Jack Tyler

I know Tito very well ... it is gratifying that you also use "locally grown vodka". Jack Tyler

Monica: Certainly, I understand the wonders and benefits of seasonal, locally-grown produce.... and, first of all, I love t'afia, as much as I have your other restaurants. However, my real interest is in your locally produced (?) seasonal wines that you serve at t'afia. How and where are they produced? By whom? How long does it take for production? In case you don't have much time to dine at other restaurants, which I assume is the case, out of 12,000, or so, restaurants in the Greater Houston area, possibly one of them does that.. and it belongs to you Thanks. Jack Tyler www.HoustonRestaurantBusiness.com

When gentlemen wore hats and overcoats, it was because they looked at themselves as gentlemen. In the 50's, they took them off in a restaurant. I grew up being taught that a gentleman never sat if there was a lady standing and to always take my hat off indoors. Seems pretty simple to me... but I'm 61 years old. Jack Tyler

Scott... several questions for you, please. Having eaten in your restaurant, I note that your style is not that close to that of Wolfgang Puck, who you worked for... and that's good... each chef should have his/her own style. To illustrate the point, a friend of mine commented that your cooking was the closest thing in Houston to Alice Water's cooking, rather than comparing you with Puck. Carl Walker, at Brennan's Houston used to work for Emeril as his sous chef at Commander's Palace in NOLA. Carl's style is, in my opinion, a little more refined and regimented that of his mentor, Emeril. What did you take from Wolfgang Puck's operation that you benefit from at Aries and where do you feel you are very different? And.... lastly, how's the bakery doing? I was at your "grand opening" party in your bakery off of Washington Avenue and thought highly of your breads... and have also eaten it at Tony's and La Griglia. Jack Tyler

Maria Zaborek seems like she was like many northerers who moved to Houston in the late 1970's and early 1980's. Those from Detroit were most notable. They had grown up looking at us southerners as ignorant, interbred mongrels who hate minorities and eat grits to fuel our hatred. Then assembly line jobs dried in the rust belt and Detroiters moved to Houston during the oil boom expecting high paying assembly line jobs. Unable to find union assembly line jobs here, many were bitter and unable to cope with our bad food and southern accents. Acceptance of local delicacies like chicken fried steak, cream gravy, grits and collard greens is a tacit acceptance that there ARE other ways to do it, in addition to the way we did it "back home". As far as "still on menus" is concerned, she can look for a lot of "retro" offerings in the future, as the trend is toward reviving some of the 1950's and 1960's offerings, like lettuce wedges with Thousand Island and Green Goddess dressing. Whine and Dine in the Chronicle is many things. It's a way that anyone can be a food critic... and that's good. It's also a PR guy's dream, as they can get someone to write in a positive remark about their client.... and they do it all the time. Jack Tyler (who loves CFS and cream gravy and fried okra and black eyed peas and collards)

Perhaps it's naive of me to be offended or surprised by frivolous lawsuits, but I strongly believe that frivolous lawsuits are more than just frivolous. They are wrong. They represent an abuse of democratic processes, misappropriation of taxpayers' money and a rarefied form of vandalism. In situations like this, I worry that the media can become part of the problem. For example, do you think that in a million years Romano would have filed this absurd lawsuit -- which, presumably, somebody had to pay good money to defend (in addition to the share of the burden of maintaining the civil justice system, which is borne by taxpayers) -- if he didn't know he could rely on local media to write lots of stories about it? This (above) post was attributed to me... however, I didn't write it. Jack

Perhaps it's naive of me to be offended or surprised by frivolous lawsuits, but I strongly believe that frivolous lawsuits are more than just frivolous. They are wrong. They represent an abuse of democratic processes, misappropriation of taxpayers' money and a rarefied form of vandalism. In situations like this, I worry that the media can become part of the problem. For example, do you think that in a million years Romano would have filed this absurd lawsuit -- which, presumably, somebody had to pay good money to defend (in addition to the share of the burden of maintaining the civil justice system, which is borne by taxpayers) -- if he didn't know he could rely on local media to write lots of stories about it? I'm far more concerned about magazines and newspapers carrying restaurant advertisements than I am about a critic getting a comped meal. Critics of many kinds get comps: book reviewers get their books from publishers for free, performing arts critics generally get their tickets free, sports columnists sit in the press box. On the news side, reporters ride the campaign bus and fly on Air Force One. To me, good journalism isn't about not taking comps; it's about not letting those comps create conflicts of interest or exert undue influence over your coverage. What I find in discussions of comps for restaurant reviewers is that many who oppose those comps happen to work at well-funded publications that can afford to spend the money. In that situation, the need to pay tens of thousands of dollars a year for a critic to visit restaurants acts as an anticompetitive measure -- it means only heavily financed journals can play in that arena. But when I look at actual results, like Mariani's restaurant reviews, I think he provides more valuable information than, say, the critic for the New York Times. Mariani publishes a free online newsletter. How is he supposed to pay for these meals? I'd much rather have him getting comped and writing about those meals than I would want to have a situation where only a few wealthy publishers control the world of restaurant reviewing. Yet, while they protest comps, those same publishers invariably carry restaurant advertisements. There they are in the New York Times, right next to the restaurant reviews. And there they are, it so happens, in D Magazine. Do you believe that carrying restaurant advertisements is morally superior to accepting comps? ← You are right on there. There are many examples of ad-driven publications going lighter on their advertisers. I think I mentioned Tony's in Houston before. His new restaurant has been opened for a couple of months now (after moving to a new location after being open for nearly 40 years). He doesn't advertise in the Chronicle (or, anywhere, I guess). The Chronicle has removed him from its dining guide completely, yet can jump in to review a new Landry's restaurant almost immediately. Landry's is a big advertiser... Tony's is probably Houston's oldest upscale restaurant... but doesn't advertise. As far as the The Houston Press is concerned, it is totally ad driven, but I don't believe Robb has any constraints on who and how he can review (at least it isn't obvious). My favorite Robb Walsh review was on a restaurant (middle eastern, I believe) where the owner/manager didn't recognize him. Robb, evidently, had an attractive date that evening. The manager decided to discreetly hit on her and sent a waitress into the ladies' room with his card and a note. In spite of the fact that Robb had some Ok things to say about the food, which was admirable of him, the attempted seduction of a guest's date was the first half of the review. Yuk, yuk. Jack

Alice Waters is in a class of her own and is a trend setter, herself.... she doesn't need to "Napoleonize" her offerings for WOW factor..... however, as far as Dallas is concerned, if you are correct about the trend toward smaller chef/owner restaurants, it will change my perception about Dallas as a dining town. An example of that trend in Houston is Monica Pope's new restaurant, T'afia, where she only serves locally-grown vegetables and, even, locally-produced "seasonal" wines. As far as presentation is concerned, just like any other commodity, food has always been subject to trends both in ingredients and presentation... and always will be. That doesn't bother me... to some degree, I think it keeps it exciting. I WAS, however, eating Rack of Lamb stacked on top of mashed potatoes years ago at the Brownstone in Houston. I agree with you about piling anything on top of something you have to scrape off in order to taste the entree'. Jack

Carrabba's, Grotto, La Griglia and quite a few like that in Houston use the busy, somewhat loud, atmosphere as a draw. Frequently, conversations with adjacent tables are part of the action there, and I enjoy it. I doubt, though, that I would go to one of those for a business dinner, or, a romantic evening out with my wife. Jack

And, Nancy, I must take exception and say that a free meal doesn't a liar make. A writer is, either, honest... or a liar. Writers (that I know) make enough money where a $150.00 meal isn't quite enough money to bribe them. I realize that many publications feel that they guarantee fair critiques by paying for the meal and having the critic sneak in for an experience... but, the fact is that most critics are known in Houston... certainly, Robb Walsh and Alison Cook are both known in most restaurants here in Houston. If they are known, they get special service whether the meal is paid for, or not. You are not quite unknown in Dallas, either... a beautiful lady is always remembered and noticed ;-) . Writing honestly about a dining experience that is not likely to be enjoyed by the average person in a restaurant is no more helpful to a potential diner than what you are railing against, in my opinion. And, I must point out that when John enjoyed a comp meal in a restaurant with me, it was because he was a guest of MINE.... and I'm not a PR person for restaurants... I just took him out to dinner at a favorite restaurant of ours (Anthony's) which is no longer open.... so I wouldn't say that my post confirms that John "accepts comp meals". We all accept comp meals when someone takes us out to dinner. I am, however, enjoying this forum and am glad to be chatting with you. I believe that you have a high level of ethics, but would differ with you if you believe that those who do it differently lack ethics, or are making us ALL look bad. Jack

Robb: Having known John Mariani for years (I frequently dine with him when he's in Houston)... I've been to dinners that we paid for AND those where they were comp... however, he is always honest, both in the review AND when the restaurateur drops by the table to check on him. I have been fortunate enough to see the same comments appear, both at the table... and in the review. He has actually gotten to the point where his opinion is so respected and widely-spread that he writes what he damn-well thinks. I've heard him express "tough love" to Tony Vallone and Tony was actually pleased to hear his opinion... that being said, he has expressed to me that he feels that Tony's is still one of the best restaurants in the nation..... as opposed to the Chron's critic, Alison Cook, who has rated Tony's 2-stars (along with taquerias) for years. Of course, Alison tries to be anonymous, but is recognized most of the time. I don't believe that comp meals preclude an honest review, or that anonymous ones guarantee honesty. A lot of people know what you look like and I think you are pretty damned honest in your reviews. I dissagree with your reviews frequently, but never doubt that you were trying to be open-minded (except in restaurants that cater to us "San Fillipy setters" ;-)). Jack Tyler Publisher Houston Restaurant Business magazine

I don't know if I even want to go there. I try everything, though. Also, speaking of the jarred dark roux, as I mentioned before... scooping some out into a frying pan makes an extremely good base to start a brown gravy with some real character when pot roast drippings are added to it.

IF there are only two ingredients in the store bought roux, I'd be inclined to agree with you. Flour and oil are just that (assuming the manufacturer doesn't cheat on the type of oil ). It's the preservatives, etc., that are usually put into commercial stuff that put me off. I've never tried store bought roux, and I'm not even sure it's available here in Virginia, so can't say. Are there any "extra" ingredients in the jarred roux? And do they mention what kind of oil they use? ← I use Kary's Cajun Roux, made in Ville Platte, LA. The two ingredients, in order, are Flour and Vegetable Oil (there IS an "anti-oxidant" added and it is the only bogey ingredient). I know, also, that there are as many different types of vegetable oils as there are cooks..... so, I'm not too concerned about that, because I like a very dark roux, and I have never noticed a difference in the taste of the roux from oil to oil, although I would imagine a REAL difference from peanut or sesame oil.... however, I'm adventurous... not demented.

I work for Hospice. If I can be of any help to you, let me know. ...Just kidding! That was humor! ← If you live in Florida and work for Hospice, I doubt that you have much time to give me a hand! ;-)

The rules... (and I only posted part of several) are many pages long and only 5-6 relate to ingredients. Most are about exhibiting, judging, submitting samples, cleanliness, killing judges, etc. And they relate to anyone competing in a cookoff sanctioned by the Chili Appreciation Society, International... one of two different worldwide associations.... each claiming to be the ultimate judge of what is and isn't chili.

To cover the high points, in a competition: 1. No fillers of any kind are allowed. That means beans, rice, hominy, etc. 2. No commercial mixes such as Wick Fowler's, etc. Commercial "Chili Powders ARE allowed. 3. In some cases, a contestant is asked to taste his/her own chili in front of the judges. This one is incredible... but it's like the royal taster, protecting the King. 4. Because we're in Texas, there is absolutely no discharging of firearms allowed. Meat MUST be shot offsite. 5. It is judged on aroma, red color, consistency, taste and aftertaste. 6. Crackers, cheese, celery and grapes are to be supplied to the judges to eat between cups... but don't dare put them in your chili (you can... but don't ecpect to win). The rules of ingredients have changed radically in the Championship there in Terlingua... people cook snake, possum, TOMATOES, venison, etc... but no beans, dammit.

Here goes my death. I grew up (if I ever did) on the Texas Gulf Coast. I would crab all day (in the early 50's) and I'd bring home a wash tub full. Mom would run over to kemah or Seabrook and grab some fresh shrimp and we'd whip up some gumbo. Although she made a roux, she'd also use okra and I loved it. I also liked to sprinkle a small amount of file' on top.... not for thickening, but the taste. I've made gumbo for nearly 50 years, now. A few years ago, I decided to try a jar of prepared roux..... and I couldn't tell the difference. Not at all. It's merely flour and oil... exactly what I use to make my own roux. An older friend of mine, who's been making gumbo for 60-65 years is ashamed of me. I'm proud of me. I can run over to Smith Point and bring back some VERY fresh oysters and whip up some tasty oyster gumbo and be eating it while he's stirring roux. What's the difference? There are only two ingredients we're dealing with here, folks.

The restaurant is wonderful.... and the "seasonal wines" are interesting. Don't know how far I'll go with that, though... I'm a very dry stodgy wine kind of guy. The Midtown Farmer's Market you're referring to, however, is only slightly more ambitious than the one on Richmond Avenue but visually more appealing. The booth from Kraftsman Bakery is a plus there, though. That one is owned by Aries' Scott Tycer (formerly with Wolfgang Puck's in L.A.) and his wife, Annika (formerly with Vallone {Tony's} restaurant group). The problem with the market is that it and the one on Richmond Avenue are both open from 8:00 to 12:00 on Saturday. I guess they are close enough to hit them both on the same morning. I like the flaky "ugly" pastries sold on Richmond by Janice Schindeler, former Food Editor for the Houston Chronicle. I agree that having a different one open every day would be good... but at least having one open on Saturday and the other open on Sunday would be an improvement.

Houston's "Farmers Market" on Airline Drive is a prime example ot that problem. It sits in a small "produce Row" of produce distributors, which supply Houstons supermarkets and restaurants. In the middle of all of this is a large produce-only retail market... and behind that are a couple of dozen stalls where individuals sell small quantities of fresh produce from the backs of their pickup trucks. However, the "farmers", mostly Mexican-American, buy case loads of various produce types right there on the property from the owner of the market and then break it up into buckets. Actually, closer to a true Farmer's Market is the very small operation that Urban Harvest runs in the parking lot of a small office building on Richmond Avenue. It is required that the produce be 100% grown in the Houston area and cannot be bought from a large distributor. Most of it is organic and the prices aren't too bad. Organic brown eggs are $3.00 to $3.50 per dozen, however... while a huge bunch of fresh basil a foot long and 2 inches thick sells for $1.00. The problem with the place is that it seldom has more than a dozen vendors and it's only open from around 8:00 to noon, or so, on Saturdays.

This stuff may be tasty. Skyline chili is tasty, as are the other 3-way and 4-way chilis from Ohio, but "real Texas chili"? Chocolate, as mentioned (admittedly not sweet) , sounds like either Ohio chili or a concoction attempting to give a mole' flavor to a Texas dish. As one who lived in Ohio for a couple of years, I got used to people throwing chocolate and cinnamon in "chili" (and, yes, B--ns). I now prefer chili's made with the CASI rules of competition. However, it's ALL great tasting... but "real Texas chili"?

I agree with the River Road Recipes offering. My copy is from the 1950's and is barely staying together. It probably leans more to the Creole than the Cajun (which in my main area of interest), but it's way up there on my favorites. For some reason or other, the Junior League cookbooks are, by far, the best collections for Louisiana ethnic cooking. New Orleans Creole Recipes (1932) by Mary Moore Bremer is excellent.... my copy is a rather recent printing, the sixteenth printing in 1952; and To a Kings Taste, published by the National Society of the Colonial Dames of America In the State of Lousiana in 1952 is excellent. I like the older books as they haven't been "Emerilized" as much from the standpoint of neuveaux American cooking and presentation.... not that I don't enjoy a lot of his concoctions.

If you're going to make REAL Texas chili, you can start by not grabbing the ground beef... but, I usually make some Texas corn bread to go with mine. To make it right, it costs as much as the chili ingredients to make it and it weighs more.