fambrough

Great questions, Peter! There was no discussion of including offal in the dessert. I believe that Mathias was largely responsible for the menu (except dessert, that was Della), although I could be mistaken. He was going over his hand written notes about each plate very carefully. I remember on funny thing. Trotter was watching us get ready to plate the celery root dessert course and was admonishing Della, "Cut it [the cake] the size *you* think it should be...then cut it in half!" Couldn't tell you where the rabbit kidneys were from. I can tell you they were one of my favorite things, second only to the monkfish liver. Sweetbreads are always good IMHO, but these were nothing mind-blowing. The other item/ingredient that I have become totally enamoured with after this luncheon: grains of paradise, a fantastic substitute for black pepper with two distinct dimensions. I didn't get a shot of the boys eating, but I do have one of the line-up with Trotter and Ferran. I'm in the front row on Trotter's left (to the right of him in the photograph).

I thought I would share some pictures from a luncheon hosted at the Culinary Vegetable Institute at the Chef's Garden in Huron, Ohio. This luncheon took place a while ago, Thursday, March 2nd, 2006. Please forgive the fact that my post is not the most timely. I was extremely lucky to have been invited by Lee Jones to assist in the preparation of this food. Trotter flew out three of his culinary team including Mathias and Della. We worked from very early morning into the afternoon when Trotter arrived with his guests Isabella and Ferran Adria. The menu was themed to have each course feature a different method of preparation and make use of offal (exclusive of dessert courses). POACHED: Celery, Granny Smith Apple, Wasabi and Monkfish liver SOUS VIDE: French Breakfast Radishes, Horseradish, Grains of Paradise and Veal Heart JUICED: Dragon Carrots, Cilantro, Tagarashi and Crispy Poularde Skin DEHYDRATED: Kohlrabi, Anise Seed, Cider Vinegar and Lamb's Tongue SAUTEED: Cauliflower, Cumin, Saffron-Sherry Vinaigrette and Veal Sweetbreads GRILLED: Turnips, Red Wine Reduction and Rabbit Kidneys STEAMED: Garlic, Garlic Shoots, Bitter Chocolate and Duck Liver ROASTED: Bull's Blood Beets, Candy-Striped Beets, Veal Reduction and Veal Brains BRAISED: Fingerling Potatoes, Shallots, Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Tripe FROZEN: Fennel Bulb with Pollen BAKED: Celery Root and Celery Root Cream FRIED: Okinawa Sweet Potatoes with Milk Chocolate I absolutely love the incorporation of traditionally savory items into desserts. Della was terrific. I spent at least about a third of my day assisting her. The other third I assisted one of Trotters staff who is no longer at the restaurant; the final third, plating and a la minute cooking. Mathias directed plating and made rounds. Fire away with questions or comments. I will try to remember as much as I can. Cheers.

Back in Cleveland now and the restaurant didn't burn down while I was away! Now for the meager report. I have, alas, no really good or bad reports from Normandy. I should change the title of the thread to reflect my Paris dining. I was so frustrated by the lack of kitchen tools (knew this ahead of time) and "heavy equipment" in the apartment that it really put a damper on my cooking. For example, the oven would trip the circut breaker at anything over 100 degrees C. This set back a cuisse de poulet considerably as I had to adjust the cooking method. I did discover the pleasures of some inexpensive Cotes de Vivarais and Cotes de Bourg while dining chez moi. Of dining out: I have comments on two restaurants. We ate with friends at Le Belier D'Argent where we have dined before. We did not choose this restaurant for ourselves. We were, rather, being courteous to our enthusiastic companions who love this place. It's a bit of old and new with some sort of off-the-wall attempts at cuisine moderne. These, while mildly imaginative, come off fine, albeit a tad clumsy. We spoke with the owners who went on about being inventive and experimenting with new things, keeping fresh. I had to smother my non-plussed reaction when we were told with proud smiles that they changed the menu two times a year. Yikes. My confit (magret) with frites was unremarkable. Why for goodness sake don't some chefs use herbs in the curing part of the procedure? Is it some purist esthete that relegates these chefs into an avoidable posture of one-dimensional cuisine? My friend's tete de veau gribiche was well prepared, but the gribiche really need a kick of acidity. No more criticism. The food was good, not bad at all--just nothing special. I will eat there again (with my same friends, no doubt), but not make special plans of my own. The best meal was lunch at Carte Blanche. And, you know what, sorry, but I'm running out of time this morning. This would be better left to another day when I have more time. In fact, I'll just start a new thread so it doesn't get hidden here. Cheers. Back on Tuesday with the finish. Ben

Update, So far the meals in restaurants have been completely un-noteworthy. We've dined mostly in Caen and once in Bayeux. I am, however, very taken by Pommeau. Bought a bottle to bring back to the states, and some Calvados, of course. The best food of the trip has been the cheapest: simple omlettes and buckwheat crepes in creperies and the food we are being served here at the abbey. Lunch today, for example, was some small, baked headless, but otherwise intact, mackerel, stuffed with lemon, shallots and herbs: nice crispy skin, well seasoned and succulent inside. Also some baked, stuffed red pepper halves with basil. Simple and delicious. There is no shortage of good cheese and bread here. Alas, I returned the rental car today--no more wandering around Pays D'Auge. We're off to "our" apartment in St. Germain-En-Laye tomorrow. At last I'll have a kitchen. And maybe, finally, some restaurant experience worth reporting. I've got of possibilities in mind. No more easy internet access for me, but possible updates from an internet cafe. On va voir. Cheers, Ben

I am in Caen now. My wife and I are staying in an old Abby, L'Abbaye D'Ardenne. She is researching the works of Michel Foucault in the IMEC archives housed here. Mostly we have taken our meals here: good, simple regional cuisine prepared/served family style with ample wine and local cheeses. Our one meal in Caen was decent, but unremarkable at Le Bistro de Vaugueaux. It was moderately priced and tasty, but not much else. We will be out and about for the weekend: up to the beaches at the very least. More later. Cheers, Ben

My flight plans were muddled. Would have missed the connection in Newark. Alors. Apparently, the afternoon flight out of Cleveland has problems daily. Thanks, Continental. Very dissappointing, as well as muddling things on the arrival end. We're leaving a day late and going through Houston. I guess we've been very lucky in the past not to have experienced any trouble with international flights. C'est la vie. Anyway, the bright side is getting to read responses from John Talbott and Corrina Dunne. Thank you both. I'll post back here in June about any noteworthy culinary delights. A bit off topic: another bright side to this (I think) is the opportunity to repack. I'm trying the Rick Steves' pack light "technique" for the first time. I am guilty of overpacking for long trips. Cheers to all! Ben

Thank you so much. I am glad someone responded! Yes, the market in St Germain-En-Laye is great (and right outside our window--it's moved location due to temporary construction to a square (place de la victoire)). We will be cooking up a storm most evenings there. Cheers, Ben Please, more suggestions welcome.

This is a little a la minute I know, but please offer your suggestions. My wife and I will be staying in Caen for one week. We will have a rental car. She is vegetarian. Of course, her vegetarianism will not circumscribe our restaurant choices: I am a chef in Cleveland, Ohio; I love food and eat everything. We are looking for mostly quality in midrange-low cost food. One night or two we might open the purses a bit for something a bit above par. After a week in Normandy, we'll be staying in an apartment in St Germain-En-Laye (where we have stayed before. We'll have a kitchen and do most of our own cooking. However, Paris and East Suburb recommendations are appreciated as well. In previous visits we dined at Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Aux Lyonnaise and Le Petit Margerit (sp?). Thanks in advance for your speedy replies. Ben Fambrough, Cleveland, OH

Interesting. So even the great Pepin says to expect renegade slices not to puff! I don't feel so bad now. We have had our best sucess with going straight from one oil to the other, but still, moderate success with a period of cooling in between. The help and I sure enjoyed some of the flat ones...Alas, they just ain't the same. Cheers, Ben

Thanks for the info so far. Please keep it coming. Carswell, I'm hitting in about the same range as yourself. B

Can anyone direct me to a foolproof, or detailed procedure for the execution of pommes souffle? I have been experimenting with width cut, oil temperatures, time between frying low temp and high temp, cooling between frying. I have not found a method yet that gets me the perfect, puffed pommes souffle every time. Thanks in advance for any help or direction. Ben

Sorry to have let the thread go so long without reply. I had some "distracting" medical news--everything is ok now. Then I took off a couple days to decompress and promptly got sick. Yuck. Anyway, Michael, Angel moved on from the hotel some time ago. He had moved into banquets when I came on the scene. Reg is another story. Talk about being in one spot for way too long for his own good. I promoted him to supervisor (after 11 years of being a line cook!?!?). Unfortunately, a leadship role in that kitchen did not suit him. Fortunately, he moved on to a sous chef position at a local country club. He is married with a kid of his own (in addition to daughter his wife already had) and he seems very happy. He calls from time to time. Yes, I read Creas comments. He dines with us very regularly at lunch so I was keen for his opinions. I am glad he wrote what he did. It sure fired up some reaction that more restaurants should pay attention to. Nancy, let me know when you are coming. I would love to say hi. I doubt I will join you on the other forum. Sorry. Another activity is the last thing I need. :) But thanks. I've got a menu ending on Sunday and some revisions in place for Monday. Nothing huge, but my hands will be full for a little while. Still training new staff, too--that's always one of the most demanding aspects of the job. I'll report back on how everything is going in another thread. Thanks, Ben Hey Cleveland Diners-try Three Birds if you haven't already. I think John Kolar's got a real nice thing going on there.

sweintraub, Thank you for your comments. I sincerely think/hope your expercience an anomoly. And, of course, I would ask that you give us a try again. I agree that service trumps food. I will go back to a restaurant even when the food was not exactly right provided the service has made me feel welcome, comfortabe, informed and wanted. I am less likely to return even if the food is perfect when I have been treated badly. Ah, service staffs and the importance of training. Unfortaunately in the hotel structure the wait staff does not fall under my purview. I'm not sure there's a single one of them that I would hire for my own staff! Which is not at all to say I think they do a poor job. Quite the contrary. I am horribly late leaving the house this morning. Allow me to wrap up quickly by letting you know that I will share your comments with the restaurant manager. Also, please call and identify yourself to me if you are inclined to give us another try. I promise to take care of you. Cheers and more later, Ben

I would be delighted to give recommendations. I hope we can have more discussion here about dining in Cleveland. I have some questions of my own looking for a diners perspective. Cheers, Ben PS I am happy to receive email if anyone wants/needs to take their queries off board.

Thanks for the welcome! Dinner was very nice. We chatted it up quite a bit with Matt (recently promoted to executive chef, previous stints include Chez Francois and the Ritz). Paul Manilo is an affinure, yes. In fact the cheeses at the end of the meal was one of the highlights. I don't think they/he ages anything for very long. I inferred from Matt that the turnover of their stock is high. We were treated very well. Matt is humble...I like that in a chef. Allow me for now to consciously avoid being a food critic. I'll criticize my own work. I will tell you that I was completely relaxed and comfortable. That's not to be understated. Our service was conscientious and timely and the food was good! By the way, if anyone here happens to be attending the Harvest for Hunger benefit at the Galleria, Market Under Glass (Thursday, April 7th), please stop and say hello. I will be serving Sea Bass with butternut squash, lingonberry vinaigrette and vanilla bean oil. Thanks again for the warm welcome. Ben