tony h

Cabrales - you're not tuning into a lush by any chance are you?

I big on adding leeks & celeriac to the basic mire poix. Also - a few star anise adds a nice depth (complementing the dill mentioned earlier). If roasting the bones - add a little v small amount tomato paste & roast that at the same time. Every 5 min or so I'll put the bones into a collander to removbe excess fat - then back into the roasting pan (on top of the stove). Garlic is also important - a whole bulb cut through its equator. After a couple of hours of very gentle simmering - strain. If the mood takes me - lots of fresh herbs mixed with egg whites - add and gently simmer for about 20-30 min. Cut a whole in the raft & carefully remove the perfecly clear stock. I'll then boil to reduce to taste required. Resulting amber colour is quite impressive.

Guy Savoy Guy Savoy, 18 Rue Troyon, is located slightly to the north of Arc de Triomphe. The street itself is not very inviting - at one end a McDonalds and after dark although it didn’t feel unsafe I’d hate to hang around. GS was recognised by the 2 attendants waiting to open the understated but imposing wooden doors beyond which some of France’s greatest treasures hid. There to meet us himself was Guy Savoy – not opening the doors of course, he has henchman for that. He had the humbled look of someone who had invited you into your home crossed with a look, a warm smug glow, that said I got my 3rd star. Oh what wonders lay beyond. The restaurant is divided into 3 section with a 6-10 tables in each section. The décor was modern international, pleasant, angular and comfortable. We arrived at 8.30. First up – pre-pre-starters: succulent discs of foie gras beautifully salty and perfumed. There were seconds of these. Second – pre-starters: three little dishes: one of carrot & pernod soup (although “soup” seems too basic a word); mushrooms sautéed & skewered with a rosemary twig & a courgette/zucchini cannelloni stuffed with mushrooms & balsamic. The balsamic looked 50 years old. Fabulous. The menu arrived & it took quite some time to assimilate. There were 2 tasting menus for 230 and 188 euros. I could easily have eaten both but we settled on, we thought anyway, the simple a la carte. Of waiter told that if we didn’t want the tasting menu we could make one up from what was available – split the starters – we’ll give you half-portions. (Half-portions my arse – but more later.) The menu was chosen. First half starters (approx 50 euros each full price): Petits medaillons de foie gras de canard au sel gris et gelee de canard (preparation crue) (loads of little foie gras on a duck aspic with celeriac puree) Supreme de volaille de bresse, fioe gras et celery en vinaigrette aux truffes (Chicken & foie gras terrine with truffle vinarette and celery cream sauce.) Both outstanding. First nice touch: they offered more sauce to go with the terrine when my partner had finished it. Second half starter: we both chose this as it seemed a signature dish (75 euros full price) Soupe d’artichaut a la truffe noir, brioche feulletee aux champignons et truffes (artichoke & truffle soup with mushroom & truffle brioche) 75 euros for a plate of soup (37.5 in this case) sounds like a lot – but it was stunning. A bemused, satisfied look came over each of our faces at the first mouthful. The depth of flavour was not over powering but lingered beautifully & tantalisingly on the palate longer afterwards. The brioche was the most succulent I have ever had. Second nice touch: they asked if we wanted more. I said yes & got another half size bowl. Guy Savoy came over & commented – so you weren’t sure about the soup the first time? The starters were not half sized - of that we were sure. Course 5: main course: Angeau de lait dans tous ses etats (lamb done several ways) We both chose this – not something I usually like doing – but I’m glad we did so in this case or there would have been a severe case of jealously on one side. A lamb hock– cooked in a clear broth with turned vegetables - was presented to use & prepared by our table. The meat was separated skilfully from the bone & arranged in a bowl with the sumptuous stock and vegetables. My initial disappointment at the size of the portion was soon gone: this was a side dish. In front us appeared a separate plate of lamb (saddle & neck fillets) with perfect quenelle of cous-cous, vegetables (I don’t remember which) and deep deep reduction (stunning). Additionally there was a side dish of peas with morsels of roast lamb neck or cheek. This was truly wonderful. Course 6: dessert I had the terrine of grapefruit with earl grey tea sauce – very sharp but refreshing. My partner had chestnut & hazelnut creation – sponge-like base with flavoured cream with spun sugar contraptions. Possibly the least successful course – the chestnut thing wasn’t to my taste at all but the terrine was a revelation after an already heavy meal. Courses 7 & onwards: post-dessert We refused cheese (it would have sunk us) but this didn’t stop the food flowing. The post dessert part of the meal was two plates of wonderful petit fours, another course of homely ice creams (I chose the almond – breathtaking) and stewed fruit (I skipped this). This was followed but another mini-dessert of grapefruit sorbet & pepper sauce. Again – stunning. A strange, never to be repeated thing happened next: we asked them to stop bringing us food. It was like the Monty Python sketch – one more thing & we’d explode. Wine: two bottles of Chablis grand cru (96 euros each). Its not that we skimped on the wine its just that there wasn’t much we could afford. All in all, this was a fantastic evening – the service was faultless & the food outstanding. They made you feel great & the atmosphere intoxicating. One of the best (if not thee best) food experiences I’ve had. I can’t recommend it enough. Final cost: 529 euros (ouch!) plus tip – but worth every penny (until, of course, my credit card bill comes in). We left after midnight & Guy was at the door to shake our hand & say goodnight. What a star. Had lunch at Beniot next day - fantastic in a completely different way. If I get a chance I'll post some notes.

The best lunch in town - a serious contender must be Capitol at under 30 quid. I was dissapointed with the evening meal - I was expecting too much, I think. (I've gone off St John in a big way since they refused to sell me some eccles cakes - ruined the evening).

Holy shit! I'm going to Guy Savoy on Saturday. I didn't think ti was going to be that expensive. I'll let you know how I got on. gulp

North 44 open on civic holidays - so I guess they'll open on Sundays. Food's pretty good.

Raymond Blanc was interviewed in the Guardian last week. A chef of some respect & what did they talk about? Baked beans - what a waste. Ah, well, here's the link: Guardian

scouts - isn't that where you learn about vice for the first time?

oh, you little fibber.

I had a very fine lunch there at the beginning of summer. I don't recall the meal exactly but it was something like foie gras 3 ways for starter & lamb w sweetbreads for mains. Without wine it was around 20 pounds & I do remeber think it was very good. Wouldn't mind trying an evening meal - I look forward to your report.

My food partner in crime & I we went to Spoon (an Alain Ducasse restaurant) at Sanderson last Thursday night. Sanderson is part of Ian Schrager’s burgeoning hotel empire (he of Studio 54 fame) designed by Philippe Starck which seems to base its ideas on soft billowing fabric walls, thoughtful lightning and a few to-die-for sofas. For example, on arrival you are met with that old crowd pleaser: Dali’s Mae West lips sofa. The reception is located on the left & a dark & cosy bar, with suitably uncomfortable chairs, and the main bar runs most of the length of the hotel front. The music is fucking loud. Hanging out are a significant pool of London’s chic wanna be’s. Skipping past what resembles the bar crowd from Star Wars we make out way to Spoon (an Alain Ducasse restaurant) placed not very thoughtfully at the end of the bar, the bar with the fucking loud music. There is no division, wall, or anechoic chamber between the bar and Spoon (an Alain Ducasse restaurant) sitting area. Fortunately, my food partner in crime knew there was outdoor seating and so asked for a table there. Sanderson was originally an office block (I guess) which has been renovated. Built during the 60s (again, a guess) consequently it now resembles a 60s office block that has been renovated. In the centre is a courtyard where some of Spoon’s (an Alain Ducasse restaurant) tables have been placed. With the surrounding 60s renovated office block they have managed to recreate an up market staff canteen. A challenging task even for the gifted Mr Starck. At the other end if the up market staff canteen is the outside standing area for the bar with the fucking loud music. The maitre’d was sweet enough to arrange for the music sound to be lowered so I could hear my food partner in crime without straining too many vocal chords but a substantial part of the conversation did rely on lip reading and hand gestures. The menu is a do it yourself mix and match ensemble similar to Wok-Wok but with napkins and linen. The pre-starters – soft cheese with herbs and onion compote with shrimp – arrived, presented in large spoons, and were accompanied but the first good sign of the evening – exceptional bread. The wine list was delivered and it took quite some time to find a wine I could afford. My choice was rejected not by my food partner in crime but by the sommelier. Maybe its against the rules to sell wine lower that 40 pounds. His choice was pretty good – an Australian red - but there no French red’s below 50 pounds that I could see. The thoughtful lighting of the hotel didn’t extend to the up market staff canteen sitting area of Spoon (an Alain Ducasse restaurant) so it was difficult to read. The food menu, the non-brail version, was also difficult to read now that the sun had set. The starters were less mix and match than the mains giving us little opportunity to truly extend known gastronomic limits. My food partner in crime went for the vegetarian ravioli: 5 little ravioli were presented which did taste wonderful with subtle star anise undertone. This was accompanied with a puree of green herb served in a little mortar and pestle. 15 pounds. I went for old faithful – foie gras – terrine of FG with chicken breast – expertly cooked. 20 pounds. Mains were more challenging as the idea is to select a meat, fish or poultry followed by a sauce then a vegetable accompaniment. The chefs at Spoon (an Alain Ducasse restaurant), inspired in by your inspirational choices will then work on creating something I’m sure you’ve never had before. We chose the squab and veal. The vegetable side dish was raw & roast asparagus (for the squab) and vegetarian moussaka for the veal. An oversight on my part caused me to order the same sauce as my partner in crime. Also, accidentally, this turned out to be sweet and sour. The squab was, well, squabish. The veal was genuinely wonderfully and expertly cooked. The sweet and sour was a mistake – but I’ll take the blame for that little mistake. The asparagus was asparagussy and the moussaka had string vinegar undertone that didn’t sit well on the tongue. By now the sun had set even further and no clear glimpse of the food could be seen. Hovering our table’s candle above the food didn’t shed much light. The mains were in the region of 25 pounds. By now the music from the bar with the fucking loud music had gradually increased so we decided to skip dessert. I do admit that I wasn’t entirely inspired to indulge on the predominantly chocolate based desserts to which my food partner in crime is slightly allergic. The bill at Spoon (an Alain Ducasse restaurant) came to 150 pounds. The meal did have its moments – the bread & the perfectly cooked veal. Spoon (an Alain Ducasse restaurant) seems to be trying for something new - fine dining in a disco - but its not really for me. Are all Spoons (an Alain Ducasse restaurant chain) similarly loud? Ian Schrager Spoon (an Alain Ducasse Restaurant)

I ate at Le Bristol & George V last September (both 2 stars). Le Bristol was memorable, interesting & delicious. I found it v expensive (I wasn't aware that it offered a lunch menu). Service was faultless & indulgent - I was there on my own and they kept bringing me little extras from the kitchen. I'd happily go back anytime. George V was more elegant but they inisted I put on one of their jackets (3 sizes too big). The food wasn't in the same league (on that day, anyway). The waiter was a little too pushy & more or less told me what I was going to eat. It was above average but not special & I expect a little more for the price.

Fry an onion & a little garlic, add the corn (and cob to help with the flavour). I'll add veg or chicken stock depending on what's available. After about 20-30 min remove the cobs. Add lots of basil, pepper & salt before blending & pass through a very very fine seive. When serving - drizzle a little truffle oil over the top.

Italian! But I hate italian shit and double shit

They are taking bookings - phone 020 7499 7070 I'm going on the 4th (I wan't to eat there first before some tells me its shite )

Just ask - most top end places will give you a copy or run off a copy depending on how they are produced. If expensively printed they may be more reluctant but I've never had a problem.

I'm there tomorrow night (first evening visit). Looking forward to the comparison.

we've all been there

Petrus, Chez Bruce & Putney Bridge are worth a look

I've been to JBR twice recently - I'll never go back. Gavroche - a bit stuffy & expensive but worth a visit. The Square - loved it Capital - my favourite restaurant just now - food is argguably better than Ramsay @ RHR. Desserts a bit of a let down - but I'm not too bothered by puds. Tante C - not been yet.

Cabrales - how I could I survive without you? Many thanks, as always.

Thanks everyone for your advice & help. Guy Savoy has now been booked.

My only experience of top end Parisian restaurants are the 2 starred Le Bristol (loved it) and George Cinq (just ok). As for cost - I'm more than happy to sacrifice wine in favour of food. (There was some who posted a wonderful assessment of Paris 2 & 3 star restaurants 2-3 months but I've spent 3 days searching for it without luck.) Thanks so far.

I am passing through Paris in September but only have 1 night there. Which 3 star restaurant would you recommend (more importantly, which has passed its best). I suppose I'm looking for the one with the biggest wow factor. Thanks

Do you think there would be any effect of paying the "tip" in cash instead of having it added to your credit/debit card automatically?