Try La Pievina, a simple trattoria on the very pretty road between Asciano and Siena, for an experience that's like having a celebratory dinner at an Italian home. When you come in, the only decision you're asked to make is "carne, pesce o vegetariano?" Once you decide, the women in the kitchen, who drink wine as they cook and get louder as the night progresses, get to work. Over the course of the next several hours, this is what you get: 10 antipasti courses; five primi, usually pasta; and three main courses. Then they drop a selection of about six desserts on your table. And finally, they bring a variety of grappas and vin santos, which you can sample at your leisure. The courses are smallish, so don't let the big numbers intimidate you. Also, they're spaced out over the entire eventing. Also in included in the very reasonable price is wine, water and coffee. Don't expect anything fancy, because it's not. What you get, though, is a lot of fun for the money.