I've been in the area a few times and have occasionally stayed in Lezignan-Corbieres. I've temporarily forgotten the name of the hotel, but it was fairly basic with a very traditional, rustic restaurant - open fires, grilled meat etc. It's a small town, but central for wine regions to the north, south and west. If you want to stay somewhere bigger, then Narbonne is nice. Another time I stayed on the coast in Bouzigues, at La Cote Bleue. A wonderful location, but that was a working visit so I can't remember much about the hotel. Good for visiting the coast. Places to go? I agree with John that it's a great place for just wandering around but I'd head for Sete, Minerve, the valleys heading west from Perpignan up towards Limoux (Cathar castles and fantastic scenery), Carcassonne (touristy), Toulouse (if not too far). It's one of my favourite wine regions, but I don't know of any wine routes. However, there is a big co-op in Limoux (Sieur d'Arques) that is well worth a visit, as well as Mont Tauch in Fitou. Try individual properties in Minervois like Chateau Maris.