← Take the Green or Orange line to North Station. Depending on the time of day, getting off at Haymarket -- the stop before -- is worth it to see the market there, as well. I lived in the North End for six months about 20 years ago. No one had $30K gelato machines then, nor were there oyster bars with Wellfleeets. There's a fine line between real ethnic and generic upscale, I'm not sure if I'm pleased or not with the changes -- not that one can artificially hold onto the past. The immortal "Death and Life of Great American Cities" opens with a description of the North End which, in the 60s should have been -- by any demographic measure -- a slummy hellhole. But there was an incredible community behind the restaurants and import shops on the commercial streets; families and neighbors that knew one another, celebrated Saint's Days and together and sent their kids to St. Anthony's together,and kept an eye on everything that moved. I remember my corner grocer, Pepe (in the 80s) , lecturing me on the fact that "the problems you see today" stemmed from the decline of the corner grocer: they guy who knew everything and everybody on the street, whether your kids were skipping school or a suspicious character was passing by. That's what made the neighborhood special. I hope that the Wellfleet vendor and gelato guy are becoming part of that community, otherwise, they're choking it off and turning the neighborhood into yet another theme park. Last time I was there, though, I made it to Pizzaria Regina (still a dive, still great) and one of the little no-credit-card joints on Hanover Street. And some of the old butcher shops that helped make the North End a spectacular place to live -- my roommates and I were determined to find the best sausage in the North End, not sure if we did, but it was a blast trying to find out -- were still going. Even my old employer, the guys who regularly denounced the health inspector as "evil" and had the tomato sauce that cooked for weeks at a time, were still open. There is hope. ← We have to do a segment on "Culinary Detective" about clam chowder in Boston. Most likely, we will also go through the steps of how it is made by a particular chef/restaurant. Since there are numerous places that serve clam chowder in Boston, does anybody have a particularly memorable or favorite place to recommend?