and center. The crab meat was nice. The secondi were all very good, but paled slightly in comparison to the primi. The bluefish was outstanding, even without the side of fiddleheads, sugar snaps, and asparagus. The fillet of fish was exceedingly fresh and buttery, not trace of oily fishiness. The grilled (whole) porgy was also rewarding, especially the salsa verde that came as a condiment. Polipo, coils of octopus tentacles atop a mound of giant corona beans, was typical of a Batali enterprise: impossibly soft and tender with charred, almost crispy, edges. I don't think that there was a more impressive dish than the sauteed shad roe. The inside was perfectly done; a consistency not unlike thick, warm grits: sturdy, textured, but creamy. The side of pickled vegetables really helped cut the richness. The table of octogenarians next to ours ordered the last (five) orders of the soft shell crabs done 2 ways (pan-fried and deep-fried). *Fist shakes* A note on service: It was attentive and polite, if not unnecessarily placating at points (maybe the theater district crowd expects the theatrics?). There was a noticeably long wait between primi and secondi. I wasn't doing cartwheels out of the restaurant. But, I don't think this type of food is supposed to prompt such a response. (After antipasti, primi, and secondi with contorni, such a reaction might actually be dangerous, if possible at all.) Esca's food is very fresh, it's properly-treated, well-executed, and it speaks for itself. For that, I'd happily return - especially for the price. The most expensive item we ordered (by $5) was the "Spaghetti," which given that it included a one-pound lobster, was very reasonable at $30. Again, you can find a much more comprehensive review (with pictures) at the ulterior epicure