Bonita de Voogd

I am in France at least three times a year, and these are the cheeses I always try to get hold of: Cantal (Fourme de Cantal, AOC) - Auvergne Gruyère du Comté (AOC) - Jura Laguiole (AOC) - Auvergne, Languedoc-Rousillon Epoisses de Bourgogne (AOC) - Bourgogne, Champagne-Ardenne Beaufort (AOC) - especially the 'd'Alpage'-variety - Rhône-Alpes Don't worry: no soft white rinds and nothing blue in it ..

We stayed in Girona from April 9th til April 12th. Breathtaking! We had lunch at El Celler de Can Roca, Taialà-Girona on the day of arrival, and were lucky to fall into the 25th Setmana Gastronòmica Gironina. Fortunately the Roca brothers participated and served a Menu Setmana Gastronòmica, which was absolutely amazing, especially in combination with the wines. We started with a set of delicious 'amuses' (i.e. cod crisps, black olive crisps, tiny crisp pestorolls, filled with a mousse of Parmiggiano) and tasty bread. Then came the plates: nougat of foie gras; soup of Comté with onion; scallops with fennel and salicornia; prawns with the vapour of cardamom and lemon; smoked cuttlefish with lemon preserve (served spectacularly with smoke caught within a glass bell!); egg yolk with sea urchins and a juice of black sausage and finally rack of lamb, lamb trothers cannelloni and peas. The deserts were brilliant, thanks to Jordi Roca: a sort of Irish Coffee, but totally different and made with PX instead of whisky and finally a Mandarina Napoleón. It's amazing that sommelier Josep managed tot serve 10(!) different wines to these dishes. For instance the soup was accompanied by a Jean Macle 1996 Château Chalon, Côtes du Jura (a very rare and expensive white wine that tastes a bit like sherry), whereas the egg was served with a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, V.V. Tardieu Laurent 2001, and the lamb with a Cascina Francia 98 Barolo! It takes guts to do so, and the combinations were surprisingly adequate. Price of this fabulous menu, including wines: 140 euro. It was worth every single cent! Table water (Vichy de Catalunya) and coffee were on the house, which we thought was a very sympathetic gesture. Our waiter called Paco showed an outstanding performance. Very friendly, very professional with a lot of know-how and obviously proud of what he was serving. We enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and it was clear to see that all the other guests were having a good time as well. The next day we had lunch at El Racó de Can Fabes. Tell you about that later on. --B

hmm .. it's always good to realize that you should rely on your own common sense ànd senses, even when you're wining and dining in star lit restaurants .. stiff sommelier: thanx for the warning! .. --B

There's some healthy criticism in your comment .. My expectations of both Can Roca and Can Fabes are high, but it's not necessary to worship the ground Santemaria and the brothers Roca tread on .. I will keep you posted! --B

I have already jotted down your suggestions in my little black book! Very inspiring! And of course I will share my final choices with you. Last year one of my editors-in-chief visited Berasategui (San Sebastian), and in Catalunya Adrià, Santemaria and the brothers Roca. Culinary heaven, he told me. He came back very much impressed by their professionalism and their kind personalities. Said they were all awesome. Santi has the most beautiful kitchen he had ever seen (a 'passe' where ten chefs can work at a time, unbelievable) .. --B

I am flying to Girona on Saturday April 9 to have lunch at El Celler de Can Roca. The next day I am having lunch at El Raco de Can Fabes. What's 'extra special, not to miss'? I would love to read about your experiences, and could use some help to make the right choices from the menu (including suggestions on wine!) Thanx in advance ..

Hi, Just in case your are still looking for a hotel in the vicinity of Girona: have a look at www.castelldemporda.com The owners serve excellent meals as well. The chef is called Joachim Muller (former chef of Le Garage, a renowned and trendy restaurant in Amsterdam). El Celler de Can Roca: did you know mama Roca runs a restaurant next door? She serves local dishes at lunchtime. Price for a decent meal: 7,50 euro! She still feeds her sons Joan, Josep and Jordi every evening after closing time! Cheers!

Hi Koen, Odds are even that you have already been to Gerona. I made a reservation for lunch at El Celler de Can Roca on the 9th of April. I'm told the youngest of the Roca brothers is supposed to be the best patissier in the whole of Spain. Chef Joan was trained in elBulli. Heard his steamed langoustines with lemon zest are superb. Hotel: Castell d'Empordà in La Bisbal near Gerona. It's a medieval castle turned into a hotel/restaurant. Seven course menu for 55 euro! Owner is a dutch guy who made a fortune with 'Beter Bed' (sold the company and bought this castle instead). Chef Joachim used to work for Braakhekke. Wonderful location. Check their website for further information. Greetings from Amsterdam, Bonita