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ulterior epicure

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Everything posted by ulterior epicure

  1. Over Aurora? By the way, how is Brix in Ft. Worth?
  2. Thanks to everyone else on this forum. I think I've concluded that the following is my best plan of attack: Dinner: Tasting Room at Lola (note to self, get the salumi as an extra - will they let me do that in the Tasting Room?) Dinner: Aurora or York Street Dinner: Lanny's Lunch: Fearing's Lunch: ??? (A Saturday in Fort Worth) Brunch: La Duni (note to self: save room for cake) Other: Doughmonkey Any objections, votes, suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
  3. I don't mean to suggest anything by asking, but I'm just curious: were either you or your industry friend comped? It's not clear from your earlier post.
  4. Crap, I didn't see that date stamp (or bother to read the date of Kent's request). Sorry, Kent!! moosnsqrl: really? Wow. Not that I blame them.
  5. I've been told that Aurora and Lanny's (Ft. Worth) are both excellent as well.
  6. How has Abacus been doing since Wilcox's departure?
  7. Wishful thinking? ← Ay. See how gelato-obsessed I am? It leaks out in everything I say, do, and feel.
  8. If you're really serious about pursuing that Holy Grail, to the extent that you'd be willing to undertake an hour's drive out of Philadelphia, the Bent Spoon in Princeton, NJ and Viva Gelato in Pennington, NJ are worthy of inspection (Yes, I know they aren't in Pennsylvania, but I'm guessing u.e. isn't browsing the Jersey boards). Viva Gelato's texture is a little less smooth than Capogiro, but the flavors are more intense. The Bent Spoon has often inventive flavors and excellent ingredients. They're about 15 minutes apart from each other. ← It's funny you should mention the Bent Spoon, I was just eating about it on Serious Eats.
  9. Has anyone been more recently than January?
  10. Nope, not sacrilege at all. I'm *always* in search of the Holy Grail of gelato. Although Capogiro reigns supreme in the United States, with Otto not far behind, I'm not above considering others.
  11. Yes, that is my sense as well. I mean, you don't know how many years it's been since I've had a pastilla (actually, I can tell you, the last time I had a "bastilla" was at 3-star Can Fabes in San Celoni, Spain in 2005). I hope Zahav's is worth the wait.
  12. You and me, both. That's good to know, because I did notice that on the dessert menu and I had all but kicked off to the side, expecting another pedestrian corn meal-based cake-but-not-a-cake, pudding-but-not-a-pudding creation. As long as it doesn't interfere with my CPF, I'm game to try it.
  13. Okay, let me throw out some options and see if you think they should be axed: Fearing's Shinsei Abacus Stephen Pyle Craft Nobu
  14. If you get on the 1-29 Express and take it all the way downtown to stop #2 (13th and Walnut) you'll be in the new Power & Light District, which has a whole host of options. Personally, I'd skip all of these in favor of some of the restaurants just a few blocks away. If you want a nicer upscale lunch, I would suggest walking down to 19th and Main to Michael Smith. Just around the corner is a casual "bistro," 1924 Main. Actually, if you really want to hit one of Kansas City's most famous barbecue restaurants, you could, within reason, catch a cab from 13th and Walnut to Arthur Bryant's. For a decent pie, consider pizza bella, just south of the P&L at 18th and Baltimore. If you keep heading south on Baltimore until it dead-ends into 21st, you'll be at the Crossroad's Freighthouse which offers Lidia's, City Tavern, and Jack Stack Fiorella BBQ. Save room for Christopher Elbow's chocolates, which can be found on 18th and McGee. And, if you are still wanting something sweet (and naughty), head back up to the P&L District to chefBURGER and cool off with an order of one of their spiked milkshakes. This is all within walking distance of one another.
  15. Context: meeting up with a good friend. Her level of adventure is much less than mine. That being said, my friend will go along with almost anything. I am open to any cuisine, although I'd rather stick to those restaurants that are "particularly DFW" (i.e. I'm less likely to go to the outpost of Craft or Nobu, unless you all think they are truly superior to anything else in Dallas). Has anyone heard of La Duni? My friend has suggested that as a brunch on Sunday.
  16. I'm bumping this thread. I will have three nights and three days in Dallas/Ft. Worth with car. What are the hot (and, more importantly, GOOD) places in Dallas?
  17. Well, that's what I keep telling them. But, I'm not a New Yorker, so, who am I to say?
  18. I have been lectured one too many times by my New York friends that NOBODY in New York use restaurant websites. But, after a good long stretch of having one of the frumpiest fine dining restaurant websites, I really think that even you non-restaurant website-using New Yorkers will appreciate seeing Le Bernardin's new online digs.
  19. What is this "structure?" ← For a few weeks running, the menus would consist basically of soup (often with dumpling), charcuterie (this course varied most often, though), scallop dish, lamb dish, and dessert. Now, to be perfectly clear: as far as I'm concerned, the variations made every menu entirely distinctive - I was not one of those this bothered. Others have lower thresholds for tedium. And, in any case, this has not been true in recent weeks. ← That progression actually sounds quite perfect to me. I love scallops. I love lamb. Charcuterie is exciting. And dumplings in soup, perhaps a bit hearty for summer, but I'm game. Of course, as you pointed out, I won't be eating here repeatedly. Well, I guess I'm just going to toss a coin on these two restaurants, although Zahav is getting the edge just because it has rabbit pastilla.
  20. What is this "structure?" See, I love Israeli cuisine.
  21. I like *very* good Indian food. But, I have to admit, I don’t know that much about Indian food. It’s one of those world cuisines that I’m constantly striving to learn more about. What I do know, from reading quite a bit about Suvir Saran and Hemant Mathur, the co-executive chefs at dévi are extremely talented and offer one of the best modern Indian dining experiences in New York, if not the United States. I was excited to finally check out the hype. My friends and I agreed to have the five-course “Chef’s Tasting Menu.” Although each course offers choices, we were informed that the chef would like to cook the last two courses for us and send out desserts. We would only need to decide on which of the first two courses we wanted. There were only two choices for each of the first two courses. So, our party of four divided the plates so that we’d get to try both. Here is what our party had: First Course Dahi Batata Puri Wheat hollows, potato-chickpea salad, tamarind and mint chutneys, yogurt, chickpea noodles Shakarkandi Ki Chaat Crispy sweet potatoes, toasted cumin, lemon juice, chaat masala Second Course Grilled Scallops Roasted red pepper chutney, Manchurian cauliflower, spicy bitter-orange marmalade Manchurian Cauliflower Spicy garlic-infused tomato sauce, scallions Third Course Veal Brain and Liver Toasts Veal brain with quail eggs and cilantro, liver with onion-tomato sauce and cinnamon Fourth Course Tandoori Prawns Pomegranate marinade, crispy okra salad Spinach Goat Cheese Paratha Fifth Course Tandoor-Grilled Lamb Chops Sweet & sour pear chutney, spiced potatoes Intermezzo Yogurt-Peppermint Sorbet Sixth Course Emperor’s Morsel (Shahi Tukra) crispy saffron bread pudding, cardamom cream, candied almonds Mango Kulfi Indian ice cream, mango passion fruit sauce, fleur de sel, black peppercorn Lemon Trio Lemon cake, lemon-lemongrass sorbet, lemon curd Mango Cheesecake Rosewater-almond cookie crust, mango paté de fruit, mango crisp We let the wine director choose two bottles for us. He started us off with Marcel Deiss Riesling and switched over to La Crema Pinot Noir (2006, Anderson Valley) somewhere between the third and fourth courses. I thought both paired quite well with our food. Surprisingly, I favored the pinot noir, a varietal whose domestic growth I tend not to like. While the Shakarkandi Ki Chaat is not the most attractive creation, it probably the most unforgettable eating experience of the evening. The cake of diced sweet potatoes were at once soft and crispy. It’s as if they were first deep-fried and then lightly tossed with sauce and plated - the texture of tempura the nano-second after the dashi dunk. The flavor was no less dynamic than the Dahi Batata Puri. This was redolent with smoky cumin and laced with bracing, bright lemon tartness. Although milder than the other first course, this one was not shy on heat, either. The one dish that everyone raves about is the Manchurian Cauliflower. I had no idea what to expect, given that this was a Chinese-named dish being served at an Indian restaurant. I’ll sum it up in four words: sweet and sour cauliflower. These large florets appeared to be lightly battered, fried and then coated in a sticky sauce reminiscent to that which is used with chicken or pork at Chinese restaurants. Chef Hemant sent out an extra Tandoori Prawn for each of us. Beautifully-cooked, each prawn was the size of a small house pet, and brimming with bounce. Marinated in pomegranate juice and rubbed with spices, it offered a world of flavors: sweet, sour, savory, smoky and spicy. The crispy okra salad, an item on the a la carte menu that I had wanted to try, came with the prawn. It was a pile of shaved and desiccated (fried) okra with fresh onions, tomatoes and spices. With the prawns, the chef sent out an order of the Spinach Goat Cheese Paratha, which was something like a paratha and palak paneer quesadilla. The warm, fluffy wedges came with a loose yogurt sauce on the side. If I were to loose all sense of decency and restraint, I'm sure I could handily down a couple basketfuls of these parathas without blinking. Less impressive was the Grilled Scallop, which, though perfectly-cooked, was rather forgettable. Sauced with a red pepper chutney, the scallop was accompanied by single Manchurian cauliflower floret. The two offal-topped toasts were good, but not the exciting find that I was anticipating. The brains were exceedingly creamy and perhaps purposely served slightly cold. I've never had slightly cold brains. I'm not sure I like them slightly cold. But, I did like the flavor of the brains, especially with cilantro, which helped freshen them up a bit. If for nothing else, I appreciated the liver toast for the interesting combination of tomato and cinnamon, which helped temper the otherwise strong liver flavor. Sadly, service handicapped what was an otherwise rather successful dinner. First, they repeatedly served me things I was allergic to. I admit that I failed to notify them of my allergies (mango, eggplant and kiwi) at first. I was reminded that I needed to do so when the amuse bouche arrived. It was a folded phyllo cup filled with a mango salad of some sort. They graciously (and quickly) exchanged it for a Seafood and Crab Croquette with pickled green chile mayonnaise (it's on their regular menu). The molten-hot ball of minced seafood had a thick, crunchy, dark-golden crust. It was the first hit of appreciable heat of the evening for me; it made me glad I was allergic to mango. Later, our tandoori prawns showed up on a bed of eggplant stew. I looked at it for a second. My friends were just about to say something when another server whisked the plate away, apologizing for the mistake. My prawn returned with a slightly sweet tomato chutney. The kitchen sent out four different desserts. Given that they knew I was allergic to mango, I'm boggled as to why they would choose three mango desserts when there were more than three non-mango desserts on their regular menu. (I have no reason to doubt our server, but, I'm doubtful that there was actually a mango tuile on the "Lemon Trio.") The only dessert (out of the four) that I could eat - the restaurant's signature "Emperor's Morsel" - wasn't even given to me. Of course we traded plates. Of course, I didn't need to try four desserts (although my friends were able to sample every one). (I really shouldn't be complaining since there are only two choices on the Chef's Tasting Menu.) But, it would have been nice to see some level of forethought and care, if not coordination among the staff. The Emperor's Morsel is described as a saffron "bread pudding." I'd liken the texture to spongey fried dough. There was a faint hint of saffron, but cardamon took a more aggressive roll. Although it sent the dessert sailing into the "too-sweet" territory, I loved the pistachio brittle bits scattered on the plate for crunchy texture. There were a few other rocky moments in service, like when our lamb showed up immediately after our shrimp. The captain shooed the servers away, cleared our plates, and served us a refreshing intermezzo of (half-melted) yogurt and mint sorbet before recalling the chops to our table. I must admit that my expections of dévi were coloured by its Michelin one star rating. I know that many (especially local New York fine diners) put little, if any stock in the Michelin Guide Rouge New York. And, for the same reason, it may be unbelievable (or beside the point) to some that I found dévi a couple of shades more casual than I had been expecting. Yes, I was anticipated (although not necessarily hoping for) something a little more refined. (This observation sparked a rather lively discussion, subsequently, on this forum and elsewhere.) However, even though service at our table verged on amateurish at times, I can't say that dévi was too casual to bear. It was refreshing to enjoy wonderfully-executed food in a relaxed setting. I suppose there's something special and wholly unique about eating shakarkandi ki chaat and sipping German Riesling with the sultry, smoky stylings of Nora Jones playing in the background. The restaurant's colourful schema is quite lovely. Next time, I'm going to request one of the gauze-lined banquette tables in the back of the ground level room. The bar is more pathetic and useless than the bar at Adour at the St. Regis. It's as if a Tiki hut from Waikiki Beach landed at some random Indian restaurant near Union Square. Overall, dévi's food was very good, some of it was great. Given time, I'm sure I'll return with adjusted expectations and will eagerly try many of the other items on the menu. You can read the entire review at the ulterior epicure.
  22. That is *awesome* jm chen/philadining. I'd be honored to be the man for whom the CPF index was invented. Excellent suggestiosn, jm chen. This isn't a story problem at all, as I will be in Philly for a number of weekdays and weekend days. Now, it becomes a mind-bender puzzle - how to fit them all in perfectly. I'm sure it will work, one way or another.
  23. I know, I know. You all probably can't wait for my trip to happen so that I'll shut up with my questions: 1. Plans have changed slightly for Saturday night. We're now a party of three friends who want to catch up. Although Tinto did sound great (especially its proximity to Capogiro), Amada's menu looks more interesting (the difference in the cheese selection was especially noteworthy; I'm a cheesehead). So, for a Saturday night, will Amada be too loud/busy for three long-lost friends to catch up on conversation? I need to look at a map, but I'm pretty sure Amada isn't going to be *that* far from *a* Capogiro. 2. Osteria Vetri/Amada: is lunch a good consolation prize, if dinner at either isn't feasible? I mean, I see that the much-touted Lombardo pizza is offered at lunch. I'm also assuming Amada doesn't have a seperate (watered-down) lunch menu. 3. Looking at Vetri's "Degustazione" menus online: does one get all of the courses listed (I think there's something in the order of 12-15 per menu)? Or, does one choose from the different sections (in which case, I think the menu ceases to be a "chef's tasting menu" in the strictest sense of the phrase)? 4. A quick pulse vote: Matyson or Zahav (tasting menu)? Thanks for all of your patience and help.
  24. Yeah, I don't know what to say to that.
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